(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

7 years ago


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There are 10887 posts in this topic. You are on page 215 of 218.
#10701 13 days ago
Quoted from MarklarD:

I have that one in my machine. It looks nice and works well. I think it's 3d printed, where as some of the older ones might be made out of metal.

The one pictured looks metal, they are pretty hard to find and are a bitch to drill. We were making them on request a few years back when nobody else was making them anymore. We stopped because you need a heavy duty machine to drill out the big hole in the middle where the ball passes through. A typical drill press doesn’t handle it well. A dremel can work, but it eats up blades fast and it’s tough to get a clean cut. It’s also pretty fiddly to install so the ball passes just under the slot reel to get it to spin. So we stopped making them.

Here’s a link to a blank if someone wants to diy.

ebay.com link: itm

#10702 13 days ago

I got the second coat of wax down on my friend's PF today. Tomorrow I shall start repopulating. As they say thoughts and prayers...

IMG_9016 (resized).jpgIMG_9017 (resized).jpg
#10703 13 days ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I got the second coat of wax down on my friend's PF today. Tomorrow I shall start repopulating. As they say thoughts and prayers...
[quoted image][quoted image]

Lookin' good!

#10704 13 days ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

This one is in the UK on Ebay, but it looks nice.
ebay.com link: itm
I purchased a similar looking TZ slot machine mod from Tracy Mitchell (Tracy Toys) in the US back in November of 2007 for $150 which is shown in the photos below and is still going strong. The Tracy Toys TZ slot machine mod shown in my photos is made out of metal whereas the UK version of the TZ slot machine mod that is currently on Ebay is resin cast 3D printed.
Gord
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

It ain’t metal and it’s not as nice as the one on eBay, but I made this bad boy for $20 or less. To me, couldn’t justify $200 for what is basically an over priced Christmas ornament, which so happens to be the same thing I used here!

FBF3258A-E4CA-44B3-869E-D94390AB5DC2 (resized).jpeg
#10705 12 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

If you remove J905, start a game and then jumper J905-1 to ground - does the lower right flipper activate? If it does then the issue is the flipper opto boards and/or connectivity, but if it doesn't trigger then the issue is the fliptronics board

Hi.
Sorry for the delayed response.
I tried shorting J905-1 to ground and the flipper did NOT fire.
All switches are working, excluding the flipper optos.
Mini-PF magnets still down.

#10706 12 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Try removing the fliptronics board. Clean the pads on the back that touch the mounting posts on the back wall. Then clean the top of those posts good. To be sure that board is grounded in the game good.
Problems here always seem to involve the fliptronics board, that you know is good. And all the other boards work good so we know they are grounded good.
LTG : )

Thanks for the suggestion. Still no flippers.

#10707 12 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Lookin' good!

Thanks. However it turns out will be an improvement.

#10708 12 days ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I got the second coat of wax down on my friend's PF today. Tomorrow I shall start repopulating. As they say thoughts and prayers...
[quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome work!
That PF cleaned up beautifully!!
Your homey is gonna be jazzed!

#10709 12 days ago

Dead Sockets:

Lamps at upper corners on my "Door" board aren't working. I know the sockets are fine as I can rotate them around the board to check them.
I was told to reflow the solder at the connector, which I have now done.
Multimeter reads 1.5V at working sockets and 0V at the corners.
How do I revive this pair?

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#10710 12 days ago

The pads the socket twists onto have worn dimples. Flow some solder on them to raise them level.

Gently clean the pins so the connector makes good contact. Diode for each bulb good ?

LTG : )

#10711 12 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Hi.
Sorry for the delayed response.
I tried shorting J905-1 to ground and the flipper did NOT fire.
All switches are working, excluding the flipper optos.
Mini-PF magnets still down.

What was the issue with the start button?

Can you just double check that flippers still work in test mode?

#10712 12 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

What was the issue

A quick summary. His flippers and magnets on mini playfield don't work. He has tried his boards ( Fliptronics, magnet board, and driver board ) and ribbon cables in my game. They work in my game.

He hasn't tried his flipper button opto boards in my game, I don't know if his flipper button opto boards work in switch edge test in his game.

LTG : )

#10713 12 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Dead Sockets:
Lamps at upper corners on my "Door" board aren't working. I know the sockets are fine as I can rotate them around the board to check them.
I was told to reflow the solder at the connector, which I have now done.
Multimeter reads 1.5V at working sockets and 0V at the corners.
How do I revive this pair?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Were you measuring the voltage in the twist in socket where the LED goes - in which case look at LTG post. If you were measuring on the PCB pads the socket connects to, then I'd say you still have a problem at the header pin or the connector

#10714 12 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Were you measuring the voltage in the twist in socket where the LED goes - in which case look at LTG post. If you were measuring on the PCB pads the socket connects to, then I'd say you still have a problem at the header pin or the connector

Measured at the pads.
Having the same issue with this board.
I reflowed solder at these pins, too, but the procedure makes me nervous as each solder point is perilously close to its neighbor. Risk of shorting seems high.
Also, voltage test on the connector shows a variety of voltages, but there *is* voltage at each/every pin for both of the problem boards.
518D4848-FB9B-4DF8-8795-6A372F910255 (resized).jpegADB295B4-1BDB-4B36-B1DE-791B25721A32 (resized).jpeg

#10715 12 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

A quick summary. His flippers and magnets on mini playfield don't work. He has tried his boards ( Fliptronics, magnet board, and driver board ) and ribbon cables in my game. They work in my game.
He hasn't tried his flipper button opto boards in my game, I don't know if his flipper button opto boards work in switch edge test in his game.
LTG : )

Nah I'm across the issues he's having, but after he returned the boards to his machine he posted the following

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm unable to even start a game.
Start button not responsive.

Yet from a post today it looks like he's fixed that issue - hence I was specifically asking what was the issue with the start button, as in how did he resolve it. As that might be useful to know in troubleshooting the other issues.

I got him to test the flipper buttons in switch test mode and they aren't registering, however when he shorted J905-1 to ground it didn't trigger the flipper either. The opto boards do have power.

#10716 12 days ago

Are dirty. Female part inside connector may be dirty too.

LTG : )

#10717 12 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Nah I'm across the issues he's having, but after he returned the boards to his machine he posted the following

Yet from a post today it looks like he's fixed that issue - hence I was specifically asking what was the issue with the start button, as in how did he resolve it. As that might be useful to know in troubleshooting the other issues.
I got him to test the flipper buttons in switch test mode and they aren't registering, however when he shorted J905-1 to ground it didn't trigger the flipper either. The opto boards do have power.

Start button sorted. Just poorly seated in socket and not actuating when pressed.
Sorry not to mention that.
Flipper buttons don't register in test.
Flipper coils will fire in solenoid- and flipper tests.

#10718 12 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Measured at the pads.
Having the same issue with this board.
I reflowed solder at these pins, too, but the procedure makes me nervous as each solder point is perilously close to its neighbor. Risk of shorting seems high.[quoted image][quoted image]

Looking at the door PCB those header pins still potentially have issues. Do a connectivity test on your DMM between the pad and the header pin - I think you'll find some pins need to be reflowed

#10719 12 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Looking at the door PCB those header pins still potentially have issues. Do a connectivity test on your DMM between the pad and the header pin - I think you'll find some pins need to be reflowed

I see the same thing - cracks in the solder joints.

#10720 12 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Measured at the pads.
Having the same issue with this board.
I reflowed solder at these pins, too, but the procedure makes me nervous as each solder point is perilously close to its neighbor. Risk of shorting seems high.
Also, voltage test on the connector shows a variety of voltages, but there *is* voltage at each/every pin for both of the problem boards.
[quoted image][quoted image]

What type of solder are you using to reflow your joints?

#10721 12 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

What type of solder are you using to reflow your joints?

Lead.

#10722 12 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Do a connectivity test on your DMM between the pad and the header pin - I think you'll find some pins need to be reflowed

Continuity between pin and pad in all three cases.

#10723 12 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Start button sorted. Just poorly seated in socket and not actuating when pressed.
Sorry not to mention that.
Flipper buttons don't register in test.
Flipper coils will fire in solenoid- and flipper tests.

Thanks for confirming the start button issue.

As to the flipper problem, we know that the fliptronics board works, the flipper coils work in test mode, the flipper opto switches don't work in test mode but are connected and both opto boards have power. What is strange is that shorting J905-1 to J905-6 (ground) doesn't register as a switch closing.

Couple of things to do:
1. Clean the optos with alcohol on a Q-tip then test if your flipper buttons work
2. Swap the opto boards between the left and right sides then test if your flipper buttons work
3. Go into switch test mode and try jumping J905-1 to J905-6, then try J905-2 to J905-6, J905-3 to J905-6 and J905-5 to J905-6

Let us now what you find

#10724 12 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Continuity between pin and pad in all three cases.

I'd suggest reflowing the header pins anyway as they don't look great.

You might want to double check that there no issue with the wiring and connectors in getting power to the board for those lamps

#10725 12 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I'd suggest reflowing the header pins anyway as they don't look great.

Or bring them in. I'll do them.

LTG : )

#10726 12 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Diode for each bulb good ?
LTG : )

Not sure as my test method is apparently flawed.
Meter set to 2Kohms resistance, then to 200ohms. Black probe to cathode, red to anode. No reading.

7EA01BDD-125C-40DC-9A30-F76CBD7CFBCF (resized).jpeg
#10727 12 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Not sure as my test method is apparently flawed.

In circuit isn't the way to check a diode.

Bring the board in. I'll clean it up and try in my game.

LTG : )

#10728 12 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Not sure as my test method is apparently flawed.
Meter set to 2Kohms resistance, then to 200ohms. Black probe to cathode, red to anode. No reading.[quoted image]

Put your meter in diode mode...see the symbol on it

#10729 12 days ago
Quoted from Manny65: Couple of things to do:
1. Clean the optos with alcohol on a Q-tip then test if your flipper buttons work
Done.
2. Swap the opto boards between the left and right sides then test if your flipper buttons work
Done.
3. Go into switch test mode and try jumping J905-1 to J905-6, then try J905-2 to J905-6, J905-3 to J905-6 and J905-5 to J905-6
Done. No jump fires a flipper.
Let us now what you find

#10730 12 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Thanks for confirming the start button issue.
As to the flipper problem, we know that the fliptronics board works, the flipper coils work in test mode, the flipper opto switches don't work in test mode but are connected and both opto boards have power. What is strange is that shorting J905-1 to J905-6 (ground) doesn't register as a switch closing.
Couple of things to do:
1. Clean the optos with alcohol on a Q-tip then test if your flipper buttons work
2. Swap the opto boards between the left and right sides then test if your flipper buttons work
3. Go into switch test mode and try jumping J905-1 to J905-6, then try J905-2 to J905-6, J905-3 to J905-6 and J905-5 to J905-6
Let us now what you find

No jump in J905 fires a flipper.
Opto switches cleaned and swapped.

#10731 12 days ago

To test the diode you need to have meter set here.

702F0E26-8A6C-407D-8C23-F42196D22E82 (resized).jpeg
#10732 12 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Put your meter in diode mode...see the symbol on it

Thanks.
Diodes all have approximately identical readings.

#10733 12 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Diodes all have approximately identical readings.

They aren't your issue.

LTG : )

#10734 12 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Continuity between pin and pad in all three cases.

I had a similar problem with the K-I-S-S lamp board on my CFTBL. When I tested continuity from the header pins to the lamp pads my DMM would buzz and register continuity. However, intermittently during gameplay one of the <S> letters would stop lighting up and then stay dark until I would jiggle the connector.

Assuming a cold solder joint, I reflowed solder to the offending <S> header pin and it has worked perfectly ever since which has been a couple of years now. I am not saying that this is the same issue in your case, but it is something to consider.

Gord

#10735 12 days ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

<snip>
Assuming a cold solder joint, I reflowed solder to the offending <S> header pin and it has worked perfectly ever since which has been a couple of years now. I am not saying that this is the same issue in your case, but it is something to consider.
Gord

Hi, Gord. Thanks for your input.
I already flowed solder at the base of each pin, adding a tiny amount in each case. I suppose I could do it again but this time *not* add more. I don't really know what more there could be to reflowing solder at connector pins. I hold the iron tip to the solder on one side of the pin and my piece of solder wire on the other. The solder flows, a second or two later my solder flows, I remove my solder and the iron, the solder cools. What else is there?

#10736 12 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Hi, Gord. Thanks for your input.
I already flowed solder at the base of each pin, adding a tiny amount in each case. I suppose I could do it again but this time *not* add more. I don't really know what more there could be to reflowing solder at connector pins. I hold the iron tip to the solder on one side of the pin and my piece of solder wire on the other. The solder flows, a second or two later my solder flows, I remove my solder and the iron, the solder cools. What else is there?

Technique sounds right. If you click on the below you'll see how the solder hasn't joined to the header pin - the other lamp board you did looks much better, so I'd suggest having another go on the door PCB. If you are still struggling then LTG can help however stick with it as I'm sure you'll get there

Header (resized).JPG
#10737 11 days ago

For reference, cold solder joints.
cold_solder_joints (resized).jpg

#10738 11 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I don't really know what more there could be to reflowing solder at connector pins.

Suck off the old solder. Flow on new.

Clean pins. Clean inside female connector.

LTG : )

#10739 11 days ago

So the new trough board from Marco will not send a single for Switch 26 when a detects a metal ball. It will detect the metal ball and the light will turn on but will not register sw26. I reached out to Gulf Pinball and he said there's nothing he can do. Marco will refund my money but they don't have anymore available or other options any time soon. I did test all the parts in another TZ with the same results. So I'm stuck with my old bad board which at least was stuck on, switch 26 would not turn off with the old one. Going to pull the parts and see if I can figure out what's going on with the old one.

Anyone have any experience fixing these boards or has a spare one for sale? I'm keeping the new coil sensor board just need the proximity sensor pcb. Trough

20210721_132809 (resized).jpg
#10740 11 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

So the new trough board from Marco will not send a single for Switch 26 when a detects a metal ball. It will detect the metal ball and the light will turn on but will not register sw26. I reached out to Gulf Pinball and he said there's nothing he can do. Marco will refund my money but they don't have anymore available or other options any time soon. I did test all the parts in another TZ with the same results. So I'm stuck with my old bad board which at least was stuck on, switch 26 would not turn off with the old one. Going to pull the parts and see if I can figure out what's going on with the old one.
Anyone have any experience fixing these boards or has a spare one for sale? I'm keeping the new coil sensor board just need the proximity sensor pcb. Trough
[quoted image]

Neither of those are OEM/Original. Do you still HAVE your original?

#10741 11 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Neither of those are OEM/Original. Do you still HAVE your original?

No I don't have a original board. Mine came with the black board and the green Gulf Pinball set is what Marco sells now.

#10742 11 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

No I don't have a original board. Mine came with the black board and the green Gulf Pinball set is what Marco sells now.

Ah! Okay, since they're not OEM, likely schematics aren't available. I don't see why you couldn't spend time and figure out where the issue lies. I would keep an eye open for an OEM original board (easier to fix, since schematics are in the manual). If you think the board you got from Marco is bad and and not an issue with the company that made it, looks like Pinball Life has them available -
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0421-00

Also keep in mind that the sensor boards - the bit that mounts in front of the trough - may not be compatible between board makers. Keep that in mind as you swap boards around!

#10743 10 days ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Had the similar issue with my TZ. One weak flipper. It turned out to be a dirty flipper opto board and a missed alignment of the flipper opto plastic that breaks the eye. Once this was corrected I had full flipper power again. Try this first as its just cleaning and alignment.

Cleaned and adjusted, and still had intermittent problems with the lower left flipper. Bought all new opto boards as well as the one for the backbox. Only needed the lower left. Think I had a slightly cut trace line on the one board. Now all is great. Left and right flippers are super strong. Didn’t need the other opto board or backbox board, but always nice to have a spare!

7F1DF572-F7B3-4858-9B8B-07AD06301C61 (resized).jpegD3721DFC-6C18-423D-8353-FFE242DE5428 (resized).jpeg
#10744 10 days ago

Now one more question, the target by the front right scoop always seems to get bent backwards allowing the ball to hit the scoop. Apparently this has happened slot in this games life. Is there any kind of fix for this??

image (resized).jpg
#10745 10 days ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Now one more question, the target by the front right scoop always seems to get bent backwards allowing the ball to hit the scoop. Apparently this has happened slot in this games life. Is there any kind of fix for this??
[quoted image]

http://www.pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm#blysu

Pinball Resource has reinforced switches for TZ.

Screen Shot 2021-07-22 at 12.58.31 PM (resized).png
#10746 10 days ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Is there any kind of fix for this??

https://mantispinball.com/product/twilight-zone-slot-machine-scoop/ it has a tab protruding from the side to stop the target.

LTG : )

#10747 10 days ago

Developments:

Magnets:
I brought my mini-PF to Lloyd's and connected it to the harness in his game. Switches, opto, and lamps: yes. Magnets: no. Does anything in this photo jump out at you? I have continuity from the main magnet connector to each magnet connector (violet and violet/white). Remember, my Spiral magnets work, and I already tested my 8-high power driver- and power-driver boards in Lloyd's machine. Is it a grounding issue? I assume that if the the mini-PF weren't grounded properly the switches, opto, and lamps wouldn't be working - but they *did* work in my test swap. It still seems so unlikely that *both* magnets have somehow failed. I mean, I would expect a magnet to fail about as often as a standard coil - which is to say rarely if ever.

Lamps:
I brought my ailing lamp boards to Lloyd's and they work fine in his machine. I guess I have to clean my connectors somehow.

Flippers:
I borrowed Lloyd's Fliptronics board and installed it in my game. Flippers worked normally. I then put my own board back and they did not. Lloyd's inspection of my board pointed to the bridge rectifier - which he then graciously replaced - but it didn't revive the board.

Thoughts?

Thanks.
B23F495E-763B-495A-8B30-6D0661DD1C9D (resized).jpeg

#10748 10 days ago

Jump the purple wire. It may have a break internally you can't see.

LTG : )

#10749 10 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

https://mantispinball.com/product/twilight-zone-slot-machine-scoop/ it has a tab protruding from the side to stop the target.
LTG : )

I had the same issue and purchased the slot machine scoop with the tab on the side from Mantis Amusements back in March of 2008 and have had absolutely no problems since. This also stops airballs from the slot machine standup target.

Gord

#10750 10 days ago

If you have a good connection and the continuity test isn’t making a noise - jump the cable and see it this fixes it - the Purple cable could well be broken in the cable.

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