Minneapolis, MN
Quoted from LTG:Please post a picture of the top.
That metal plate isn't setting on the coil right.
LTG : )
5D62ECAE-7135-42B0-B292-D4D287A3A7D0 (resized).jpegFB490705-FD20-488C-BA11-A72C54710F38 (resized).jpeg(Topic ID: 63352)
Linked Games
-
Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
Topic Gallery
5D62ECAE-7135-42B0-B292-D4D287A3A7D0 (resized).jpegFB490705-FD20-488C-BA11-A72C54710F38 (resized).jpegQuoted from LTG:Nothing looking bent or out of place.
LTG : )
Thanks for looking.
Melbourne
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Shooter Diverter Assembly Woes: Anemic, But Can't Service/Rebuild
The cute little shooter lane diverter flaps around slackly and sometimes fails to get out of the way when a ball is auto-fired up the shooter lane. I've checked the assembly carefully and it has no obviously loose/worn/failing parts. It appears to use a magnetic pulse to move a plate which in turn turns the shaft, etc. The two set screws that hold the shaft are tight and the shaft is oriented properly in relation to the playfield.
If I lay my fingers gently on the "paddle" in test and let it pulse, it can barely push my fingers aside.
Can this mech be rebuilt or must it be replaced? Ordinarily I do *not* suspect a bad coil when something feels anemic, but perhaps this mech and this coil are different and I should start by replacing this odd little coil.
Ideas?
[quoted image]
The diverter coil has a nub (see first pic) that sits down in the bracket, yet it's more visible on your pic (see 2nd pic) than on my game - is the coil screwed down tightly? Also the coil doesn't look like it's sitting square as if it is slightly loose.
In test mode, does it work properly? Maybe post a video of the behaviour
TZ Shooter Diverter Coil (resized).jpgTZ Shooter Diverter Mech (resized).jpgQuoted from Manny65:is the coil screwed down tightly?
Yes.
Quoted from Manny65:Also the coil doesn't look like it's sitting square as if it is slightly loose.
That's an optical illusion from the angle of the photo. The coil is sitting squarely in the bracket.
Quoted from Manny65:In test mode, does it work properly? Maybe post a video of the behaviour[quoted image][quoted image]
Yes, it works in test, although so gently that you can arrest it with one finger.
I would gladly make a video but the real show happens during/after LITZ when the auto-plunge (and that diverter) gets a workout. That poor little diverter can't keep up in the mode and it completely flubs the post-mode reloading. Pretty much every ball that is auto-plunged collides with the lazy diverter, causing it to go only part way up the Spiral and then trickle back down and drain. This causes yet more confusion for the game. It's rare that, after LITZ, the game will right itself and start the next ball on cue. Perhaps I will try to reach LITZ with the phone in position to record the diverter. That will take some doing. Thanks for your help.
Quoted from Manny65:The diverter coil has a nub (see first pic) that sits down in the bracket, yet it's more visible on your pic (see 2nd pic) than on my game - is the coil screwed down tightly? Also the coil doesn't look like it's sitting square as if it is slightly loose.
In test mode, does it work properly? Maybe post a video of the behaviour[quoted image][quoted image]
I would gladly replace whatever parts of this assembly are available. At first glance in places like Marco, I see only the coil and the Nyliner bushings. It's possible that - as LTG has theorized - the gap between the plate and the coil head is excessive for whatever reason. Perhaps the pocket in the bracket is missized. Perhaps the coil could be shifted forward with the addition of a washer or two between it and the bracket at the mounting screw. For the record though I don't like Mickey Mouse. Adding washers is Mickey Mouse. I will start by buying a new coil and the Nyliner bushings.
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Yes.
That's an optical illusion from the angle of the photo. The coil is sitting squarely in the bracket.
Yes, it works in test, although so gently that you can arrest it with one finger.
I would gladly make a video but the real show happens during/after LITZ when the auto-plunge (and that diverter) gets a workout. That poor little diverter can't keep up in the mode and it completely flubs the post-mode reloading. Pretty much every ball that is auto-plunged collides with the lazy diverter, causing it to go only part way up the Spiral and then trickle back down and drain. This causes yet more confusion for the game. It's rare that, after LITZ, the game will right itself and start the next ball on cue. Perhaps I will try to reach LITZ with the phone in position to record the diverter. That will take some doing. Thanks for your help.
Yep take a video of it in test mode and then another one after LITZ (assuming you are running 9.4H you could simply do a LITZ practice - right?)
Quoted from Manny65:Yep take a video of it in test mode and then another one after LITZ (assuming you are running 9.4H you could simply do a LITZ practice - right?)
I would skip to the 40-second mark.
In test, repeat:
I said earlier that the diverter was working in test, but I was mistaken. It's always done this feeble flutter thing in test. What is this telling me? The coil isn't energizing properly, clearly, but why? The "power" wires to this coil also feed the auto-plunge coil, and that coil seems fine. The power to some of these coils originates at the Fliptronics board. Do I check the power wires to this coil for resistance, too?
Oh, and how do I "practice" LITZ with 9.4H? Can I get there in the service menu? To make this clip I set my game to ten balls and worked to LITZ over fifteen minutes or so.
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:I would skip to the 40-second mark.
In test, repeat:
I said earlier that the diverter was working in test, but I was mistaken. It's always done this feeble flutter thing in test. What is this telling me? The coil isn't energizing properly, clearly, but why? The "power" wires to this coil also feed the auto-plunge coil, and that coil seems fine. The power to some of these coils originates at the Fliptronics board. Do I check the power wires to this coil for resistance, too?
Oh, and how do I "practice" LITZ with 9.4H? Can I get there in the service menu? To make this clip I set my game to ten balls and worked to LITZ over fifteen minutes or so.
1. Why's it trying to load so many balls into the gumball machine after LITZ - it should be only 3. Do you have any issue with the top orbit diverter (directing the ball to the gumball machine)?
2. As for the issue with the shooter lane diverter, the reload function only got confused after the trough kickout coil ejected the ball over the top of the closed diverter into the manual shooter lane (42-43 sec mark of the video). Clearly the game isn't expecting this and it shouldn't happen, so you need to adjust the kickout mech to stop it from launching the ball over the diverter.
3. Weird that the diverter was working fine after LITZ but had an issue in test. Did you happen to do the test video, directly after LITZ sequence? Just wondering if this is similar to flipper fade because that reload sequence after LITZ gave that diverter a fair workout (eg it is overheating). Alternatively it might be a colder solder joint or broken wire potentially causing the intermittent behaviour
4. As to how to practice LITZ - google is your friend (as I couldn't remember myself 
) https://www.google.com/search?q=how+do+I+%22practice%22+LITZ+with+9.4H
Anyway my suggestion would be that you first fix points 1 & 2, and only then see if the issue with the shooter lane diverter still exists
Munich
Hi guys - I have an interesting issue.....
I just replaced the miniplayfield switches.
All is great. But. When I amin switch test and test the lower right mini playfield switch. It registers as switch 26 - trough proximity...
Is that supposed to be switch 46?
I which case I guess I need to follow the cable for that row right?
Quoted from Gingerbloke:I which case I guess I need to follow the cable for that row right?
If it started after you replaced switches. You might have wired one wrong. Every switch in your game is wired the same. Easy to check and compare to other micro mini switches.
White wire and black end of the diode to a lug. Green wire to a lug. Silver band end of the diode to a lug.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:I would gladly replace whatever parts of this assembly are available.
First, I would:
1. Add a little bit of graphite to where the gate arm goes through the nylon bushings, and then if it still has issues,
2. Barely loosen the spring, touches at a time.
On my game that's been used so much, after maybe a year or so, I need to add a little bit of graphite - otherwise the friction from the nylon bushings (OEM, original, have not replaced them) is too great for the coil to draw the gate open fast enough, just like yours there.
Quoted from Manny65:1. Do you have any issue with the top orbit diverter (directing the ball to the gumball machine)?
Not that I've noticed.
Quoted from Manny65:so you need to adjust the kickout mech to stop it from launching the ball over the diverter.
That coil is an AE-26-1200. I would like to replace it with a higher-resistance coil. I'm looking on this site for something suitable:
https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html
How about an AE-29-2000? Would this be about half the power of the 26-1200?
Quoted from Manny65:1.Did you happen to do the test video, directly after LITZ sequence?
No. It acts like that hot or cold.
Quoted from Manny65:1.Alternatively it might be a colder solder joint or broken wire
On the purple power wires or the control wire? These same purple/yellow wires supply other coils in the vicinity, so a bad cold-solder joint on the board would affect all of them, no?
Quoted from Manny65:1.Weird that the diverter was working fine after LITZ but had an issue in test.
I disagree. The diverter struggles more or less with every actuation. It's hard to see in the clip but it gets bashed aside with every auto-plunge.
Quoted from Manny65:1. As to how to practice LITZ - google is your friend (as I couldn't remember myself ) https://www.google.com/search?q=how+do+I+%22practice%22+LITZ+with+9.4H
Thanks. I will look.
Quoted from Coyote:First, I would:
1. Add a little bit of graphite to where the gate arm goes through the nylon bushings
"Graphite"? What kind of product is this, exactly? Is it "dry" lube for bicycles? Is it a liquid that dries to a film?
How about this one?
https://www.menards.com/main/tools/automotive/automotive-accessories/keychains-accessories/graphite-tube-lock-lubricant/701577/p-1444432470287-c-7568.htm?tid=3526078624291395285&ipos=1
Quoted from Coyote:Barely loosen the spring, touches at a time.
Loosen the return spring? How would one do that? It's either hooked on or not.
Quoted from Coyote:On my game that's been used so much, after maybe a year or so, I need to add a little bit of graphite - otherwise the friction from the nylon bushings (OEM, original, have not replaced them) is too great for the coil to draw the gate open fast enough, just like yours there.
That would be lucky if just a dab of graphite at each of those bushings freed the mech. The way it behaves in test tells me there's more to it though. Am I wrong?
Thanks for your input.
Alternate Relay-Coil For Shooter-Lane Diverter?
Is it safe to try a lower-resistance relay-coil in place of the stock shooter-lane diverter relay-coil?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SZ-31-2000-DC
vs.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SZ-33-3000
Is the issue AC vs DC?
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:"Graphite"? What kind of product is this, exactly? Is it "dry" lube for bicycles? Is it a liquid that dries to a film?
How about this one?
https://www.menards.com/main/tools/automotive/automotive-accessories/keychains-accessories/graphite-tube-lock-lubricant/701577/p-1444432470287-c-7568.htm?tid=3526078624291395285&ipos=1
Yes, dry lube. Not a spray.
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Loosen the return spring? How would one do that? It's either hooked on or not.
You, ah, stretch it slightly.
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:The way it behaves in test tells me there's more to it though. Am I wrong?
Coil test always fires ALL coils for a quarter of a second. In-game, the diverter is held on. There is a difference expected here. (Long pulse vs quick pulse.)
Quoted from Coyote:Yes, dry lube. Not a spray.
You, ah, stretch it slightly.
Coil test always fires ALL coils for a quarter of a second. In-game, the diverter is held on. There is a difference expected here. (Long pulse vs quick pulse.)
Got it. Thanks.
I will try the dry lube but I still think my coil is not energizing right.
I will replace it with a coil relay of slightly lower resistance.
Paris
Unless you see an individual piece on Ebay, the full set might be your only option.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-1765-COMP
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Unless you see an individual piece on Ebay, the full set might be your only option.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-1765-COMP
LTG : )
Yes. I already have one but I’m looking for NOS only and it seems like mine has been used till early production so really hard to find an exact replacement. I know it’s not the easy way.
Edit: i’ve sent an email to PPS. We’ll see. Tks.
Is that the way that one was made?
I cannot see how the white is showing if the red was applied first.
Quoted from Mickpat:Does anyone recall the original retail price of a new TZ in 1993?
~$4500
Pinbits 3rd magnet project help needed please.
Need some help on my third magnet install project. I want to be able to test and make sure it all works before putting it all back together and potentially having to take it apart again. Any direction you could provide would be SUPER! I have confirmed that I am running Home ROM 9.4H.
Here's what I've done: installed the pinbits kit using the instructions provided here http://iobium.com/third_magnet_project.htm. The third magnet works when I test it. Challenge I am having is in making sure the third magnet set of optos is working properly.
Challenge: The third magnet set of optos doesn't open/close when I test it under switch #82. If I take the newly installed opto transmitter and move it in line with the right lower magnet receiver, I can get switch 83 to trigger. Likewise if I take the new receiver and move it in line with the right lower magnet transmitter, and get switch 83 to trigger again. So it seems like both of the newly installed opto components work to trigger switch 83 if I move one of the them in line with the other side of the lower magnet opto pair, I just can't get the newly installed upper opto pair to trigger a switch in the switch matrix when I line them up with each other to make sure they are working properly as intended for the third magnet ball.
Any help / clues? I was under the impression that by connecting the optos as described by Pinbits on this page would make it all work. http://iobium.com/adding_the_new_opto_harness.htm
Maybe his design doesn't allow you to test the new opto pair on switch 82? If not, how can I make sure it is working properly?
Quoted from Portkey:Pinbits 3rd magnet project help needed please.
Need some help on my third magnet install project. I want to be able to test and make sure it all works before putting it all back together and potentially having to take it apart again. Any direction you could provide would be SUPER! I have confirmed that I am running Home ROM 9.4H.
Here's what I've done: installed the pinbits kit using the instructions provided here http://iobium.com/third_magnet_project.htm. The third magnet works when I test it. Challenge I am having is in making sure the third magnet set of optos is working properly.
Challenge: The third magnet set of optos doesn't open/close when I test it under switch #82. If I take the newly installed opto transmitter and move it in line with the right lower magnet receiver, I can get switch 83 to trigger. Likewise if I take the new receiver and move it in line with the right lower magnet transmitter, and get switch 83 to trigger again. So it seems like both of the newly installed opto components work to trigger switch 83 if I move one of the them in line with the other side of the lower magnet opto pair, I just can't get the newly installed upper opto pair to trigger a switch in the switch matrix when I line them up with each other to make sure they are working properly as intended for the third magnet ball.
Any help / clues? I was under the impression that by connecting the optos as described by Pinbits on this page would make it all work. http://iobium.com/adding_the_new_opto_harness.htm
Maybe his design doesn't allow you to test the new opto pair on switch 82? If not, how can I make sure it is working properly?
Wow.
That looks like a cool/challenging project.
LTG has a sample TZ with the third magnet, but, to be honest, I didn't really understand what it does and when it does it until I tracked down some tests on YouTube!
You get high marks for tackling the conversion. Good work!
I wish I could help you with the troubleshooting, but my only opto issue on TZ was resolved by simply replacing the left-magnet opto.
Quoted from Portkey:Any help / clues? I was under the impression that by connecting the optos as described by Pinbits on this page would make it all work. http://iobium.com/adding_the_new_opto_harness.htm
Maybe his design doesn't allow you to test the new opto pair on switch 82? If not, how can I make sure it is working properly?
One of your wires is connected to the wrong spot. You have one connected to White-Red instead of White-Orange.
Quoted from Portkey:Any help / clues? I was under the impression that by connecting the optos as described by Pinbits on this page would make it all work. http://iobium.com/adding_the_new_opto_harness.htm
Maybe his design doesn't allow you to test the new opto pair on switch 82? If not, how can I make sure it is working properly?
I have a TZ with the aftermarket 3rd magnet installed (I bought it that way). If you have a specific test you are trying to run, I could possibly try the same test and give you my results. I'm not good with multi meters, but if you are trying some switch matrix tests....
Quoted from SKORR_Arcades:I have a TZ with the aftermarket 3rd magnet installed (I bought it that way). If you have a specific test you are trying to run, I could possibly try the same test and give you my results. I'm not good with multi meters, but if you are trying some switch matrix tests....
Thanks for offering. I just corrected my wiring mistake per Coyote's guidance and the new set of optos works under testing switch #82. So I think I'm off and running and can't wait to put it all back together now and test it live! Will reach back out if I need help.
Thanks again Coyote! Coyote
Quoted from Portkey:Thanks for offering. I just corrected my wiring mistake per Coyote's guidance and the new set of optos works under testing switch #82. So I think I'm off and running and can't wait to put it all back together now and test it live! Will reach back out if I need help.
Thanks again Coyote! Coyote
Honestly, iut is hard to tell the difference between red and orange on those wiring harnesses at times. 
Glad you got it!
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Please tell me where I might look for a sticker like this one.
Thanks.
[quoted image]
1993
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Please tell me where I might look for a sticker like this one.
Thanks.
[quoted image]
Google is your friend
Quoted from Green-Machine:ebay.com link: itm
Google is your friend
Thanks!
Too bad the price is absurd. Guess I will just forget about adding this decal.
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Thanks!
Too bad the price is absurd. Guess I will just forget about adding this decal.
Yes, that price is crazy. Keep looking 
Getting some limp launches out of the auto-plunge lane. Looks like it’s getting caught up on the one-way gate about 1/3 of the way up. Got done with LITZ and it couldn’t get the balls back to the gumball machine. Moved the shooter lane diverter a little to the right as I thought I saw a few of them bouncing off that, but that didn’t solve it, I think it’s the one way gate, maybe not operating as smoothly as it should. Any suggestions or is this problem fairly common? I’m going to check the sticky’s after hitting post so hope I don’t feel stupid 
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Getting some limp launches out of the auto-plunge lane. Looks like it’s getting caught up on the one-way gate about 1/3 of the way up.
I often have this issue, too. The ball is colliding with something. I *think* it's hitting the rubber on the post that separates to the two lanes. That sends it careening/rattling through the lane until it stops near the right magnet and dribbles down. I should also mention that slop in the kicker could contribute to inconsistent launches. I went as far as replacing my kicker arm, pivot bracket, plunger, sleeve, and spring, in an effort to snug things up. I don't think it made much difference.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:I think it’s the one way gate, maybe not operating as smoothly as it should.
I agree that the gate is troublesome. It affects the trajectory more than it should and there's not adjustability in that gate. Mine swings normally but it might be disturbing the auto-plunge and I know it disturbs the manual plunge by steering the ball into that same post rubber.
Coil Swapping: A Report
I'm having real trouble with the ball release kicker and the shooter lane diverter.
The diverter is feeble and can't get out of the way of the auto-plunged balls.
The kicker is too strong and punts the ball *over* the diverter occasionally.
In an effort to remedy these problems, I swapped in alternate coils. The stock diverter coil is a SZ-33-3000, which I replaced with a Z-31-2000. The stock kicker coil is an AE-26-1200 and I replaced it with a 29-2000.
Now the shooter lane diverter works a little better, although certainly not vigorously/precisely. It does move quickly enough to miss being struck by a launched ball. It could be better but I suspect I will just leave it.
Sadly, however, the ball release kicker still punts the ball clear over the diverter during the reload/reset phase after LITZ. I thought the 29-3000 would be much less powerful, but it's not. Why? Do I need to buy yet another coil? Oof!
If you look very carefully at the trough by the ball release, there is a tang that the ball rides along as it's released/kicked into the shooter lane. I wonder if that tang can be bent at all. If I could bend it to direct the ball more flat and less upward I might beat this kicker problem. Is that a terrible idea?
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Coil Swapping: A Report
I'm having real trouble with the ball release kicker and the shooter lane diverter.
The diverter is feeble and can't get out of the way of the auto-plunged balls.
The kicker is too strong and punts the ball *over* the diverter occasionally.
In an effort to remedy these problems, I swapped in alternate coils. The stock diverter coil is a SZ-33-3000, which I replaced with a Z-31-2000. The stock kicker coil is an AE-26-1200 and I replaced it with a 29-2000.
Now the shooter lane diverter works a little better, although certainly not vigorously/precisely. It does move quickly enough to miss being struck by a launched ball. It could be better but I suspect I will just leave it.
Sadly, however, the ball release kicker still punts the ball clear over the diverter during the reload/reset phase after LITZ. I thought the 29-3000 would be much less powerful, but it's not. Why? Do I need to buy yet another coil? Oof!
If you look very carefully at the trough by the ball release, there is a tang that the ball rides along as it's released/kicked into the shooter lane. I wonder if that tang can be bent at all. If I could bend it to direct the ball more flat and less upward I might beat this kicker problem. Is that a terrible idea?
Yep that's what I'd be doing - think I even suggested adjusting the trough mech. Personally I'd be putting the original coil back in
Hi all - I am sorry. I promised details of the light matrix and forgot to post photos…
See some close-ups
Matrix in machine
DF9629C6-EF99-43A7-923D-50211EAD5D68 (resized).jpegF3A3921C-FE8D-4DBF-B3A8-0F03AD8856BA (resized).jpeg
This is the Arduino behind the back box light board. It is attached with Velcro strips, same as the leds
0D0689CE-A128-4278-89C2-31CC9BECF9A7 (resized).jpeg
A close-up when I was testing- you only need to connect 5 cables to 3 terminals
176D8D54-7A26-4243-9EA2-8E2C5B537CB4 (resized).jpeg
I added this 5v transformer rather than burdon the psu. The ac power I spliced into the power line running between the on-off switch and the transformer in the bottom of the cabinet.
22302A34-B333-4438-AED5-3B8B61AE2852 (resized).jpeg
After owning TZ for 9 months, finally made it to LITZ.
I have avoided the "cheat" and adding more balls to the game because i wanted to make it on my own. It is a fun mode.
The game did get a little confused on where the balls were after and shot 2 into the shooter lane.
When the first ball drained, the game killed the flippers as it should and the second ball drained.
Quoted from PinballAir:The game did get a little confused on where the balls were after and shot 2 into the shooter lane.
When the first ball drained, the game killed the flippers as it should and the second ball drained.
I have this issue, too.
Club members here have been helpful.
I swapped in a less powerful coil.
It hasn't helped.
Quoted from PinballAir:The game did get a little confused on where the balls were after and shot 2 into the shooter lane.
When the first ball drained, the game killed the flippers as it should and the second ball drained.
Trough switch stuck closed; likely the left one. So the game dosen't see that second ball out on the field, but in the trough.
Nice looking TZ listed on the Minneapolis CL:
Never to be Repeated!
One-flip Powerfield defeats:
Ball one:
First time on: one flip!
Second time on: one flip!
Third time on: one flip!
Drain.
Ball two:
First time on: one flip!
So, first four trips onto the Powerfield and four single-flip defeats! Imagine!
Maybe some of you veterans do that routinely, but I'm assuming I will never do even two in a row again.
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Never to be Repeated!
One-flip Powerfield defeats:
Ball one:
First time on: one flip!
Second time on: one flip!
Third time on: one flip!
Drain.
Ball two:
First time on: one flip!
So, first four trips onto the Powerfield and four single-flip defeats! Imagine!
Maybe some of you veterans do that routinely, but I'm assuming I will never do even two in a row again.
Congrats! Reminds me of the time I accidentally got a perfect score on level one of Pac-Man. I got every ghost with every power pill, plus all the fruits that appeared. Wish I had captured it on video.
Quoted from Zee:Congrats! Reminds me of the time I accidentally got a perfect score on level one of Pac-Man. I got every ghost with every power pill, plus all the fruits that appeared. Wish I had captured it on video.
Nice work!
I don't really know Pac-Man. I recently saw photos of the hybrid Pac-Man pinball. The symmetrical layout looks pretty cool. In the Virtual version you can see that it affords lots of roll passes.
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
