Thank you for your honest review! Much appreciated. You have potentially saved your fellow pinsiders some hard earned money!

I guess I’ll try the other guy on eBay that has this plastic for sale.

Thanks for the picture.

I had and fixed this issue. See post 10157

Brilliant and way better then my black tape on the back of the minute hand. I will be doing your conversion.

I find it off the new one's are shorter then the originals. Is it typical in the pin world for remakes to be so different.

I gotta step up and learn the search function better

I tried the same thing first, and then a tiny piece of a playing card thinking it would be more rigid. It lasted about ten games and fell off. This has held up for a few hundred games now and I really can't see it failing, there is no real stress caused by it
I hadn't realized the optos were at a different spacing. I just figured my game had extra play in the gears, but I guess it's a good thing the play is there to allow this adjustment.

Damn, yzfguy you should be getting paid royalties for this fix by now! As someone that's greatly benefited from this mod, I can 100% vouch for its validity! The post he used is by far the best fix I've found as well; however, I will tell you it took me 2 different tries to get it right and not mess up the clear plastic cover by accidentally smearing the glue. It dries really quick and I couldn't remove the excess glue, which resulted in a rather distracting mess. Thankfully the covers are only $5 and the posts are only a few cents, so I ordered a few expecting I'd fuck it up! Just take your time and I'm sure you'll be happy with the end result!

I think I am having the same problem. I recently installed the new casper clock board, and a new minute hand too and sometimes the top opto fails to be detected and the clock stops. If this keeps happening, I am going to try and add small a small heat sink to the minute hand to extend the arm so it passes over the opto consistently.

What is the measurement of your opto from the board to the top of the opto?

Heat shrink, tape and cardboard all failed for me. They eventually rub on the opto bracket and break off or jam.

Yzfguy: attach a pic of the post YOU used on this.
After i fitted my clock with a standard playfield post i realized you used a post like the ones above the slot machine.

I do not like to speak badly of anyone.
My warning of Classic Arcades is based on my High Speed restoration.
CA sells "Hot Stamped" pop bumper covers for HS. They are not hot stamped, simply printed.

Attached is a photo of HS slings i bought from him at Allentown. I found the color difference unacceptable.
If there were absolutely no other options, his stuff is fantastic.

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I used one of these tiny posts. I had a clear one like this one (seen next to the raptor pit on JP). I cut the tip of the pointed part (above the small rubber in this pic) off with a pair of snips. And glued the flat part on the plastic, so that only the point is touching the center pin of the clock where the hands are attached.

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Everyone has different experiences. The upvote & downvote button is there for just that reason. It's not a "Bible" LOL. Reproduction translites and speaker panels are just what they are- imitations of the original, therefore they will never be the original. To expect that they would be is setting the bar too high, and setting yourself up for disappointment. IMO. If it's really that important to be exactly like the original, then hold out for an original to pop up somewhere.

Normally what you say is true but when vendors flat out lie like Classic Arcades they need to be called out. This photo was taken from thier current TZ speaker panel listing.

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Looking through the club, saw that someone used some star post lights on the mini playfield. I decided to go a bit further.

Lit up all the main star posts, all to GI. For the upper pf, I used glow in the dark star posts and wired the post lights to the Battle the Power insert. I thought the glow in the dark posts would stand out more, but not really.

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Looks good

I like reading about owners fixing their clocks. I have seen other threads where people say their clock is broken and they have no intent to fix. Many times people state it’s a useless “toy” that’s why they don’t waste time fixing it. SMH....

Speaking of clocks, I no longer see an add in the marketplace for Ingo's clock boards. Has he stopped producing them? I know he has become non-responsive lately but I wonder if it is over for those clock boards.

If anyone has an extra they may be willing to sell please ping me.

I reached out multiple times to no avail. By all accounts that I've heard, he is in fact done but without speaking to the man himself it's all hearsay at this point.

Glad I got his board while I could. But it also sounds like there are viable alternatives out there. Maybe that's why he's not selling them anymore, the market is saturated and he already catered to a lot of the collectors.

In terms of viable alternatives, which ones work with the LED OCD GI board? Did people get the Gameroom board (available from Marco) to work with it?

It will work, but you'll need to swap the GI pins in one of the clock connectors.

Thanks. Are there specific instructions for that anywhere?

Not very fancy , but the Casper Electronics board works well.
You may have the use the yzfguy mod.

I just turned on my TZ and got an error message. It says I should check the EOS (End of travel switch?) on 3 of the four flippers (LL, LR, UR). However, when I play everything seems just fine. Seems unlikely all three broke overnight, anyone know what might be causing this?

Found the problem, a wire came loose on the upper left flipper which was connected to the rest of the flipper switches.

So I need a little help / advice on this.

There were a couple added lights that didn’t work when I got the game, one led strip in the back corner and a single spotlight hangin loose under the gum ball. They were separately tapped into two GI bulb sockets with weak or broken solder joints. I pulled those wires off the bulbs, spliced them together into alligator clips to test them, remounted the spotlight where I wanted it, and had them on a GI bulb in the back left corner.

After that point, the game would reboot on occasion when I shot the right ramp and activated the diverter, or the lock shot pop-out, or the piano shot.

Figuring I had caused a voltage issue, I took off the alligator clip and the reboots seem to have stopped.

So I am trying to find a way to hook those lights up without causing issues......this TZ has this speaker wire spliced into the back box for power to a led strip under the mini play field. The led lights up immediately when I turn the game on and is powered outside of the normal GI connections. Anyone recognize this or know what I am looking at here? I am tempted to tap this power to run the other lights, but don’t want to cause any major issues with any back box boards or components.

What I know about this machine is someone in the Minneapolis area did most of the mods / upgrades and then it was with a couple different owners in Chicago before finding me.

Thanks in advance!

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For future reference, Flippers would still work fine, but coils would be at full power when cradling the ball which could cause heat issues (never had it happen but they are there for a reason!). EOS just tells the coil to go to less power.

Hi Guys,
I would like to brighten up the back of the TZ play field and also add a decal to the back board and maybe the sides. Can someone advise me on what kind of lighting to use and what kind of decals to get please.

Thanks
Litz

I just added a set of pingraffix pinblades to my POTC and while it wasn’t easy with the PF in the material is VERY robust and forgiving and I got a good result.

Gotta admit tho I don’t love the styling of their TZ ones. They’re okay I guess.

Mine already had this decal. I just added an 8 inch white led strip under the glass channel.

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It’s not for everyone but I love the look of the full spiral treatment!

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Spiral decal with dual color (red and blue) backboard. It as washed out as the pic suggests.

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This looks great. Love the 2 colored back board.

Or get the interactive blackboard.

By 86 pixels

Shouldn't the Fliptronics board automatically switch from power to hold after some seconds? It's not ideal, but still a failsafe measure.

Guess it was more about keeping the cost down and that they were only designed to have a life of 3-5 years so the EOS switch was simple and effective

Yes. If the Fliptronic board (actually, game ROM) does not see the EOS switch close, it will cut high-power, leaving hold coil energized. The EOS switch is more used for flipper knock-downs. EOS reopens, reenable the Power Coil. If no EOS switch, the flipper bat will fall.

Thanks, I did know this but thought it was weird all three "broke" overnight. I didn't realize they were wired in series which made sense when I found the broken wire on the first flipper.

That looks great, but it begs the question why you still have a TV mod blocking the view of a significant portion of it?

I’d get rid of the TV and the plane. Put that display on full reveal.

Wow. That's an incredible interactive back board. Do you need a separate power supply?

Good to know, still learning

I am planning to get an Eight Ball Deluxe and Twilight Zone when I find the right excellent highly restored HEP or HEP like machine. It has been 15 years since I last added machines. I am looking forward to being a member of the club. I am trying to educate myself to see what I would want, and 206 pages of information on this 1 thread alone will take some time. When i purchased my other machines (mostly wedgeheads), it was just all about the backglass, cabinet, playfield, and mechanical condition. I never opted for the polished chrome so far, but I think it would look nice on my Funhouse.

I think what I will want is those same things, and as for any mods, invisiglass (or a different brand) to help see the ball, and any lighting changes that will make it easy for me to see the ball. I find all of these other mods interesting. It is new to me. I worry that if there are too many things on the playfield like TVs etc., it will be a distraction when playing, but I may be wrong. Sound enhancement would be nice. I do like Golden Earring. Anyhow, thank you all for the information.

I too went for the dual Red and blue LED strips on the backboard
I have also installed mirror blades and the spiral decal on the BB

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That looks beautiful. I think that's what I will do. Was it easy to connect? I assume you just use an alligator clip to the general illumination for the lighting. Stupid question but how do you know which wires are the GI ones? Thanks very much.

GI is an abbreviation for general illumination. So look for the wires that are attached to the bulbs that generally illuminate the game. No flashers or blinking lights. Like the bulbs under the plastics for instance. Hope that helps

One of my magnets in the Power Playfield seems weak but is functioning. Before I just go ahead and replace it I was wondering if anyone had any experience or advice on this. Seems odd to me that an electromagnetic would be weak, seems like it would either work or not.

It helped in my case. Both of my magnet coils got weaker as time went on, to the point where the fuse on the power driver board would blow whenever my "Battle the Power" lasted the full duration. I order two new magnet coils from Marco about a year ago, replaced them and all is good now.

Okay thanks, I will try that.

Thanks that helps a lot.