Thank you, I was wondering if they were fixed or not given the limited clearance. New cores it is!

Smart idea!
Harvest two pristine magnets from mini-PF!
That never occurred to me, so I took out the cores and dressed/polished them.

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Those came out great! Did you just grind them and then polish?

Magnets Cont'd:

No continuity beep with common probe connected to cabinet ground braid and red probe used to probe blue/red and blue/brown at the back of the connector - both at the driver board or the high-power board.
It seems the power driver board isn't sending a signal to the high-power board in test or during game play. Why? Does the driver board get that signal from the CPU? During game play, I s'pose it could come from the Fliptronics board, but during test the Fliptronics boards isn't involved, correct? That command to drive the magnets should come from the CPU and be carried to the driver board via the ribbon cable, no? I know I have continuity from the driver board to the mini-PF harness for both blue/red and blue/brown, so I don't suspect a wiring problem. That leaves the CPU (a new Rottendog, so that's unlikely), the ribbon cables (do these ever fail?), or the power driver board. Any ideas?
Oh, and I forgot to mention that I installed my high-power driver board in another TZ and the magnets on that machine still worked fine, so we know it's not that board.

Thanks.
I have no grinder/polisher.
I put the core in a vice and dressed the top with a bastard-cut file until it was flat/true, then I took it out of the vice, flipped it upside-down, and pushed it back and forth *many* times over a sheet of sand paper laid on a flat plank. I used progressively finer sandpaper until I reached 1K grit. Lastly, I polished it by hand with Brasso.

Hey all new to the group just added a Fully Restored TZ to the collection. Very excited to have this awesome machine in the collection.

Only issue is the dang Proximity Sensor switch #26. I got the game with the error so just went straight to Marco and bought both parts the coil and sensor board. I'm still having issues. I get nothing from the original Coil board in either sensor board, so that seems bad. The original sensor board looks like a repro also says Anarchy PCB and is black. With the new coil and old sensor board still no change can't get the light to turn off even after adjusting the pot on it. So both new parts now installed, I get a light on when a metal ball is in an can adjust down to have the light turn off. Seems to be working correctly. When the power ball is in the sensor the through switch 15 registers light on sensor board goes out but still have through sensor error.
Something I did notice switching back and forth on the boards when I connect the old sensor board in switch test it Registers as switch 26 but stays locked on. I don't get any notification of switch 26 when I plug in the new board. New board also says Golf Pinball.
Is the new board bad? I just got everything installed this evening and will reach out to Marco tomorrow.

Thanks Berto

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Holy shirt!
That thing is stunning!
Congrats!
The PF looks dreamy!
Oh, and where did you get those great apron cards? I want a set.

They are from the Great Pimp you can find them here on Pinside or eBay

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1084-pinball-pimp/04236-bally-twilight-zone-instruction-cards-custom-designed

Assuming all your tests were good, then it's the power driver board. Why? Same reason any other coil could stop working, bad transistor, or pre-driver on the PDB.

In this case, then your testing is flawed some how.

Or - "driver board" - the 8-high power driver board, or the power driver board (PDB) in the backbox.
If you did not, check continuity between the PDB and the 8-driver high power board.

Does anyone have any flashing bulbs in the back glass?
Just doesnt look like there is any spot for one that is appropriate.
They would go nice behind the stars but there are no sockets there.

What a great looking machine. I love seeing all my decal mods on this machine. This one’s really slick

Holy F*CK, that price.
Edit: OH, it's for a box of 100. Okay, whew, that's better!

If anyone needs some, I have a whole bnch, GE branded, that I can share.

Thanks for the suggestion. I did check continuity between the PDB and the 8-high power driver board and between the 8-high board and the mini-PF. All good.

I have had the very good fortune to work with LTG on this and he graciously allowed me to install, individually, the following parts/boards from my game in his game:

1. Fliptronics board
2. 8-high power driver board
3. CPU
4. Power driver board
5. Ribbon cables

In all cases, LTG's TZ worked fine, including the mini-PF magnets, with my parts, so I'm back to square-one.
To be honest, I'm not even back to square-one; after returning the Fliptronics board to my game, my flipper buttons aren't working. The flipper coils fire in test, but the machine doesn't respond to the pressing of the flipper buttons, in test or game play. All connectors appear to be seated properly and the fuses are good.

Suggestions?

Thanks.

It sounds like the flipper button switches aren't working or are not being seen by the fliptronics board. To confirm, go into switch test mode and see if they are being recognised when pressing the flipper buttons.

Given all flippers are out I suspect that the boards are not connected properly to the fliptronics board or that the left flipper opto board is not getting power from the power driver board which will also cause the right flipper opto board not to work as well as it gets power from the left flipper opto board (see 3-24 & 3-25 pages in the manual)

Thanks for your help.
Flipper buttons fail in test.
I believe connectors J905 and J906 on the Fliptronics main board link to the opto switches. Both are plugged in properly, as are the connectors on the opto switches.

Latest/Best Game ROM?

My machine was made in 5/25/93 and is running the REV L-2 ROMset.
IPDB shows revisions up to REV L-5.
Is there a benefit to running the later revisions?
Is there any chance that my magnet woes are attributable to my ROMset?
Were there ever any versions that omitted the mini-PF magnets?
I know it's a long shot.
My game also has a Rottendog CPU. Why would Rottendog load an old ROMset?

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Rottendog shipped it with old ROM. Person that replace the CPU stuck in the ROM from the old CPU. ASIC chip too.

LTG : )

Did you check the power driver connection and confirm you have power at the opto boards?

Hi.
I have 12V at each of the flipper opto switches.
Is this a switch-matrix error?
Is it a ribbon cable?

Not sure if it matters, but I have 0V at the #7 pin on the left opto connector. I do have 12V at #6 though.

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Just added a nice Twilight Zone to my small collection. Playfields, Ramps, and plastics are all perfect. I already ordered the CPR mirrored backglass and flipper fidelity speakers for some nice pop. Nice to have great Pat Lawlor games next to each other.

Only issue I have since bringing it home yesterday (didn’t happen when I looked at the game) is the left lower flipper sometimes doesn’t have the power to move the ball as it should. In switch test mode, it’s fine, all three other flippers work great. When I push on the flipper with the glass off, sometimes it struggles to move my hand. The other three flippers are all great.

Than at times it’s perfect.

Could this be a flipper opto board or flitronic board issue? Will have to check voltage, but if the upper left is fine, and the others are fine,wouldn’t that suggest it getting the proper volts? Will take out the fliptronic board out and check for cold solder joints. Maybe time to replace all the flipper boards??

When I talked to the seller, he said he had the same issue when he bought it. But after checking connections , all started working correctly. Hate intermittent issues. That’s why I’m leaning on cold solder joints?? Or am I wrong?

Thank you and glad to be in the club!!

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IMHO, i am not sure why ANYONE would suggest it's a flipper switch issue. Unless your flippers are not working in-game.

Since items worked in another game, that means:
1. Your continuity tests were flawed, or,
2. You didn't actually check the magnets on the Mini PF

I don't remember if you checked them, but if you DIDN'T, that would be the next step.

Had the similar issue with my TZ. One weak flipper. It turned out to be a dirty flipper opto board and a missed alignment of the flipper opto plastic that breaks the eye. Once this was corrected I had full flipper power again. Try this first as its just cleaning and alignment.

Yes it was in response to having no flippers after he returned the boards to his machine, and not the magnet issue you were helping with - below is the flipper issue he has

Flipper switches are not part of the switch matrix.

So just to confirm:
1. all the flippers work in solenoid test mode - right?
2. both flipper buttons don't show any switch activation in switch test mode - right?
3. J905 (on the fliptronics board) and J1 (on both flipper opto boards) are correctly socketed - right?
4. J903 ribbon cable is orientated on the fliptronics board correctly, with the red line of the ribbon cable matching to J903-1?
4. J1-6 has 12V and J1-3 is grounded - right?

Did you remove the flipper opto boards to test them in your friends machine or was it just the fliptronics board?

Thanks for the help on the backglass flashers.
I thought the black sockets were just sockets tgat got changed out.

Hi.
Yes to all except the last; I did *not* install my flipper opto's in Lloyds game.

If you remove J905, start a game and then jumper J905-1 to ground - does the lower right flipper activate? If it does then the issue is the flipper opto boards and/or connectivity, but if it doesn't trigger then the issue is the fliptronics board

Unless it's an optical illusion... the board connector not only looks broken, but the mating half doesn't look fully seated.

Broken. True. But seated.

Are you telling me I can safely short #1 to ground?
I worry that I will short two pins and damage the board.

Yes that is my understanding, and is why back in the day operators and owners were able to replace flipper opto boards for flipper leaf switches (which simply closes the connection to ground J905-6). In fact both my IJ and Shadow machines (which are fliptronic machines) run flipper leaf switches instead of optos boards.

Unrelated -
Amusingly, we've all seen that upper-right flipper plastic melted from that flasher getting stuck on, the bulb overheating.

Was playing a game last night, and was suddenly blinded, as that same flasher got stuck on. Lost a transistor, out of the blue, on the 8-Driver board. Ugh.

Hi guys. I'm wanting to make a mod and use a standard sized led and lamp socket that I can attach/connect to 'the power ' controlled lamp.

I simply tried connecting and found the led on the power seems dimmer and the connected led flickers a little but seems fully lit but pretty much looks like it's always on. I then tried soldering a N4004 diode onto the second lamp socket but same result.

Am I trying to achieve the unachievable or is there something I'm missing in my attempts?

Pls note the lamp socket I'm using is not identical to the one I'm tapping off but does work when I've connected to the gi string so figure it should be OK. But someone might tell me I'm wrong.

Anybody here actually do this? Got a walkthrough?!?!? My TZ opto boards are working just fine, but, leaf switches are SO SO much simpler and reliable!!! Wouldn't mind doing this swap.

This is achievable, double check the diode orientation, should be opposite of a switch.

Funny - I didn't realize the blinking sockets were black. Someone prior to me installed a color changing random blinking LED behind the TV on the backglass. It makes it look like the tv is working (or at least trying to). It would like to get a few more of these but can't find them. Anyone have a source?

I actually put rainbows behind the clock on the translite to match the playfield clock, which is running rainbows on Ingo's board. Looks really nice.

At any rate, you can get LED versions of blinkers and the rainbows at Comet.

I thought Comet too but they don't have any that color change randomly and blink.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm unable to even start a game.
Start button not responsive.
Now I'm wondering if the coin door interface board is unhappy.
I know I have 12V at J2-4.
Did I disrupt ground by pulling this old bill validator?

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110 volt AC. Hot and common. You didn't disrupt ground by unplugging it.

Easy to turn game off. Plug it back in, leave it hang in there. Turn game on and check.

LTG : )

The start button is a switch matrix switch and isn't connected to the coin door interface board (aka dedicated switches)

Do your diagnostic service switches on the coin door work?
Working off the switch matrix in the manual, go into switch test mode and test each and every switch on the matrix, highlighting on the matrix which ones don't work - do any switches work? are the failed switches on particular rows or columns?

FYI, all cabinet switches, save for flipper switches, go through the CDI. Direct & Matrix.

Yep - thanks for correcting.

Can’t seem to find a listing anywhere on the web, does anyone know if the slot machine mod with moving reels is available? The Mod Couple said they won’t be making any more any time soon.

Thank you,

That got me to thinking. Maybe nothing. Just to keep eliminating things.

Try removing the fliptronics board. Clean the pads on the back that touch the mounting posts on the back wall. Then clean the top of those posts good. To be sure that board is grounded in the game good.

Problems here always seem to involve the fliptronics board, that you know is good. And all the other boards work good so we know they are grounded good.

LTG : )

This one is in the UK on Ebay, but it looks nice.

ebay.com link: itm

I purchased a similar looking TZ slot machine mod from Tracy Mitchell (Tracy Toys) in the US back in November of 2007 for $150 which is shown in the photos below and is still going strong. The Tracy Toys TZ slot machine mod shown in my photos is made out of metal whereas the UK version of the TZ slot machine mod that is currently on Ebay is resin cast 3D printed.

Gord

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I have that one in my machine. It looks nice and works well. I think it's 3d printed, where as some of the older ones might be made out of metal.

Thanks for the link! Not sure how I missed it. Bit pricey, but may have to just suck it up if I really want it and the mod couple isn’t making them.