(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

8 years ago


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#11301 62 days ago

I just lost all my switches on column 2.
Green-brown, J206-1.
This happened somehow when I was swapping coils.
How do I bring the column back?
Test report doesn't mention a short.

#11302 62 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Because I know very little about electronics and that solution was never mentioned when I brought this up earlier.
It sounds more affordable anyway.
How do I choose the right resistor and where do I wire it in?

After some calculating, I see that a 69 Ohm coil at 80 volts is 93 watts. That means a large power resistor would be needed so this is probably not a good solution. Forget I said anything!

#11303 62 days ago
Quoted from Zee:

After some calculating, I see that a 69 Ohm coil at 80 volts is 93 watts. That means a large power resistor would be needed so this is probably not a good solution. Forget I said anything!

Oh.
Got it.

#11304 62 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

How do I bring the column back?

Fix what ever blew on the CPU.

LTG : )

#11305 62 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Hi, Manny. Thanks for responding.
Yes, I've tried bending/rebending/rebending the tang that is part of the trough housing that guides the ball as it's released. I've also tried bending the "roof" tang on said housing downward to cap the ball as it exits, but that tang isn't really long enough influence the exit. My kicker armature is stock and in great shape. I replaced the pivot bracket with a new OEM one from Marco just to ensure I would have as little slop in the kicker motion as possible. There is no binding, nothing out of the ordinary. The tip of the kicker meets the ball at precisely the south pole so it gives it the proper heave. I do *not* wish to bend this kicker arm to make it glance the ball.

Do you have the blue dampening rubber "pad" at the top of the trough exit or could it be missing?

#11306 61 days ago

I am looking for some help here*****.

When I enter any multi-ball mode, the balls lock and fail to eject into the shooter lane. (So zero balls on the playfield after starting a multi-ball).

I can hear the mechanism clicking that places balls into the shooter lane however, no balls are traveling to the mechanism to place balls into the shooter lane.

Just wondering if others have had this issue

What causes this.

How do you fix this problem?

Your help is appreciated

#11307 61 days ago
Quoted from McDoom:

How do you fix this problem?

Check it over. Dirty, need cleaning ? Kicker not hitting the ball dead center ?

LTG : )

#11308 61 days ago
Quoted from McDoom:

I am looking for some help here*****.
When I enter any multi-ball mode, the balls lock and fail to eject into the shooter lane. (So zero balls on the playfield after starting a multi-ball).
I can hear the mechanism clicking that places balls into the shooter lane however, no balls are traveling to the mechanism to place balls into the shooter lane.
Just wondering if others have had this issue
What causes this.
How do you fix this problem?
Your help is appreciated

I'd suggest taking the apron off and then re-create the scenario, this way you'll get to see what is happening and where the issue is

#11309 61 days ago
Quoted from McDoom:

When I enter any multi-ball mode, the balls lock and fail to eject into the shooter lane.

Does the trough work normally before you reach a multiball? Does the outhole kicker move the balls to the right end of the trough? Does the ball-release kicker push balls up to the playfield where they roll to the shooter lane? I'm assuming the answer is yes if you're able to play your game normally before MB begins. You write that the ball-release kicker clicks but no balls are released. This is confusing because the game requires balls for normal non-MB play, so we know the ball-release kicker works. I would go into single solenoid test and select "ball-release"/repeat. That will make the ball-release kicker fire repeatedly. I would also go into switch edges and depress the far-right switch in the trough to be sure it's actuating normally. Your trough has six switches.
From left to right they are outhole; far-left/left/center/right trough; and a proximity sensor. Test all of them in switch edges. Removing the apron first makes this much easier. The proximity sensor (tiny board with an infrared transmitter) will only open if you lay a ball in end of the trough. You can't actuate it with your finger.

#11310 61 days ago

Well, I need to troubleshoot my switch column #2. As I wrote, all of those switches are down and the test report mentions no short. I have scrutinized the wiring/diodes on the involved switches and I see no broken wires and no shorting. I don't know how I injured the MPU. I did some coil swapping but my repairs were (obviously) done with the game off. Will the whole column go down if even a single switch has failed? I do have some replacement micro switches on hand. The only switch on this column that I recently replaced is that of the ball shooter and the game played fine after I changed it. The switch column went down only after I installed a "limiter" in my ball-release kicker in my effort to scrub some of its power. The limiter is a 1/8" medallion cut from a stray plunger laid inside the coil sleeve to effectively shorten the throw of the plunger. Could the limiter be causing a short?

I found the instructions below on Pin-Wiki. Is this my next step or is it wiser to first replace the U20 chip on the MPU?

6.26.4 Switch Matrix Problems
Isolate the problem to the MPU or to the game wiring/diodes/switches

Follow these steps to determine if the switch matrix problem is on the CPU or somewhere in the game wiring.

Remove connectors J206/J207, J208/209 and J212 from the bottom of the CPU (J206 and J207 are electronically the same and J208 and J209 are electronically the same).
Clip one lead of a test jumper to pin one of J207 making sure you don't touch any of the nearby pins on J207.
Power the game on, and enter Switch Edge test (you've left J205 on the CPU so the diagnostics switches still work).
Touch the other end of the jumper to pin one on J209, then pin two and so on. You should see (and hear) the CPU indicate that switches #11, #12, #13, etc. are being "made" as you touch the pins of J209. You should *never* see multiple switches being made.
Move the jumper from J207 pin 1 to pin 2. Re-test to every pin on J209, listening for the machine to read every switch as closed. Continue in a similar manner testing each pin of J207 to every pin in J209.

A diode is not required since the test jumpers directly from a single pin to a single pin. Remember, the purpose of switch diodes is switch isolation. Also, have no fear conducting this test. Unless you connect one end of the wire to high voltage, nothing can be damaged.
C20C7956-2949-4EA4-BC76-746B3F8A462F (resized).jpeg

#11311 61 days ago
Quoted from McDoom:

How do you fix this problem?

are there any balls left in the trough when you achieve multiball?
You should see one ready to be launched when you look in there from the shooter lane.

#11312 61 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Is this my next step or is it wiser to first replace the U20 chip on the MPU?

  1. Is the problem mechanical or electrical? If mechanical go look at the assembly.
  2. Is the (electrical) problem central or peripheral?

Mechanical problems are typically not solved by looking at the electrics. Electrical problems are typically not solved by looking at the mechanics.

Central (board) electrical problems are typically not solved by looking at the peripheral (playfield or wiring) electrical problems.

Since none of the switches in a column are registering that sounds like an electrical problem so you are at step 2. Closely read the Pinwiki instructions and see what you think they are trying to accomplish.

Hints

  1. The Pinwiki tests differentiate central versus peripheral.
  2. If the test shows that all your columns work then you have a peripheral (playfield wiring) problem.
  3. If a column does not work then you have a central (board) problem.

Same deal. You won't find the playfield wiring issue on the board and you won't find the board issue in the playfield wiring. The playfield wiring starts at the connector (J207/J209) all the way to the microswitches or the opto board under the playfield.

#11313 61 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Is the problem mechanical or electrical?

Electrical.

Quoted from DumbAss:

Closely read the Pinwiki instructions and see what you think they are trying to accomplish.

I know what they're trying to accomplish with this test, yes. I just asked if I might throw a new chip in U20 rather than do the jumper dance between J207 and J209. If the column is still out with a new chip, *then* I will do the test. If the column returns with the new chip, I'll know it was the chip and I'll have spared myself the putzy chore of the jumper dance. Besides, the jumper test requires considerable precision because my jumper jaws aren't small enough to grab a single pin and not short to a neighboring pin.

Thanks for your input.

#11314 61 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Do you have the blue dampening rubber "pad" at the top of the trough exit or could it be missing?

As a matter of fact, no, I do *not* have any pad there. There's no hole there to accept a grommet. Is the pad just a square of 1/8" rubber? I have no reference.
Thanks.

#11315 61 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

As a matter of fact, no, I do *not* have any pad there. There's no hole there to accept a grommet.

He's thinking of the later ball trough assemblies which are different than the one in TZ.

LTG : )

#11316 60 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

He's thinking of the later ball trough assemblies which are different than the one in TZ.
LTG : )

Got it.
Thanks.

#11317 60 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Is the (electrical) problem central or peripheral?

It's central.

I replaced the U20 IC chip on the MPU and my switch column has returned.

Big thanks to LTG for supplying me with a replacement chip.

I still need to deal with excessive power of the ball-release coil, but at least I have my switches back. I'm going to try a dual-wind coil like this one. 322 Ohms in the secondary position sounds high enough to give this coil a small fraction of the stock coil's power. I have one in there now that has 69 Ohms of resistance and it's much too powerful. How much power do I lose to the additional 250 Ohms of resistance? What percent? Can it be calculated?
dual.wind.coil (resized).jpg

#11318 60 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

It's central.
I replaced the U20 IC chip on the MPU and my switch column has returned.
Big thanks to LTG for supplying me with a replacement chip.
I still need to deal with excessive power of the ball-release coil, but at least I have my switches back. I'm going to try a dual-wind coil like this one. 322 Ohms in the secondary position sounds high enough to give this coil a small fraction of the stock coil's power. I have one in there now that has 69 Ohms of resistance and it's much too powerful. How much power do I lose to the additional 250 Ohms of resistance? What percent? Can it be calculated?
[quoted image]

How much power do you lose? Assuming your high-power DC circuit is 70 volts, electrically you go from 71 watts down to 15 watts:

Watts = Voltage squared / resistance

As for mechanical power, you'd have to take the linkage and leverage into consideration to get that figure.

#11319 60 days ago
Quoted from Zee:

How much power do you lose? Assuming your high-power DC circuit is 70 volts

The ball-release coil is described as "low-power" in the manual's solenoid table. What is the voltage of such solenoids? Is there any chance my power driver board is supplying high power to this particular solenoid rather than low? I mean, why on earth does my coil blast the ball out of the trough like a Stern machine when other TZ owners describe their ball releases as "leisurely"?

Quoted from Zee:

Watts = Voltage squared / resistance
As for mechanical power, you'd have to take the linkage and leverage into consideration to get that figure.

Thank you. It sounds like I'm scrubbing more than 75% of the coil's power by going to 322 Ohms. That will be helpful. I will try the coil.

#11320 60 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

are there any balls left in the trough when you achieve multiball?
You should see one ready to be launched when you look in there from the shooter lane.

No balls are left in the trough when I achieve multiball (I removed the apron and looked? It’s empty)

The balls are locked and not releasing when multi ball is achieved. What’s my next step in fixing this issue.

(I did a test and the lock seems to function correctly (releases ball during the test).

1C8D6CAA-A8A9-44A4-8AD5-D20D11543D2C (resized).jpegDC80527C-74CE-40D7-982D-A64F23AE8923 (resized).jpeg
#11321 59 days ago
Quoted from McDoom:

No balls are left in the trough when I achieve multiball (I removed the apron and looked? It’s empty)
The balls are locked and not releasing when multi ball is achieved. What’s my next step in fixing this issue.
(I did a test and the lock seems to function correctly (releases ball during the test).[quoted image][quoted image]

Go into the test menu and empty all balls. How many did the game find? I’ve seen balls get trapped in strange places and the game starts acting funny because it is down a ball. The count should be 5 regular and 1 power power.

#11322 59 days ago
Quoted from McDoom:

No balls are left in the trough when I achieve multiball (I removed the apron and looked? It’s empty)
The balls are locked and not releasing when multi ball is achieved. What’s my next step in fixing this issue.
(I did a test and the lock seems to function correctly (releases ball during the test).[quoted image][quoted image]

Have you tested each individual trough and ball lock switch?

You mentioned in the original post when you achieved multiball that the game was trying to kick a ball out, was this from the trough or from the lock?

#11323 59 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Have you tested each individual trough and ball lock switch?
You mentioned in the original post when you achieved multiball that the game was trying to kick a ball out, was this from the trough or the lock?

Thanks, everyone, for the help so far. I’m at the vet right now with the pup. I’ll go through the switches once more when I get back home and report back.

#11324 59 days ago

Ball-release coil voltage, anyone?

As some of you have read, my ball-release kicker punts the ball clear over the diverter and into the shooter lane.

I wondered if my voltage to the coil is screwy so I metered it and the reading is 77VDC. This I believe is standard Bally "high power" voltage not under load. The manual lists this coil as "low power," however. What is standard Bally voltage for a low power coil? And if you don't know, can you tell me where this number might be listed in the service manual? Do I see "50V" in the schematic? If so, why do I meter 77VDC at the coil?

Thanks!
1DC5FAAB-C735-4150-BC99-C4B34EA9DF46 (resized).jpeg97CFCF99-6800-4815-9DBB-8F3918C061FD (resized).jpeg

#11325 59 days ago

Wiring a "Load" Coil in Series: Please Help

In my effort to tame my ball-release coil, it was suggested to me by Steve at The Pinball Resource that I wire a second ("load") coil in series with the game's coil to add resistance and thereby figure out how much resistance will be necessary to attenuate the game's coil sufficiently. This information would help me choose a single coil to replace the stock coil. His method is as follows:

1. Desolder the power lead to the game coil.
2. Use a jumper to jump from that hanging lead to the identical lug on the "load" coil.
3. Use a second jumper to jump from the remaining lug on the load coil to the power lug on the game coil.
4. Lay the load coil on a folded rag laid in the bottom of the cabinet where the coin box ordinarily sits.
5. Power up the game and test the kicker strength.
6. Repeat with other donor coils as necessary until the optimum resistance combination is found. (I have a range of coils of various resistances.)

If I'm careful to avoid shorting the power lead to any part of the game other than the load coil, will this wiring scenario keep me out of trouble? Will it accomplish what I hope it will?

Thanks.

#11326 59 days ago
Quoted from McDoom:

The balls are locked and not releasing when multi ball is achieved.

Oh. That's different. You used the term "trough" to describe the lock. That put us on the wrong trail. You need to troubleshoot your lock.

Take the glass off and go into tests/switch edges. Push three balls, one at a time, into the lock. The display should show each of the lower, center, and upper optos open as each ball comes to rest inside the lock.

Next test the solenoid that expels the balls from the lock. Find it in tests/single solenoid/lock release. When testing solenoids, you must choose "stopped," "running," or "repeat." Choose repeat and then okay until all three balls are expelled, then press okay once more to return to the "stopped" phase.

You wrote that you're hearing a "clicking" in the lock but the balls aren't emerging. That release kicker is tiny and its plunger is small. It's mounted on a bracket that has some adjustability. It's possible that that the plunger is out of position and not kicking the balls properly, despite firing on command.

#11327 59 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Oh. That's different. You used the term "trough" to describe the lock. That put us on the wrong trail. You need to troubleshoot your lock.
Take the glass off and go into tests/switch edges. Push three balls, one at a time, into the lock. The display should show each of the lower, center, and upper optos open as each ball comes to rest inside the lock.
Next test the solenoid that expels the balls from the lock. Find it in tests/single solenoid/lock release. When testing solenoids, you must choose "stopped," "running," or "repeat." Choose repeat and then okay until all three balls are expelled, then press okay once more to return to the "stopped" phase.
You wrote that you're hearing a "clicking" in the lock but the balls aren't emerging. That release kicker is tiny and it's plunger is small. It's mounted on a bracket that has some adjustability. It's possible that that the plunger is out of position and not kicking the balls properly, despite firing on command.

I followed all the steps you listed. Everything seems to work typically during the testing phase.

During gameplay is a different story.

I found this post similar to the problems I'm having, except my balls are stuck in the locking mechanism and don’t release.

5685303C-37AD-4F69-83EE-B8F8E45F6B0F (resized).jpeg
#11328 59 days ago

Not sure if this is the direction I need to go or not.

82EA895F-D334-49CA-BC79-12E36A5381EA (resized).jpeg
#11329 59 days ago
Quoted from McDoom:

Not sure if this is the direction I need to go or not.
[quoted image]

Try recreating the issue and immediately go into switch test mode and see if switches 84 and 85 are open (ie ball detected since they are optos) and 88 is closed. Also none of the trough switches 15, 16, 17 & 25 or the outhole #18 should be closed.

I assume you have 6 balls and that is also what your game is set to - right?

#11330 59 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Try recreating the issue and immediately go into switch test mode and see if switches 84 and 85 are open (ie ball detected since they are optos) and 88 is closed. Also none of the trough switches 15, 16, 17 & 25 or the outhole #18 should be closed.
I assume you have 6 balls and that is also what your game is set to - right?

6 balls are in the game.

I disconnected and reconnected the wires to the “10 opto switchboard” the game behaves the same as mentioned above but now, during multiball, the lock will release the balls about 3 minutes after the mode is started (so no balls on the playfield until the lock randomly decides to release the balls after 3-4 minutes.

#11331 59 days ago
Quoted from McDoom:

6 balls are in the game.
I disconnected and reconnected the wires to the “10 opto switchboard” the game behaves the same as mentioned above but now, during multiball, the lock will release the balls about 3 minutes after the mode is started (so no balls on the playfield until the lock randomly decides to release the balls after 3-4 minutes.

How many balls are staged in the gumball machine when you start a game?

#11332 59 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

How many balls are staged in the gumball machine when you start a game?

I believe it's 3 balls.

#11333 59 days ago
Quoted from McDoom:

I believe it's 3 balls.

Ok - you need to verify that. Here is what you need to do.

1) Remove all balls from the game using the option to do so in test.

2) While the balls are removed toggle over to switch test and take a photo of the results on the DMD and share that with the group.

3) Turn off the game and add the 6 balls back in the game.

4) Turn on the game and let it stage the balls. Pay attention to how many get loaded to the Gumball machine. And report back the findings.

5) Go back into test and look at switch test again. Take a photo of the DMD and share with the group.

One of us will do the same and we can compare the results. It will have to be another pinsider because my TZ is at my vacation house.

#11334 59 days ago

Try recreating the issue and immediately go into switch test mode and see if switches 84 and 85 are open (ie ball detected since they are optos) and 88 is closed. Also none of the trough switches 15, 16, 17 & 25 or the outhole #18 should be closed.

4) Turn on the game and let it stage the balls. Pay attention to how many get loaded to the Gumball machine. And report back the findings.
5) Go back into test and look at switch test again. Take a photo of the DMD and share with the group

I emptied the balls and got 6 balls.

Switches 15,16,17 are open

Switches 84 and 85 are closed

(This is with the machine empty of balls)

Originally a warning to check switch 15 popped up when this all started happening but that warning went away when I disconnected and reconnected the optos 10)

Now check switch 76 is popping up. Here are a few photos. (I will add activity with balls added next)

4261F75B-A249-4886-A838-582218C64894 (resized).jpegCEC6DE72-E921-49FF-B545-47CFF342B670 (resized).jpeg
#11335 59 days ago

I emptied the balls and got 6 balls.

Switches 15,16,17 are open

Switches 84 and 85 are closed

(This is with the machine empty of balls)

Originally a warning to check switch 15 popped up when this all started happening but that warning went away when I disconnected and reconnected the optos 10)

Now check switch 76 is popping up. Here are a few photos. (I will add activity with balls added next)

55B8089E-59FE-427E-9253-84C741013F40 (resized).jpegFA243A78-19DB-4D25-ADD4-F793325AA69B (resized).jpeg
#11336 59 days ago

I turned the game off. I placed 6 balls back in. I turned the game on. (3) balls went into the gumball machine.

Checked switches: 15, 16, 17, 26, 84, 85 (Are all closed.

Switch 76 (mini-playfield exit) is Open

(This is with all 6 balls loaded)

1E3C7321-2506-4BD0-83A4-1305893C182F (resized).jpeg
#11337 59 days ago

Perfect - Can one of you guys with a fully functional TZ repeat the test so we can compare? See post 11333.

#11338 59 days ago
Quoted from McDoom:

I turned the game off. I placed 6 balls back in. I turned the game on. (3) balls went into the gumball machine.
Checked switches: 15, 16, 17, 26, 84, 85 (Are all closed.
Switch 76 (mini-playfield exit) is Open
(This is with all 6 balls loaded)
[quoted image]

Switch 76 is an opto, so best to resolve that otherwise it might screw with your troubleshooting. If you weren't getting that previously then check the connectors you reseated, you could simply have a poor connect on that pin or a cold solder joint.

You mentioned switch 15 also reported an error briefly, so I'd suggest checking that the trough switch is working properly as this might be associated with the issue you are having

#11339 58 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Wiring a "Load" Coil in Series: Please Help
In my effort to tame my ball-release coil, it was suggested to me by Steve at The Pinball Resource that I wire a second ("load") coil in series with the game's coil to add resistance and thereby figure out how much resistance will be necessary to attenuate the game's coil sufficiently. This information would help me choose a single coil to replace the stock coil. His method is as follows:
1. Desolder the power lead to the game coil.
2. Use a jumper to jump from that hanging lead to the identical lug on the "load" coil.
3. Use a second jumper to jump from the remaining lug on the load coil to the power lug on the game coil.
4. Lay the load coil on a folded rag laid in the bottom of the cabinet where the coin box ordinarily sits.
5. Power up the game and test the kicker strength.
6. Repeat with other donor coils as necessary until the optimum resistance combination is found. (I have a range of coils of various resistances.)
If I'm careful to avoid shorting the power lead to any part of the game other than the load coil, will this wiring scenario keep me out of trouble? Will it accomplish what I hope it will?
Thanks.

Steve is having you do what I suggested earlier (power resistor) but in the form of a coil - which can certainly take the load! Some trial-and-error will be required as you noted.

#11340 58 days ago

Plasma ball installed .

IMG_20211010_104635_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20211010_104701_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20211010_104742_HDR (resized).jpg
#11341 58 days ago
Quoted from Staf:

Plasma ball installed .
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice... Where did you get it?

#11342 58 days ago
Quoted from Jecco74:

Nice... Where did you get it?

made it myself . You only need the ball and a converter step down module 12v - 4,5v (AliExpress) . Then make a bracket that goes over thé backboard .

IMG_20211010_181234_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20211010_181301 (resized).jpg
#11343 58 days ago

That is cool!

#11344 58 days ago

Hi Zoners,

I bought my TZ about 5 years ago. The playfield is very nice…I thought it was exceptional until I saw y’all’s pics and realized yours are very nice, too. Mine is a Sun Process and is autographed by Lawlor, Youssi, and Estes under the apron. The guy I bought it from said he was told the playfield was autographed and then re-clearcoated by a well known pinball clearcoater, but I can’t remember his name.

I know nothing about electronics and only recently began doing repairs. I’ve now completely rebuilt the flippers on my Addams Family and have successfully soldered switches, reflowed lamp boards, and a few other minor things.

I’ve read the entire Owner’s Club thread and I’m thinking of mods. In other words, I’m about to Jason the hell out of this forum. Only joking Jason, you know much more about electronics than I do. In fact, your PF mini switch hack saw hack gave me the confidence to soon try the mini switch mod. I don’t like Mickey Mouse, either…and I have a dremel.

I’ll probably end up having to fly LTG, Coyote, and even Manny from Australia to West Texas to repair my rookie mistakes.

I’ve added Cliffy’s to the trough kicker, slot scoop, and the ramp inlane (noticed a small playfield ding there). Last week I removed the backboard and added gumballs to the gumball machine and now I will attempt the following mods:

1. Davi’s 4 flasher door lamp board. Adds to the game.
2. Twister’s mini switch kit. Unclutters the PF.
3. Compy’s Pinvision. It’s so cool and should brighten the game up and I may keep it all incandescent.

Pre-Thanks to all…I know you’ll help me out,
Ditch Digger

1AFCE8A8-A6FD-4680-8F50-5E685822B8E6 (resized).jpeg26205A24-8493-42D4-9577-E0B06A3EF6B4 (resized).jpeg673C2E13-0394-4853-B175-1C2E71A39B6D (resized).jpegACBEA738-E20B-491E-9981-035C076C6F1E (resized).jpegC09D0380-6052-495E-84E1-06A0A382F8DF (resized).jpeg
#11345 58 days ago
Quoted from Ditch_Digger:

I’m about to Jason the hell out of this forum.

Now THAT is funny!

#11346 58 days ago

My clock is LOUD…sounds like a freight train.
Mission: Lube the clock.

I got the smallest Super Lube oil and grease containers. I won’t use much and the applicators are handy. Total approx $7.50 delivered from Amazon. I put oil on the pins with a Q-Tip and grease on all gears (a center-of-tooth stripe around all teeth).

I found one gear difficult to remove. The gear shaft had been marred at some point when someone removed the E-ring…this has roughed up the inside of the plastic gear when it was removed. I didn’t have emory cloth and used steel wool to try to smooth the pin.

The center shaft is a little worn. It’s hard to believe nylon can wear steel, but I guess it can.

I may add another gear and new center shaft to my next parts order if they are available. The gear pins are in pretty tight and I’ll probably get some emory cloth to smooth it instead of replacing. I feel like this clock can get quieter.

*I tried to post before and after videos to show the noticeable difference, but couldn’t figure out how. ☹️

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#11347 57 days ago

A complete rookie, I’m only now truly learning about the menu and settings and such.

By reading this forum, I realize that Google is my friend, but I still have a couple of questions:

1. A. 2.50. 3rd Magnet.
Mine was set to “yes” and I changed it to “no” since I only have two magnets. I’m about to play and assume there will be no change. My guess is this setting is irrelevant if the machine has two magnets. This is correct…correct?

2. A. 2. 51. MB Powerball Detect.
Mine was set to “No”. I just now changed it to “Yes” cuz I figured why heck not! I haven’t played yet and don’t know if I’ll notice the difference. I read the Pinball settings and they set this to “No”. Why would players not want this setting…what’s the deal?

Thanks.

#11348 57 days ago
Quoted from Ditch_Digger:

Why would players not want this setting…what’s the deal?

Game missing powerball or sensor for it at end of ball trough not working ?

LTG : )

#11349 57 days ago
Quoted from Ditch_Digger:

I’m about to Jason the hell out of this forum.

Jason_Jehosaphat You're famous now.

LTG : )

#11350 57 days ago

Which side of this colordmd is the top?

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