(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

7 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by Jason_Jehosaphat
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There are 10478 posts in this topic. You are on page 209 of 210.
#10401 14 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Anyone have trouble with LEDs being too tall for the pop bumpers.
Did a full rebuild with everything new.
The 555s fit fine. The LEDs fit in one but not the other two.
All light sockets are the same.
I suspect 2 of the bodies are shorter than the third. One is bright white and the other 2 are not as bright.
Are there 2 heights for pop bodies?

Use bulbs without the dome or bend the socket slightly to the side so they fit.

#10402 13 days ago

Good evening,

The 'diverter' of the upper ramp on my TZ, which allows to block the ball or to allow its passage towards the mini playfield is having issies. It remains locked in the closed position. When the pinball tries to trigger it, a buzz is heard but nothing is triggered.

Obviously when I check the mechanism I don't see anything abnormal. The plunger slides well, I redid the welds (just in case), and when I close it works fine again ... Until the next time

Before I advance in my debug (I feel that I am going to buy probes for my oscilloscope to be installed permanently ...), someone would have an idea?

Thank you

#10403 13 days ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Good evening,
The 'diverter' of the upper ramp on my TZ, which allows to block the ball or to allow its passage towards the mini playfield is having issies. It remains locked in the closed position. When the pinball tries to trigger it, a buzz is heard but nothing is triggered.
Obviously when I check the mechanism I don't see anything abnormal. The plunger slides well, I redid the welds (just in case), and when I close it works fine again ... Until the next time
Before I advance in my debug (I feel that I am going to buy probes for my oscilloscope to be installed permanently ...), someone would have an idea?
Thank you

If it is buzzing, that sounds like the coil is trying to actuate the mechanism. You say everything seems to move fine, so I would start at the coil for the actuator. Check the coil stop, coil sleeve and plunger & link.

#10404 13 days ago
Quoted from hawknole:

Took some closer up pics today…
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

She’s a beaut, Clark!

Really great work.

#10405 13 days ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

When the pinball tries to trigger it, a buzz is heard but nothing is triggered.

Ashram56 I had the exact same problem for a while. The issue for me was that the plunger was not far enough into the coil sleeve at the start of the stroke for the coil to "grab" the plunger magnetically and pull it down. If I moved the diverter just a bit by hand while the coil fired, it would immediately work fine and pull down the plunger.

I fixed it by adding some washers to the activating rod so that the plunger was a bit further into the coil at the relaxed neutral position. (Maybe only 2-3mm). After that mine has worked successfully for the past 3 years.

#10406 12 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

Ashram56 I had the exact same problem for a while. The issue for me was that the plunger was not far enough into the coil sleeve at the start of the stroke for the coil to "grab" the plunger magnetically and pull it down. If I moved the diverter just a bit by hand while the coil fired, it would immediately work fine and pull down the plunger.
I fixed it by adding some washers to the activating rod so that the plunger was a bit further into the coil at the relaxed neutral position. (Maybe only 2-3mm). After that mine has worked successfully for the past 3 years.

Sounds indeed very similar. I can't see any mechanical issue, sleeve is cleaned. I can push by hand easily from the top, so the plunger is not blocked.

Would be interesting to see how you added washers. Attached a picture of the end of the plunger, problem is that I don't quite get where to add washer so the plunger would be slightly more inserted, since I don't have any axis for the washer to be reliably secured (as when the plunger will move down, the washers will get loose) ?

20210607_081126 (resized).jpg
#10407 12 days ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Would be interesting to see how you added washers.

I can take a picture when I get home from work...but here is where I inserted the washer(s). Between the plunger and the metal bracket. It had the result of keeping the plunger a bit further down at it's relaxed state.

20210607_112202 (resized).jpg
#10408 12 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

I can take a picture when I get home from work...but here is where I inserted the washer(s). Between the plunger and the metal bracket. It had the result of keeping the plunger a bit further down at it's relaxed state.
[quoted image]

That's what I assumed. Just wondering the inner diameter of the washer, has to be small to fit the small "pole" connected to the plunger

#10409 12 days ago

Could the "Geneva Switch" error on the gumball machine be caused by a 12V failure (no motor, so no cycling)? My TZ has been out of use for a while because the gumball failure is rendering it unplayable. I noticed a while ago that the flashers also don't work, so maybe it's a board issue? The Driver Board has been doing funny things before, I hate the BRs on the WPC driver board... I'm sorely tempted to invest in a Rottendog replacement board, but only if the problems go away with the replacement.

#10410 12 days ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

Could the "Geneva Switch" error on the gumball machine be caused by a 12V failure (no motor, so no cycling)? My TZ has been out of use for a while because the gumball failure is rendering it unplayable. I noticed a while ago that the flashers also don't work, so maybe it's a board issue? The Driver Board has been doing funny things before, I hate the BRs on the WPC driver board... I'm sorely tempted to invest in a Rottendog replacement board, but only if the problems go away with the replacement.

See this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-no-flashers-and-no-gum-ball-genva-switch-error

#10411 12 days ago

I'm thinking if I upgrade to Pinsound, it will replace the A/V board which I think is the source of the problem. I have ordered new capacitors and will try that tomorrow.

#10412 12 days ago
Quoted from Mickpat:

it will replace the A/V board which I think is the source of the problem

Note that TZ is not a WPC-95 game;l it has two separate boards. One audio, one video.

#10413 11 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Note that TZ is not a WPC-95 game;l it has two separate boards. One audio, one video.

Yes, thanks!

I replaced the two caps C4 & C7 on the video board and this fixed the issue. Thanks Manny65 for the link to the Wiki.

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#10414 11 days ago

How to Free Habit-trail From Right Ramp?

This is a legit disentanglement puzzle.
Can't free it!
Do I squeeze the habit-trail ends to slip the anchor out?
No flexibility there!

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#10415 11 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

How to Free Habit-trail From Right Ramp?
This is a legit disentanglement puzzle.
Can't free it!
Do I squeeze the habit-trail ends to slip the anchor out?
No flexibility there!
[quoted image]

Is it tack welded on?

#10416 11 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Is it tack welded on?

No.
I got it.
Manual says "unhook" and separate.
Whew!
Now time to polish!

#10417 11 days ago

for the triple stacked plastics in the left corner by the gumball, what are the product numbers for the plastic standoff posts?

#10418 10 days ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

for the triple stacked plastics in the left corner by the gumball, what are the product numbers for the plastic standoff posts?

Download the TZ parts list from IPDB - this will show you the specific parts and quantities used in each of the assemblies

#10419 10 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Download the TZ parts list from IPDB - this will show you the specific parts and quantities used in each of the assemblies

I did but did not see the standoffs in the assembly.

Probably just reading it wrong

#10420 10 days ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

I did but did not see the standoffs in the assembly.
Probably just reading it wrong

Here you go.

Screenshot_20210609-204023_Chrome.jpg
#10421 10 days ago

I have a Kruzman cleared reproduction TZ PF and mini for sale. $1200 + shipping, if anybody is looking for one. I was going to do a PF swap but decided it was too much work. I have the wooden crate it was shipped in.

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#10422 10 days ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

I have a Kruzman cleared reproduction TZ PF and mini for sale. $1200 + shipping, if anybody is looking for one. I was going to do a PF swap but decided it was too much work. I have the wooden crate it was shipped in.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Ohhhweeeehohhhweee so shiny

#10423 10 days ago

Hi TZ owners, I’ve got a problem where my game occasionally receives a ball in the gumball machine and doesn’t recognise its there. The game goes into ball search but doesn’t cycle the gumball machine as part of the ball search, so the ball never comes out. The only way to reset the game is to go into gumball test and cycle a ball out that way. The gumball machine has been recently cleansed and reassembled to try and address the fault. No change. The gumball machine has the divider in it. The entry Opto seems to be working normally in test. I’ve spent hours trying to sort this issue out. The fault is only occasional, one every 5-10 entry’s, but it’s a showstopper.

Should the gumball machine be cycling in ball test mode? That would solve the issue.

Has anyone has a similar issue before?

#10424 10 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

Here you go.[quoted image]

I'm very curious, from what document did you get that picture?
I've thought I looked through all the document links for TZ on ipdb.org and can't find that picture at all.

#10425 10 days ago
Quoted from veejay:

Hi TZ owners, I’ve got a problem where my game occasionally receives a ball in the gumball machine and doesn’t recognise its there. The game goes into ball search but doesn’t cycle the gumball machine as part of the ball search, so the ball never comes out. The only way to reset the game is to go into gumball test and cycle a ball out that way. The gumball machine has been recently cleansed and reassembled to try and address the fault. No change. The gumball machine has the divider in it. The entry Opto seems to be working normally in test. I’ve spent hours trying to sort this issue out. The fault is only occasional, one every 5-10 entry’s, but it’s a showstopper.
Should the gumball machine be cycling in ball test mode? That would solve the issue.
Has anyone has a similar issue before?

Go into Gumball Test, set it to "Continuous", and let it run. As long as it will. If there is any error then, it will stop and flag it on the display.

#10426 10 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I'm very curious, from what document did you get that picture?
I've thought I looked through all the document links for TZ on ipdb.org and can't find that picture at all.

Just google searched for that plastic assembly part number, and this engineering drawing was in top 10 results.

#10427 10 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Go into Gumball Test, set it to "Continuous", and let it run. As long as it will. If there is any error then, it will stop and flag it on the display.

I’ve done that and it just seems to cycle endlessly without fault.

Should the gumball machine normally cycle in a typical ball search?

#10428 10 days ago
Quoted from veejay:

I’ve done that and it just seems to cycle endlessly without fault.
Should the gumball machine normally cycle in a typical ball search?

Yes - after a high ball search count. 7? 8? .. I do not remember the exact number right now.
Also, only on later software versions. At LEAST 9.4H. Possibly H-8.

#10429 10 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yes - after a high ball search count. 7? 8? .. I do not remember the exact number right now.
Also, only on later software versions. At LEAST 9.4H. Possibly H-8.

Thanks

#10430 10 days ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

I did but did not see the standoffs in the assembly.
Probably just reading it wrong

Think Davi has helped you out, but thought I'd share how to read the Parts List - the first column indicates the assembly/sub-assembly/component level, followed by the part number, description and quantity used for that particular assembly/sub-assembly. So in the below it shows all the components used in the plastic assembly for the top left hand corner - the assembly itself is marked as Level 2, so everything below it until the next Level 2 item (not shown) is part of that assembly. The components are marked Level 3 however H-16619 (3 bank flasher cable) is actually sub-assembly, so it's components are listed as Level 4. Now you were after the part numbers of the stand-off posts but depending upon the description B/W used that may or may not be obvious, however if unsure you can copy the part number of what you think might be the right one and look it up at Marco's. Also if you are struggling to find availability of a part, searching suppliers for the assembly or sub assembly or sometimes even some of the other parts in the assembly can help find that elusive part.

Another tip if trying to find which suppliers have a part in stock, is to use https://www.pinballsearch.com which will search all the main suppliers around the world.

Hope this helps

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#10431 9 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

There are 2 proximity sensors, one in the trough (A-16534 switch 26) that senses the next ball to be kickout out into the shooter lane and the second one in the subway (A-16535 switch 57) that senses the ball as it passes from the dead end/gumball and camera shots down to the slot machine kickout. Note shots to the piano and slot machine won't go past the sensor. Also if the game hasn't detected the PB in a certain number of games, it assumes the senors aren't working and will automatically play a powerball every 6th (??) ball that is plunged.

Does anyone know if the led on the larger board is supposed to be on or not? Mine switch 26 is failing. resetting the connections isn't fixing.

Isn't there a better fix out there? (and maybe a replacement product)

#10432 9 days ago
Quoted from bikefreak:

Does anyone know if the led on the larger board is supposed to be on or not? Mine switch 26 is failing. resetting the connections isn't fixing.
Isn't there a better fix out there? (and maybe a replacement product)

Break out the soldering iron and solder the wires directly to the pins between the 2 little boards. Your connectors have failed. No need to replace them because they will only fail again. It sounds like a hack but that component needs a rock solid connection to work correctly.

#10433 9 days ago
Quoted from bikefreak:

Does anyone know if the led on the larger board is supposed to be on or not? Mine switch 26 is failing. resetting the connections isn't fixing.
Isn't there a better fix out there? (and maybe a replacement product)

The LED should be off but turns on when it senses a steel ball. If the LED is permanently on, you most likely have a break in the inductor or it's connection. As Mad_Dog_Coin_Op indicated soldering the 2 wires from the inductor board to the larger proximity board will remove a common connectivity issue found with these original boards. Also twist these 2 wires as it helps reduce interference to the frequency that the board is checking for.

Here's a set replacement boards (with an adjustable pot for calibration) if you need https://www.tanglestech.com/Twilight-Zone--Trough-Proximity-Eddy-Sensor--Replaces-A-16534-and-A-16528-Switch-26_p_36.html

#10434 9 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

The LED should be off but turns on when it senses a steel ball. If the LED is permanently on, you most likely have a break in the inductor or it's connection. As Mad_Dog_Coin_Op indicated soldering the 2 wires from the inductor board to the larger proximity board will remove a common connectivity issue found with these original boards. Also twist these 2 wires as it helps reduce interference to the frequency that the board is checking for.
Here's a set replacement boards (with an adjustable pot for calibration) if you need https://www.tanglestech.com/Twilight-Zone--Trough-Proximity-Eddy-Sensor--Replaces-A-16534-and-A-16528-Switch-26_p_36.html

How is shipping to the us? I just ordered

#10435 9 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

How is shipping to the us? I just ordered

Typically 2 weeks however last year was up to 2 months with Covid. I think things have returned more to normal and there's no issue if you use a freight company (eg DHL or FedEx) as they have their own planes, it's a bit more variation using post that I believe heavily leverages commercial passenger flights.

Let us know when you receive it as it'd be interesting to know

#10437 8 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Typically 2 weeks however last year was up to 2 months with Covid. I think things have returned more to normal and there's no issue if you use a freight company (eg DHL or FedEx) as they have their own planes, it's a bit more variation using post that I believe heavily leverages commercial passenger flights.
Let us know when you receive it as it'd be interesting to know

Thanks, I’ll keep you posted

#10439 8 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Break out the soldering iron and solder the wires directly to the pins between the 2 little boards. Your connectors have failed. No need to replace them because they will only fail again. It sounds like a hack but that component needs a rock solid connection to work correctly.

I managed to fix mine while waiting for Tangles to arrive, first fix was to solder wires directly between the boards. That worked for a little while then the opto coupler chip gave in so changed that and been fine ever since with not one error. Have a spare one now from Tangles which looks good.

#10440 8 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I need the sensor too. This is eddy board only

The ad does say "board set", so I think it would have the 2 boards - could always ask

#10441 8 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I need the sensor too. This is eddy board only

Pretty sure Tangles boards are hard wired together.

#10442 8 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

The ad does say "board set", so I think it would have the 2 boards - could always ask

I did ask. It’s just the one board

#10443 8 days ago

I picked up one of the two from the seller this week, this is what it had. Dave was super quick as well.

ED9D231E-4443-442C-9F63-F9C738FB157F (resized).jpeg
#10444 8 days ago
Quoted from 2pupPinz:

I picked up one of the two from the seller this week, this is what it had. Dave was super quick as well.
[quoted image]

Weird!

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#10445 8 days ago

Idk….maybe he thought you meant the subway board too. He did mention he no longer has the game intended for these, so probably just cleaning up his leftover inventory of ‘when I get around to it’ or ‘those are un-obtainium items, better grab one’ stuff….which I need to do lol!

#10446 8 days ago
Quoted from 2pupPinz:

Idk….maybe he thought you meant the subway board too. He did mention he no longer has the game intended for these, so probably just cleaning up his leftover inventory of ‘when I get around to it’ or ‘those are un-obtainium items, better grab one’ stuff….which I need to do lol!

For sure! Oh well I ordered one from Australia now……so I’ll be waiting a bit till it arrives

#10447 8 days ago

I’m sure you will be pleased, as I am, that these are being made. Thank goodness for those that reproduce…nay..make better the games we love.

#10448 8 days ago
Quoted from 2pupPinz:

I’m sure you will be pleased, as I am, that these are being made. Thank goodness for those that reproduce…nay..make better the games we love.

I bought one a couple years ago. The one with the red board. It worked great but I put it on the TZ I sold. So now my keeper TZ board is acting up. I should have known it was going to happen eventually

#10450 8 days ago
Quoted from 2pupPinz:

I picked up one of the two from the seller this week, this is what it had. Dave was super quick as well.
[quoted image]

I bought one of these last year when I gave up on my always acting up original. It took a day or so of adjusting the sensor to the ball in the trough but once I got it dialed in, it works great. Highly recommended.

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