(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

8 years ago


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There are 11,701 posts in this topic. You are on page 231 of 235.
#11501 58 days ago
Quoted from pinballizfun:

If you are using millwax every 3 months, you are never waxing your games. It contains no wax at all.

From what I've read the label says it contains: aliphatic hydrocarbons, water, silica, kerosene, and dimethylpolysiloxane. Parafin waxes made from long-chain aliphatic hydrocarbons, so looks like Millwax is a petroleum based parafin wax.

#11502 57 days ago

I refuse to use millwax, gave my bottle away and only use novus2 then Grand Blitz One wax now.

#11503 57 days ago
Quoted from pinballizfun:

If you are using millwax every 3 months, you are never waxing your games. It contains no wax at all.

so Mill"WAX" doesnt contain wax at all?
this is a very interesting comment you made right here.

#11504 57 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

From what I've read the label says it contains: aliphatic hydrocarbons, water, silica, kerosene, and dimethylpolysiloxane. Parafin waxes made from long-chain aliphatic hydrocarbons, so looks like Millwax is a petroleum based parafin wax.

not a wax you'd use to protect things. makes nice candles though. its mostly silicone. Have fun with that if you ever need to do any touch ups.

#11505 57 days ago

MillWax has been in use with pinball operators since several decades.
I think it's absolutely fine.

not trying to convince anybody here, just saying that i've been using it myself for a few years on my Bally/Williams games and am very happy with.

#11506 57 days ago
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:

MillWax has been in use with pinball operators since several decades.
I think it's absolutely fine.
not trying to convince anybody here, just saying that i've been using it myself for a few years on my Bally/Williams games and am very happy with.

its not going to hurt them, outside of having a much higher petroleum distillate concentration. But it certainly isn't going to protect them.

#11507 57 days ago
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:

MillWax has been in use with pinball operators since several decades.

Comet cleanser was used by pinball operators for years too.

And over the years we keep learning better products to use to protect our games.

I prefer things that don't eat the container they are in, lift the edges of mylar, melt the bottoms of plastic star posts.

LTG : )

#11508 57 days ago

I remember Pinball Pete from phila. Mentioning buffing your Playfield with pure silicon spay or liquids.I have tried it and it does work well.

#11509 55 days ago

working on my TZ..where can i get the right size and strength magnet for diverter?

Thx

#11510 55 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

working on my TZ..where can i get the right size and strength magnet for diverter?

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-magnet-coil-20-9247.html

LTG : )

#11511 55 days ago

thx lloyd... actually looking for the little magnet that you secure on top of the diverter to keep ball from flying off....but you are the best as always

#11512 55 days ago

ebay.com link: itm

Quoted from billsfanmd:

working on my TZ..where can i get the right size and strength magnet for diverter?
Thx

#11513 54 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

actually looking for the little magnet that you secure on top of the diverter to keep ball from flying off

I found that the magnet from an old dead hard drive worked well. You won't know what shape you have until you crack a drive open though and sometimes they are awkwardly shaped.

(Having a magnet is better than none, but I still hate that darn diverter, the Powerball can bounce right out of it. I'm thinking about how to make a one-way wire gate mod.)

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#11514 54 days ago
Quoted from DDandB-KID:

ebay.com link: itm

20 for a magnet. They also have a gum all light kit for 120. Ouch. May grab bothb I like the light kit and anything that brightens the back

#11515 54 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

20 for a magnet. They also have a gum all light kit for 120. Ouch. May grab bothb I like the light kit and anything that brightens the back

Go to Home Depot, it’s like 2 for $5.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Magnet-3-8-in-x-1-2-x-1-7-8-in-Heavy-Duty-Block-Magnet-2-per-Pack-96294/203613126

#11517 53 days ago

I have an ingo clock board dating back to 2010. The board has cool white LEDs in it. I would like to change the bulbs to warm white but am intimidated by opening it (for now). Does anyone know if an 2010 ingo era board has socketed bulbs that can be changed or are they soldered in?

#11518 53 days ago

Just putting my feelers out there: gonna swap my playfield. Are there any “plug and play” 3rd magnet installation kits available anywhere?

#11519 53 days ago

socketed

Quoted from in2kiss:

I have an ingo clock board dating back to 2010. The board has cool white LEDs in it. I would like to change bulbs to warm white but am intimidated by opening it (for now). Does anyone know in an 2010 ingo era board has socketed bulbs that can be changed or are they soldered in?

#11520 47 days ago
Quoted from in2kiss:

I have an ingo clock board dating back to 2010. The board has cool white LEDs in it. I would like to change the bulbs to warm white but am intimidated by opening it (for now). Does anyone know if an 2010 ingo era board has socketed bulbs that can be changed or are they soldered in?

Don't be intimidated. Get in there and get'er done. Pinball maintenance and repair is way easier than you think. The only advice that you must absolutely abide is:

1. Turn off the game.
2. Take your time (this should be#1)
3. Use the right parts
4. Do your research
5. Plan to screw up a few times
6. Feel cool after replacing a dead diode on a coil and a transistor that blew up because of it!
7. When a nut you've removed disappears into the machine, remember that each machine comes with a gnome that steals loose hardware. Swearing only encourages them.

You're now ready to change the lighting in your clock.

#11521 47 days ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Just putting my feelers out there: gonna swap my playfield. Are there any “plug and play” 3rd magnet installation kits available anywhere?

I don't think there are. I was planning the same thing but ended up back to the original 2 magnets.

#11522 47 days ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

When a nut you've removed disappears into the machine, remember that each machine comes with a gnome that steals loose hardware. Swearing only encourages them.

I thought I heard something running around after I dropped a lock nut! Dang those little fellas are quick!! Must live somewhere under the transformer.

#11523 47 days ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

I thought I heard something running around after I dropped a lock nut! Dang those little fellas are quick!! Must live somewhere under the transformer.

Totally. Some speculate they're under there because it's warmer...

#11524 46 days ago

My TZ has started adding players mid-game. I searched for past posts here on the topic and came up empty.

Running 9.2

Most recent game it happened as the ball went right ramp to ball drop, flippered to into piano hole.

This time it only added 2nd player. The day before, it added to 4 players in succession.

Question I have is to see if this is a board issue, connection issue, power issue or what.

I do not believe it is something in the game/ start button being hit given I was not nudging things when it happened this last time or previously. I also shook the game while not
playing to see if it started a game and did not.

Any thoughts or recommendations from similar experience appreciated.

#11525 45 days ago
Quoted from gregariousone:

My TZ has started adding players mid-game. I searched for past posts here on the topic and came up empty.
Running 9.2
Most recent game it happened as the ball went right ramp to ball drop, flippered to into piano hole.
This time it only added 2nd player. The day before, it added to 4 players in succession.
Question I have is to see if this is a board issue, connection issue, power issue or what.
I do not believe it is something in the game/ start button being hit given I was not nudging things when it happened this last time or previously. I also shook the game while not
playing to see if it started a game and did not.
Any thoughts or recommendations from similar experience appreciated.

Go into switch test mode and see if the start button switch is being triggered. Even leave it on in switch test mode for while and see if it happens to get triggered

#11526 45 days ago

Any battery damage on the CPU ?

LTG : )

#11527 45 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Any battery damage on the CPU ?
LTG : )

No damage, batteries were previously moved off the board.
Thanks for the reply Lloyd.

#11528 45 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Go into switch test mode and see if the start button switch is being triggered. Even leave it on in switch test mode for while and see if it happens to get triggered

I did that as well with no issue. I have Genevea & Lock switch errors. Given the location for both, I have not tackled the fixes yet.
Tonight I played a few more games and it did the same thing. Seems to be occurring with piano scoop activity, but not always. It is hard to see when with the player addition call sometimes getting covered by game voice calls. Just testing piano scoop or ball drop, doesn't seem to make it happen.

Going to try to test more and see if I can isolate to a single contact switch/ opto via trial & error I guess.

If you, LTG and possibly Coyote have not run across it before, I guess I’ll be stuck with 4 player games for awhile

Thanks for the feedback guys!

#11529 45 days ago
Quoted from gregariousone:

Question I have is to see if this is a board issue, connection issue, power issue or what.

Most of the time when you're getting switch closures you don't want, it's not going to be a problem on the boards, but a matrix problem from playfield wiring.

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#11530 45 days ago

Horseflesh… Thanks this direction helps.

#11531 45 days ago

I have had bad connections in connectors under the playfield that has given me headaches particularly around the opto board.

#11532 45 days ago
Quoted from gregariousone:

I did that as well with no issue. I have Genevea & Lock switch errors. Given the location for both, I have not tackled the fixes yet.
Tonight I played a few more games and it did the same thing. Seems to be occurring with piano scoop activity, but not always. It is hard to see when with the player addition call sometimes getting covered by game voice calls. Just testing piano scoop or ball drop, doesn't seem to make it happen.
Going to try to test more and see if I can isolate to a single contact switch/ opto via trial & error I guess.
If you, LTG and possibly Coyote have not run across it before, I guess I’ll be stuck with 4 player games for awhile
Thanks for the feedback guys!

The start button and piano switches are on the same row, so maybe you have a shorted diode causing the issue and creating phantom closures of the start button - here is some background theory

Can you take pic of the switch matrix (in switch test mode)?

#11533 45 days ago

manny65-

The start button and piano switches are….

I will do that and get back to you. Might be a day or so.

Thanks

#11534 45 days ago
Quoted from gregariousone:

My TZ has started adding players mid-game. I searched for past posts here on the topic and came up empty.
Running 9.2
Most recent game it happened as the ball went right ramp to ball drop, flippered to into piano hole.
This time it only added 2nd player. The day before, it added to 4 players in succession.
Question I have is to see if this is a board issue, connection issue, power issue or what.
I do not believe it is something in the game/ start button being hit given I was not nudging things when it happened this last time or previously. I also shook the game while not
playing to see if it started a game and did not.
Any thoughts or recommendations from similar experience appreciated.

On Indiana Jones Pinball Adventure (similar genre WPC, had this issue when a diode got bent into the middle lead of a switch that was exposed to getting hit with the ball. You can diagnose it all in switch tests (try to hit a bunch of switches to get the start switch to light up), but I’d start by looking for bent up diodes that could be shorting on something.

#11535 44 days ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

On Indiana Jones Pinball Adventure (similar genre WPC, had this issue when a diode got bent into the middle lead of a switch that was exposed to getting hit with the ball. You can diagnose it all in switch tests (try to hit a bunch of switches to get the start switch to light up), but I’d start by looking for bent up diodes that could be shorting on something.

I will take a look as you describe. Thanks

#11536 44 days ago

Quick Questions:
1. Is there a 12v GI bulb output
2. if so where is it
3. if not is there an open J pin on one of the boards to draw 12v dc from J105, J105-4, J105-5, J106, J107-1 are not used but do they carry a current?

Please and thank you

#11537 44 days ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

Is there a 12v GI bulb output

No.

LTG : )

#11538 44 days ago

My TZ recently has not been sensing the powerball in the trough, therefore not triggering powerball mode when the ball is served to the shooter lane. What is the usual cause of this and some tests or things to look for. Starting to get annoyed with playing with the challenge of the powerball but not getting the extra points out of it. Thanks.

#11539 44 days ago
Quoted from misterman:

What is the usual cause of this and some tests or things to look for.

Tests - Switch Edge - place a steel ball next to the sensor at the end of the ball trough - does switch #26 report on the screen ? If not fix that. If so, check your other ball trough switches and shooter lane switches.

It can't sense the powerball ( ceramic ) it goes by the other switches and sensor to see if a steel ball went by or not.

LTG : )

#11540 44 days ago
Quoted from misterman:

My TZ recently has not been sensing the powerball in the trough, therefore not triggering powerball mode when the ball is served to the shooter lane. What is the usual cause of this and some tests or things to look for. Starting to get annoyed with playing with the challenge of the powerball but not getting the extra points out of it. Thanks.

Quoted from LTG:

Tests - Switch Edge - place a steel ball next to the sensor at the end of the ball trough - does switch #26 report on the screen ? If not fix that. If so, check your other ball trough switches and shooter lane switches.
It can't sense the powerball ( ceramic ) it goes by the other switches and sensor to see if a steel ball went by or not.
LTG : )

As LTG mentioned, check that first. This is fairly common issue with TZ and in many cases is a faulty connection point between the little cable and the sensor and board it goes to. Look under the playfield and check the connections. Wiggle it and/or you can bend the prongs slightly to make better connection. Some solder directly to both boards and eliminate the connection points.

#11541 43 days ago

Thanks for both replies. I think I'll test the switches and then take out the sensor parts involved, poke around on them with my meter and add some solder like you said where it may be needed. Will report back if I have success.

#11542 43 days ago
Quoted from misterman:

Thanks for both replies. I think I'll test the switches and then take out the sensor parts involved, poke around on them with my meter and add some solder like you said where it may be needed. Will report back if I have success.

Having the same problem. Following

#11543 43 days ago
Quoted from misterman:

Thanks for both replies. I think I'll test the switches and then take out the sensor parts involved, poke around on them with my meter and add some solder like you said where it may be needed. Will report back if I have success.

Over the course of working on a few different TZs I've found that the little eddy sensor also appears to be quite sensitive to it's proximity to the ball. To make matters a bit more difficult, you don't want the ball touching the sensor when it's installed either. As it doesn't take long before the ball pounding into the sensor simply breaks it. And it's not just the 1st ball in the trough that hammers it either, think Newton's Cradle.

Oh and since the balls don't settle in the trough in the same position when the PF is tilted up, it makes it that much more of a pain to adjust it. All around it's a lot of fiddling to get it right.

#11544 43 days ago
Quoted from misterman:

My TZ recently has not been sensing the powerball in the trough, therefore not triggering powerball mode when the ball is served to the shooter lane. What is the usual cause of this and some tests or things to look for. Starting to get annoyed with playing with the challenge of the powerball but not getting the extra points out of it. Thanks.

Does it not recognize the powerball after full plunge? There are two eddy sensors. One in the shooter lane and the other in the subway. Like others said, it triggers by steel balls and not the ceramic ball. Usually the shooter lane one is the issue and not the subway one. You want to make sure it's close to the ball without touching and tight so it does not wiggle loose. Most recommend soldering the two little boards together if it keeps being an issue. This eliminates the connector which appears to be source of issue.

#11545 42 days ago
Quoted from misterman:

My TZ recently has not been sensing the powerball in the trough, therefore not triggering powerball mode when the ball is served to the shooter lane. What is the usual cause of this and some tests or things to look for. Starting to get annoyed with playing with the challenge of the powerball but not getting the extra points out of it. Thanks.

There is a lot of vibration going on in the ball trough and sometimes all that is needed is to re-adjust the sensor since it has moved out of place.
When adjusting, do so against the power ball since it is slightly larger than the steel balls.
If you adjust it so it nearly touches the steel ball it will get nocked out of place by the power ball.
Instead adjust it so you can just get a piece of paper between the sensor and the power ball and then tighten it down hard. If the screw hole in the wood is starting to give way, put a piece of a toothpick in the hole for the screw to grab and you will be all good.

#11546 39 days ago

Can the bulb in the extra ball button be replaced or need I buy a new button? I thought it could be replaced but in trying to take apart the button it’s not budging and doesn’t seem perhaps like it’s designed to take apart. Either than or the plastic insert that holds the switch is really stuck. Thx

#11547 39 days ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Can the bulb in the extra ball button be replaced

Yes. 555 in there.

Quoted from jackd104:

I thought it could be replaced but in trying to take apart the button it’s not budging

Leave the switch on it, more to grab. YANK, TWIST, PULL, it can be stubborn. Snaps back into place hard too.

LTG : )

#11548 36 days ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Can the bulb in the extra ball button be replaced or need I buy a new button? I thought it could be replaced but in trying to take apart the button it’s not budging and doesn’t seem perhaps like it’s designed to take apart. Either than or the plastic insert that holds the switch is really stuck. Thx

Yeah it can be replaced. Mine gave me fits at first too.

#11549 35 days ago

I replaced the slot machine scoop with a Mantis build. https://mantispinball.com/product/twilight-zone-slot-machine-scoop/

It is really nice and solid build! It has improved the consistency of the angle the ball hits the right flipper. The issue I am having now is the screws for the slot kicker mounting plate keep on getting loose and the kicker gets misaligned. I wish the kicker was mounted with 3 or 4 screws rather than 2. What have you used for preventing the screws from coming out of the wood. The drilled holes have become enlarged - wood epoxy and re-drill? Are there any mods for the kicker plate. I looked at the Mantis one but it is the same as the original. https://mantispinball.com/product/twilight-zone-slot-kicker-plate/

On a side note, I played TZ a bunch of times in the past week since I got Alien in September. TZ stands the test of time. I love this game.

#11550 35 days ago
Quoted from AD72:

I replaced the slot machine scoop with a Mantis build. https://mantispinball.com/product/twilight-zone-slot-machine-scoop/
It is really nice and solid build! It has improved the consistency of the angle the ball hits the right flipper. The issue I am having now is the screws for the slot kicker mounting plate keep on getting loose and the kicker gets misaligned. I wish the kicker was mounted with 3 or 4 screws rather than 2. What have you used for preventing the screws from coming out of the wood. The drilled holes have become enlarged - wood epoxy and re-drill? Are there any mods for the kicker plate. I looked at the Mantis one but it is the same as the original. https://mantispinball.com/product/twilight-zone-slot-kicker-plate/
On a side note, I played TZ a bunch of times in the past week since I got Alien in September. TZ stands the test of time. I love this game.

If the screw holes are enlarged, then you can use a wooden match or toothpick to partially fill the hole. With this technique you don't necessarily need to glue it however given it is holding the kicker and will be subject to vibrations & stress, it would probably to best to use a wood glue. Filling the hole with an epoxy and re-drilling is an alternative but not necessarily required if the hole is just enlarged as you have described

There are 11,701 posts in this topic. You are on page 231 of 235.

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