Quoted from Kare9:

I think somehow that coil's power is being affected, I'm guessing BR3 on the solenoid circuit (I see you've had reset issues). Do you notice any other coils becoming weaker?
Assuming you've checked the coil sleeve, and the coil stop/plunger for mushrooming.

Quoted from Manny65:

If you want a quick fix you can throw in a daughter board as parispinballadct mentioned - I'd recommend a Kahr board (https://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html) who originally designed this fix.

Quoted from jawjaw:

Have you tried taking the scoop off and inspect? Could be broken weld or something just snapped that is not obvious looking at it assembled. I had this problem on a Congo I used to own. Volcano would throw balls all over. It wasn't until I actually removed the stack that I discovered a mounting tab was broken clean off.

Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:

thanks for the reply! sorry to sound noob but what exactly and were is located BR3? i really had never heard of it until now...

Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Hi all, just installed the GI and LED OCD boards in TZ. Holy crap, I didn't know what I was missing until I saw this. Looks really good. However, its causing my PinStadiums (which tap off of the back of a GI bulb socket) to flash now. I've sent a note to their support, but I think all I need to do is wire tap into the GI signal before it gets to the GI OCD board. Anybody know which pins those might be on the power driver board (I think that's where they are, I did a lot of cable shuffling in that 119, 120, 121 block area)?
Thanks!

Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Hi all, just installed the GI and LED OCD boards in TZ. Holy crap, I didn't know what I was missing until I saw this. Looks really good. However, its causing my PinStadiums (which tap off of the back of a GI bulb socket) to flash now. I've sent a note to their support, but I think all I need to do is wire tap into the GI signal before it gets to the GI OCD board. Anybody know which pins those might be on the power driver board (I think that's where they are, I did a lot of cable shuffling in that 119, 120, 121 block area)?
Thanks!

Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I cleaned my TZ yesterday and while doing that I took the obligatory look at the balls (no, not THOSE). The metal ones look great; shiny, no noticeable dents or scratches. Then I inspected the white ceramic ball and realized that it had lots of small black "streaks" in the white finish that I haven't really seen before (about a year ago since I last gave the game a good cleaning).
I have no idea if it's white "paint" that has been scratched off the surface (is the ceramic ball black/grey-ish inside?) or what those dark streaks/marks are, but it does look kind of bad. The ceramic balls are rather expensive so while I could get a new one, that would probably also be ugly in a year or so if I don't find the reason.
I took a quick look at the playfield to try and find out where those marks could come from and realized that the two screws right behind the upper-right flipper could be the culprit. When I tested to launch a ball from the shooter, the ball would often bounce off one of those two screw heads before reaching the "rocket" kick-out below.
[quoted image]
At first I thought my metal ball guide perhaps was mounted wrong on my game but I had a look at other peoples TZ and saw they had the same position and screws as on mine (the pic above is originally taken from IPDB). The screws are the normal ones used for fastening of the ball guides.
Is this mounted wrong?
Should I try to find a screw with a flatter head, not protruding that much above the playfield surface?
Is the ceramic ball surface so hard that these screws can't really make any difference and the reason is something else?
Any suggestions or ideas?
Thanks

Quoted from PinJim:

The powerball is ceramic, and the black marks you see on it is dirt embedded in nicks in the surface. It’s perfectly normal. The nicks come from normal play, highly likely not from the area you identified. The are a result of the ball hitting other exposed metal surfaces around the playfield.
Some people do replace at least one of the screw hears you identified. People put a post (or maybe two) there with a rubber. But they do that to slow the ball down when it’s headed to the rocket launch, to keep it from bouncing out after a skill shot. Attached is a pic from another thread, maybe someone has a better one. My machine is all stock, so I don’t have the mod (and my ball often bounces out of the rocket ship area).
I believe some people have had success cleaning the powerball. I personally haven’t tried to and just accept the slight discoloring.
https://images.pinside.com/0/b9/0b91814d04b73ddc25a2439adeef21477100ba7c/resized/large/0b91814d04b73ddc25a2439adeef21477100ba7c.jpg
[quoted image]

Quoted from DDandB-KID:

I follow what the manual states, page 2 #4
CLEANING of the POWRBALL is not recommended.

Quoted from drummermike:

I bought a new white one.

Quoted from DDandB-KID:

I follow what the manual states, page 2 #4
CLEANING of the POWRBALL is not recommended.

Quoted from DDandB-KID:

If you still have your original one recommend holding onto it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-powerball-original

Quoted from atg1469:

Curious, has anyone ordered a new clock board from Ingo recently? I want to order one but I have some questions on the color options listed in his ad, but I've gotten zero response from him on either from his website or from his ads on here. Just want to make sure he's still making them.

Quoted from PinJim:

The powerball is ceramic, and the black marks you see on it is dirt embedded in nicks in the surface. It’s perfectly normal. The nicks come from normal play, highly likely not from the area you identified. The are a result of the ball hitting other exposed metal surfaces around the playfield.
Some people do replace at least one of the screw hears you identified. People put a post (or maybe two) there with a rubber. But they do that to slow the ball down when it’s headed to the rocket launch, to keep it from bouncing out after a skill shot. Attached is a pic from another thread, maybe someone has a better one. My machine is all stock, so I don’t have the mod (and my ball often bounces out of the rocket ship area).
I believe some people have had success cleaning the powerball. I personally haven’t tried to and just accept the slight discoloring.
https://images.pinside.com/0/b9/0b91814d04b73ddc25a2439adeef21477100ba7c/resized/large/0b91814d04b73ddc25a2439adeef21477100ba7c.jpg
[quoted image]

Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Not cleaned it yet in any way, thinking of what to do after seeing the manual advising not to clean the powerball (not sure why, any idea?).

Quoted from Davi:

The door area in the center of the playfield was designed to use 4 flashers, using two small circuit boards for flash lamps under the large door panel.
This design is still in the manual, and shown in the red prototype panel.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
(Pictures from HEP gallery.)
During the conversation with Jimakost (he is doing a cool TZ scratch build), he mentioned that he is looking for lamp boards, including a door lamp board. My goal was to create a door panel with the integration of 4 flashers, operated by 4 different playfield flashers.
Aftermarket mods with small PCB only replace the GUM and BALL flashers, that's the only chance for sample/production games, only 2 holes are available for flasher extension.
The LOCK 1-2 flashers cannot be installed into these boards (unless you are ready to hack it) - there is no hole on the PCB for extra flashers.
Few years ago GLM introduced a lamp board with 4 flashers - however the control was based on only 2 playfield flashers (GUM, BALL), not 4.
My door panel contains all feature lamps (original twist-in design for bulb or LED's) and the 4 flasher area, controlled by 4 flashers as per designer's intention. Every insert area contains 4 small LED flashers for even light distribution, and the feature lamp remain in the center. Connection to factory lamp harness via plug&play harness, no soldering required.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Thanks to coyote for clarification of flasher locations. I can create more lamp boards, if there is a demand.

Quoted from yzfguy:

If it were affordable I'd imagine a ton of us would switch to gain that feature, even if our boards are fully working. I'd switch it out for sure. Very cool to not have to solder or run wires to anything!

Quoted from Davi:

Obszar drzwi pośrodku boiska został zaprojektowany do użycia 4 migaczy, przy użyciu dwóch małych płytek obwodów do lamp błyskowych pod dużym panelem drzwi.
Ten projekt jest nadal w instrukcji i pokazany na czerwonym panelu prototypu.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
(Zdjęcia z galerii HEP.)
Podczas rozmowy z Jimakost (robi fajną, podstawową konstrukcję TZ ), wspomniał, że szuka tablic oświetleniowych, w tym tabliczki na drzwi. Moim celem było stworzenie panelu drzwi z integracją 4 kierunkowskazów, obsługiwanych przez 4 różne kierunkowskazy.
Nieoryginalne mody z małą płytką drukowaną zastępują tylko migacze GUM i BALL, to jedyna szansa na gry próbne / produkcyjne, dostępne są tylko 2 otwory na rozszerzenie flashera.
Migacze LOCK 1-2 nie mogą być instalowane na tych płytach (chyba że jesteś gotowy, aby je zhakować) - na PCB nie ma otworu na dodatkowe migacze.
Kilka lat temu GLM wprowadził tablicę lampową z 4 migaczami - jednak sterowanie opierało się tylko na 2 migaczach pola gry (GUM, BALL), a nie 4.
Mój panel drzwi zawiera wszystkie lampy funkcyjne (oryginalny projekt wkręcania żarówek lub diod LED) i obszar 4 migaczy, kontrolowany przez 4 kierunkowskazy zgodnie z intencją projektanta. Każdy obszar wkładki zawiera 4 małe migacze LED zapewniające równomierny rozsył światła, a lampa funkcyjna pozostaje pośrodku. Podłączenie do fabrycznej wiązki lamp za pomocą wiązki plug & play, bez lutowania.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Dzięki kojot do wyjaśnienia lokalizacji flasherów. Mogę stworzyć więcej tablic do lamp, jeśli jest zapotrzebowanie.

Quoted from Jecco74:

They don’t respond to PMs. The order link on their website was working and I ordered a clock board. They refunded me. I emailed and asked why and when I could order again. They never responded.

Quoted from Davi:

The door area in the center of the playfield was designed to use 4 flashers, using two small circuit boards for flash lamps under the large door panel.
This design is still in the manual, and shown in the red prototype panel.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
(Pictures from HEP gallery.)
During the conversation with Jimakost (he is doing a cool TZ scratch build), he mentioned that he is looking for lamp boards, including a door lamp board. My goal was to create a door panel with the integration of 4 flashers, operated by 4 different playfield flashers.
Aftermarket mods with small PCB only replace the GUM and BALL flashers, that's the only chance for sample/production games, only 2 holes are available for flasher extension.
The LOCK 1-2 flashers cannot be installed into these boards (unless you are ready to hack it) - there is no hole on the PCB for extra flashers.
Few years ago GLM introduced a lamp board with 4 flashers - however the control was based on only 2 playfield flashers (GUM, BALL), not 4.
My door panel contains all feature lamps (original twist-in design for bulb or LED's) and the 4 flasher area, controlled by 4 flashers as per designer's intention. Every insert area contains 4 small LED flashers for even light distribution, and the feature lamp remain in the center. Connection to factory lamp harness via plug&play harness, no soldering required.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Thanks to coyote for clarification of flasher locations. I can create more lamp boards, if there is a demand.

Quoted from Manny65:

Nice work Davi!!
Do you have a rough idea of what the board would cost? And would you need a minimum number to make it viable?

Quoted from yzfguy:

If it were affordable I'd imagine a ton of us would switch to gain that feature, even if our boards are fully working. I'd switch it out for sure. Very cool to not have to solder or run wires to anything!

Quoted from Giulio:

I'm in! This board would be a must for TZ fans.

Quoted from damadczar:

That's really cool. If affordable, I'd be in for one.

Quoted from RobertL:

Davi, you've made quite a stir in the forum. We are waiting for the opportunity to purchase.

Quoted from Coyote:

Looks good! I would be interested in one, definitely!
What color are the flasher LEDs?

Quoted from Davi:

Thanks. This test board has cool white LED's. Of course warm white is also possible.

Quoted from Coyote:

I would swap to warm white or even red, IMHO. (If you leave it cool-white, no worried, they're thru-hole and can be easily swapped.

Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Dang, I need that pcb board in my life!

Quoted from Davi:

The door area in the center of the playfield was designed to use 4 flashers, using two small circuit boards for flash lamps under the large door panel.
This design is still in the manual, and shown in the red prototype panel.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
(Pictures from HEP gallery.)
During the conversation with Jimakost (he is doing a cool TZ scratch build), he mentioned that he is looking for lamp boards, including a door lamp board. My goal was to create a door panel with the integration of 4 flashers, operated by 4 different playfield flashers.
Aftermarket mods with small PCB only replace the GUM and BALL flashers, that's the only chance for sample/production games, only 2 holes are available for flasher extension.
The LOCK 1-2 flashers cannot be installed into these boards (unless you are ready to hack it) - there is no hole on the PCB for extra flashers.
Few years ago GLM introduced a lamp board with 4 flashers - however the control was based on only 2 playfield flashers (GUM, BALL), not 4.
My door panel contains all feature lamps (original twist-in design for bulb or LED's) and the 4 flasher area, controlled by 4 flashers as per designer's intention. Every insert area contains 4 small LED flashers for even light distribution, and the feature lamp remain in the center. Connection to factory lamp harness via plug&play harness, no soldering required.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Thanks to coyote for clarification of flasher locations. I can create more lamp boards, if there is a demand.

Quoted from Kare9:

Very cool board, would buy. What occurs when the panel is meant to be on?

Quoted from Davi:

In case of flasher activity*, the door panel flashers are also activated.
(*These 4 flashers)
Upper left insert, GUM -》upper left ramp flasher
Upper right insert, BALL -》upper right ramp flasher
Lower left insert, LOCK 1 -》pop bumpers flasher
Lower right insert, LOCK 2 -》upper right flipper flasher[quoted image]

Quoted from Davi:

In case of flasher activity*, the door panel flashers are also activated.
(*These 4 flashers)
Upper left insert, GUM -》upper left ramp flasher
Upper right insert, BALL -》upper right ramp flasher
Lower left insert, LOCK 1 -》pop bumpers flasher
Lower right insert, LOCK 2 -》upper right flipper flasher[quoted image]

Quoted from Davi:

The door area in the center of the playfield was designed to use 4 flashers, using two small circuit boards for flash lamps under the large door panel.
This design is still in the manual, and shown in the red prototype panel.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
(Pictures from HEP gallery.)
During the conversation with Jimakost (he is doing a cool TZ scratch build), he mentioned that he is looking for lamp boards, including a door lamp board. My goal was to create a door panel with the integration of 4 flashers, operated by 4 different playfield flashers.
Aftermarket mods with small PCB only replace the GUM and BALL flashers, that's the only chance for sample/production games, only 2 holes are available for flasher extension.
The LOCK 1-2 flashers cannot be installed into these boards (unless you are ready to hack it) - there is no hole on the PCB for extra flashers.
Few years ago GLM introduced a lamp board with 4 flashers - however the control was based on only 2 playfield flashers (GUM, BALL), not 4.
My door panel contains all feature lamps (original twist-in design for bulb or LED's) and the 4 flasher area, controlled by 4 flashers as per designer's intention. Every insert area contains 4 small LED flashers for even light distribution, and the feature lamp remain in the center. Connection to factory lamp harness via plug&play harness, no soldering required.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Thanks to coyote for clarification of flasher locations. I can create more lamp boards, if there is a demand.

Quoted from PinJim:

Nice. Funny part is I can hear the sounds in my head as I watch that clip. One of the best jackpot sounds in pinball, gives me the goose bumps to this day.

Quoted from Jecco74:

Would this still work with my Robby the robot that uses the sockets to run his LEDs?
If so I am in.

Quoted from Jecco74:

uses the sockets

Quoted from Coyote:

Which "sockets"? There are a lot there.

Quoted from Coyote:

Which "sockets"? There are a lot there.

Quoted from dnaman:

I think that techically you can tie the robot into any sockets, they might just be aligator clips but I will wait for comfirmation or I will have to open up mine.