(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

8 years ago


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#10551 3 months ago

found on ebay, not mine . . .

ebay.com link: itm

#10552 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

As factory, star posts. Though nothing stopping you from putting anything else in there.

Thanks.
I wondered because the pop ring is hitting the rubber rings.
Now I'm stuck.

#10553 3 months ago
Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

found on ebay, not mine

The casper clock board is cheaper.
IIRC $109

#10554 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Thanks.
I wondered because the pop ring is hitting the rubber rings.
Now I'm stuck.

Tighter rings, loosen the posts slightly and shift them, loosen the pop-bumper body/top and shift it. That is naturally a very very tight area. I remember having issues up there too.

#10555 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Tighter rings, loosen the posts slightly and shift them, loosen the pop-bumper body/top and shift it. That is naturally a very very tight area. I remember having issues up there too.

Thanks, Coyote, for weighing in.
My solution was to shave a few millimeters from each of two sides of the ring. I had a conflict at the ballguide, too.

F7C750B2-EAD9-4DA9-A555-8C9661AF3671 (resized).jpeg
#10556 3 months ago

Back-panel decal to liven up the PF...

BD6EB8FC-A5E4-4130-83F8-AB41AADCF6C0 (resized).jpegC1FE1048-A5FF-4AF0-99CF-17C45E462B46 (resized).jpeg
#10557 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Thanks, Coyote, for weighing in.
My solution was to shave a few millimeters from each of two sides of the ring. I had a conflict at the ballguide, too.
[quoted image]

interesting to see a #44 bayonet socket in your bumper.
Any reason to put it instead the stock #555 ?

#10558 3 months ago
Quoted from harig:

interesting to see a #44 bayonet socket in your bumper.
Any reason to put it instead the stock #555 ?

I think I've also got 44s in my bumpers on my TZ.

#10559 3 months ago
Quoted from harig:

interesting to see a #44 bayonet socket in your bumper.
Any reason to put it instead the stock #555 ?

Bulb will stay in better maybe.

#10560 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Back-panel decal to liven up the PF...
[quoted image][quoted image]

Been eyeing that one myself....how is the quality??

#10561 3 months ago
Quoted from harig:

interesting to see a #44 bayonet socket in your bumper.
Any reason to put it instead the stock #555 ?

Good eye.
Switched to 44 sockets cause they'e a tad shorter (for cap clearance) and I like the security of the bayonet.

#10562 3 months ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Been eyeing that one myself....how is the quality??

Nice product for sure.
Just apply with care to beat air bubbles.
This is a gorgeous decal, but, sadly, you don't see most of it once installed.

#10563 3 months ago

Connector confusion:

Reconnecting various wiring harnesses after a topside tear-down.
Embarrassingly, I have three that are confusing me, all 2-pin and all with green and white leads.
On the right in the photo, the ramp harness's female 2-pin seems set to meet a 2-pin male, but what's going on with the 2-pin male on the left, ten inches away?
I *think* the left male is unrelated, but where is his mate?
He seems to be a subway switch just above the gumball kicker.

32A180B0-AF6F-4207-ACA3-B8933B626749 (resized).jpeg8A7E13BF-5A57-4DB8-922A-1378C9CC7C66 (resized).jpeg90AD7540-37B4-4C18-A446-CFDCE428F585 (resized).jpeg
#10564 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Connector confusion:
Reconnecting various wiring harnesses after a topside tear-down.
Embarrassingly, I have three that are confusing me, all 2-pin and all with green and white leads.
On the right in the photo, the ramp harness's female 2-pin seems set to meet a 2-pin male, but what's going on with the 2-pin male on the left, ten inches away?
I *think* the left male is unrelated, but where is his mate?
He seems to be a subway switch just above the gumball kicker.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Second picture is your Left Ramp (made) switch, #54. The first pne you have pictured is likely you Left Ram Enter switch, #53.
I am guessing when you put you installed your ramp, you forgot to feed the entry switch plug through the hole in the PF.

#10565 3 months ago

Hi Everyone, not an owner, but about to start a PF strip and clean for a good friend of mine. I'd like to make this as nice as I can for him, but truth be told this is not a table that I have a ton of familiarity with. Are there any must have mods/recommendations that y'all recommend?

I plan to spend tomorrow reading through this thread and getting myself more familiar with everything, but figured it also couldn't hurt to ask. I thank you all in advance.

#10566 3 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Hi Everyone, not an owner, but about to start a PF strip and clean for a good friend of mine. I'd like to make this as nice as I can for him, but truth be told this is not a table that I have a ton of familiarity with. Are there any must have recommendations that y'all recommend?
I plan to spend tomorrow reading through this thread and getting myself more familiar with everything, but figured it also couldn't hurt to ask. I thank you all in advance.

Joan's videos might help you -- I've personally found them informative.

Part 1, you can find the rest on his profile:

#10567 3 months ago

Label the wires when disconnecting mini playfield.

#10568 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Second picture is your Left Ramp (made) switch, #54. The first pne you have pictured is likely you Left Ram Enter switch, #53.
I am guessing when you put you installed your ramp, you forgot to feed the entry switch plug through the hole in the PF.

You are very clever, Coyote!
Bingo!
Forgot to fish the left ramp's switch connector/harness down through the PF.
BIG problem, as I had no access with the ramps installed.
Enter: the lifesaver!
A length of coat hanger cut/bent into a wire fisher!
Crisis averted!

3449A30A-9DBA-4C65-94A1-BE58832982DB (resized).jpeg8CFD7CB8-1D71-4DFB-8B9B-8A04C6FFCE7C (resized).jpegFCB4DF97-8B60-4DD0-8482-A3462BA06E98 (resized).jpeg
#10569 3 months ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

Joan's videos might help you -- I've personally found them informative.
Part 1, you can find the rest on his profile:

Oh these will be great. Many thanks.

Quoted from PinballAir:

Label the wires when disconnecting mini playfield.

Thanks!

#10570 3 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Hi Everyone, not an owner, but about to start a PF strip and clean for a good friend of mine. I'd like to make this as nice as I can for him, but truth be told this is not a table that I have a ton of familiarity with. Are there any must have mods/recommendations that y'all recommend?
I plan to spend tomorrow reading through this thread and getting myself more familiar with everything, but figured it also couldn't hurt to ask. I thank you all in advance.

The magnet for the upper pf diverter (dumps the ball down above upper flipper) is highly recommended. There is a separator plastic piece for the gumball machine that keeps balls from jamming up in there. The lock panel flashers mod is nice but not really necessary. Reinforced target needed for piano target. Stock one takes a beating and gets bent back, causing air balls. With all games, I highly recommend ocd boards with leds.

#10571 3 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

The magnet for the upper pf diverter (dumps the ball down above upper flipper) is highly recommended. There is a separator plastic piece for the gumball machine that keeps balls from jamming up in there. The lock panel flashers mod is nice but not really necessary. Reinforced target needed for piano target. Stock one takes a beating and gets bent back, causing air balls. With all games, I highly recommend ocd boards with leds.

Awesome. thank you so much!

#10572 3 months ago

Opto Confusion:

Left-magnet opto switch (#83) out.
Had to pull the ramp to inspect.
Orange lead disconnected.
Whew! Problem solved!
Not so fast...
After the solder repair, the switch is still open in test (should be closed until beam is broken).
Meter reads 2V at working optos elsewhere on PF, but 29V at #83.
29V???? WTF?
Photo shows left- and right opto connectors.
All looks Kosher but clearly is not.
Ideas?
AE587081-CFBA-4614-BF52-75028A09416A (resized).jpeg

B094B629-C170-41BE-9A5E-3F7305E154D0 (resized).jpeg
#10573 3 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

The magnet for the upper pf diverter (dumps the ball down above upper flipper) is highly recommended. There is a separator plastic piece for the gumball machine that keeps balls from jamming up in there. The lock panel flashers mod is nice but not really necessary. Reinforced target needed for piano target. Stock one takes a beating and gets bent back, causing air balls. With all games, I highly recommend ocd boards with leds.

Did you mean slot machine target needs to be reinforced?

#10574 3 months ago

LED shade of white for inserts:

What do you prefer?

Warm White?
Natural/Cool White?

All 1SMD?

#10575 3 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Did you mean slot machine target needs to be reinforced?

I believe he meant the yellow target to the left of the Player Piano Jackpot hole/scoop opposite the upper-left flipper. The only source I know of for the "reinforced" target is The Pinball Resource. I installed one at the Slot Machine scoop and one beside the pops that takes the most punishment. I s'pose I should have put one by the Player Piano but I did not. They cost about $9 each and come with the diode already soldered in place. The soldering involved to swap out a target is fairly simple. It's good practice for basic soldering technique. Hard to screw it up.

#10576 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I believe he meant the yellow target to the left of the Player Piano Jackpot hole/scoop opposite the upper-left flipper. The only source I know of for the "reinforced" target is The Pinball Resource. I installed one at the Slot Machine scoop and one beside the pops that takes the most punishment. I s'pose I should have put one by the Player Piano but I did not. They cost about $9 each and come with the diode already soldered in place. The soldering involved to swap out a target is fairly simple. It's good practice for basic soldering technique. Hard to screw it up.

Nah the reinforced targets are available at a range of places but PBresource is the cheapest by the looks of it. The original A-15658-6 was replaced by the A-18530-6. Here's what I found with a quick search

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-6R
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=A-18530-6R
https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/williams-c-5_36/target-switch-oblong-yellow-reinforced-p-8123.html
https://www.pinballshop.nl/playfield-parts/targets/target-switch-reinforced-oblong-yellow-front-mount/?sl=en

#10577 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

LED shade of white for inserts:
What do you prefer?
Warm White?
Natural/Cool White?
All 1SMD?

That's going to come down to your tastes. I have terrible night vision, anything dim and dark is miserable for me so I like my pins bright. I go natural white for: white, yellow amber and then the associated color for blue, green, red, purple. And much to the dismay of Taxman (RIP) I go 4 SMD.

I've read through the first ten or so pages of this group and must say it is one of the better and most helpful ones out there. It seems like a really solid and passionate group of pin owners. I cannot wait to get this PF started. It's great when you can help get a friend's pin back up and running.

#10578 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Opto Confusion:
Left-magnet opto switch (#83) out.
Had to pull the ramp to inspect.
Orange lead disconnected.
Whew! Problem solved!
Not so fast...
After the solder repair, the switch is still open in test (should be closed until beam is broken).
Meter reads 2V at working optos elsewhere on PF, but 29V at #83.
29V???? WTF?
Photo shows left- and right opto connectors.
All looks Kosher but clearly is not.
Ideas?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I am guessing you checked multiple times to make sure this wasn't a mistake/meter error? If so, again I don't have a ton of knowledge with this game and don't have time to look in the manual before heading out to work, but if this has an associated resistor (which many do) I would check that first. It's also worth checking the voltage from the PCB to see where that is at.

#10579 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

LED shade of white for inserts:
What do you prefer?
Warm White?
Natural/Cool White?
All 1SMD?

Cool white always reminds me of the dentist's... warm all the way!

#10580 3 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Did you mean slot machine target needs to be reinforced?

Sorry, yes. Slot machine target.

#10581 3 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

That's going to come down to your tastes. I have terrible night vision, anything dim and dark is miserable for me so I like my pins bright. I go natural white for: white, yellow amber and then the associated color for blue, green, red, purple. And much to the dismay of Taxman (RIP) I go 4 SMD.
I've read through the first ten or so pages of this group and must say it is one of the better and most helpful ones out there. It seems like a really solid and passionate group of pin owners. I cannot wait to get this PF started. It's great when you can help get a friend's pin back up and running.

4smd is super bright. I usually stick with 2smd for gi and 1smd for inserts with maybe custom spot lights. I also like bright games and that's bright enough for me. If you are not sure what color white to use or what bulbs to use in general, buy samples and test them out. You can put something like warm white on the left side of slings/inlanes and natural white on right.

#10582 3 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Sorry, yes. Slot machine target.

No worries. Just knew the slot was a problem because my TZ had the reinforced target when I got it.

#10583 3 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I am guessing you checked multiple times to make sure this wasn't a mistake/meter error? If so, again I don't have a ton of knowledge with this game and don't have time to look in the manual before heading out to work, but if this has an associated resistor (which many do) I would check that first. It's also worth checking the voltage from the PCB to see where that is at.

Hi, NG. Thanks for your help. I did check and recheck the voltage at the switch and couldn't believe it read 29V when it should read just 2V. I will replace the opto and see where we are. I will have to ask LTG for help reading diagrams if I hope to find the associated resistor and just where the power for that switch leaves the PCB - or even *which* PCB. Do you *not* recommend just replacing the opto and seeing what happens?

#10584 3 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

That's going to come down to your tastes. I have terrible night vision, anything dim and dark is miserable for me so I like my pins bright. I go natural white for: white, yellow amber and then the associated color for blue, green, red, purple. And much to the dismay of Taxman (RIP) I go 4 SMD.
I've read through the first ten or so pages of this group and must say it is one of the better and most helpful ones out there. It seems like a really solid and passionate group of pin owners. I cannot wait to get this PF started. It's great when you can help get a friend's pin back up and running.

Hi again, NG. Got it. A matter of taste. Sifting through this thread turns up *many* posts about shades of white - in GI and inserts - as wells as color matching inserts, etc. My initial impression of the stock lighting is, gosh, this is so yellow/dirty/dim! I just have the urge to clean everything, to brighten it up somehow - although I already have cleaned all the lenses of the stock bulbs!
I'm going to try the GI OCD board to start with and natural/cool 2SMD frosted bulbs from Comet. I may break down and buy the insert OCD board later, but for now I will tolerate the yellow/dirty/dim incandescents. I foresee using cool white 1SMD clear for the clear inserts and warm white 1SMD clear for red/orange/amber inserts - either with the OCD board or without it. Not sure what I would use in backbox. Perhaps 1SMD Sunlight. I like the idea of the OCD board as I like the freedom to use whatever LED/SMD I care to in any spot on the PF or for any insert - the way I can on a modern pin. I just wish they weren't so expensive. This game is turning out to be a bit of money pit and I still haven't ponied up for the color DMD!

#10585 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Hi, NG. Thanks for your help. I did check and recheck the voltage at the switch and couldn't believe it read 29V when it should read just 2V. I will replace the opto and see where we are. I will have to ask LTG for help reading diagrams if I hope to find the associated resistor and just where the power for that switch leaves the PCB - or even *which* PCB. Do you *not* recommend just replacing the opto and seeing what happens?

On my MM, there is a PCB under the PF that has a resistor stack on it for the optos. Resistors bring down the voltage so it's the first place I would look if it's that high at the switch. The opto itself is pretty simple and I doubt it would cause what you are experiencing voltage wise.

I have my friend's manual here and have the day off tomorrow, so I can dig a little more.

#10586 3 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

On my MM, there is a PCB under the PF that has a resistor stack on it for the optos. Resistors bring down the voltage so it's the first place I would look if it's that high at the switch. The opto itself is pretty simple and I doubt it would cause what you are experiencing voltage wise.
I have my friend's manual here and have the day off tomorrow, so I can dig a little more.

This appears to be the animal.
The upper connectors are optos. The opto wiring harness begins here and snakes to all the optos - trough, lock, upper PF, magnets, etc.
How can the board supply the proper voltage to all of them *except* switch #83? The board doesn't supply the optos individually, does it?
Each opto has a simple PCB on it. Perhaps that's faulty on #83. Perhaps replacing the opto will sort it out.
At least we know a replacement board is available:
https://www.pinballlife.com/10-opto-replacement-board-for-twilight-zone-a-16807.html
Manual shows J4-3 feeds switch #83.
Resistors servicing that connector look good.
Red-black-red-gold. Is that 40ohm?
Can these be tested on the board?
I would rather not desolder one to test it.
Not sure which corresponds to J4-3 though.
D98EADF2-4EC9-43EC-B5AC-94637845B6EE (resized).jpeg
1213C05C-85F8-4EE2-BEBC-1A4BD276FA1C (resized).jpegFB34BBAE-064B-469D-A4CF-624A3D41AB4B (resized).jpeg53DC4DE6-0168-4D64-AF58-C685E6F8687E (resized).jpeg

#10587 3 months ago

Okay, first,

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

This appears to be the animal.
The upper connectors are optos. The opto wiring harness begins here and snakes to all the optos - trough, lock, upper PF, magnets, etc.
How can the board supply the proper voltage to all of them *except* switch #83? The board doesn't supply the optos individually, does it?
Each opto has a simple PCB on it. Perhaps that's faulty on #83. Perhaps replacing the opto will sort it out.
At least we know a replacement board is available:
https://www.pinballlife.com/10-opto-replacement-board-for-twilight-zone-a-16807.html
Manual shows J4-3 feeds switch #83.
Resistors servicing that connector look good.
Red-black-red-gold. Is that 40ohm?
Can these be tested on the board?
I would rather not desolder one to test it.
Not sure which corresponds to J4-3 though.
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Okay, so first, you need to realize that that board only gets 12v unregulated, which should NOT be as high as 30v.
All LEDs (the sending part of the opto switch) have one feed wired together in serial, and all PHOTO-TRANSISTORS (the receiving end) has one feed wire all connected. The other wire to each opto/led go straight to this board you have pictured.

If you ARE getting ~30v, then something is shorted, and it is likely NOT the opto board above. Do NOT put on another opto, and feed 30v through it; you will just fry it faster than a hot-dog on the sidewalk in Arizona. Trace the wire that's giving you the 30v through the wiring harness; likely it is shorting against a flasher wire.

#10588 3 months ago
Quoted from awesome1:

TZ really benefits from the OCD boards when using LEDs. The dimming with the GI OCD is really good and I didn't realize how much I was missing until I installed it.

Need so help… I just restored a TZ with LEDs throughout. I didn’t install a OCD GI board yet because I’m seeing zero change in the different GI levels. Normally on other games I’ve gone, the LEDs would flicker while the GI is dimming by stepping through the levels. I haven’t added a OCD board on this game yet only because I haven’t noticed that it is attempting to dim at all. I went into the test mode and stepped it through the GI levels and simply no change. Is there something wrong with the game I’m working on, or maybe a setting? I’d gladly add a OCD board but something seems up.

#10589 3 months ago
Quoted from rlbohon3:

Need so help… I just restored a TZ with LEDs throughout. I didn’t install a OCD GI board yet because I’m seeing zero change in the different GI levels. Normally on other games I’ve gone, the LEDs would flicker while the GI is dimming by stepping through the levels. I haven’t added a OCD board on this game yet only because I haven’t noticed that it is attempting to dim at all. I went into the test mode and stepped it through the GI levels and simply no change. Is there something wrong with the game I’m working on, or maybe a setting? I’d gladly add a OCD board but something seems up.

You are missing the zero-cross signal - https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#GI_Lamps_Not_Dimming

#10590 3 months ago
Quoted from rlbohon3:

Need so help… I just restored a TZ with LEDs throughout. I didn’t install a OCD GI board yet because I’m seeing zero change in the different GI levels. Normally on other games I’ve gone, the LEDs would flicker while the GI is dimming by stepping through the levels. I haven’t added a OCD board on this game yet only because I haven’t noticed that it is attempting to dim at all. I went into the test mode and stepped it through the GI levels and simply no change. Is there something wrong with the game I’m working on, or maybe a setting? I’d gladly add a OCD board but something seems up.

Agreed that the zero cross might be a problem. Here's a picture of my game at various brightness levels (Titan frosted LEDs for GI)

Here's mine for example at 3 different levels:
Nada (brightness 1)
PXL_20210708_135022072 (resized).jpg

Meh (brightness 4)
PXL_20210708_135042085 (resized).jpg

Woo (brightness
PXL_20210708_135013331 (resized).jpg

#10591 3 months ago
Quoted from rlbohon3:

Need so help… I just restored a TZ with LEDs throughout. I didn’t install a OCD GI board yet because I’m seeing zero change in the different GI levels. Normally on other games I’ve gone, the LEDs would flicker while the GI is dimming by stepping through the levels. I haven’t added a OCD board on this game yet only because I haven’t noticed that it is attempting to dim at all. I went into the test mode and stepped it through the GI levels and simply no change. Is there something wrong with the game I’m working on, or maybe a setting? I’d gladly add a OCD board but something seems up.

Easy thing to check first is to make sure you have dimming turned on as it can be turned off in the settings.

#10592 3 months ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Easy thing to check first is to make sure you have dimming turned on as it can be turned off in the settings.

I *believe* that even with the setting turned off, in test mode it will still dim the GI. However, it's not a bad thing to check.

#10593 3 months ago

Thanks guys for all the help!! I’ll be home in an hour or so to check. So as for the adjustment, I assume you’re referring to Adjustment 25: Allow Dim Illumination. I think I checked that a few days ago already but will recheck. If that’s set right and the problem persists, I’ll read up on the zero-cross that was linked. Thanks again! Will report back shortly…
Leebo

#10594 3 months ago

Looks like the dimming was turned off after all. I turned it back on, went into the GI test and now all the levels respond with the flicker I’m used to w/o a OCD board installed. Looks like I’ll get an OCD board ordered. However I just played a couple test games now with dimming on and didn’t really notice the GI ever attempting to dim (except for power saver a few minutes after game over).

#10595 3 months ago
Quoted from rlbohon3:

Looks like the dimming was turned off after all. I turned it back on, went into the GI test and now all the levels respond with the flicker I’m used to w/o a OCD board installed. Looks like I’ll get an OCD board ordered. However I just played a couple test games now with dimming on and didn’t really notice the GI ever attempting to dim (except for power saver a few minutes after game over).

monkeyboypaul posted a video last week highlighting several places where the GI dimming effect is used https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/211#post-6362523

#10596 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

monkeyboypaul posted a video last week highlighting several places where the GI dimming effect is used https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/211#post-6362523

Perfect! Thanks for the heads up. That helps.

#10597 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Okay, first,

Okay, so first, you need to realize that that board only gets 12v unregulated, which should NOT be as high as 30v.
All LEDs (the sending part of the opto switch) have one feed wired together in serial, and all PHOTO-TRANSISTORS (the receiving end) has one feed wire all connected. The other wire to each opto/led go straight to this board you have pictured.
If you ARE getting ~30v, then something is shorted, and it is likely NOT the opto board above. Do NOT put on another opto, and feed 30v through it; you will just fry it faster than a hot-dog on the sidewalk in Arizona. Trace the wire that's giving you the 30v through the wiring harness; likely it is shorting against a flasher wire.

Got it.
12V from the board. Impossible to get 29V from it unless a short is involved.
I'm embarrassed to say that today's reading at the switch is 13V. Doubt it changed. More likely I misused the meter. Including a photo here for you to confirm meter setting and probe use. 20V DC is the setting.
The upper PF's opto switch reads 6.5V and the right magnet's opto not even 2V.
So, clearly things are amiss. Oddly, all the other opto switches work in test, despite the goofy voltages.
Note: I probably don't need to point this out, but for the record I am a rank amateur repair tech with no experience on machines of this vintage.

Also, in single-switch test for #83 the wires are described in colors that do NOT match the leads to this switch. They are grey and orange/black. These same colors feed the other optos, too.
8EF3A25E-5361-4935-84AC-2C368F3DE092 (resized).jpeg

F45BF26D-E031-4DCF-A556-1722CE43A457 (resized).jpeg
#10598 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Also, in single-switch test for #83 the wires are described in colors that do NOT match the leads to this switch. They are grey and orange/black. These same colors feed the other optos, too.

This is where your manual is going to come in handy.
The colors reported on the display are for the switch row and column. Remember, optos are tied into the Opto board, and there are two pieces per switch (sender, receiver). Pages 3-16 and 3-17 will answer the wire-color issue for you, and will also show you where to check next.

13.77v is a good voltage on 12vu (unregulated).

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

The upper PF's opto switch reads 6.5V and the right magnet's opto not even 2V.

Are you checking the voltages on all the same pieces - all black opto pieces?

The black pieces are the receivers, and since this is the first you mentioned which one you were checking (yes, they operate differently), 13vu is a good voltage there; you can try replacing it and see if it works.

This is assuming, too, that you used your cel-phone camera, aimed it at the emitter (the white one just across) and saw a glow.

#10599 3 months ago

Hi guys. I am having an issue with row 4 in the switch matrix.
Shouldnt switch 74 : gumball popper , show open in test with no ball in it?
Doesnt this switch activate the VUK to the gumball machine?

#10600 3 months ago

Never mind.
74 is an opto so it should be closed.

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