Quoted from JohnTTwo:

Looks like they are not bend up at all.
So whats the next way to get the shooter rod centered up? [quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Zee:

Put little rubber pads under the playfield hooks?

Quoted from JohnTTwo:

If I put 1/4" of felt on the hooks will the hooks then hit the glass?

Quoted from mbaumle:

Question regarding ball search and missing ball compensation:
Current ROMs are 9.4h

Scenario:
Ball gets stuck someplace. I’ll power cycle the game, so only 2 balls are in the trough. I turn the game on, press start, and instead of the game recognizing there’s only 2 balls and doing the usually ball search cycle before allowing a game to start, it starts immediately, but will ball search indefinitely. The game will refuse to compensate for the lack of a 3rd ball.
Is this how 9.4h operates? A bug? No other switch problems in the game otherwise. Plays completely fine.

Quoted from monkfe:

How did the guy making the divertor mod make out? any progress with it? Haven't seen anything posted in a while...

Quoted from Dreadreaper:

...
2) Yelling "work damn you, work!"...

Quoted from horseflesh:

Good question! I've not been paying attention to the forum for a little while, but came back to catch up on the TZ thread and post an update.
After some more prototypes in plastic I went ahead and got parts in laser-cut steel from OSH Cut. They were delivered today.
I am actually testing 2 versions... the larger one matches the whole top of the diverter and has a nice factory look. The smaller version also sticks to the top of the diverter but because of its size, you can scoot left and right a little bit without making the outline of the diverter even uglier than it already is.
Why would you adjust the position? I found that how close the one-way gate is to the diverter is the main way you can tune the mechanism. If the gate is too close to the diverter, the ball can bounce back out before the gate falls. When the gate is farther away, it can fall down and trap the ball, but the ball has a larger cage. With more wiggle room, it is possible for the ball not be at rest on the left side of the wireform when the diverter tilts, and get knocked off.
The spacing of the large part is what I determined to work best on my machine, and it works really well... though I already have ideas for improvements! But it was cheap to get the repositionable version made too, so I did for insurance. I guess it is possible that someone else's machine might tolerate a smaller "cage" and enjoy even better reliability.
Here are some flat parts and two with bends added. I got both parts in 20 and 24 gauge brushed stainless--I have never worked in metal before and wasn't sure which thickness would be best. The thicker metal is more like what is in the game, but this part doesn't need to be thick, it doesn't get pounded... the thinner part is less obtrusive, and after comparing how they looked it is what I installed in my game.
[quoted image]
Here's the XL 24 gauge version installed in my game. Looks pretty good, but I am going to make one with the starfield that I showed before, too.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Quoted from Dreadreaper:

Just joined the club and am having the dreaded sound issues. Sound works approximately 20% of the time, the rest of the time it is dead (not quiet). Goes in and out as you play, with no particular sound/trigger causing it to jump back in.
Things tried so far:
1) Reseat all cables that attach to sound board (and ribbon cables that connect it to other boards).
2) Yelling "work damn you, work!"
One thing I noticed is that if I jiggle the ribbon cable that connects the top left board to the bottom left board, it causes the game to reset (this is the one that bridges over to the sound board). Does this mean I should replace that ribbon cable as a place to start? Where do I buy replacement ribbon cables specifically for TZ?
I have read through the thread and seen the following things suggested as being the issue:
1) Ribbon cable
2) Capacitors (in several places)
3) Speakers themselves
4) Wires connecting to speakers are broken/exposed
5) Bad sound chip
6) Bad CPU chip
Interestingly, most people who said they replaced the sound board found it did not fix their issue.
Is there a consensus on the most common cause of this issue after almost 30 years of Twilight Zone?
Any help appreciated - thank you!

Quoted from Zitt:

Is anyone interested in getting some clock boards from Pinball.Center for Twilight zone?
They are wanting to know if I wish to order any from them in this group buy closing on Sunday.
This is not something I usually stock on my store.
There's a video of the board in action on their product page.
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/electronics-parts/circuit-boards/10378/clock-board-for-twilight-zone?number=66965

If you are interested; please contact me in the group buy thread or send me a PM to discuss terms/get on the list.

Quoted from mbaumle:

Following up with this:
Even after a full restore, I can even start a game with 0 balls in the trough. I can start a game, but then goes into a ball search when it realizes a ball hasn't been delivered to the shooter lane. It seems like there's absolutely no missing ball compensation, which really surprises me. Can anyone verify that this is proper game operation?

Quoted from Davi:

Looks like a copy of Caspers board.

Quoted from awesome1:

Have you verified in switch test that all of the trough switches are working correctly?

Quoted from Davi:

Looks like a copy of Caspers board.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from ramegoom:

Totally ripped off of Caspers design. Amazing how someone can get away with this.

Quoted from sandro:

I know I could just pick up one of Mirco's playfields already setup for the third magnet, but I worry about all the negative stuff I hear about his fields.

Quoted from sandro:

Had a bit of a scare with my TZ tonight (though the pf had a paint chip). But it did highlight the fact that the inserts are starting to lift slightly (not affecting the ball path), and I've been meaning to get a 3rd magnet mod done to the machine. I happen to have a spare NOS playfield I picked up way back in the 90s. I had planned to have it drilled and cleared, but I think it's developed a slight bow near the gumball cutout. It box is probably about 2mm, enough to be visible while sighting down the top edge of the playfield. Otherwise, I think the spare pf is in great shape. Is that sort of thing repairable?
I know I could just pick up one of Mirco's playfields already setup for the third magnet, but I worry about all the negative stuff I hear about his fields.
I'm pretty sure I don't want to pull my existing playfield and send it out, since I'm not sure on my ability to pull of a full swap, and if I do it, I think it'd be easier to transfer parts from one playfield straight to another.

Quoted from KJS:

Just finished an interactive topper for a guy. No TZ here anymore so had to test on my Jaws machine

Quoted from sandro:

Had a bit of a scare with my TZ tonight (though the pf had a paint chip). But it did highlight the fact that the inserts are starting to lift slightly (not affecting the ball path), and I've been meaning to get a 3rd magnet mod done to the machine. I happen to have a spare NOS playfield I picked up way back in the 90s. I had planned to have it drilled and cleared, but I think it's developed a slight bow near the gumball cutout. It box is probably about 2mm, enough to be visible while sighting down the top edge of the playfield. Otherwise, I think the spare pf is in great shape. Is that sort of thing repairable?
I know I could just pick up one of Mirco's playfields already setup for the third magnet, but I worry about all the negative stuff I hear about his fields.
I'm pretty sure I don't want to pull my existing playfield and send it out, since I'm not sure on my ability to pull of a full swap, and if I do it, I think it'd be easier to transfer parts from one playfield straight to another.

Quoted from hawknole:

This is repairable. I heard Nero on here is doing good repair & clear work, won’t be cheap.

Quoted from Dreadreaper:

Just joined the club and am having the dreaded sound issues. Sound works approximately 20% of the time, the rest of the time it is dead (not quiet). Goes in and out as you play, with no particular sound/trigger causing it to jump back in.
Things tried so far:
1) Reseat all cables that attach to sound board (and ribbon cables that connect it to other boards).
2) Yelling "work damn you, work!"
One thing I noticed is that if I jiggle the ribbon cable that connects the top left board to the bottom left board, it causes the game to reset (this is the one that bridges over to the sound board). Does this mean I should replace that ribbon cable as a place to start? Where do I buy replacement ribbon cables specifically for TZ?
I have read through the thread and seen the following things suggested as being the issue:
1) Ribbon cable
2) Capacitors (in several places)
3) Speakers themselves
4) Wires connecting to speakers are broken/exposed
5) Bad sound chip
6) Bad CPU chip
Interestingly, most people who said they replaced the sound board found it did not fix their issue.
Is there a consensus on the most common cause of this issue after almost 30 years of Twilight Zone?
Any help appreciated - thank you!

Quoted from monkfe:

you mean Capt Neo?....yes good work...not cheap....but what is these days...

Quoted from ray-dude:

Folks, I'm stripping down my TZ for a cleaning and saw what looks like two pilot holes right by the lock ball outlet (see photo). Are there supposed to be posts here or something, or maybe is this a vestige of some older iteration of the design?
[quoted image]

Quoted from Scoot:

This is the first real look under the hood of my newly acquired TZ and I noticed the two big holes on the door lighted board. Is this stock or am I missing something?
[quoted image]

Quoted from Scoot:

Thanks for the info.

Quoted from Manny65:

Here’s his thread for the door lamp board mod https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-door-lamp-board-flashers-add-on

Quoted from Scoot:

This is the first real look under the hood of my newly acquired TZ and I noticed the two big holes on the door lighted board. Is this stock or am I missing something?
[quoted image]

Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:

I have casper electronics clock board and have no complaints. It does work with GI OCD. The lighting is very even throughout the clock unlike some others due to the led lights strips. I also have Twister power field switch kit and works great and looks great!

Quoted from Davi:

I think it's time to introduce auto-upvote

Quoted from mbaumle:

The third magnet also changed the way the balls are grabbed during “the spiral” mode as well:

A mod definitely worth doing if you’re ever in the position to do a playfield swap.

Quoted from BadBrad97:

One day I will dig back into it again.

Quoted from BadBrad97:

I just never can find the wiring diagram for it,

Quoted from WW2GURU:

Looks like I need to dig deeper.

Quoted from WW2GURU:

Weak upper right flipper and I've run out of ideas. I’ve rebuilt it and I did find just about everything wrong with it and now it’s as smooth as butter. Seemed like the smoking gun at the time. Cleaned flipper optos as suggested, verified voltage and checked for fractured solder joints at the coil. Looks like I need to dig deeper.

Quoted from WW2GURU:

Weak upper right flipper and I've run out of ideas. I’ve rebuilt it and I did find just about everything wrong with it and now it’s as smooth as butter. Seemed like the smoking gun at the time. Cleaned flipper optos as suggested, verified voltage and checked for fractured solder joints at the coil. Looks like I need to dig deeper.

Quoted from horseflesh:

Good question! I've not been paying attention to the forum for a little while, but came back to catch up on the TZ thread and post an update.
After some more prototypes in plastic I went ahead and got parts in laser-cut steel from OSH Cut. They were delivered today.
I am actually testing 2 versions... the larger one matches the whole top of the diverter and has a nice factory look. The smaller version also sticks to the top of the diverter but because of its size, you can scoot left and right a little bit without making the outline of the diverter even uglier than it already is.
Why would you adjust the position? I found that how close the one-way gate is to the diverter is the main way you can tune the mechanism. If the gate is too close to the diverter, the ball can bounce back out before the gate falls. When the gate is farther away, it can fall down and trap the ball, but the ball has a larger cage. With more wiggle room, it is possible for the ball not be at rest on the left side of the wireform when the diverter tilts, and get knocked off.
The spacing of the large part is what I determined to work best on my machine, and it works really well... though I already have ideas for improvements! But it was cheap to get the repositionable version made too, so I did for insurance. I guess it is possible that someone else's machine might tolerate a smaller "cage" and enjoy even better reliability.
Here are some flat parts and two with bends added. I got both parts in 20 and 24 gauge brushed stainless--I have never worked in metal before and wasn't sure which thickness would be best. The thicker metal is more like what is in the game, but this part doesn't need to be thick, it doesn't get pounded... the thinner part is less obtrusive, and after comparing how they looked it is what I installed in my game.
[quoted image]
Here's the XL 24 gauge version installed in my game. Looks pretty good, but I am going to make one with the starfield that I showed before, too.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]