The later versions have ball save on all 3 balls.

And you can have a practice at playing LITZ as well as pausing the game while the ball is cradled.

How do you set the ball save for all balls? I’m running the 9.4 H chip but was unaware of this setting.

Thank you,

According to http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/roms/twilight.html ball save was added in L4 - "Added a new adjustment to allow ball savers beyond ball one. FREE RIDE TIME (A.2 27) must be set to non-zero for this to be enabled.". Not sure if that is the only setting you need, as my machine isn't operational atm

I am pretty sure that is it.

Manny65 is your game broken or apart for cleaning?

1. Two people needed.
2. Pull PF forward so it locks into place.
3. Pivot up so it's at a 75-degree angle. With each person gripping the back of the playfield (NOT the back board, but the PF where the back board meets the playfield) use your other hand to press that hood (arrow) in towards the playfield.
4. This will create an opening for that pivot bolt to slide back up - and once free, the playfield will try to *drop down* into the cabinet. (Why your other hands are back there!)
5. Lower playfield downward until the pivot bolt is free of the latch (the arrow part), then angle PF back towards back of cabinet so that the latch won't catch, and then lift up and out.

I posted it here earlier, not sure why I never sent it to the IPDB. But this will help. You have two settings - Free Ride Time & Last Free Ride. The former is how long the ball saver is on. The latter is the last ball in which the ball saver is available.

tzman94h_1.3.pdf

Awesome!! Thank you

Ah yes I had in the back of my mind there was a 2nd setting you needed - thanks for jumping in and correcting it.

Awesome adjustments update, definitely saving that one!

Help needed:

In my regular multiball, when my machine drains the first two balls my flippers die and then the last ball that should be still be in play drains.

I changed the drain trough switch to a brand new one. I’m not sure what else it could possible be, all switches are working. It’s like the machine just loses track and thinks an extra ball drained.

I use the home rom. I just turned off the Litz cheat on the home rom, it didn’t do it after I turned it off…but then I turned it on and it worked fine again…so it was just random. I can’t imagine what is the issue and I’m still testing and sometimes it does it and sometimes it doesn’t. Thoughts? Gremlin?

Thanks.

Ball trough have ball marks on it?

Here is a photo of it, I think I’m missing the wire form that stops the balls from rolling back. I ordered a part from Marco, we will see if that is the issue. 07CC55EA-B40C-4284-BEBC-02513DCE23B6 (resized).jpeg

It would be a trough switch, not the outhole switch.
Good test would be to go into Gumball Test mode, and do a continuous cycle, watching the four trough switches. If I were to guess, your left trough switch (#17) is acting up or sticking.

Older style ball trough. Marks ( divots ) common on newer ball troughs with opto boards.

LTG : )

Or hit twice with ball bouncing back because of missing wireform.

LTG : )

This is what I think. I changed out the 17 yesterday and it didn’t fix it. I will report back once I have the wireform in from Marco. I really hope that’s it.

No, it won't -
The game will START bonus countdown when the ball hits the trough switch. However, the game will not kill the flippers until a trough switch is closed for about a second to indicate there is really a ball (the correct number of balls) are in the trough.

If the wireform is gone, the ball will bounce back to the outhole. In NORMAL game - not multiball - it'll start the bonus countdown but not kill flippers. If, after ~15seconds, the trough switch is not seen as being closed for the ~1 second, the game will display the score and act like the ball is still in play until the trough switch is closed. This is to prevent the game ending with an intermittent issue with the trough switch.

In Multiball, with one ball back still out in the playfield, if the ball bounces out of the trough back into the outhole, it just won't end multiball until that debounce of ~1sec is seen on the trough switch.

Hello, does someone know what is this ROM « PSD4 » is ? Is it the same as P4? It seems to bas been used for exported games. It seems there is also a PSD2.
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Hmm, this is certainly worrisome. I was really optimistic I found the issue and this part from Marco would address it. I’ll give the #17 another look. I’ll report back.

Not true: in L5 you could only have ball saving on first ball. Tried to have the saver for ball 2 and other balls, but I couldn't set the option, and I had a pinmame ROM running on my PC to check the options, definitely missing that option.

Never understood the story behind this L5, no changelog, no knowing it existed before gathering my TZ in 2003...

If I go into the menu and just put extra balls to just one, I still can get more than one.
Is there a way for me to set it up for just one extra ball a game?

Good luck.. I've have a lot of trough issues with my TZ since the mid-90's, and with Ted's help back when he was doing 9.4H, learned a lot about how (and why) the code handles ball trough switches. To this day, I will still have issues - I even have my little wire gate in place, and somehow I get bounce-outs from the trough into the outhole.

I really appreciate any advice. My TZ is really very nice, but this issue has plagued it for about a year or so and has gotten steadily worse. Now it is basically 80% of the time when in multiball.

Ahh I’m just parroting clay really

Thanks for any help. Some donkey before me used wire nuts instead of molex to wire the transformer. Lame.
I’m trying to put these transformer wires back to its original molex and don’t know which goes in which. Can anyone help me understand what to do to get it back correctly? Anyone have a pic of theirs correctly wired?

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Look on page #1 (PDF page 3) of the WPC Schematic Manual (16-9473-1). The transformer connections and all are spelled out there, as well as adjustments for low-line or other markets.

Anybody in the states (international shipping sucks right now) making/selling these mods nowadays?

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The mini playfield lamp is available at Pinball Decals: https://www.pinballdecals.com/TwilightZoneLampPage.html. The slot machine I have seen on Ebay, but the quality is not the same and the slot wheels do not turn when the ball goes through. A few posts ago they discussed this. Hope this helps....Mike

I’ve only had my twilight a short time and have really enjoyed it so far. Frustrating as it is, I really love playing that one more game. As far as I know everything is working perfectly but one thing.

My question is, my game came with scratched up and discolored power ball, possibly original? I bought a new shiny white one from pinball life. Now, the game only sometimes recognizes the power ball. Is there an adjustment or test for a power ball? Possible Board issue? I looked at the test menu and didn’t notice anything specific to the power ball.

Before, 80% or more when the ceramic ball was in the shooter lane, the dmd would react. With the new ball, it seems to only react once in the subway, sometimes. Not sure why the new ball isn’t registering. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you!

It has no way to recognize it. It detects metal. So if switch before and after get hit and not metal sensor triggers- POWERBALL !

LTG : )

Okay, I appreciate the thorough instructions, but, again, is it necessary to engage the pivot-lock?
It seems like you have do some death-defying hoisting if you do engage the lock.
Why not just draw the PF *partially* out and lift it out when it's more or less level? No need to draw it out entirely and engage that mech. What am I missing?

If youre talking about this one, the slot wheels do turn when the ball goes through. It also lights up when the slot or super slot is lit.

You can, but the issue I ran into is that if you don't pivot the field up enough, you can't lift it up high enough to clear the latches: The back board and ramps hit the underside of the cabinet under the backbox.

By pivoting it up higher, it allows clearance.

Making some progress. I hoped to have this wrapped up and delivered to my friend this weekend (fingers crossed). Quick question, he bought the Comet pinball light kit complete with upper PF star post lights. Has anyone installed these? If so where did you run their lines through and to?

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Ok, thank you for all the searchable stuff on this pin on pinside. With new knowledge on how this pin works, I went through tests, and verified the sensor is aiming at the balls, not the trough. Reseated the connectors and verified the Light on small board lights up when a metal ball is present and not when the ceramic or no ball is present. Now all is well with the game! Powerball works perfect!

I did not use any kits but did light my star post lights. I love the Comet matrix stuff. I used different extensions and splitters to run everything neat as I could under the upper pf. Some wires had to go down the side of the upper pf but you can use black heat shrink to make the wires less visible. I have everything connecting to one connector under the pf for easy removal.

I've installed Comet's star-post lights on a few games. You need to tap into a GI string using one of their "Quick Connects":

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/quick-connects

I suggest plugging it into the socket just beneath the lower-left corner of the mini-PF. There are two there. Join the wires from the two star-post lights to a 2-into-1 splitter and from there to the Quick Connect. You might need a 6" extension wire to reach your Quick Connect from your splitter. All of that should tuck neatly under your mini-PF's carboard underside panel.
What color star post did you decide on? I believe clear with clear rubbers is fairly common when using star post lights on TZ's mini-PF, but blue star posts look dope there, too, for sure.

Thanks for your thoughts/experience.
Just seems like you can get a hand down behind the backboard when the PF is partially drawn out of the cabinet and just lift. Get your buddy on the front end and up/out she goes!

LED OCD Woes:

Anyone here with both OCD boards installed?
I just installed a set in my TZ and immediately I have issues.
All of my switches, including optos, are out.
No GI in the clock or coin door or Start buttons.
Sent closeup photos to LED OCD and they said install looks okay.
Double checked all connectors and ribbon cables.
Kit says plug the GI board's harness into game's GI harness, but that means depowering a ton of stuff. (See photo.)
Suggestions sought.

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Off the top of my head...did you install the ground on the gi board?
Nvm... I see it now...check ribbon connectors are seated correctly? Nothing here should affect your switches matrix, but a bad ribbon connection...that's all sorts of crazy

Hi. Thanks for your input.
Blunder discovered:
I had J106 in J107 (same key and pin count) and J108 in J109 (same key and pin count). So, I have my switches back.

Clock GI Troubleshooting:

(I don't know that the clock face is technically part of the game's GI, but it seems to be on steadily when the game is on, so I'm including it.)

Please tell me how to troubleshoot my clock's GI. In test, you have the chance to watch the hands move forward or backward, slowly or quickly, but no chance to test the SMD's in the clock's face. Also, there is no "clock" lamp in the single lamp tests - more evidence that its lighting belongs to the GI. The clock's wiring harness is a bulky thing and may have two or more connectors. Whatever the case, they are plugged in, but without the chance to ask for "help" when checking its lamp in test, I can't identify which wires/connector feed the lights. I'm assuming the harness supplies power to the board and it in turn powers the SMD's in the face. I had the clock out for the duration of the teardown, not surprisingly, but its lighting worked when I first got the game back together. The change occurred after the installation of the OCD boards. If the board is fried, why do the clock's hands work fine in test?

Ideas sought.

Manual has the pinouts for the clock board connectors.

If the clock works and no GI. I'd concentrate on the playfield GI connector lower left corner area of your driver board.

Wiggle it, see if they come back on.

LTG : )

Inside cover of the manual, under "General Illumination" - #3: Clock & Insert.
('Insert' is what the light board is called behind the translight, the backbox. So, the Clock, and part of the backbox.)

Hi. Thanks for the ideas.
By "clock board" are you referring to the 8 Driver PCB Assembly? I see its pinouts in the manual but nothing related to lighting apart from flashers. It does not appear that the clock's GI originates here.
As for PDB GI connectors, J119, J120, and J121 are all plugged into the OCD board and are no longer on the PDB. I reseated them all to test. No change.
It seems unlikely that *all* of the clock's circuit board SMD's are fried. Power must be interrupted. I would still like to use my manual to see just what wires carry GI power to the clock face, but I'm not finding it.

Ah! Thank you.
J121-3 and J120-3 if I'm reading that correctly. These are now connected to the OCD board. Guess I need to ask LED OCD again.

Try reverting. Return it all to stock. (Move plugs back to PDB, and down by transformer, reconnect to original harness.) See what happens.

All right. I'll work on that. Thanks.
One more thing:
Looking in the manual for the PDB pinouts shows "Yellow, return GI to playfield" for both J120-3 and J121-3. That doesn't help me find wires carrying voltage to the clock's SMD's - or does it? I'm confused.

No. Board inside the clock. Page 3-18 in the manual.

LTG : )