(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

8 years ago


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There are 11426 posts in this topic. You are on page 208 of 229.
#10351 4 months ago
Quoted from hawknole:

Took just over 6 months to get from boxes of parts to finished TZ, plays great, working on tweaking a personal PinSound mix, may release a pure mix in a little while
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great job hawknole - what's the protective plastic on the cabinet decals (last pic)? Did it come on the decals (are they radcals??) or is this something you've applied to protect the artwork while working on the machine?

#10352 4 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Great job hawknole - what's the protective plastic on the cabinet decals (last pic)? Did it come on the decals (are they radcals??) or is this something you've applied to protect the artwork while working on the machine?

Thanks, they are indeed radcals, I left the protective layer on as long as I could.

#10353 4 months ago

TZ Playfield Parts Availability?

I'm looking at a local TZ for sale and when I look over the playfield I see various parts that are oxidized or corroded - perhaps from exposure to moist air over time. Things like the blue, spring-steel ramp flaps, or the stainless ramps themselves, or various posts - they just look a bit "tired" or blotchy or in some cases show actual corrosion, and I wonder if I can tumble them back to life or if I will have to replace them if I end up buying the game. Are these parts available as new reproductions at reasonable prices? If so, from what source? I've checked Marco, Planetary, and PBL. All have a smattering of parts - plastics, for instance - but no stainless ramps.

Thanks in advance.

#10354 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

TZ Playfield Parts Availability?
I'm looking at a local TZ for sale and when I look over the playfield I see various parts that are oxidized or corroded - perhaps from exposure to moist air over time. Things like the blue, spring-steel ramp flaps, or the stainless ramps themselves, or various posts - they just look a bit "tired" or blotchy or in some cases show actual corrosion, and I wonder if I can tumble them back to life or if I will have to replace them if I end up buying the game. Are these parts available as new reproductions at reasonable prices? If so, from what source?
Thanks in advance.

No worries.
General metal post are available almost in every pinball shop - or use a tumbler, or apply nickel plating.
In TZ manual, page 2-46, there is a list of posts.

Metal ramp with flap at Mantis:
https://mantispinball.com/product/twilight-zone-metal-right-ramp/

Screenshot_20210529-172109_Office (resized).jpg
#10355 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

TZ Playfield Parts Availability?
I'm looking at a local TZ for sale and when I look over the playfield I see various parts that are oxidized or corroded - perhaps from exposure to moist air over time. Things like the blue, spring-steel ramp flaps, or the stainless ramps themselves, or various posts - they just look a bit "tired" or blotchy or in some cases show actual corrosion, and I wonder if I can tumble them back to life or if I will have to replace them if I end up buying the game. Are these parts available as new reproductions at reasonable prices? If so, from what source? I've checked Marco, Planetary, and PBL. All have a smattering of parts - plastics, for instance - but no stainless ramps.
Thanks in advance.

You can replace the blue steel flaps from Pinball Resource, cut your own, rivet in. The stainless can be tumbled and/or regrained, Flitz as a finisher. The bigger issue is weldments on the ramps & metals underneath, Mantis makes some.

#10356 4 months ago

Thanks, Davi and Hawknole, for your input.
I'm a little worried about sorting such a complicated machine, but I'm going to give it a shot.
My games to this point have been modern Sterns, although I have done some ambitious modding on them and learned a fair amount about troubleshooting minor issues - thanks mostly to my friend LTG.
Are there reproduction Magna-Flip PF's available? The stock PF has been a bit abused on the right corner by blasts from the upper-right flipper toward the Camera. Is there some kind of Cliffy for that area? The board beneath the Magna-Flip PF has been abused, too. I'm going to need to learn how to cut/rivet replacement ramp flaps I guess. Not sure what gauge spring steel I will need. Do I cut them with tin snips? I have no sheering table, not surprisingly.
The first and most important thing I'm doing is scanning the Service Manual:
https://www.ipdb.org/files/2684/Bally_1993_Twilight_Zone_Operations_Manual_OCR_searchable.pdf
God bless IPDB!

#10357 4 months ago

Legs:

Please advise me on replacement legs. The stock legs are rusty. I can't polish them back to life.
The Service Manual in section 2-3 shows a cabinet parts diagram and C-10843 for the "metal leg assembly."
Looking on Pinball Life for this part number shows leg sets for System-Eleven games, not WPC89. Are these legs sufficiently tall? Standard length should be 28-1/2", correct? No mention in this listing of length.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williams-system-11-chrome-legs-set-of-4.html?Category_Code=

#10358 4 months ago

Has anyone installed this particular repro' mini playfield?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/36-50020-1

What are your thoughts? Junk? Worthwhile? This is the only one I could find. Are there originals kicking around?

#10359 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Legs:
Please advise me on replacement legs. The stock legs are rusty. I can't polish them back to life.
The Service Manual in section 2-3 shows a cabinet parts diagram and C-10843 for the "metal leg assembly."
Looking on Pinball Life for this part number shows leg sets for System-Eleven games, not WPC89. Are these legs sufficiently tall? Standard length should be 28-1/2", correct? No mention in this listing of length.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williams-system-11-chrome-legs-set-of-4.html?Category_Code=

The ribs are wrong on those. Most sites are out of the correct legs for some reason. PBR still has them.

http://www.pbresource.com/legs.html

LEG-28RC

#10360 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

The ribs are wrong on those. Most sites are out of the correct legs for some reason. PBR still has them.
http://www.pbresource.com/legs.html
LEG-28RC

Thank you, Mad Dog. Very helpful!

#10361 4 months ago

Flaky Upper-left Flipper: Please Help Me Troubleshoot

The upper-left flipper works fine in test but usually won't fire during gameplay. If it *does* fire, it does a little flutter. Like, it flips, then semi-flips immediately after, only it happens quickly enough to look like a spasm.

Former owner reseated the connectors in the Flip-tronics board in the head and swapped out the flipper opto for a leaf-switch version. Mind you, the "new" flipper switch is not simply a leaf switch as it accepts the connector that a flipper opto board would, etc. I would post a photo here but the machine isn't handy. It's kind of a hybrid thing. Perhaps it doesn't belong, but the flipper didn't work with the stock opto either. Will it be necessary to replace the Flip-tronics board in the head? If so, are they available and at what cost?

How else should I chase the problem? I have a multi-meter if that's called for.

Thanks in advance.

#10362 4 months ago

Lever-Guide Assembly Availability?

The Service Manual shows part #A-9174-4 for the lockdown receiver bar assembly. Marco is out of stock of A-9174-1. Is the "4" for widebody and the "1" for standard-body, or do wide- and standard body games use the same receiver?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/D-9174-1

detail (resized).jpg
#10363 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Flaky Upper-left Flipper: Please Help Me Troubleshoot
The upper-left flipper works fine in test but usually won't fire during gameplay. If it *does* fire, it does a little flutter. Like, it flips, then semi-flips immediately after, only it happens quickly enough to look like a spasm.
Former owner reseated the connectors in the Flip-tronics board in the head and swapped out the flipper opto for a leaf-switch version. Mind you, the "new" flipper switch is not simply a leaf switch as it accepts the connector that a flipper opto board would, etc. I would post a photo here but the machine isn't handy. It's kind of a hybrid thing. Perhaps it doesn't belong, but the flipper didn't work with the stock opto either. Will it be necessary to replace the Flip-tronics board in the head? If so, are they available and at what cost?
How else should I chase the problem? I have a multi-meter if that's called for.
Thanks in advance.

If you go into switch test mode and then press the left flipper - it should be staged such that first the lower flipper switch is activated and then as you press the button in further the upper flipper switch is activated. When holding the button in do you get any flutting on the upper flipper switch? This will help determine if the issue is associated with your flipper switches or not

#10364 4 months ago

Thanks, Manny.
Pressing the left flipper button in test mode fires only the bottom left flipper.
No stage, no nothing from the upper.

#10365 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Thanks, Manny.
Pressing the left flipper button in test mode fires only the bottom left flipper.
No stage, no nothing from the upper.

Here's some info to help https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#FlipTronics_Games_Electrical_Reasons

It's probably worth checking that the fliptronics board and upper flipper are working correctly, as well as the connectivity between the flipper switches and the headbox

#10366 4 months ago

I'd check the coil for the flipper. With the "fluttering" you describe it sounds to me like there might be a break in the coil's wiring. Either repair or replace the coil and that might help.

#10367 4 months ago

Thanks, Manny, for the link. I will do some reading there.
Thanks, Scotty, for your suggestion regarding the coil itself. I don't have a replacement coil, but I can order one from PinballResource.
Today I will swap out the Fliptronics board for one that comes from another machine whose flippers are working properly. That will help me rule out my board if nothing else.

#10368 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Thanks, Manny, for the link. I will do some reading there.
Thanks, Scotty, for your suggestion regarding the coil itself. I don't have a replacement coil, but I can order one from PinballResource.
Today I will swap out the Fliptronics board for one that comes from another machine whose flippers are working properly. That will help me rule out my board if nothing else.

If possible, try to switch ribbon cables as well.
I had a DM that had trouble with the upper left flipper and the ribbon cable was the culprit.

#10369 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Flaky Upper-left Flipper: Please Help Me Troubleshoot
The upper-left flipper works fine in test but usually won't fire during gameplay. If it *does* fire, it does a little flutter. Like, it flips, then semi-flips immediately after, only it happens quickly enough to look like a spasm.
Former owner reseated the connectors in the Flip-tronics board in the head and swapped out the flipper opto for a leaf-switch version. Mind you, the "new" flipper switch is not simply a leaf switch as it accepts the connector that a flipper opto board would, etc. I would post a photo here but the machine isn't handy. It's kind of a hybrid thing. Perhaps it doesn't belong, but the flipper didn't work with the stock opto either. Will it be necessary to replace the Flip-tronics board in the head? If so, are they available and at what cost?
How else should I chase the problem? I have a multi-meter if that's called for.
Thanks in advance.

I had similar and ended up replacing the flipper opto board and that fixed it. You can switch left and right boards and see if problem follows to rule out the board if that's not it.

#10370 4 months ago
Quoted from awesome1:

I had similar and ended up replacing the flipper opto board and that fixed it. You can switch left and right boards and see if problem follows to rule out the board if that's not it.

Yes; I support this approach. That way you can definitely see if the opto board is the culprit. I had a similar issue in my TZ, and I switched the opto boards. As the problem continued, I was at least able to rule out the board. That's when I found a broken wire in the winding on the coil, which I was able to repair.

#10371 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Thanks, Manny, for the link. I will do some reading there.
Thanks, Scotty, for your suggestion regarding the coil itself. I don't have a replacement coil, but I can order one from PinballResource.
Today I will swap out the Fliptronics board for one that comes from another machine whose flippers are working properly. That will help me rule out my board if nothing else.

Hey Jason - can you post a pic of your flipper switch as you mentioned that the original opto board had been swapped out for a hybrid leaf switch that had the original cable connector plugging into it. I have leaf replacements on a few of my machines, but curious what this switch looks like

#10372 4 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Hey Jason - can you post a pic of your flipper switch as you mentioned that the original opto board had been swapped out for a hybrid leaf switch that had the original cable connector plugging into it. I have leaf replacements on a few of my machines, but curious what this switch looks like

Hi.
I will have to photograph that oddball switch later. I've returned from the site where the game is, so I can't lay a hand on that switch for the time being. Sorry.

#10373 4 months ago
Quoted from awesome1:

I had similar and ended up replacing the flipper opto board and that fixed it. You can switch left and right boards and see if problem follows to rule out the board if that's not it.

Thanks, Awesome1, for your suggestion.
Before I tried this, I borrowed a Fliptronics board from another TZ whose flippers work. No luck. Then I swapped out the funky switch for a proper flipper opto. Still no luck. Then I swapped the two optos, side to side, and, inexplicably, this solved the problem. Not surprisingly, I had lots of help from LTG. He even gave me some new 555's and a few 906's to start me on my cleaning/bulbing of the machine.
Thanks to all of you who listened and made suggestions. I appreciate it. On to the next issue!

#10374 4 months ago

V-Pad Kicker Accuracy Issue: Suggestions Sought

When I soft plunge for the SS on this game and the ball trickles into the kicker, it will rarely get launched properly up into the Camera shot. It bricks off whatever's close instead. Can this kicker be tuned up so that it launches the ball accurately? In the diagram below, you can see there are few parts to the mech. Where is its adjustability? I see none. Does it make sense to replace parts 1, 2, and 3? Will that tighten up the action of the armature?

Screenshot (46) (resized).jpg
#10375 4 months ago

Mantis pinball sells the metal flaps pre cut.

#10376 4 months ago

So, I’m thinking of putting radicals on my TZ. Any thoughts on how this product looks on a TZ? Is it a significant improvement if you do not have a great deal of fade?

Still thinking of putting in the Pinsound board as well. I wish it just had an upgraded version of the original music of the machine upgraded and improved with more depth and what not. Interested in testing different packages though, is there a clear leader?

#10377 4 months ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

So, I’m thinking of putting radicals on my TZ. Any thoughts on how this product looks on a TZ? Is it a significant improvement if you do not have a great deal of fade?
Still thinking of putting in the Pinsound board as well. I wish it just had an upgraded version of the original music of the machine upgraded and improved with more depth and what not. Interested in testing different packages though, is there a clear leader?

hawknole posted his resto the other day that has radcals on it and they looked great https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/207#post-6306795

#10378 4 months ago

Love the door mod above..nice work!
Would like to use something similar to highlight my custom translite stars.
Need a recent pic as changed some things. Here was the proto..

20200727_164529 (resized).jpg
#10379 4 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

hawknole posted his resto the other day that has radcals on it and they looked great https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/207#post-6306795

I like the radcals, 3rd set I installed during restores. You have to be careful with positioning, I end up with a small space at the bottom lip of the cabinet, no big deal because I paint black but they are much easier to install than normal decals.

As for PinSound, the DCS Granner mix is out there and different, the Re-orchestration has a higher fidelity. If you want stereo then wiring & speakers will need to be changed.

#10380 4 months ago
Quoted from hawknole:

As for PinSound, the DCS Granner mix is out there and different, the Re-orchestration has a higher fidelity. If you want stereo then wiring & speakers will need to be changed

Do they have a guide of some kind for the changes needed for stereo sound and is it worth doing for TZ? How good is the re-orchestration?

#10381 4 months ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

Do they have a guide of some kind for the changes needed for stereo sound and is it worth doing for TZ? How good is the re-orchestration?

This is all up to you, you have to weigh the cost. One person will tell you there is a huge difference with upgraded PinSound and another will say it is not worth it. If your original sound board dies it is a no brainer for me. The original sound boards do fetch a good dollar if still working. Not sure what is going on with that other sound board “kit” but wouldn’t mind checking it out. The PinSound build quality is top notch, they make nice hardware.

PinSound sells 2.1 speaker wiring & updated speakers but you can get speakers anywhere, I think they should be 4 ohm, don’t quote me. Flipper Fidelity & Pinball Pro sell stereo speaker upgrades as well. The holes and mounting can be a pain as you need to reconfigure the speaker panel and cut a bigger hole on the one side & worry about the right size speakers, etc. If you decide to go the upgrade route, I would suggest a PinSound Plus board, not the NEO and to keep your mono setup as it is decent and just go with an alternate mix. I prefer the DCS Granner mix & actually have a personal mix I am working on. The re-orchestration is in stereo, but again, I would not jump to all that, incremental steps. To make it even more confusing you may be able to download the mixes from the PinSound website and listen to the differences, this would take hours but is possible.

#10382 4 months ago

Hi, who makes TZ stainless ramp flaps? Pinbits doesn't seem in business anymore...

#10383 4 months ago
Quoted from Piso:

Hi, who makes TZ stainless ramp flaps? Pinbits doesn't seem in business anymore...

Mantis makes them - https://mantispinball.com/product-category/twilight-zone/

#10384 4 months ago

Today the DMD screen on my TZ started to scroll / flicker as shown here.

I have checked to ensure all of the ribbon cables are secured by pushing in on all the connectors. Nothing has changed. Maybe its time to upgrade to a color screen. Any ideas?

#10385 4 months ago
Quoted from hawknole:

Took just over 6 months to get from boxes of parts to finished TZ, plays great, working on tweaking a personal PinSound mix, may release a pure mix in a little while
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Super impressive!

#10386 4 months ago
Quoted from Mickpat:

Today the DMD screen on my TZ started to scroll / flicker as shown here. I have checked to ensure all of the ribbon cables are secured by pushing in on all the connectors. Nothing has changed. Maybe its time to upgrade to a color screen. Any ideas?

This looks very similar to the WPC-95 "Rolling" Horizontal Line, so possibly a failed capacitor on your DMD controller

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#.22Rolling.22_Horizontal_Line_on_WPC-95_Display

#10387 4 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

This looks very similar to the WPC-95 "Rolling" Horizontal Line, so possibly a failed capacitor on your DMD controller
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#.22Rolling.22_Horizontal_Line_on_WPC-95_Display

Yes it does. Thank you.

#10388 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Has anyone installed this particular repro' mini playfield?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/36-50020-1
What are your thoughts? Junk? Worthwhile? This is the only one I could find. Are there originals kicking around?

CPR has mini playfields and their reputation is excellent.

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-miscellaneous/tz-powerfield/

#10389 4 months ago

Happy new owner of a very nice TZ, fully packed with mods, pinsound, shaker, new decals, topper, etc...

So anyway, I just wanted to inquire on two points I'm rather curious about:

- how does the game detect the powerball is in play. It seems to be able to detect at multiple locations
- one point which bothers me is that you don't really start from scratch each game, since the powerball can be at different location (either in the gumball or in the trough). Is there any way to work around that behavior (can't see how, but you never know)

Regards

#10390 4 months ago

Just think of the power ball as a progressive jackpot. There is no way around it unless you ad a second power ball to the game. As for power ball detection, there is a metal detector in the ball eject area and a couple under the playfield. If the switch is activated and the game doesn’t detect metal it assumes the power ball is in play.

#10391 4 months ago

Ha, fixed that issue in my new version of TZ. I now have the PB reload back into the gumball machine when it drains. Not a great idea to keep it out. Makes getting PB mania much more rewarding. I also added 2 extra Powerballs to the game, that only appear during Powerball Mania. Yes, 3 Powerballs in play. Hey, it's Twilight Zone - expect the unexpected.

TZ is the best pin of all time and new code makes it even better....only in the digital world of pinball though, where the game is expanding far beyond the limitations of its real-world counterpart.

#10392 4 months ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

- how does the game detect the powerball is in play. It seems to be able to detect at multiple locations

There are 2 proximity sensors, one in the trough (A-16534 switch 26) that senses the next ball to be kickout out into the shooter lane and the second one in the subway (A-16535 switch 57) that senses the ball as it passes from the dead end/gumball and camera shots down to the slot machine kickout. Note shots to the piano and slot machine won't go past the sensor. Also if the game hasn't detected the PB in a certain number of games, it assumes the senors aren't working and will automatically play a powerball every 6th (??) ball that is plunged.

#10393 4 months ago
Quoted from Mickpat:

Today the DMD screen on my TZ started to scroll / flicker as shown here. I have checked to ensure all of the ribbon cables are secured by pushing in on all the connectors. Nothing has changed. Maybe its time to upgrade to a color screen. Any ideas?

ColorDMD time?

#10394 4 months ago
Quoted from SLAMT1LT:

Ha, fixed that issue in my new version of TZ. I now have the PB reload back into the gumball machine when it drains. Not a great idea to keep it out. Makes getting PB mania much more rewarding. I also added 2 extra Powerballs to the game, that only appear during Powerball Mania. Yes, 3 Powerballs in play. Hey, it's Twilight Zone - expect the unexpected.
TZ is the best pin of all time and new code makes it even better....only in the digital world of pinball though, where the game is expanding far beyond the limitations of its real-world counterpart.

Took me a few secs to connect the dots, then I read your pseudo and it clicks So when can we expect these new FP tables, hmmm

#10395 4 months ago

Source for replacement right-side flipper-return ballguide? Need only the stainless, not the whole assembly (A-16203-1).

Checked Marco's, PBR, PBL, and Planetary.
Any suggestions?

Thanks.

75F4AB61-E912-4A47-997E-FC94AD87D270 (resized).jpeg

#10397 4 months ago

if you have the part number google it.
I believe that part is used on multiple games and if so you may snag in on EPAY or possibly somewhere else.
But start by googling the number

#10398 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Source for replacement right-side flipper-return ballguide? Need only the stainless, not the whole assembly (A-16203-1).
Checked Marco's, PBR, PBL, and Planetary.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
[quoted image]

Check with Cliff @ passionforpinball.com aka Cliffy

#10399 4 months ago

Took some closer up pics today…

3A250B95-51DE-4FEF-A2A4-29C11C4FED68 (resized).jpeg61F92914-4467-4B25-9E31-79B6DDCFBACC (resized).jpeg6F2F633A-B26B-4B78-B9DA-D5024993C009 (resized).jpeg86D7B13D-DE2E-4862-813E-2695075F52ED (resized).jpeg8F579C9D-ADE2-4B29-94EC-43DB88894770 (resized).jpeg9D7DE175-BA72-4D56-99D9-A6AFC54E6D9E (resized).jpegCC423AE5-C134-4EE0-ACC3-32CF1AF81A10 (resized).jpegECACAE86-183A-44F4-96BD-564FFB4BF817 (resized).jpeg
#10400 4 months ago

Anyone have trouble with LEDs being too tall for the pop bumpers.
Did a full rebuild with everything new.
The 555s fit fine. The LEDs fit in one but not the other two.
All light sockets are the same.
I suspect 2 of the bodies are shorter than the third. One is bright white and the other 2 are not as bright.
Are there 2 heights for pop bodies?

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