While tearing down my TZ I noticed that under the ramps there is some double sided tape without the protective film removed. Don't know why. Should I replaced it after the playfiled restoration?
IMG_20210325_183500 (resized).jpgQuoted from Piso:While tearing down my TZ I noticed that under the ramps there is some double sided tape without the protective film removed. Don't know why. Should I replaced it after the playfiled restoration?
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Yes mine was the same when I tore it down. I didn't replace it (was told it wasn't needed) but interested to see what others have to say
Quoted from Manny65:Yes mine was the same when I tore it down. I didn't replace it (was told it wasn't needed) but interested to see what others have to say
Same, I just left the old stuff in place. Anyone know why they put it there?
Quoted from yzfguy:A bunch of posts back, I explained my fix for what sounds like the same issue, the optos aren't being interrupted by the hands. If you push back on them a little to hold them in place, they may work. I put a spacer on the inside of the clear clock covet to hold them in place
Can you explain to me where you placed the spacer and what size spacer you may have use? I've troubleshooted this a bit more and the problem is most definitely the fact that the gear as moving slightly out of position after a few rotations, so if I could get them to stay in place it should do the trick.
Quoted from atg1469:Can you explain to me where you placed the spacer and what size spacer you may have use? I've troubleshooted this a bit more and the problem is most definitely the fact that the gear as moving slightly out of position after a few rotations, so if I could get them to stay in place it should do the trick.
Quoted from yzfguy:sure, it took me hours of aggravation and different ideas also, but this one has held up for hundreds of games.
I pushed back on the center of the hands ( on the center pin) and guestimated how much slack was in there. Then I found a small clear post in my bag of everything, and cut it to my guesstimated length. I super glued it dead center on the clear plastic cover piece, so it lines up with the center point of the hands. You can tighten/loosen the four screws holding this piece on as needed to adjust it. I didn't want it actually pushing the hands in, just holding them in place for fear of wearing something out. Once it's on, you would never notice it... That's why I chose clear plastic, and that cover piece isn't that expensive if you screw up.
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It's a clever idea! You said it held up for "hundreds of games" so is it safe to assume that it eventually failed and you just glued it back on?
Quoted from atg1469:It's a clever idea! You said it held up for "hundreds of games" so is it safe to assume that it eventually failed and you just glued it back on?
Thank you ! My first idea was to extend the little interrupters on the back of the hands. I tried all kinds of things that all failed, then thought this might work.
No, I mean it's been hundreds of games and still going strong
Finished up a shop out and now the ball is bouncing off of the diverter and the diverter is actuating before the ball gets back to it. What is the issue/fix for this? Thanks!
Quoted from mikusm:Finished up a shop out and now the ball is bouncing off of the diverter and the diverter is actuating before the ball gets back to it. What is the issue/fix for this? Thanks!
This is a common issue - you can stop the metal balls bouncing by adding a magnet to the diverter (won't stop the power ball bouncing back). You'll find posts in this thread showing what people have done themselves or you can buy this one https://pinballpro.net/shop/twilight-zone-diverter-magnet-tz-dm/
Quoted from drummermike:May be there to cushion the plastic from cracking.
It's also under the metal ramps. I will not replace them, they look cheap.
maybe a silly question but i'll ask anyway:
is everyone here absolutely using the factory recommended AE-24-900 coil for the slot machine scoop kick-out?
or as anyone toyed with putting the slightly more powerful coil (AE-23-800) to have a more direct/punchy kick-out to the right flipper?
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:maybe a silly question but i'll ask anyway:
is everyone here absolutely using the factory recommended AE-24-900 coil for the slot machine scoop kick-out?
or as anyone toyed with putting the slightly more powerful coil (AE-23-800) to have a more direct/punchy kick-out to the right flipper?
Factory for me. This game is hard enough!
Quoted from BrianZ:Factory for me. This game is hard enough!
hehe yes for sure.
actually I meant that more because i feel like my slot machine kick out becomes a bit inconsistent after a while. and all of sudden some balls start hitting the right slingshot.
Turns out I had the exact same "issue" on my Funhouse pin and by replacing the factory coil by one just slightly more powerful, it never happened again: direct punchy kick out to the right flipper (but still totally manageable).
So am wondering if I were to do the same thing, just tuning up the coil power, i would have a consistent direct kick out "every single time" to the right flipper.
Right now i'd say it's 18 out of 20 times on average.
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:hehe yes for sure.
actually I meant that more because i feel like my slot machine kick out becomes a bit inconsistent after a while. and all of sudden some balls start hitting the right slingshot.
Turns out I had the exact same "issue" on my Funhouse pin and by replacing the factory coil by one just slightly more powerful, it never happened again: direct punchy kick out to the right flipper (but still totally manageable).
So am wondering if I were to do the same thing, just tuning up the coil power, i would have a consistent direct kick out "every single time" to the right flipper.
Right now i'd say it's 18 out of 20 times on average.
Have you checked the metal for cracks in the welds or loose fastening screws for the vuk itself? Seems like you have some slack somewhere, giving you inconsistent ball-paths.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:Have you checked the metal for cracks in the welds or loose fastening screws for the vuk itself? Seems like you have some slack somewhere, giving you inconsistent ball-paths.
I am thinking the same thing. Not saying my scoop is in good shape, but it is very consistent in where it delivers the ball. By chance, could you have broken a weld? And assuming you needed a little more punch from the coil, could you not just remove a few loops of wire off the coil? A little soldering, but would not cost you anything.
Cheers to yours answers guys.
Well, there is no (apparent) broken weld.
However, YES the screws may be the issue: it's not that they are loose so to speak (they aren't) but more that they turn in a vaccum.
I have a pre-series TZ and there are 3x screws (i think the "normal" TZ have 2). well the middle screw is fine. however the other two, although not loose (can't turn them with my fingers for instance), turn in a vaccum if I am to use a screwdriver on them.
I have tried filling the holes with toothpicks many times and it works great, but after a little while, back to square one: I have to fil in the holes once again, re-tight the screws and the kick out is perfecft for a while...until next time.
it's not a killer, just a bit annoying to have to pop up the hood after every other game to do this procedure
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:Cheers to yours answers guys.
Well, there is no (apparent) broken weld.
However, YES the screws may be the issue: it's not that they are loose so to speak (they aren't) but more that they turn in a vaccum.
I have a pre-series TZ and there are 3x screws (i think the "normal" TZ have 2). well the middle screw is fine. however the other two, although not loose (can't turn them with my fingers for instance), turn in a vaccum if I am to use a screwdriver on them.
I have tried filling the holes with toothpicks many times and it works great, but after a little while, back to square one: I have to fil in the holes once again, re-tight the screws and the kick out is perfecft for a while...until next time.
it's not a killer, just a bit annoying to have to pop up the hood after every other game to do this procedure
Sounds like it is time to drill out the playfield holes and wood glue in the appropriate sized wood dowel. Make sure you don’t drill to deep. I always mark my bits with tape. Glue in the dowel, let it dry, sand it flush and then re-drill with a 3/32 bit to create a new pilot hole. Should be good as new after that.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Sounds like it is time to drill out the playfield holes and wood glue in the appropriate sized wood dowel. Make sure you don’t drill to deep. I always mark my bits with tape. Glue in the dowel, let it dry, sand it flush and then re-drill with a 3/32 bit to create a new pilot hole. Should be good as new after that.
thanks a lot !!!
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Sounds like it is time to drill out the playfield holes and wood glue in the appropriate sized wood dowel. Make sure you don’t drill to deep. I always mark my bits with tape. Glue in the dowel, let it dry, sand it flush and then re-drill with a 3/32 bit to create a new pilot hole. Should be good as new after that.
I have a similar issue in that on the left ramp the right screw is raised slightly and will not screw in. I was thinking of filling the hole with Quickwood. Is the dowel approach better than using Quickwood?
As for the slot machine, i am using the factory coil and many times it shoots the ball down the out hole. So it is powerfull enough if it is functioning correctly.
Be sure the plunger is in good shape and that nothing has fallen down there.
When i got my game, there was a shooter tip down there which made it seem weak at times.
Quoted from PinballAir:I am also using the clock shaft spacer and have had no issues. ( like yzfguy ).
I posted a pic a few pages back.
I'm definitely going to give this a try then! Do you know what you used as the spacer? I don't have any clear posts lying around so I'm going to have to buy something, but if you happen to remember what you used (and the size!) that would be fucking awesome!
Quoted from atg1469:I'm definitely going to give this a try then! Do you know what you used as the spacer? I don't have any clear posts lying around so I'm going to have to buy something, but if you happen to remember what you used (and the size!) that would be fucking awesome!
I don't know the size, but I used one of those clear post with a point on top that you put one of those tiny rubber rings on. It has a regular screw hole on the bottom. I basically cut it in half.
Quoted from ramegoom:Reason I did it that way was to fill requests for different color LEDs. Some people want blue, some red, and even a few green. Simple procedure to remove the 3-LED strip and replace it with a different color.
If the LEDs were mounted on the surface, I'd have to keep several versions on the shelf. And, SMT assemblies are generally designed to be done in multiple production, i.e. maybe 200 or 300 boards at a time. Lots of overhead right there.
RGB LEDs are less desirable because the light output is diminished when combining the mix to make a specific color. So individual 5050 LEDs are much more robust, and when you multiply by 12, they produce lots of light.
Not sure what the GIOCD does - I assume it PWMs the LEDs to taper the outputs for both rising and falling illumination. If so, the system just might work with the 12 LED system. Never tried it though.
I ordered one today and use GIOCD. I will post back if the LED clock board works or not with GIOCD.
Quoted from yzfguy:I don't know the size, but I used one of those clear post with a point on top that you put one of those tiny rubber rings on. It has a regular screw hole on the bottom. I basically cut it in half.
Thanks so much for the advice! I found something that worked, it’s not perfect but definitely helped identify the problem/solution. I ordered a new clock face cover so I can make a new version that’s cleaner and adjusts the issues with my first go around. The original cover wasn’t looking too hot anyways, so it was a good excuse to buy a new one! Thanks again, this forum is a life saver!
Quoted from atg1469:Thanks so much for the advice! I found something that worked, it’s not perfect but definitely helped identify the problem/solution. I ordered a new clock face cover so I can make a new version that’s cleaner and adjusts the issues with my first go around. The original cover wasn’t looking too hot anyways, so it was a good excuse to buy a new one! Thanks again, this forum is a life saver!
I'm so glad to see this idea helping others. I totally thought I had the "oddball" game that needed this tweak, so now I'm glad I posted it. This forum is awesome because it saves us all from being the guinea pig on things. I have been saved many hours by reading other people's troubleshooting posts, so it feels good to be able to pay it back
Quoted from PinballAir:As for the slot machine, i am using the factory coil and many times it shoots the ball down the out hole. So it is powerfull enough if it is functioning correctly.
Be sure the plunger is in good shape and that nothing has fallen down there.
When i got my game, there was a shooter tip down there which made it seem weak at times.
do you mean like the ball shoots out "straight down the middle", out of the slot machine scoop?
like, how often would that happen do you reckon?
Quoted from Mickpat:I ordered one today and use GIOCD. I will post back if the LED clock board works or not with GIOCD.
He sent me one that should arrive today or tomorrow, I'll also be testing this in my game (GIOCD) to check results.
Yes, ball shoots out of the scoop and straight down the middle.
I tried a lot of fixes.
Eventually, I elongated the holes a little and aimed it toward the sling.
Quoted from Trooper11040:Finally became a TZ owner tonight. Still in the vehicle but should be getting it out tomorrow morning! [quoted image]
LOL great photo and congrats on joining the TZ club!!
Quoted from Trooper11040:Finally became a TZ owner tonight. Still in the vehicle but should be getting it out tomorrow morning! [quoted image]
You are FAR, FAR too happy for the YEARS of frustration that will follow. /s
Congrats!
Quoted from Coyote:You are FAR, FAR too happy for the YEARS of frustration that will follow. /s
Congrats!
HAHAHAHA (true...)
Quoted from PinballAir:Yes, ball shoots out of the scoop and straight down the middle.
I tried a lot of fixes.
Eventually, I elongated the holes a little and aimed it toward the sling.
I see.
as said by Coyote just then: 'many YEARS of frustration' come with TZ ownership!
Quoted from pbjksb:I also have "clock is broken" test report. I wonder if broken clock is a separate issue but power reset and broken clock occurred about the same time.
Did you get all of your issues resolved? I believe your clock issue is probably a 12V power issue potentially in addition to your 5v reset issue. Just curious where you are at.
Quoted from lurch:Anyone have a clue what this ground wire goes to? It's in the front of the cab left side. Looks like it was cut but I can't figure out where it should go.
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It's the ground cable of coin door.
Quoted from Davi:It's the ground cable of coin door.
Yes sir. Found it. Can't believe I missed that.. Thank you.
Quoted from twinmice:Does anyone have any leads on one of these? This one is ruined. Thanks Mike Paris
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I've not seen the 03-8835 face plate remade with the 4 legs - the replacement versions I have seen have a flat face plate with 4 separate plastic tube spaces that you slip onto the screw when assembling the clock. I bought mine from Pinbits but they are currently out of stock - maybe reach out to them and see if they are planning to restock? https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_2&products_id=160&zenid=801112576e9d75853242d89aab4f69c3
Alternatively you could buy the face plate here https://pinball-parts.shop/kategoriesuche/spielfeldteile/plastics/30931/clock-face-twilight-zone?c=270 although it doesn't look like it comes with the spacers, so you could attempt to cut them off your old face plate or look into whether you could make them or something suitable
Quoted from Trooper11040:My first issue. Been playing it all week with no issues. Now I have this error “Ball Popper Opto is stuck”. No clue where to even start to diagnose this error...Opto on the ball popper appears to be glowing when I put my camera to it
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Just because you can see the LED does not mean the reciever can see LED. The IR LED is only half the story.
Assuming your switch test shows the opto as blocked, and you can see the IR LED glow, start lookin' at your receiver then.
Quoted from Coyote:Just because you can see the LED does not mean the reciever can see LED. The IR LED is only half the story.
Assuming your switch test shows the opto as blocked, and you can see the IR LED glow, start lookin' at your receiver then.
I don’t have any optos in my switch test...
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