You're telling me the wire could well be broken despite the continuity? Not sure how I would safely jump violet wire.

Thanks for your input. I have continuity - and thus a "beep" - when measuring.

The meter is on zero. If you have continuity, jumping it won't make it any better.

LTG : )

Have you Ohm tested your magnets? Sorry if I missed it. You should be able to tell instantly if your magnet coils are good. They do fail. They should test at about 4.5 Ohms. Just set your meter to Ohms and place the leads on each wire running to the coil.

Thanks for the suggestion.
Both are pulling 5 Ohms apparently.

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The magnets are controlled by J124 pin 1 / 2 and J109 pin 5 / 7. How do they look? Q24 and Q26 are the control transistors. Check those out too.

How do you know the mini playfield magnets aren’t working? They don’t work in test or they don’t work in actual game play? There is an opto that gets tripped when the ball goes to the mini playfield in game play. If that isn’t working your magnets won’t. Check out that opto in the switch test.

I will look, but don't forget I put my PDB in Lloyd's TZ and his magnets worked fine.

Magnets don't work in test or in gameplay.
Opto and switches work fine in test.

Sorry, just looked at the manual. It is switch 44 (not a opto). Make sure that is working on your game.

Thanks for the suggestion.
That entry switch registers in test.

Are you sure fuse F103 is OK? Double check it and the fuse clips with the multimeter.

I have continuity end-to-end on all the PDB fuses and from each fuse to its clips.
Again though, I tested my power driver board in Lloyd's TZ and his magnets worked.

Mini-PF magnets are now working!

I know you all like a good puzzle so I will give you two clues. It was with these two clues alone that I came to the solution.
Both are attached here.
Good luck.
A virtual Snickers bar for the first to get it!
Hint: ignore the meter.

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Magnets - looks like you have the left and right magnet connections switched
Lamps - check the connectivity of the specific wires to ensure there are no breaks. It might just need the connector re-pinned
Flippers - didn't you originally successfully test your fliptronics board in Lloyd's machine? It would make sense to me that the fliptronics board was the issue given jumping the J905 pins didn't show any switch activation

Love that there are options! Thank you very much!!!

Most of the major suppliers carry the reinforced standup target (in case you are having to purchase other things) although PB Resources were the cheapest when I looked recently

So, they did work just not for the correct switch?

No.
The magnets didn't work at all until the connectors were switched back to stock - violet/white to right.

Developments:

Lamps:

I'm looking at the lamp matrix in the manual and surprised to see all the lamps that are out reside in a single row - #7. Legend reads Red-Violet, J133-8, Q84. That pin resides on the PDB. Looks fine. I will check continuity to the lamp board connectors.
Okay, I do *not* have continuity between the lamp connector at the PDB and the connector at the lamp board. Do you suspect a broken wire or a failed transistor? Is Q84 the transistor in question? How can it be tested?
Oop!
Found this broken wire near a dead socket and - lo' and behold! - it's red/violet.
Now to figure out how it connects to that socket. Does it go to the banded end of the diode?
Done.
All sockets happy!

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Hey guys would like to share a couple of photos of my Tz topper I'm working on. It is permanently lit but flashes during timed modes. Looks neat in person and the yellow is very close to the translite pyramid. It also has a blue light coming from the front eye but my photo doesn't show it well.

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Compare to your other sockets. All wired the same. Only the stripes on the main color are different.

LTG : )

Thanks.

Wow!
Super dope!
Great job!
Your translite is beautifully lit. LED's? Is so, what shade of white?
Or is that a CPR mirrored backglass?

Two wires. Red with violet stripe. Both go to the same lug. For shoot again lamp.

LTG : )

Thanks, translite all leds except the blinking globes. All leds are cool white and super bright except around twilight zone, these are cool white but quite dim leds.

Interesting. "Super Brights"? Do you mean simply 2SMD?

Rocket Kicker Warning?

My Rocket kicker will fire the instant the switch is closed.
I've noticed on other TZs there is a pause, then a strobe warning, and *then* the kicker fires.
My game ROM is REV-L2 I believe.
Do I need L5 instead?

The two links below show the ROM revision history for TZ.

http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/tz_romrev.txt
http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/tz94h.php

Review these documents and pick which ROM best suits your needs. I have been running game rom U6 L9.4H since 2007 on my TZ and it works great.

Gord

Hmm.

Please tell me where this mini-PF corner-protector mod is available online. If it was made by a Pinsider, does anyone recall who that was?

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Cliffy : http://www.passionforpinball.com/tz.htm

LTG : )

Ah! Cliffys! I should have guessed.

Thanks, LTG.

No I think they are only one smd but bright

Translites:

I just cleaned my translite. It was more cream colored than white on the backside. Yellowed with age, I guess. Lately I've been lusting after the CPR mirrored backglass but didn't want to blow the $300+ to get it. So, I figured I would do my level best to clean/revive my original translite first. I wasn't sure how to attack it. I separated it from the glass and laid it face down on the bench covered with a cotton tarp. I tried 409. Barely touched it. Also IPA:H20. Nah! Then I tried Crazy Clean. Only slightly better. Then I tried P21S Paint Cleanser Wax Prep. It's basically a gentle polish with some kind of detergent. That was as aggressive as I dared go. I rubbed it in, then wiped it off with a damp micro fiber rag. I did bring the translite around until it was somewhere between cream and white, but it sure wasn't bleach-white. I have bought cool-white 1SMD bulbs for the backbox from Comet and I hope the newly cleaned translite will look its best ever when finally installed. I will take a photo then. I'm a sucker for real backglasses. Love the mirrored accents and the vibrant color!

Displays:

I'm really on the fence about a ColorDMD. I mean, sure, I would love to have one, but they are $450, shipped. Oof! I saw a clip on YouTube of a color display set to B&W. At first I thought it foolish, but then I realized that even a monochrome display in black/white is much more appealing than one in red! If I do buy a ColorDMD, I will certainly give the B&W look a try. I don't actually like many of the other B&W mods for TZ - artblades, for example. Yeah, the show aired on TV before there were color sets and all, but TZ's playfield is ablaze with color and laying B&W anything beside it looks...well, awful. How many of you ColorDMD owners have yours set to B&W?

All right. Got it. From what vendor? Did you buy "blinking" LED's for the blinking bulbs? Are they plug-and-play or do they flicker without an OCD board?

Hi, Gord.
Thanks for the helpful links.
That L9.4H looks great. I don't know that I would use very many of those additional features, but it's just $12, so I will buy/install it just to be sure I have the latest re: that Rocket kicker. I was intrigued by the sound ROM's, too (who doesn't want the best callouts and sound-FX?), but I found an old post here pointing out that the L2 sound ROM adds very little. So, I will skip that one.

I'm with you; it makes no sense. I assumed that switched connectors would just mean reversed flipper controls. I did *not* imagine it would disable the magnets entirely!

Depends on how it's wired. Right flipper button opto board has to be plugged in for the left flipper button opto board to work. The left one gets it's power from the right.

LTG : )

The blinkers are incandescents. I'll try to take a photo of the backboard today or tomorrow. The blinkers were purchased years ago. Led version I foumd on rtbb.com.au who buy stuff from pinball life

That picture is from my machine xD
But got the small metal protector indeed from Cliffy

I’ve had a few mirrored back glasses from CPR and the nicest one was the TZ one, the old one can go on a wall. I did have an Indiana Jones one but didn’t fit it as I didn’t like it, wish I did now as I would have had the old translite on the wall.

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Some photos

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Great collection! My TZ is also beside my WW and the wife really wants a JP.

In answer to your question, I had the same issue with my left flipper and indeed it was a failing flipper opto. Easy to diagnose if you just swap the left and right ones. It's a pretty cheap and easy replacement part too. Good luck.

How to Safely Remove TZ Playfield?

I need to pull the PF from my game to remove/refinish the carriage bolts that support the slide mechanism.
I've never removed the PF from a Bally/Williams cabinet with this style of mechanism and I don't see any instructions for actual removal in the manual. With a Stern game, you can slide the PF out to the service position and then just lift it out. With this mechanism, sliding the PF out to the service position engages the pivot-lock mech. Is the answer to slide the PF only midway out of the cabinet so the mech can't engage the pins on that plate?

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Does anyone have this particular style of artblades installed in his/her TZ? If so, how do you like them? Winners? Or would rather have a different style after all? If you have time to snap a photo and post it here I would love to see them in situ. Thanks!

TZ.Tilt.Graphics.Gameblades (resized).jpg

Two people is best. Unplug everything for it. Stand straight up. Lift straight up and out.

LTG : )

Warning: L5 is not the latest. I had it for years in my TZ (I'm the one who dumped it). 9.2 is the arcade latest, 9.4H is the home latest (many feature but coin play enforcement is disabled). I'm running 9.2 right now and it's perfect.