(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

8 years ago


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  • 11,498 posts
  • 766 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by Mad_Dog_Coin_Op
  • Topic is favorited by 413 Pinsiders

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There are 11,498 posts in this topic. You are on page 229 of 230.
#11401 42 days ago
Quoted from sbmania:

Looking for some advice. I'm working on a TZ and neither the clock nor the gumball will spin in test. The clock's optos all register manually in test but the hands wont turn either forward or backward. Neither will the gumball motor spin in test. Before I go all crazy searching for a solution, any ideas on what might be causing both errors. Possibly they are related?

I cant be of too much help, but to rule out something very simple I once never knew about... is the coin door closed when youre running the test?

#11402 42 days ago

yes to the coin door!

#11403 42 days ago
Quoted from sbmania:

any ideas on what might be causing both errors.

Disabled in settings ?

LTG : )

#11404 42 days ago

Hello Guys, i am newly in and enjoy a read on this forum. I have not that much issue at the moment, but the decals are quit faded and some plastics are broken. I am also thinking about adding a lighting mod for the gumball machine, if someone knows a good one i will be glad to get some advice.
Enjoy your game.

#11405 42 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Disabled in settings ?
LTG : )

Nope.

#11406 42 days ago

DumbAss I am happy to report that TZ seems to be fixed. I replaced the connector and header at J101, where I knew the problem was. In another thread where I had a parts question Chris Hibler suggested replacing J114 while the board was out, and redoing the solder on the LM323K. Piece of cake... back in the Zone again.

With what I learned, hopefully fixing my resetting White Water will be pretty easy.

#11407 42 days ago
Quoted from horseflesh:

I am happy to report that TZ seems to be fixed.

Great job!

Quoted from horseflesh:

With what I learned, hopefully fixing my resetting White Water will be pretty easy.

If you get stuck you can (obviously) post on this forum (in a different thread) or feel free to holler.

#11408 41 days ago

Just a little thing but I added a Dead End road sign decal to the blank metal above the lane …. Which had always annoyed me more than it ever should have Now I can sleep at night

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#11409 40 days ago
Quoted from Ditch_Digger:

Why would players not want this setting…what’s the deal?

If both your prox sensors (the sensors that detect the powerball) are working properly, then having this set to 'Yes' can 'accidentally' put the game into thinking a powerball is out when it isn't. This isn't a big issue, but can:
1. At the end of Multiball, cause the game to go into an 'unknown' powerball mode, where Powerfield isn't lit until a shot is made to the Piano, Camera, or one of the Spirals (and on the latter, the ball is captured).
2. It also prevents a really good player from activating this, and then tricking the game into awarding powerball jackpots during multiball when there is no powerball out.
3. It can then, cause a player to need to eject the real powerball from the gumball and re-load it before the game will re-activate the Magnet-Staging Multiball startup again.

"Yes" is the game's default, and how all previous ROMs with this code in place operated. This allowed a user to turn it off to prevent it from affecting/awarding the above.

#11410 40 days ago
Quoted from Ive:

I added a Dead End road sign decal to the blank metal above the lane

Now that's a good, simple mod ... and I am going to steal the idea. I think I can make a nice miniature sign with my laser engraver.

#11411 40 days ago
Quoted from horseflesh:

Now that's a good, simple mod ... and I am going to steal the idea. I think I can make a nice miniature sign with my laser engraver.

That sounds great. I was surprised it hadn’t been done before in some way.

#11412 40 days ago
Quoted from Ive:

Just a little thing but I added a Dead End road sign decal to the blank metal above the lane …. Which had always annoyed me more than it ever should have Now I can sleep at night
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah, I had to add something to that blank area as well!

Edit: Year+ old picture before I learned to switch my Orange and Yellow pop bumper caps!

IMG_9102 (resized).JPG

#11413 40 days ago

Thanks for the inspiration, Ive. I decided to use a black and white sign to be distinct from the Powerfield signs, which are mostly yellow.

This is just a first draft, I don't have the right white-on-black material on hand. I had to use black-on-white which is not the best when most of the image is white... it comes out a little dull.

I'm open to ideas on other sign variations, and if anyone's dying for a copy we can work it out. Stuff like this is no big deal to make once I locate the right materials.

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#11414 40 days ago
Quoted from horseflesh:

Thanks for the inspiration, Ive. I decided to use a black and white sign to be distinct from the Powerfield signs, which are mostly yellow.
This is just a first draft, I don't have the right white-on-black material on hand. I had to use black-on-white which is not the best when most of the image is white... it comes out a little dull.
I'm open to ideas on other sign variations, and if anyone's dying for a copy we can work it out. Stuff like this is no big deal to make once I locate the right materials. [quoted image][quoted image]

Nice work …. I like that ! Stands out more than my small decal .

#11415 39 days ago

Anybody else using pinstadiums in the TZ? Thoughts?

I am in the planning phase and have been dragging my feet on led swap for gi and inserts due to the needing 2 LEDOCD boards to pull it off well. Ran across this post showing incandescent bulbs with the use of pinstadiums and it looks pretty nice.

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#11416 39 days ago

I have a TZ. The longer my machine is turned on, seems like the sound keeps getting louder. I looked and volume was set at 8. I have replaced a few bad capacitors on audio board really did not help. Any ideas?

#11417 39 days ago
Quoted from Purdue:

Ran across this post showing incandescent bulbs with the use of pinstadiums and it looks pretty nice.

That does look good. It's a bit too blue for my taste but the illumination is nice and even.

Ive ya know what might be cool... Using that area for a sign that supports Town Square and the Dead End. Is this confusing?

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#11418 39 days ago
Quoted from Purdue:

Anybody else using pinstadiums in the TZ? Thoughts?
I am in the planning phase and have been dragging my feet on led swap for gi and inserts due to the needing 2 LEDOCD boards to pull it off well. Ran across this post showing incandescent bulbs with the use of pinstadiums and it looks pretty nice.[quoted image]

I haven't tried the Pinstadiums in TZ, but I did add both the GI-OCD and LED-OCD boards and think they work and look great, plus way less heat and system stress because of less current draw!

The price of both OCD board together is about the same as a Pinstadiums setup, I believe.

#11419 39 days ago
Quoted from Purdue:

Anybody else using pinstadiums in the TZ? Thoughts?
I am in the planning phase and have been dragging my feet on led swap for gi and inserts due to the needing 2 LEDOCD boards to pull it off well. Ran across this post showing incandescent bulbs with the use of pinstadiums and it looks pretty nice.[quoted image]

I don't have pinstadiums in any of my 90's Bally/Williams machines or LEDOCD boards. I actually pulled out the LED OCD board out of my William's IJ that I got from a Pinsider. Just too much and more boards to make issues. To me and this is my opinion their just not needed (there a personal choice). The pinstadium makes the playfield too bright and are in the way when the playfield is lifted. All my GI's and inserts are the super brights and frosted dome style on the upper side of the playfield and are from Coin Taker. I have owned my machine's way before both of these options were available and are very happy without them. I have through added extra GI lighting in the playfield in areas to help brighten it up along with 4 GI bulbs that shine down along the playfield back board.
Again this is just my opinion. Take a look at what mine looks like and draw your own opinion.

20210812_064854(0) (resized).jpg
#11420 39 days ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

I don't have pinstadiums in any of my 90's Bally/Williams machines or LEDOCD boards. I actually pulled out the LED OCD board out of my William's IJ that I got from a Pinsider. Just too much and more boards to make issues. To me and this is my opinion their just not needed (there a personal choice). The pinstadium makes the playfield too bright and are in the way when the playfield is lifted. All my GI's and inserts are the super brights and frosted dome style on the upper side of the playfield and are from Coin Taker. I have owned my machine's way before both of these options were available and are very happy without them. I have through added extra GI lighting in the playfield in areas to help brighten it up along with 4 GI bulbs that shine down along the playfield back board.
Again this is just my opinion. Take a look at what mine looks like and draw your own opinion. [quoted image]

Your TZ looks great!

TZ does have a fair amount of GI manipulation, especially dimming, that you will lose out on if just running straight LEDs and not a GI-OCD board though. That's why I added one in my TZ, but your mileage may vary.

#11421 39 days ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Your TZ looks great!
TZ does have a fair amount of GI manipulation, especially dimming, that you will lose out on if just running straight LEDs and not a GI-OCD board though. That's why I added one in my TZ, but your mileage may vary.

I have heard of this, but still very happy the way it works as of now.
Good luck on your choice. It is all about what an owner wants and/or does to their machines.

#11422 39 days ago
Quoted from horseflesh:

That does look good. It's a bit too blue for my taste but the illumination is nice and even.
Ive ya know what might be cool... Using that area for a sign that supports Town Square and the Dead End. Is this confusing?[quoted image]

horseflesh I like that also !

#11423 38 days ago

Pinstadium's? Yuck!
I will never install them in my pins.

#11424 38 days ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

I don't have pinstadiums in any of my 90's Bally/Williams machines or LEDOCD boards. I actually pulled out the LED OCD board out of my William's IJ that I got from a Pinsider. Just too much and more boards to make issues. To me and this is my opinion their just not needed (there a personal choice). The pinstadium makes the playfield too bright and are in the way when the playfield is lifted. All my GI's and inserts are the super brights and frosted dome style on the upper side of the playfield and are from Coin Taker. I have owned my machine's way before both of these options were available and are very happy without them. I have through added extra GI lighting in the playfield in areas to help brighten it up along with 4 GI bulbs that shine down along the playfield back board.
Again this is just my opinion. Take a look at what mine looks like and draw your own opinion. [quoted image]

Nice looking TZ - it looks like you might benefit from a sheet of invisiglass though? That's usually the very first "mod" I make to any machine I get.

#11425 38 days ago
Quoted from Damonator:

Nice looking TZ - it looks like you might benefit from a sheet of invisiglass though? That's usually the very first "mod" I make to any machine I get.

Thank you! Yes, invisiglass would be an improvement. I'll see if I can pick one up at the next pinball show.

#11426 37 days ago
Quoted from horseflesh:

That does look good. It's a bit too blue for my taste but the illumination is nice and even.
Ive ya know what might be cool... Using that area for a sign that supports Town Square and the Dead End. Is this confusing?[quoted image]

Another thought I had was some sort of warning light/sign combo in that area tied to the Dead End insert lamp

1 week later
#11427 27 days ago

Picking up a TZ with a bad clock. Back in the club after a few years Without going through everything on here does ingo still make these. Thought I heard they were no longer avail..thx

#11428 26 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Picking up a TZ with a bad clock. Back in the club after a few years Without going through everything on here does ingo still make these. Thought I heard they were no longer avail..thx

I did buy an Ingo clock from the man himself only a few months ago...
works really well, i'm happy with it.
I used Pinside to reach out to him.

#11429 26 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Picking up a TZ with a bad clock. Back in the club after a few years Without going through everything on here does ingo still make these. Thought I heard they were no longer avail..thx

I ordered an Ingo TZ Clock Board a year ago off their website but they quickly refunded my money and told me they were dealing with part shortages which could last quite a while. I re-ordered one 10 days ago and they replied via email that they now have the parts to finish the boards and are working on the soldering. From my research the Ingo board is the best solution and fixes all issues associated with dodgy clock behavior.

#11430 26 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

I ordered an Ingo TZ Clock Board a year ago off their website but they quickly refunded my money and told me they were dealing with part shortages which could last quite a while. I re-ordered one 10 days ago and they replied via email that they now have the parts to finish the boards and are working on the soldering. From my research the Ingo board is the best solution and fixes all issues associated with dodgy clock behavior.

That's great to hear, I put in an order 2.5 months ago and have been patiently waiting.

#11431 26 days ago
Quoted from bakerhillpins:

That's great to hear, I put in an order 2.5 months ago and have been patiently waiting.

link to his site? Thx !!!

#11433 26 days ago

That clock board is beautiful. I replaced mine with whatever remake was available 15 years ago, I almost want to switch to the Ingo!

#11434 26 days ago
Quoted from horseflesh:

That clock board is beautiful. I replaced mine with whatever remake was available 15 years ago, I almost want to switch to the Ingo!

Well if you do, you won't be disappointed.
Bullet-proof board, nice LED-options (blue is very nice)
And Ingo stands behind his product! nice after-sales

#11435 26 days ago

What is the ballpark time to receive one of these after ordering

#11436 26 days ago

I sent Ingo an email via his website to ask if he is shipping to the United States again, I know that was some of the problem he was having last year.

#11437 25 days ago

I have an Ingo clock board installed. Love the color changing LEDs. I have had it 2 years. Works perfect, flawless. Best clock board money can buy. I also used a new clock housing from mantis.

#11438 25 days ago
Quoted from OSUBuckeye98:

I sent Ingo an email via his website to ask if he is shipping to the United States again, I know that was some of the problem he was having last year.

Worth the wait. I work with electronics for many year. I looked it over, before I installed the board. The build quality is a 10. You might have to turn around the color led if it doesn’t lite up. That’s normal for some leds.

#11439 25 days ago

I have not received a reply from Ingo yet. I had another pinsider tell me that he ordered a board yesterday and the transaction was refunded this morning. I would interpret that to mean he is not shipping to the states currently. I’ll just wait patiently and hope it gets sorted out.

#11440 25 days ago
Quoted from OSUBuckeye98:

I have not received a reply from Ingo yet. I had another pinsider tell me that he ordered a board yesterday and the transaction was refunded this morning. I would interpret that to mean he is not shipping to the states currently. I’ll just wait patiently and hope it gets sorted out.

Strange. I see that bakerhillpins ordered one 2 1/2 months ago and is still waiting for it, this other Pinsider you mentioned ordered one recently and then got refunded one day later. That is disconcerting.

I ordered a board 3 weeks ago (I live in Germany) and got a reply from Ingo's email (german-pinball-modular @hotmail.de) that they have the parts and have begun soldering them.

I will remain patient and hopeful that they have resolved their parts issues and we see some boards shipped soon.

#11441 24 days ago

I have not doubt you will get them if Ingo replied. bakerhillpins can you confirm if you are in the States or Europe?

#11442 24 days ago
Quoted from OSUBuckeye98:

I have not doubt you will get them if Ingo replied. bakerhillpins can you confirm if you are in the States or Europe?

Yes, I'm in the states. When I talked with them via email almost 2 months ago, they gave me the option to cancel or wait. I chose wait. It's nice to see that some folks are in communication with him.

#11443 24 days ago

I ordered the Ingo clock board at that start of COVID last year, it took a while but was worth it. Also gave me a set of spare LED’s.
Hang on in there as this is the only one to get if you can. Lovely build quality.

1 week later
#11444 17 days ago

Hi, I'm restoring my first pin, its a TZ. I'm learning something new every day. I'm now in the process of riveting my new plastic kit (DIY press and semitubular rivets). I've noticed that the white backing of the new silkscreen licensed TZ plastic kit is way more thinner than on the original plastics. When riveting the lamp sockets to the plastics I put some felt tape between the socket and the plastic. This helps in case there is some movement. The first one I did it scratched a little with no felt tape. Do you do the same?

#11445 16 days ago

I am still chasing an issue in my TZ .
What size are the connector plugs under the clock.
Are they .1" or smaller?
If smaller, what size are they?

#11446 16 days ago
Quoted from Piso:

When riveting the lamp sockets to the plastics I put some felt tape between the socket and the plastic. This helps in case there is some movement. The first one I did it scratched a little with no felt tape. Do you do the same?

If you get scratches without the protection, sounds like you should stick with it. But instead of felt, maybe you can find or make mylar washers? A transparent protector seems like it would be better.

#11447 16 days ago

Does anyone have any suggested troubleshooting for the diverter gate not resetting? It works fine for a few balls but eventually it’ll get stuck open and the game will proceed with auto-launching everything after that. The gate arm seems to swing pretty freely when I test it manually and continuously snaps back in place, so not sure why it’d be getting stuck mid-game. Any thoughts would be appreciated!

#11448 16 days ago
Quoted from atg1469:

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Be sure no broken wires and your ball trough switches are working right.

LTG : )

#11449 15 days ago
Quoted from atg1469:

Does anyone have any suggested troubleshooting for the diverter gate not resetting? It works fine for a few balls but eventually it’ll get stuck open and the game will proceed with auto-launching everything after that. The gate arm seems to swing pretty freely when I test it manually and continuously snaps back in place, so not sure why it’d be getting stuck mid-game. Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Can you reproduce it in test mode? You can set the coil test for the diverter to repeat so it will just keep cycling it and you can stop it when it sticks to investigate.

Alternately, when it happens can you carefully open the door/remove glass and slowly lift the PF to see what's getting hung up? You don't have to lift it all the way up since it's right down in the corner.

#11450 14 days ago
Quoted from bakerhillpins:

Can you reproduce it in test mode? You can set the coil test for the diverter to repeat so it will just keep cycling it and you can stop it when it sticks to investigate.
Alternately, when it happens can you carefully open the door/remove glass and slowly lift the PF to see what's getting hung up? You don't have to lift it all the way up since it's right down in the corner.

I was able to get the gate to move back to its original position in test mode, but the gate won't open after that. Does that mean the coil is likely bad?! I checked the wires and everything seems intact, so not sure what else could be the issue.

There are 11,498 posts in this topic. You are on page 229 of 230.

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