(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

8 years ago


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There are 11,508 posts in this topic. You are on page 216 of 231.
#10751 4 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Jump the purple wire. It may have a break internally you can't see.
LTG : )

You're telling me the wire could well be broken despite the continuity? Not sure how I would safely jump violet wire.

#10752 4 months ago
Quoted from Gingerbloke:

If you have a good connection and the continuity test isn’t making a noise - jump the cable and see it this fixes it - the Purple cable could well be broken in the cable.

Thanks for your input. I have continuity - and thus a "beep" - when measuring.

#10753 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

You're telling me the wire could well be broken despite the continuity?

The meter is on zero. If you have continuity, jumping it won't make it any better.

LTG : )

#10754 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Developments:
Magnets:
I brought my mini-PF to Lloyd's and connected it to the harness in his game. Switches, opto, and lamps: yes. Magnets: no. Does anything in this photo jump out at you? I have continuity from the main magnet connector to each magnet connector (violet and violet/white). Remember, my Spiral magnets work, and I already tested my 8-high power driver- and power-driver boards in Lloyd's machine. Is it a grounding issue? I assume that if the the mini-PF weren't grounded properly the switches, opto, and lamps wouldn't be working - but they *did* work in my test swap. It still seems so unlikely that *both* magnets have somehow failed. I mean, I would expect a magnet to fail about as often as a standard coil - which is to say rarely if ever.
Lamps:
I brought my ailing lamp boards to Lloyd's and they work fine in his machine. I guess I have to clean my connectors somehow.
Flippers:
I borrowed Lloyd's Fliptronics board and installed it in my game. Flippers worked normally. I then put my own board back and they did not. Lloyd's inspection of my board pointed to the bridge rectifier - which he then graciously replaced - but it didn't revive the board.
Thoughts?
Thanks.
[quoted image]

Have you Ohm tested your magnets? Sorry if I missed it. You should be able to tell instantly if your magnet coils are good. They do fail. They should test at about 4.5 Ohms. Just set your meter to Ohms and place the leads on each wire running to the coil.

#10755 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Have you Ohm tested your magnets? Sorry if I missed it. You should be able to tell instantly if your magnet coils are good. They do fail. They should test at about 4.5 Ohms. Just set your meter to Ohms and place the leads on each wire running to the coil.

Thanks for the suggestion.
Both are pulling 5 Ohms apparently.

E5B6E454-9300-4CC9-8132-B3E18E832488 (resized).jpeg
#10756 4 months ago

The magnets are controlled by J124 pin 1 / 2 and J109 pin 5 / 7. How do they look? Q24 and Q26 are the control transistors. Check those out too.

#10757 4 months ago

How do you know the mini playfield magnets aren’t working? They don’t work in test or they don’t work in actual game play? There is an opto that gets tripped when the ball goes to the mini playfield in game play. If that isn’t working your magnets won’t. Check out that opto in the switch test.

#10758 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

The magnets are controlled by J124 pin 1 / 2 and J109 pin 5 / 7. How do they look? Q24 and Q26 are the control transistors. Check those out too.

I will look, but don't forget I put my PDB in Lloyd's TZ and his magnets worked fine.

#10759 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

How do you know the mini playfield magnets aren’t working? They don’t work in test or they don’t work in actual game play? There is an opto that gets tripped when the ball goes to the mini playfield in game play. If that isn’t working your magnets won’t. Check out that opto in the switch test.

Magnets don't work in test or in gameplay.
Opto and switches work fine in test.

#10760 4 months ago

Sorry, just looked at the manual. It is switch 44 (not a opto). Make sure that is working on your game.

#10761 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Sorry, just looked at the manual. It is switch 44 (not a opto). Make sure that is working on your game.

Thanks for the suggestion.
That entry switch registers in test.

#10762 4 months ago

Are you sure fuse F103 is OK? Double check it and the fuse clips with the multimeter.

#10763 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Are you sure fuse F103 is OK? Double check it and the fuse clips with the multimeter.

I have continuity end-to-end on all the PDB fuses and from each fuse to its clips.
Again though, I tested my power driver board in Lloyd's TZ and his magnets worked.

#10764 4 months ago

Mini-PF magnets are now working!

I know you all like a good puzzle so I will give you two clues. It was with these two clues alone that I came to the solution.
Both are attached here.
Good luck.
A virtual Snickers bar for the first to get it!
Hint: ignore the meter.

F28FDAF7-B2E7-4E8E-939A-5378ED8B73EC (resized).jpeg

002FA919-34D4-46E6-9D8F-7167C1BFC301 (resized).jpeg

#10765 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Developments:
Magnets:
I brought my mini-PF to Lloyd's and connected it to the harness in his game. Switches, opto, and lamps: yes. Magnets: no. Does anything in this photo jump out at you? I have continuity from the main magnet connector to each magnet connector (violet and violet/white). Remember, my Spiral magnets work, and I already tested my 8-high power driver- and power-driver boards in Lloyd's machine. Is it a grounding issue? I assume that if the the mini-PF weren't grounded properly the switches, opto, and lamps wouldn't be working - but they *did* work in my test swap. It still seems so unlikely that *both* magnets have somehow failed. I mean, I would expect a magnet to fail about as often as a standard coil - which is to say rarely if ever.
Lamps:
I brought my ailing lamp boards to Lloyd's and they work fine in his machine. I guess I have to clean my connectors somehow.
Flippers:
I borrowed Lloyd's Fliptronics board and installed it in my game. Flippers worked normally. I then put my own board back and they did not. Lloyd's inspection of my board pointed to the bridge rectifier - which he then graciously replaced - but it didn't revive the board.
Thoughts?
Thanks.
[quoted image]

Magnets - looks like you have the left and right magnet connections switched
Lamps - check the connectivity of the specific wires to ensure there are no breaks. It might just need the connector re-pinned
Flippers - didn't you originally successfully test your fliptronics board in Lloyd's machine? It would make sense to me that the fliptronics board was the issue given jumping the J905 pins didn't show any switch activation

#10766 4 months ago
Quoted from SuperMica:

Pinball Resource has reinforced switches for TZ.

Quoted from LTG:

https://mantispinball.com/product/twilight-zone-slot-machine-scoop/ it has a tab protruding from the side to stop the target.

Love that there are options! Thank you very much!!!

#10767 4 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:Magnets - looks like you have the left and right magnet connections switched

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#10768 4 months ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Love that there are options! Thank you very much!!!

Most of the major suppliers carry the reinforced standup target (in case you are having to purchase other things) although PB Resources were the cheapest when I looked recently

#10769 4 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Magnets - looks like you have the left and right magnet connections switched

So, they did work just not for the correct switch?

#10770 4 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

So, they did work just not for the correct switch?

No.
The magnets didn't work at all until the connectors were switched back to stock - violet/white to right.

#10771 4 months ago

Developments:

Lamps:

I'm looking at the lamp matrix in the manual and surprised to see all the lamps that are out reside in a single row - #7. Legend reads Red-Violet, J133-8, Q84. That pin resides on the PDB. Looks fine. I will check continuity to the lamp board connectors.
Okay, I do *not* have continuity between the lamp connector at the PDB and the connector at the lamp board. Do you suspect a broken wire or a failed transistor? Is Q84 the transistor in question? How can it be tested?
Oop!
Found this broken wire near a dead socket and - lo' and behold! - it's red/violet.
Now to figure out how it connects to that socket. Does it go to the banded end of the diode?
Done.
All sockets happy!

8093D3A0-8884-4C71-8230-06D08BA83332 (resized).jpeg

#10772 4 months ago

Hey guys would like to share a couple of photos of my Tz topper I'm working on. It is permanently lit but flashes during timed modes. Looks neat in person and the yellow is very close to the translite pyramid. It also has a blue light coming from the front eye but my photo doesn't show it well.

IMG20210722173327 (resized).jpgIMG20210722174925 (resized).jpg
#10773 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Now to figure out how it connects to that socket. Does it go to the banded end of the diode?

Compare to your other sockets. All wired the same. Only the stripes on the main color are different.

LTG : )

#10774 4 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Compare to your other sockets. All wired the same. Only the stripes on the main color are different.
LTG : )

Thanks.

#10775 4 months ago
Quoted from embryon:

Hey guys would like to share a couple of photos of my Tz topper I'm working on. It is permanently lit but flashes during timed modes. Looks neat in person and the yellow is very close to the translite pyramid. It also has a blue light coming from the front eye but my photo doesn't show it well.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Wow!
Super dope!
Great job!
Your translite is beautifully lit. LED's? Is so, what shade of white?
Or is that a CPR mirrored backglass?

#10776 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Now to figure out how it connects to that socket. Does it go to the banded end of the diode?

Two wires. Red with violet stripe. Both go to the same lug. For shoot again lamp.

LTG : )

#10777 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Wow!
Super dope!
Great job!
Your translite is beautifully lit. LED's? Is so, what shade of white?
Or is that a CPR mirrored backglass?

Thanks, translite all leds except the blinking globes. All leds are cool white and super bright except around twilight zone, these are cool white but quite dim leds.

#10778 4 months ago
Quoted from embryon:

Thanks, cool white and super bright except around twilight zone, these are cool white but quite dim leds.

Interesting. "Super Brights"? Do you mean simply 2SMD?

#10779 4 months ago

Rocket Kicker Warning?

My Rocket kicker will fire the instant the switch is closed.
I've noticed on other TZs there is a pause, then a strobe warning, and *then* the kicker fires.
My game ROM is REV-L2 I believe.
Do I need L5 instead?

#10780 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Rocket Kicker Warning?
My Rocket kicker will fire the instant the switch is closed.
I've noticed on other TZs there is a pause, then a strobe warning, and *then* the kicker fires.
My game ROM is REV-L2 I believe.
Do I need L5 instead?

The two links below show the ROM revision history for TZ.

http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/tz_romrev.txt
http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/tz94h.php

Review these documents and pick which ROM best suits your needs. I have been running game rom U6 L9.4H since 2007 on my TZ and it works great.

Gord

#10781 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

The magnets didn't work at all until the connectors were switched back to stock - violet/white to right

Hmm.

#10782 4 months ago

Please tell me where this mini-PF corner-protector mod is available online. If it was made by a Pinsider, does anyone recall who that was?

corner.protector.cropped (resized).jpg
#10783 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Please tell me where this mini-PF corner-protector mod is available online.

Cliffy : http://www.passionforpinball.com/tz.htm

LTG : )

#10784 4 months ago

Ah! Cliffys! I should have guessed.

Thanks, LTG.

#10785 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Interesting. "Super Brights"? Do you mean simply 2SMD?

No I think they are only one smd but bright

#10786 4 months ago

Translites:

I just cleaned my translite. It was more cream colored than white on the backside. Yellowed with age, I guess. Lately I've been lusting after the CPR mirrored backglass but didn't want to blow the $300+ to get it. So, I figured I would do my level best to clean/revive my original translite first. I wasn't sure how to attack it. I separated it from the glass and laid it face down on the bench covered with a cotton tarp. I tried 409. Barely touched it. Also IPA:H20. Nah! Then I tried Crazy Clean. Only slightly better. Then I tried P21S Paint Cleanser Wax Prep. It's basically a gentle polish with some kind of detergent. That was as aggressive as I dared go. I rubbed it in, then wiped it off with a damp micro fiber rag. I did bring the translite around until it was somewhere between cream and white, but it sure wasn't bleach-white. I have bought cool-white 1SMD bulbs for the backbox from Comet and I hope the newly cleaned translite will look its best ever when finally installed. I will take a photo then. I'm a sucker for real backglasses. Love the mirrored accents and the vibrant color!

#10787 4 months ago

Displays:

I'm really on the fence about a ColorDMD. I mean, sure, I would love to have one, but they are $450, shipped. Oof! I saw a clip on YouTube of a color display set to B&W. At first I thought it foolish, but then I realized that even a monochrome display in black/white is much more appealing than one in red! If I do buy a ColorDMD, I will certainly give the B&W look a try. I don't actually like many of the other B&W mods for TZ - artblades, for example. Yeah, the show aired on TV before there were color sets and all, but TZ's playfield is ablaze with color and laying B&W anything beside it looks...well, awful. How many of you ColorDMD owners have yours set to B&W?

#10788 4 months ago
Quoted from embryon:

No I think they are only one smd but bright

All right. Got it. From what vendor? Did you buy "blinking" LED's for the blinking bulbs? Are they plug-and-play or do they flicker without an OCD board?

#10789 4 months ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

The two links below show the ROM revision history for TZ.
http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/tz_romrev.txt
http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/tz94h.php
Review these documents and pick which ROM best suits your needs. I have been running game rom U6 L9.4H since 2007 on my TZ and it works great.
Gord

Hi, Gord.
Thanks for the helpful links.
That L9.4H looks great. I don't know that I would use very many of those additional features, but it's just $12, so I will buy/install it just to be sure I have the latest re: that Rocket kicker. I was intrigued by the sound ROM's, too (who doesn't want the best callouts and sound-FX?), but I found an old post here pointing out that the L2 sound ROM adds very little. So, I will skip that one.

#10790 4 months ago

I'm with you; it makes no sense. I assumed that switched connectors would just mean reversed flipper controls. I did *not* imagine it would disable the magnets entirely!

#10791 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I did *not* imagine it would disable the magnets entirely!

Depends on how it's wired. Right flipper button opto board has to be plugged in for the left flipper button opto board to work. The left one gets it's power from the right.

LTG : )

#10792 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

All right. Got it. From what vendor? Did you buy "blinking" LED's for the blinking bulbs? Are they plug-and-play or do they flicker without an OCD board?

The blinkers are incandescents. I'll try to take a photo of the backboard today or tomorrow. The blinkers were purchased years ago. Led version I foumd on rtbb.com.au who buy stuff from pinball life

#10793 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Please tell me where this mini-PF corner-protector mod is available online. If it was made by a Pinsider, does anyone recall who that was?
[quoted image]

That picture is from my machine xD
But got the small metal protector indeed from Cliffy

#10794 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Translites:
I just cleaned my translite. It was more cream colored than white on the backside. Yellowed with age, I guess. Lately I've been lusting after the CPR mirrored backglass but didn't want to blow the $300+ to get it. So, I figured I would do my level best to clean/revive my original translite first. I wasn't sure how to attack it. I separated it from the glass and laid it face down on the bench covered with a cotton tarp. I tried 409. Barely touched it. Also IPA:H20. Nah! Then I tried Crazy Clean. Only slightly better. Then I tried P21S Paint Cleanser Wax Prep. It's basically a gentle polish with some kind of detergent. That was as aggressive as I dared go. I rubbed it in, then wiped it off with a damp micro fiber rag. I did bring the translite around until it was somewhere between cream and white, but it sure wasn't bleach-white. I have bought cool-white 1SMD bulbs for the backbox from Comet and I hope the newly cleaned translite will look its best ever when finally installed. I will take a photo then. I'm a sucker for real backglasses. Love the mirrored accents and the vibrant color!

I’ve had a few mirrored back glasses from CPR and the nicest one was the TZ one, the old one can go on a wall. I did have an Indiana Jones one but didn’t fit it as I didn’t like it, wish I did now as I would have had the old translite on the wall.

2F6FF329-FC26-49BC-B401-09BAE2A69B4F (resized).jpeg
#10795 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

All right. Got it. From what vendor? Did you buy "blinking" LED's for the blinking bulbs? Are they plug-and-play or do they flicker without an OCD board?

Some photos

IMG20210724195237 (resized).jpgIMG20210724195248 (resized).jpgIMG20210724195302 (resized).jpg
#10796 4 months ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Just added a nice Twilight Zone to my small collection. Playfields, Ramps, and plastics are all perfect. I already ordered the CPR mirrored backglass and flipper fidelity speakers for some nice pop. Nice to have great Pat Lawlor games next to each other.
Only issue I have since bringing it home yesterday (didn’t happen when I looked at the game) is the left lower flipper sometimes doesn’t have the power to move the ball as it should. In switch test mode, it’s fine, all three other flippers work great. When I push on the flipper with the glass off, sometimes it struggles to move my hand. The other three flippers are all great.
Than at times it’s perfect.
Could this be a flipper opto board or flitronic board issue? Will have to check voltage, but if the upper left is fine, and the others are fine,wouldn’t that suggest it getting the proper volts? Will take out the fliptronic board out and check for cold solder joints. Maybe time to replace all the flipper boards??
When I talked to the seller, he said he had the same issue when he bought it. But after checking connections , all started working correctly. Hate intermittent issues. That’s why I’m leaning on cold solder joints?? Or am I wrong?
Thank you and glad to be in the club!!
[quoted image]

Great collection! My TZ is also beside my WW and the wife really wants a JP.

In answer to your question, I had the same issue with my left flipper and indeed it was a failing flipper opto. Easy to diagnose if you just swap the left and right ones. It's a pretty cheap and easy replacement part too. Good luck.

#10797 4 months ago

How to Safely Remove TZ Playfield?

I need to pull the PF from my game to remove/refinish the carriage bolts that support the slide mechanism.
I've never removed the PF from a Bally/Williams cabinet with this style of mechanism and I don't see any instructions for actual removal in the manual. With a Stern game, you can slide the PF out to the service position and then just lift it out. With this mechanism, sliding the PF out to the service position engages the pivot-lock mech. Is the answer to slide the PF only midway out of the cabinet so the mech can't engage the pins on that plate?

83402DA1-AEE7-4753-8834-AC1E5D98BEE9 (resized).jpegB4186FDE-F7FD-46DD-ACEC-45603F5D9EF9 (resized).jpeg

#10798 4 months ago

Does anyone have this particular style of artblades installed in his/her TZ? If so, how do you like them? Winners? Or would rather have a different style after all? If you have time to snap a photo and post it here I would love to see them in situ. Thanks!

TZ.Tilt.Graphics.Gameblades (resized).jpg
#10799 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

How to Safely Remove TZ Playfield?

Two people is best. Unplug everything for it. Stand straight up. Lift straight up and out.

LTG : )

#10800 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Rocket Kicker Warning?
My Rocket kicker will fire the instant the switch is closed.
I've noticed on other TZs there is a pause, then a strobe warning, and *then* the kicker fires.
My game ROM is REV-L2 I believe.
Do I need L5 instead?

Warning: L5 is not the latest. I had it for years in my TZ (I'm the one who dumped it). 9.2 is the arcade latest, 9.4H is the home latest (many feature but coin play enforcement is disabled). I'm running 9.2 right now and it's perfect.

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