I thoroughly looked over the coil and diodes are not broken. Can a diode or diodes be bad and how do you check?

Youtube - lift one leg and check with a meter.

Tests - Switch Edge - slowly puch in your flipper buttons one at a time - be sure both optos on each board are reporting on the DMD.

LTG : )

Nice modification! I thought of trimming mine as well and probably will, now that I see the better fit from yours, before I put my new art blades on.

I'll use the bandsaw at my work to do most of the cutting!

Removed and checked diodes. They are good. Right upper flipper opto is not registering in switch edge test. When I go into flipper coil test it has power and holding power. As soon as I go to the diagnostic and settings menu it energizes and as soon as I exit the menu it de energizes. Then when I push start it re energizes again.

Sounds like a shorted transistor on Fliptronics board - check out https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Coil_Locks_On for how to test

Lloyd, I love you, but I have no idea where this came from.
If a diode is bad on the coil, it won't cause the coil to magically energize... The fliptronics board only grounds the hold/power coil if it sees the player press the flipper button (or, gets an address call from the MPU.)

HeavyMetalPoet - go into test mode, and check the cabinet flipper switches. Make sure the optos are clean and being read properly by the game.
Edit: Saw that you did. Your cabinet flipper opto board is bad or dirty. Try cleaning, and if not, replace the opto.

Don't think there are any aftermarket boards? If there are, be interesting to see who offers them.
Anyways, schematics for the board is on page 3-22, "DC Motor Control Assy", and parts are on 2-15. It's mounted on the underside of the playfield, back right area.

Nice work Jason!

I checked and verified my transistors on my fliptronics board were good and they were so I went back to my right interrupter and why it wouldn’t register in switch edge test and realized the back of it was slightly touching the ground braid in the cabinet. Problem solved! Thanks to @ltg, Manny65 and Coyote for your advice and knowledge. Learned a lot of testing procedures during this troubleshooting process!

I've run into it on Addams and TZ. Leg broken on diode. Flipper goes up at start of game. Replace diode. Then it worked.

Since that fixed it. I didn't reason beyond it. I quit when things are working.

LTG : )

That's fair! Was curious if you had come across something I hadn't seen before.

Nice work and thanks for letting us know what the issue was

Hi guys need advice again. I purchased a used dmd to keep as a spare for my Tz but it looks different to what's in my game. So I'm too afraid to just plug it in to test it. Can someone confirm whether this is compatible or not and if not what manufacturer / system it's from. The dmd with the pink bubble wrap around it is the one I just purchased. Thank you

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They're compatible.
Plug and go.

You on;y need to worry if the replacement is a low-voltage LED unit, but in that case, the power plug would not fit.

Thank you. Just tested and it works great

My Slot Machine scoop from Mantis has a smart "wing" on its left side to support the oblong target from behind. That's very positive.
However, it also has sharp edges on its mouth. That's less positive. I worry about striking those edges with the ball, possibly nicking the ball, leading to playfield scratches.
My solution?
The "r'oblong" target! It's just wide enough to block that dangerous scoop edge.
Yeah, it's a little ugly, but the peace of mind it affords is worth it.

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That's awesome!
You solved your issue!
Good work!

You did such a good job modifying your mini playfield bracket - take that scoop back off and file and sand that edge until your're happy with it.

Thanks, Art.
I'm doing this TZ justice. No hacks. No cut corners.
I hope you're feeling better.

Fix for unreliable auto-launch up shooter lane ramp, anyone?

I rebuilt the kicker that auto-plunges the ball up the shooter lane ramp to feed the Gumball Machine, etc., but the ball bricks/rattles through there too often. It won't make it to the top of the orbit where it's diverted to the subway and to the VUK for the Gumball Machine. It just trickles back down the right Spiral lane and drains, causing another ball to be served and auto-launched. The arm for that kicker is unobtanium, but I don't think mine is all that bad. The armature and pivot pin are nearly identical to those of the sling kickers and the V-Pad kicker. I changed the coil sleeve and the plunger/link only. It feels fine. The opto seems fine. It registers in test. I think it's a mechanical thing. The ball is somehow getting launched off kilter, but the alignment of the kicker looks okay. It's possible that the ball is careening right, then kissing the mini-post that separates the two lanes just above the one-way gate. Once it kisses that mini-post bumper, it's over. The ball hasn't a prayer of making it up/around. Do I dare remove that post rubber to give the ball 3mm of additional lane clearance? I've also checked the cradle/scoop at the end of the arm and it's intact and firmly attached.
Thanks.

Hi, Awesome.
Hmm. File that edge, eh? Well, even if I filed it into a perfectly polished semi-circle, it's still an edge of stainless that stands in direct opposition to the path of the ball. It will eventually mushroom, develop a new edge, and scratch the ball. The only "fix" I see is more of a hack, and that would involve bending the leaves outward - a bit I s'pose like the Demigorgon's mouth! I don't like to modify games drastically like that. At that point it's no longer a Slot Machine scoop like everyone else's. Of course, my "r'oblong" target isn't stock, either, but it can easily be swapped out for the stock target when the game is sold. Until then, it allows me to think less about that gnarly scoop.

Whatever lets you enjoy your game more, then that's the best way to do it. Hopefully you will be playing this bad boy pretty soon!

I got those for my friend's TZ that I just shopped out and wasn't happy with their quality. I didn't install them.

..Situation under control. Got a list of testers for this.
Thanks, all.

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I haven't tried the pop bumper rings, but do have the GI-OCD and LED-OCD boards and can say that they work great with the 2 SMD style of LEDs. The "non ghosting" style of LEDs do not work that well with the OCD boards.

I'm using 2-SMD Cool White for the GI, but the Cool, Sunlight and Warm are all excellent and whichever version of white you want to use is a personal choice.

I just bought this board from Pinball life because my PCB board lights are dim, original lights, but works perfectly and was planning on putting it in soon, are the optos improved on this one?

I have a set of PBL's ones -
https://www.pinballlife.com/britecaps-evo-pop-bumper-lighting.html

And if you want, I can sell the three to you at a discount. One was plugged in once, and then unplugged. Me p[ersonally am not a fan of them, so I put them in storage.

If you don't get anyone hitting you up, I would be glad. Can easily disconnect my GIOCD.

This is the king of pop bumper rings:

I have them
In several other games and will install them in TZ when they make an orange one…

The BIGGED thing for me was the cool-white downward-facing LEDs. I used warm-white in my TZ, so the cool-white stood out like a midget at a dwarf conference.

Had I used cool or neutral whites in my TZ, I would have loved them, yes.

I got color-matched tops, so got one Red, Yellow, and Orange, instead of going with warm-white tops.

Yeah - you have the choice - I have all white ones in my STTNG for example because I have purple caps and they aren't available.... The white ones are damn bright but you can dial them down with the resistor dial so that it looks good - but the coloured versions look better - the LED's merge more into the pop bumper visually - and its more subtle.
There are various suppliers and the company I use hasn't made an Orange version yet. My TZ is set up in Cool white so I am OK with the downlighters...

The only other game I have without is Whirlwind - When I add the Halo lights, I tend to go whole hog and swap out the entire pop bumper plastics with clear coloured pieces - and Whirlwind has 6 pop bumpers... this could be a little bit too much...

Here 2 examples: sttng with white leds the one on the left is at around 50%
Royal rumble with Red ones at full power I think.

The camera make all look way brighter than in reality…

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Oh - I forgot - here’s a quick view of the entire machine: nearly finished with the playfield work.. hallmark Romulan and Klingon ships are in my table now - awaiting resistors so I can finish soldering..

And I need to polish the top half of the play field… then it’s on to the boards to fix the 5v issue…

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Damn.. Now I look at it - also the target decals... The Borg ship is actually dark grey but looks pretty black here. hmm need to think about that. But it is cool because I find it disappears until the flashers go off

D

Yep - good choice. Just remember to adjust the brightness to your liking before you screw everything down!!

Road Show with pinball life bright caps.

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I love the look of the EVO bright lights from Pinball Life. I have done them on all of my machine's. Color match the pop bumper caps to the color I install. Also like the down light "cool blue" lighting the pop bumpers bases. I use this same LED'S color "cool blue" throughout my GI's in the machine's along with some color LED'S. Not too much color GI's, but enough in my opinion that looks good.
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That is an awesome collection my friend!!! The caps look great.