I wish I knew this a couple hours ago. All back together now. Description above is the best I have. If #81 and #82 are registering in the right order, then their receivers are good.

And I know the connector that is empty but there for #86's receiver. Just need to know if I can tap onto #82's transmitter wiring for #86's transmitter.

#72 shouldn't be a problem if I can tap onto #71's transmitter. Then just use the two unused connector spots for the receiver.

Coyote may know more.

I appreciate your help too !

Thank you both,
LTG : )

I just noticed my TZ was restored by Dan Goett. His bio says TZ is his favorite game to restore. Anyone else have experience with him? I’m impressed with his work so far. Sorta HEP-lite.

Agree. What matters is what registers in the switch edge test.

You can. All the transmitter wires are the same. The trace/stripe color is there just for consistency.

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Just be careful if you tap off a transmitter (GRY-XXX) wire. Each LED should have its own current limiting resistor. The value of the resistor (270 Ohm) is chosen to produce a certain amount of current through the IR LED. The current affects how bright the IR LED is. If you put two IR LEDs (in parallel) with the one resistor, it will split the current path and divide it in half. The same applies if you tap from the SW82 transmitter for the SW86 transmitter. The opto pair may still work but it's not working exactly as it was originally designed to.

He sure will!

As with Coyote's comment, it's about time someone else paid you back for all the help you provide.

Effectively what DumbAss says is correct.. the Grey/xx (and Grey) wires are just the voltage feed. However if you feed off of them, you'll be drawing more current, and those resistors - at least on the OEM boards - already get damn hot. DumbAss makes a nice one where the 5v is already regulated, so using one of his would be safer there.
But yes - for #71, you would make a jumper from the Black and Grey wires to the Transmitter/Emitter, and then just connect the Grey/xx and Orange/xx wires to the new transmitter/receiver.

That's likely why your upper right magnet is working - the emitter's just getting power from the wrong source. The large resistor on the opto board is feeding the wrong opto. Doesn't hurt anything here - it's only feeding one emitter. Just now you need to find the other connector to use it. Or to be safe, up the wattage of the resistor on the opto board and pull from the same emitter source.

Ha! Mine is April 15; can I join the party?

Quick addendum - I got called into the office early this morning. I haven't had my coffee yet, and don't have access to my game today, so if something I typed above makes NO sense, gimme a little leeway, please.

Perfectly normal. Happens on mine too, I can play only twice a year (on holidays), and everytime I find the clock perfect and the date stopped on the month I last played. I think there is a routine that must go once a month to let the game update the month at the end of it. I still, every time, adjust the date (my ocd... )

That's funny, mine is of the same date.
I wonder how many TZ's Williams made each day?

I think I'm good for now. Won't start this for awhile. Need to accumulate parts.

Thank you Coyote and DumbAss for all your help !
LTG : )

It doesn't exist. I'll need to figure where it's wire is.

LTG : )

A little nod to one of my favorite episodes and TZ: The Movie, which I’ve always liked.

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Agreed that the 'Walking Distance' episode of TZ is one of the best with Gig Young. Ronnie Howard also had a small bit role in this episode. TZ is still a classic television series after 6 decades.

Gord

Yep! Ronnie is like 5 years old in it. Gig had a tumultuous career and life, which ended tragically in the late 70’s just a few years after he won acclaim for his role in They Shoot Horses Don’t They? I’ve always liked Walking Distance, one of the nostalgia episodes, like Young Man’s Fancy. I also love The Monsters are Due on Maple Street and What You Need. My all time fav is Nick of Time with William Shatner.

TZ has been a favorite series of mine for a long time (although I wasn't alive when it aired). I have many favorite episodes-- including The Masks, The Silence A Game of Pool and Stop in Willoughby... to name a few. Neve gets stale.

A Game of Pool is a good one, with the late, great Jonathon Winters. The Masks is creepy. One of the best also.

I recently watched Number 12 Looks Just Like You and I was amazed how much it can apply to life today. With the influence of social media, so many girls out there dress identically and do their hair in the same exact style and color. So, when I saw this episode, I wanted to show it to my nieces to prove what I always say to them about not just copying what everyone else does out there(i.e. all the sluts on Instagram). I want them to be themselves and be unique and stand firm and be confident and secure in who they are and not just be followers like everyone else. We live in sad times when life imitates art from 60 years ago, and especially when it's art from the Twilight Zone.

It’s coming along!

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Wow! The chrome has won the battle!! Very nice!

Looks amazing!

Btw have you got metal leg protectors under the blue plastic ones to hold them off the cabinet decals? If not then you should look into it, otherwise overtime the plastic ones will damage the decals.

I do, thanks for the reminder tho. There is a slight wrinkle of the decal where the metal protector pinches it. I like the look of light blue protectors on TZ. They shouldn’t make matters worse with metal protectors under them. I might apply a little heat to remove the wrinkle and leave them off.

Unsure where the metal protector can pinch the decal - I assuming you removed the decal from under the metal protector (normally have a little clearance around the edge of the protector but this is all hidden behind the leg itself)?

Exactly, whoever applied the cab decal didn’t remove the decal from under the metal stand-off/leg protector, instead covering it, and creating a pinch at the corners. It’s mild, and I may trim it myself.

Quick question - I havae what I believe is a fair amount of "humming" seemingly emanating from the cabinet transformer. My ToM has a bit of a hum too that you can hear when things are quiet--just seems the TZ transformer hum is a bit more pronounced. Game is working fine but just wanted to poll the group to see if I should have any concern here. Thanks!

It is highly unlikely that the transformer is humming. It is probably coming from your speakers. Turn the volume down and or pull the wires off the speaker in the cabinet. Does the humming go away? Report back and we can give you some recommendations.

With volume all the way down there is still a slight hum... not obnoxious but it's there.

So it seems to me that the hum is coming from the speakers and not the transformer. In reality, the noise is probably coming from your audio board. This is normally one of two things. Failing capacitors on the audio board or grounding issues. If I were to guess, I would say your capacitors are failing on your audio board since they are likely original and 40 years old. There is a kit available that has all the parts you need. If you can solder, I highly recommend the repair before things get worse and cause additional damage.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CAPKITWPC

or here is another option.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1129-yorktown-arcade-supply/01826-bally-williams-pinball-wpc-audio-sound-board-cap-kit-a-12738

Transformers can hum. If you google it you’ll find plenty of discussion on the matter. On the WPC systems it seemed more common in WPC-S systems and later, as they moved the transformer to the rear of the cabinet and mounted it on a steel plate which made it much worse. Check that the bolts holding the transformer together are tight, check it is secured firmly to the cabinet (if you add rubber washers or on the TOM remove the plate, then please ensure you still have the transformer earthed), people often talk about giving the transformer a wack (although I haven’t tried that technique thou it seems to work for some).

Transformer hum is not going to cause an issue, so no need for concern but worth checking it out.

Thanks much - if it's the capacitors on the audio board would there be a visual queue they're failing (i.e., bulging or some other visual queue)?

I'll double check the transformer as well to ensure it is firmly planted to the cabinet.

Sure, they can but on TZ it is a rarity. On my game it is dead silent. I gather from the response from the OP that the humming lessens when the volume is turned down. If so, it is likely audio capacitors. But, for sure check to make sure the transformer is secured good. I have my own theory about transformer noise and the metal plate. It too involves the audio board. It also seems some people are super sensitive to that particular type of noise.

Sadly, usually not in this application. If the caps are original, I guaranty they are out of specifications. They do sell cheap cap testers on Amazon / eBay that can test in circuit, but it is always better to test them out of circuit. If you do happen to buy one, make sure you test the new caps going into your board before installing. I have found many bad capacitors that way over the years.

Will do - I appreciate the tips on this.

Have an interesting issue going on with a TZ. Power the game on, click start, game puts ball in shooter lane all lamps and sound/display are normal. I click the right flipper button once and the flipper proceeds to get stuck up and several flashers lock on. Powered the game off, then turned it back on because I wanted to test if clicking the left flipper button this time would initiate the same issue. Press the start button again, game starts normal just as before. I am able to click the left and right flipper button multiple times so I plunge the ball. Ball goes into play then i hit it into the slot scoop/click flippers. Display becomes garbled, both flipper get stuck up, several flashers stuck on. Powered the game off and then began a visual inspection of the flipper mechs and cabinet switches. Did not identify any short around those areas though that is what I suspected it to be. Does anyone have an idea of where to proceed from that point? Thank you in advance for your thoughts/help

12 volts on the driver board is dropping.

Check the test point on your driver board first.

LTG : )

Thanks for the reply. I had swapped the driver with a Dracula driver prior to this and both boards blew F112 fuse as well. I also swapped the mpu & the ribbon cable between the mpu and driver

New TZ Plastic on market. $50 plus shipping.

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I am dying to know who picked up the TZ in Northern VA, (Lorton) at auction on Sunday evening the 30th for $6,623.75 plus tax?

I’m having an odd problem with my TZ. It start with the dreaded “clock broken” error. I went into the clock test and noted that the 45 minute opto was stuck closed.

During gameplay the right ramp diverted would randomly activate. Getting closer, seems to be related to row 3 of the matrix. The left orbit and right ramp optos are intermittent, mostly working, but jitter at times. The 45 opto is broken for the most part, but does work at times.

I have an Ingo board, for what that’s worth.

I haven’t begun troubleshooting it outside of identifying row 3 as the commonality between the 3 optos.

Those two tiny .100 connectors are super flaky under the clock housing.

Check ALL switches - optos will show closed when the row's 'broken', but other switches will NOT record 'closed' when pressed. See how normal switchs are acting in that row.

Looking for a working CPU. EPROM not necessary but the RAM and processor must be intact. Let me know what you have.
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The other ones act normal. Aside from the right ramp and left orbit jittering occasionally.

Sexy! Engraved shooter housing.

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Beautifull, did you make it yourself or did you buy it somewhere?

Rottendog seems to be the only replacement. Anyone have issues with those? I see it is shipped without a CPU, wondering how they test the board prior to shipment.

Anyone here use this board for your machine?

I had a Rottendog replacement on my first TZ it worked very well for me.

PinLED still sells them, I think. DumbAss also makes a replacement, and his work's top notch. You'll have to wait though.

This is awesome! I want one!

In playing with my game a bit last night, my switch issue goes beyond just row 3. I assume my 12V supply needs work. Regardless, the driver board caps need replaced so I’ll start there. Hopefully that’s it….

Thanks for the info. I will be going through my original board before I pull the pin on a replacement board. No visible issues, but I am going to look at the LM339 abd ULN2803 chips as my door switch signal doesn't seem to be making it to the processor - keeps telling me to open the door before I go through the menu buttons. And I'll likely install sockets if I have to remove the ICs. The RAM is not socketed so I'll pull that and I might have an old-stock part to install.

Other oddball things are lack of volume control (goes to MAX), several random solenoids firing, gumball machine solenoid popping continuously, weird things like that. I replaced all the sorry-looking ribbon cables thinking that could be an issue or two, but no help. Clock tries to reset on boot-up, but doesn't always go to 12:00. Goes to 2:00, 4:00, 7:00 etc. LEDs on the processor board operate normally except an occasional top LED D19 staying on. Reboot brings it back to normal usually. LCD display works normally.

Just a bunch of weird issues point to a bugaboo in the processor control. I haven't ruled out power supply issues yet although I re-capped it a few years ago and all was well then and for a few years afterward. I put a 5 volt digital display permanently on the board to monitor the voltage and it's rock-steady.

Got me spooked....thanks again.