(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

8 years ago


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There are 11,482 posts in this topic. You are on page 210 of 230.
#10451 5 months ago

Does anyone know where I can get high quality cabinet artwork files from? Most of the images I have found online are too low quality to print.

#10452 5 months ago
Quoted from in2kiss:

I bought one of these last year when I gave up on my always acting up original. It took a day or so of adjusting the sensor to the ball in the trough but once I got it dialed in, it works great. Highly recommended.

New to TZ club, so I must admit I lack the context of this discussion... Would you mind elaborating? Seems some boards are going bad after a whole, and the replacement boards are hard to get?

Regards

#10453 5 months ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

New to TZ club, so I must admit I lack the context of this discussion... Would you mind elaborating? Seems some boards are going bad after a whole, and the replacement boards are hard to get?
Regards

We have been discussing Switch 26 which is the trough proximity sensor, that has 2 small boards to detect whether the next ball going into the shooter lane was the power ball - the smaller board had an inductor on it and was placed close to the trough while the main sensing circuit board, that the inductor connected to, was more out of the way. B/W improved the proximity sensor switch throughout the 90's with it being used in various machines however TZ was (possibly??) the first and while it worked there were various issues. Having no micro adjustment on the board to calibrate the sensor meant getting the inductor close enough to reliably sense the ball without it being damaged or crushed by the ball, the connectors had to withstand a lot of vibrations due to its location between the trough and 2 shooter lanes, the board senses frequency changes in the inductor but this can be affected by interference by the near by coils.

Most after market replacement boards (for all boards) look to address any of the short comings in the original design, some will use the latest components while others will balance this with keeping the look of the board the same as the original. And also remember that some electrical components simply weren't designed to run for 30 years. So to your point about boards going bad, yes boards do die however in most cases particularly on the larger more expensive boards the failed components can simply be replaced - for example the high voltage section of the DMD controller board and the capacitors on the power driver board; although sometimes it can be easier to replace a board especially with the smaller less expensive boards (such as the TZ trough proximity sensor to make use of some design improvements) or for example major battery damage on the CPU board. Replacements for the vast majority of boards are available, although the people that make them can vary from time to time. Some people will carry spare boards, such that they can keep the game running while the failed board is repaired however carrying spares for everything is expensive - it really depends upon how many machines you have and whether they are common components across them (I've got a bunch of spare boards and haven't used one yet ... touch wood).

Hope this helps

#10454 5 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

In case of flasher activity*, the door panel flashers are also activated.
(*These 4 flashers)
Upper left insert, GUM -》upper left ramp flasher
Upper right insert, BALL -》upper right ramp flasher
Lower left insert, LOCK 1 -》pop bumpers flasher
Lower right insert, LOCK 2 -》upper right flipper flasher[quoted image]

I just got mine installed, this is awesome! Nice work man.

#10455 5 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

We have been discussing Switch 26 which is the trough proximity sensor, that has 2 small boards to detect whether the next ball going into the shooter lane was the power ball - the smaller board had an inductor on it and was placed close to the trough while the main sensing circuit board, that the inductor connected to, was more out of the way. B/W improved the proximity sensor switch throughout the 90's with it being used in various machines however TZ was (possibly??) the first and while it worked there were various issues. Having no micro adjustment on the board to calibrate the sensor meant getting the inductor close enough to reliably sense the ball without it being damaged or crushed by the ball, the connectors had to withstand a lot of vibrations due to its location between the trough and 2 shooter lanes, the board senses frequency changes in the inductor but this can be affected by interference by the near by coils.
Most after market replacement boards (for all boards) look to address any of the short comings in the original design, some will use the latest components while others will balance this with keeping the look of the board the same as the original. And also remember that some electrical components simply weren't designed to run for 30 years. So to your point about boards going bad, yes boards do die however in most cases particularly on the larger more expensive boards the failed components can simply be replaced - for example the high voltage section of the DMD controller board and the capacitors on the power driver board; although sometimes it can be easier to replace a board especially with the smaller less expensive boards (such as the TZ trough proximity sensor to make use of some design improvements) or for example major battery damage on the CPU board. Replacements for the vast majority of boards are available, although the people that make them can vary from time to time. Some people will carry spare boards, such that they can keep the game running while the failed board is repaired however carrying spares for everything is expensive - it really depends upon how many machines you have and whether they are common components across them (I've got a bunch of spare boards and haven't used one yet ... touch wood).
Hope this helps

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I was reading the various exchanges on this and assumed that this particular board was more prone to failure than others, hence my question.

Regards

#10456 5 months ago

This part was left over in the box after assembling my new TZ playfield.

Does it belong somewhere in the game ... ?

2021-06-15 19.26.45 (resized).jpg
#10457 5 months ago

Finished shopping out my machine.
Everything works well except the lower left flipper.
Starts out strong but warms up and gets weak.
Is this coil wired correctly?

71886962-C38D-49C5-9283-16F19F925134 (resized).jpeg
#10458 5 months ago

Yes. Eos switch working correctly?

#10459 5 months ago

Yes. It is new.

Closes at end of stroke and tests good for continuity when closed.

#10460 5 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Yes. It is new.
Closes at end of stroke and tests good for continuity when closed.

Tests good in switch test also?

#10461 5 months ago

Swap or replace the ooto flipper board on the cabinet. This is a common issue with dirty or failing optos.

Try switching the two boards, and see if the problem also shifts sides.

#10462 5 months ago

Thanks guys.
I will do both tonight.

#10463 5 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Finished shopping out my machine.
Everything works well except the lower left flipper.
Starts out strong but warms up and gets weak.
Is this coil wired correctly?
[quoted image]

It looks to me like the wires running to your end of stroke switch might be making contact with each other.

4BC8E885-2A53-4605-ABB7-2E1EAEA0BA45 (resized).jpeg
#10464 5 months ago

Yeah, it looks that way from that angle but they are not.
I got home too late tonight to dig into it.

#10465 5 months ago
Quoted from hawknole:

Took some closer up pics today…
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Holy shirt!
Mind BLOWN!
Amazing workmanship!
I thought I was working hard on my TZ, but yours is in another league!
Love it!

#10466 5 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Swap or replace the ooto flipper board on the cabinet. This is a common issue with dirty or failing optos.
Try switching the two boards, and see if the problem also shifts sides.

The switch-a-roo trick sorted my game. Try it!

#10467 5 months ago

ISO:
My twin gate assembly that straddles the shooter lanes has shabby flaps. They're rusted/ugly.
Marco has the left flap in black and the right flap in stainless. Not so helpful.
Does anyone out there know of a source for matching flaps? Does Mantis make them?

Also, how does this assembly come apart to access the flaps? I assume the hinge rod slides out, but how? It's confounding!

TZ.gate (resized).jpg
#10468 5 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

ISO:
My twin gate assembly that straddles the shooter lanes has shabby flaps. They're rusted/ugly.
Marco has the left flap in black and the right flap in stainless. Not so helpful.
Does anyone out there know of a source for matching flaps? Does Mantis make them?
Also, how does this assembly come apart to access the flaps? I assume the hinge rod slides out, but how? It's confounding!
[quoted image]

I couldn't work it out! Seems like a complete unit to me. My machine had a Friday afternoon gate, in that it has 2 of the same type of flaps, not one of each type. I just bought another complete unit in the end.

#10469 5 months ago

I had time tonight to dig into left flipper issue.
I turned game on and it booted up.
I wanted to play the LH flipper until it got weak.
When i pressed start i got danger and tilt.
Then i had a clock is broken in reports.

This game played well the other night when i shut it down except for LH flipper got soft .
All 3 tilt switches are open.

#10470 5 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

I had time tonight to dig into left flipper issue.
I turned game on and it booted up.
I wanted to play the LH flipper until it got weak.
When i pressed start i got danger and tilt.
Then i had a clock is broken in reports.
This game played well the other night when i shut it down except for LH flipper got soft .
All 3 tilt switches are open.

Did you do those tests first before playing?

#10471 5 months ago

Yes eos on all 4 flippers are open.
The tilt issue and clock issue may be related to flippers and may not be.
In test the tilt switch was pulsing with it disconnected. I pulled the main harness as it enters the head and the tilt switch opened. I may have some chaffed wires from lifting the playfield so many times

#10472 5 months ago

And the eos all closed when flippers were activated

#10473 5 months ago

I swapped my flipper boards and now the other flipper goes weak! Thank you for the suggestion coyote.

#10474 5 months ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

I couldn't work it out! Seems like a complete unit to me. My machine had a Friday afternoon gate, in that it has 2 of the same type of flaps, not one of each type. I just bought another complete unit in the end.

Your assessment is sound: the assembly doesn't really come apart unless you sheer off the flared end of the hinge rod. You can then put the assembly back together with the original, shorted rod (not ideal) or fabricate a new rod (very challenging). So, not sure where that leaves me. Interesting that your assembly has two left gates. I think that's cool and should be retained.

#10475 5 months ago

Might anybody have the measurements of the wire which connects the bridge diverter to the rod on the coil? Mine is missing, so
I'm going to attempt a DIY rather than pay 15 euro for shipping a single part. I actually have many other parts to order, but have been unable to find a one stop shop for them...

Many thanks.

#10476 5 months ago

I am looking to buy new Flipper Opto boards.

Marco sells the "Gulf Pinball" version and PBL sells the "Home Pin" Version.
I see that the home pin version is more complicated.
Is it worth the extra $$.

I could also just change the optos on my original board but I do not know if it is the 4 pin or 5 pin version. I am in Maine and the game is in Massachusetts. Marco offers the optos as well.
I bet I could get the optos from Allied or Mouser but again do not have numbers.
For $18 it is just easier to buy the Gulf Pinball Opto Board from Marco rather than change optos for $6 each.

Who has used what?

#10477 5 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

but I do not know if it is the 4 pin or 5 pin version

I still run OEM in mine, so I cannot comment about the different replacement boards.
However, the optos are 4-pin version.

#10478 5 months ago

How to Remove Flasher Stack in Back Left?

Manual says it can be "rotated" and freed without lifting the PF out of the cabinet. (Note #6)
Not even close.
Can't make room by freeing the gumball machine first as its anchor screws can't be accessed beneath the flasher stack. Maddening!
Screenshot (47) (resized).pngTZ.back.left (resized).jpg

#10479 5 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Your assessment is sound: the assembly doesn't really come apart unless you sheer off the flared end of the hinge rod. You can then put the assembly back together with the original, shorted rod (not ideal) or fabricate a new rod (very challenging). So, not sure where that leaves me. Interesting that your assembly has two left gates. I think that's cool and should be retained.

It’s cool in some ways, but completely impractical in most others. Just didn’t function properly. I’m amazed the operator and/or previous owners didn’t realise, but it was in private ownership for most of its life, and some folks just don’t see this level of detail.

#10480 5 months ago

If the shaft has those "pinched" stops, you could grind them off with a dremil but i do not have any idea how to recreate them once they are gone.

#10481 5 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

How to Remove Flasher Stack in Back Left?
Manual says it can be "rotated" and freed without lifting the PF out of the cabinet. (Note #6)
Not even close.
Can't make room by freeing the gumball machine first as its anchor screws can't be accessed beneath the flasher stack. Maddening!
[quoted image][quoted image]

I removed the entire backboard and that gave me more room to remove the flashers. I did a complete bulb swap and was able to replace the flashers without removing the gumball. I have removed the gumball and that was a pain, but did twist out like the manual explained.

#10482 5 months ago

Has anyone else removed the metal lamp over the upper playfield. I just put in illuminated star posts on my upper playfield and yanked that ugly thing out.

#10483 5 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Anyone have trouble with LEDs being too tall for the pop bumpers.
Did a full rebuild with everything new.
The 555s fit fine. The LEDs fit in one but not the other two.
All light sockets are the same.
I suspect 2 of the bodies are shorter than the third. One is bright white and the other 2 are not as bright.
Are there 2 heights for pop bodies?

As far as I know, Williams bodies are 1/8" shorter than Stern bodies. No idea on Gottlieb bodies. It's not easy to nest a wedge socket in a Williams body if your cap isn't large/dome'ish. But here's a little tip: a 44 socket actually sits a little lower, so it will afford you a wee-bit more clearance. Or you can just use a Stern body.

#10484 5 months ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

Has anyone else removed the metal lamp over the upper playfield. I just put in illuminated star posts on my upper playfield and yanked that ugly thing out.

Interesting. You removed the beloved lamp above your upper PF? Mod addicts are fond of spending $170 for the lamp with the "Twilight Zone" cut-out. Not you! I would like to remove mine and polish it until it gleams. Then it will be welcome there.

Star-post lights in your upper sounds fly. I was thinking I would try that, too. Gotta order some from Comet, although they're expensive for what you get. I'm excited to personalize the lighting in this TZ. Right now all my time is going into repairs and shopping. I plan on a backboard decal and mirror blades, too.

#10485 5 months ago
Quoted from Mickpat:

I removed the entire backboard and that gave me more room to remove the flashers. I did a complete bulb swap and was able to replace the flashers without removing the gumball. I have removed the gumball and that was a pain, but did twist out like the manual explained.

This turned out to be exactly what I did. It irks me that the manual writer says I can "rotate" it and free it when that's clearly not true. It's helpful for me to have the back panel out, however, as now I can apply the decal easily. I've chose the one from Joey at PinballDecals.com. It basically mimics the front cabinet decal. It's fairly subtle I guess.

I pulled the wireform that feeds the gumball machine to polish it. I polished all the wireforms with bronze wool. Works well. No scratchy!

#10486 5 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

If the shaft has those "pinched" stops, you could grind them off with a dremil but i do not have any idea how to recreate them once they are gone.

That gate assembly is diabolical. If you grind off the flared sides of the peened end, you can get the hinge pin out, and get it back in, but you'll have no way to re-flare it and it will likely just slide out with gameplay. My solution? Leave it alone until I can find a better replacement.

#10487 5 months ago

Gumball Modding: Ideas, Anyone?

I want to spruce up my gumball machine by loading it with some eye-catching spheres. The translite shows pinballs in there - which is fly! Has anyone stuffed full-size pinballs in there? I doesn't like more than one or two would actually fit. What are some common examples of gumball mods for the gumball machine? It doesn't look as though it can be loaded from above. Do I have the right? Must I pull the whole toy and access the tank/jar from underneath?

#10488 5 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Interesting. You removed the beloved lamp above your upper PF? Mod addicts are fond of spending $170 for the lamp with the "Twilight Zone" cut-out. Not you! I would like to remove mine and polish it until it gleams. Then it will be welcome there.
Star-post lights in your upper sounds fly. I was thinking I would try that, too. Gotta order some from Comet, although they're expensive for what you get. I'm excited to personalize the lighting in this TZ. Right now all my time is going into repairs and shopping. I plan on a backboard decal and mirror blades, too.

The lamp is ugly and partially blocks the view of the gumball machine. I'll take a photo once my low profile upper playfield switches are installed and those hideous grey switch cover boxes are gone...

#10489 5 months ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

Has anyone else removed the metal lamp over the upper playfield. I just put in illuminated star posts on my upper playfield and yanked that ugly thing out.

I think most people either add a decal to the original lamp bracket or replace it with one of the after market laser cut versions, but I can see how from a lighting point of view you could replace it altogether by using the illuminated star posts. Post some pics for us

TZ Upper PF Lamp1 (resized).jpgTZ Upper PF Lamp2 (resized).jpg
#10490 5 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Gumball Modding: Ideas, Anyone?
I want to spruce up my gumball machine by loading it with some eye-catching spheres. The translite shows pinballs in there - which is fly! Has anyone stuffed full-size pinballs in there? I doesn't like more than one or two would actually fit. What are some common examples of gumball mods for the gumball machine? It doesn't look as though it can be loaded from above. Do I have the right? Must I pull the whole toy and access the tank/jar from underneath?

I added pachinko balls to mine to give it a similar effect. Looks pretty cool and mimics the backglass to an extent. Takes a lot of balls though, like 60-70 total.

#10491 5 months ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

The lamp is ugly and partially blocks the view of the gumball machine. I'll take a photo once my low profile upper playfield switches are installed and those hideous grey switch cover boxes are gone...

Low-profile switches? No grey hoods? Sounds promising! Share pics when you have them!

#10492 5 months ago
Quoted from atg1469:

I added pachinko balls to mine to give it a similar effect. Looks pretty cool and mimics the backglass to an extent. Takes a lot of balls though, like 60-70 total.

Pachinko, eh? Interesting. If I remember correctly, a Pachinko ball is about the size of the balls used in the lower PF on The Munsters - which is to say, *much* smaller than a pinball. Still, at least they're silver and gleam like pinballs.

I believe they still play Pachinko in Japan. Or is it China?

#10493 5 months ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

I'll take a photo once my low profile upper playfield switches are installed and those hideous grey switch cover boxes are gone...

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Low-profile switches? No grey hoods? Sounds promising! Share pics when you have them!

Love the low profile switches! A little bit of work to install, but well worth it!

IMG_9062 (resized).JPGIMG_9085a (resized).jpg
#10494 5 months ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Love the low profile switches! A little bit of work to install, but well worth it!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Does your upper pf lamp have a diffuser?

#10495 5 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Pachinko, eh? Interesting. If I remember correctly, a Pachinko ball is about the size of the balls used in the lower PF on The Munsters - which is to say, *much* smaller than a pinball. Still, at least they're silver and gleam like pinballs.
I believe they still play Pachinko in Japan. Or is it China?

I used about 25-30 balls in each half. Looks better with the power on and pinbits lights shining down, but took these in a hurry!

2BFF9890-0F4A-4DA5-B833-51A2BA1270FD (resized).jpeg9197C7B7-BBD4-40CF-8B97-5344315F0D52 (resized).jpegDF8DDAA1-F806-46B9-A68B-96FBCFB2A4F5 (resized).jpeg
#10496 5 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Does your upper pf lamp have a diffuser?

Yes, it's actually a carefully folded and taped piece of paper. I was making a template to cut a piece of semi-opaque plastic and the paper looked so good, I left it.

#10497 5 months ago

I fixed my game! A few minor issues left, but it’s playable.

The only thing is… my shooter rod broke and, well, I didn’t have anything else.

24C07DDE-D005-4789-BA8A-83C41C3E150D (resized).jpeg

#10498 5 months ago

Does anyone have a high resolution image file of Twilight Zone's back glass they could share?

#10499 5 months ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Love the low profile switches! A little bit of work to install, but well worth it!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice indeed, where did you get them?

#10500 5 months ago

Does the rubber on the shooter rod protrude beyond the black housing ?
On my game the rubber is well inside the enclosure. The ball bangs on the steel on lame shots in the shooter lane.
Seems like the rubber should be proud of that metal.

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