I'm currently restoring a TZ, so I'm posting here, just in order to joining the club!!!!!
(Topic ID: 63352)
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Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
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1 month later
Quoted from DefaultGen:This Ebay store, I just ordered the piano myself:
ebay.com link
Just tore down my playfield. Lots of things behind other things, I can't wait to screw up putting it back together. Feels more annoying than STTNG already.
Wow.... these mods keep getting pricier in a daily basis.....
Quoted from cheshirefilms:Check out the original flyer from Bally, that's not actually the case. The yellow always went upper right
tzflyer~2.jpg
I have also heard about it... the colors of the pop bumpers on the flyer are not in the correct meant position. ... Anyway, I like mine all orange... the only differential being my lamp colors follows the order that Coyote posted (yellow, orange, red ).... it gives a nice subtle effect!
Quoted from Coyote:Interesting, have a pic?
I'm not into mods on my TZ, but the one thing I DID do was change the skirts to match the cap color.
I'll try to take a picture that bests capture the effect... like I said, it's very subtle, so I don't know if it will show that much.... And my skirts are all orange as well 
1 week later
Quoted from SuperPinball:nice wrapping job
Sometimes is nice to have a good laugh!!!!! 
Quoted from Bowlingpin:Picked this up a few days ago..
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Pretty sure its a Frankensteined twilight zone. Meaning it's a sample/prototype play field but everything else sugguests it's a regular model.. After some tweaking and some love it's playing like a champ.
image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Love this game
How do you know it has a proto PF?
Quoted from Bowlingpin:Does not have 3rd magnet, mini playfield has the "flip here" text.. So maybe it's just a early model? Manufacture date on the cabinet is 5/18/93
Some pics would be nice!
1 week later
Quoted from german-pinball:I have 500 pcbs here again.
I wanna make a special offer for all pinsiders.
The next 20 orders I will sell the board for only 99,00 USD (regular 130,00 USD) including sets of warm-white, cold white and blue Superfluxx-LEDs. So you can spare 43,00 USD to the regular price. Shipping to outside Europe is 8,00 USD instead of 17,00 USD.
The rainbows-LEDs are 14,00 USD.
If you are interested, simply send me a PM.
http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/final-tz-clock-pcb-english.html
Just PM'ed Ingo and got an extremely quick response.... I'll send my paypal payment tomorrow!
Quoted from AlexSMendes:Just PM'ed Ingo and got an extremely quick response.... I'll send my paypal payment tomorrow!
PAID!!!! 
Quoted from DefaultGen:Just bought Ingo's second to last sale board. Figure if I'm going deep into Twilight Zone I might as well do it right.
Anyone looking for a used third party replacement board?
I can PM you my home address so you can send it to me for free!!! 
Quoted from ryanwanger:What I meant is that the left one is entirely different. It should say: "Defeat the power by shooting the ball thru top of pyramid". Like this: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16416-2
Quoted from Coyote:What the hell is up with the apron?
Check: http://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/TZ_Page.html#
Quoted from JohnnyHK:Man, I simply do not get the current mod-crazy pinball culture. Guess I'm just a purist...or just old.
Sometimes less is more! I defnitely feel that when it comes to the TZ.
Quoted from Lermods:Those guys have some pretty outrageous prices.
I think that's the case with all the mod sellers....
Anyway, Pinball Decals' quality are very good, and Joey is an extremely nice pinball fellow!
2 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from Invader:Some of you guys are going to hate me for this, but I applied new (cheap, not original) decals over my old (faded and damaged) decals
Also without removing the playfield and putting the cabinet on the side etc.
Why? Because I don't have the space, tools and time to do so currently.
And old decals were ugly and I needed to get it look better, so I tried this "easy" way
I also got new original decals (with correct color scheme) in stock, I hope sometime in my life, I have the time to do a full renovation of my TZ.
Then I'll apply the decals the right way
But for now, this turned out pretty good luckily!
Some minor imperfections, but waaaay better looking than with old decals.
I did fill the deep scratches/holes with bondo and sanded it by the way.
At the legs I didn't fill it up, because I'm using leg protectors, so you can see that on the picture.
I was afraid the old decal would shine through, but that's not the case woohoo.
OH and to get the two big bolts out from the side of the cabinet, I lifted the playfield a bit with a bunch of tape rolls
Just had to work with the stuff I got.
And I replaced the siderails with shiny black ones, and black leg+bolts+leveler.IMG_2442.JPG
IMG_2447.jpg
From the picture there's no way to see the minor imperfections, and it looks real good! I like the black metals as well!
Also liked the internal side-art!
Good job man! Now enjoy!!!! 
Quoted from LitzDoc:I got Ingo's clock board last week. I am ready to install. I have not done much of this kind of work on my TZ. Do you have any pointers on how to install the board without screwing other things up in the pin? I am a little nervous because my TZ is rock solid electronically and I dont want to cause problems.
Thanks
CB
Mine still underway.... brazilian customs are a b****!
But I'm looking forward to read the replies of your post, because I've got the exact same problem.... I don't have the necessary skills and I'm so f**** afraid to s**** things up!!!!
PS: Moderators, sorry for so many **** words!
Quoted from Nightmare:The one and MAJOR pointer that I can give you is to make sure the clock is at the 12 o'clock position before swapping at the boards. You want the gears set to that. If you don't, you will have major problems. Also, when you take the clock a part and remove the hands, don't lose the pin that holds everything together. Here's a doc that explains everything in detail from Ingo.
http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/tz-clock-instruction-english.html
Quoted from Lermods:Removing the clock and replacing the board is really very simple, I can do it in 2 minutes now.
1. Remove the plastic around the clock (if you have a piano, undo the screw holding it on first)
2. Unhook the motor power connector that's under the playfield and feed up through the Pf.
3. Undo the 2 screws holding the clock bracket
4. Lift clock and pull off two connectors. Clock will now be free.
5. Remove plastic face
6. Remove ear clip that holds hands on
7. Pull off hands, noting orientation (watch the pin underneath minute hand so you don't lose it.)
8. Undo 4 screws holding bracket in back and pull the motor and gears back (it's all one piece.)
9. Pull out board and replace it making sure you put it in oriented the right way.
10. Clean and lube the gears while you are there.
11. Button it all back up.
I'm going from memory as it's been a few months since I've done it, but It should not intimidate anyone as its about a 3 on a scale of 1 to 10 with 1 being changing a bulb.
Others can chime in with tips or if I've missed something. I was in the same boat with mine not too long ago so hope this helps out.
LitzDoc, I don't know about you, but I am way more at easy now!!!! 
Quoted from Invader:Finished, now I can finally play
I only have to fix a topper to make it complete
And fix my Ingo clock board problem (Ingo, please check your mail, send you couple of e-mails with no reply yet).IMG_2452.JPG
Beautiful!
Quoted from MrBellMan:Pinball Life has them for $27. I think that was the cheapest, but they are on VAC now. I'm just going to clean and polish my old one.
Hey, thanks for the tip...., I still think it's expensive, but that's the best price I've seen so far..... I'll send an e-mail to Terry anyway!
Quoted from AlexSMendes:Hey, thanks for the tip...., I still think it's expensive, but that's the best price I've seen so far..... I'll send an e-mail to Terry anyway!
Yep - closed untill June 22nd.
Quoted from apc7654:I just installed rubber rings, which I purchased from Marcos. They sent the amount and type of rings that were called out in the manual. What I discovered is that, for my playfield, the amount of rings and the location specified in the manual was incorrect in several instances. I have attached a corrected page "2-56" of the manual, which includes the correct amount of rings, and corrected locations on the playfield.
I don't know if there are different production playfields out there, but this page was corrected for my playfield configuration.
TZ rubber rings.jpg
Saved for future reference! Thanks!
Quoted from MrBellMan:I'm old and have a horrible memory...
Does anyone know where I can download these TZ custom cards? I got them a few years back, but forgot where...
Thanks!IMG_8209.jpg
pinballrebel ?
Quoted from Bowlingpin:I used this site for mine.
http://www.pinballcards.com/
These are the best!
Quoted from Leo13:Indeed, but very annoying to not have a search engine !
Dude... about only 8 or 9 pages to navigate.... Awesome art and they're FREE!!!!
Quoted from Coyote:Nice! Who did yours?
It's still odd to me to see the 'proper' colors on the ramp. I'm so used to mine -
colors.jpg
You'll have to send yours to São Paulo - Brazil!
The artist who does those PF restorations is the same guy who used to paint Ayrton Senna's helmets!!!
He also restored my TAF and TotAN PFs!
1 week later
Quoted from Invader:Finished, now I can finally play
I only have to fix a topper to make it complete
And fix my Ingo clock board problem (Ingo, please check your mail, send you couple of e-mails with no reply yet).IMG_2452.JPG
I'm also trying to contact Ingo.... did anyone hear from him lately?
2 weeks later
Quoted from Luppin:Like brand new!
I surely hope... You see, like you all I'm also seeing the machine only by photos... It is being restored in Sao Paulo, approximately 500 km from home!
Quoted from Luppin:hi, I checked my TZ software. It says revision L-5 and sound revision P-3. Are those revisions enough advanced? where to find the revisions list for TZ?
I do think the latest game version is 9.4H for home use (free play). As for the sound rom P-3 would be the last.
Quoted from Luppin:I cannot see L-5 in this list... ??
Also, the Romset list is in alphabetical order, so I cannot figure out how recent is my revision.
Any help?
Take a look at some ebay listings.... usually the chips for sale have the latest versions.
Quoted from DefaultGen:Sweet that shooter Rod made it to pinballdecals, so it's probably only like $120 to get one.
Joey from pinballdecals is a very nice pinball guy.... anyway, if you're looking for some another awesome shooter "Rod"s, PM our pinside fellow "pinball_customs".
1 week later
Quoted from Lermods:It's a very complex game. If you don't know the game well, you will be rolling the dice a bit. Clock, kick outs, boards, powerball recognition, gumball machine, mini pf. If the game has 9.4h rom, play the litz cheat and see how the game deals with all the balls.
I've got a lot of mods available too
Good luck, it's a fantastic game!
I just got my TZ and I am still learning the game.... I have 9.4H installed.... whats litz cheat?
What mods have you got?
Quoted from ALY:Starting 6 ball wizard mode - Lost in the Zone (LitZ) at start to practice.
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/IgG6IctPD3s
Quoted from Lermods:Litz cheat is started with buyin button upon starting a game.
Here's my mods if you are interested...
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/19263
Thanks for the answers, fellows.....
Well, I tried to start a game and then press the extra ball button for 5 seconds, but nothing happened..... 
So.... I'm wondering if:
1) is there any specific setting I should change?
2) maybe my extra ball button is not working?
3) am I doing something wrong?
Quoted from Coyote:Note -
You have to press the Ex Ball button while the game's already going.
Start a game.
Hold down the Ex Ball button for a long time, until you hear the TZ sound.
Then shoot the piano or slot.
And yes.. your Ex Ball button has to be working.
Looks like my ex-ball is really not working.... Set the game to buy a credit at the end of the game and I couldn't do it either.... So I got to have it checked...
Quoted from Coyote:There's a fantastic and MUCH easier way to tell..
It's called the 'Switch Test'. In fact, it's the first test in the Test menu. A lot easier than starting a game and playing three balls to find out.
Quoted from Coyote:..I mean.. unless you WANT to play a game.
Just went through the switch test, and it confirmed all my suspicious.... the button is really dead!!! 
Quoted from Coyote:Admittedly, that's odd. There's not much there to fail. I'm guessing some wires between the button and the CDI got cut or unplugged.
Yeah, maybe something got loose.... I ain't got tech skills (definitely suck big time), but I'll try to take a look anyway!
Quoted from Coyote:Hell.. I got started in '92. There was no internet, and I didn't know a THING about reading schematics. Thanks to several books bought used, I taught myself all these tricks and tips. Of course, this was back when you had to know what a command-prompt was on a computer, because there WAS no Windows 3.1.
Yeah, I'm old. If I had a front yard, and I had neighbors, I'd be telling those kids to stay off my lawn!
Quoted from Luppin:I am planning to buy 9.4h revision. It will allow 7 balls play. I need to buy the sixth regular ball and I am shopping at Pinball Heaven. They have "steel balls" and "premium balls". The description says the "steel balls" are not good for games with magnets, while premium are. So do I need premium balls? But in the pic they look like darker, while mine existing 5 regular balls looks like a normal, regular steel color.
So what do TZ use regular steel balls or special ones suited for magnets?
At least for me, regular balls don't seem to be a problem... I often defeat the power with no much trouble!
Lots of mods that block the ball view and deviate the attention from the game play.... I don't get it and I just don't dig it!
Mods should only be placed like if they were meant to be there in the first place!
Quoted from nocreditdot:I'm back in the club after a 10 year hiatus. Dumb question there are 3 holes for leg bolts. Do I use the upper 2 or the lower 2?
M
Well, how tall are you???? 
1 week later
Quoted from Coyote:Nice game - it's a later sample, since you have the production colors in front of the left ramp, but have the white door on the backbox.
Nice, I wasn't aware of that detail!
Quoted from dgoett:OK - As requested.
20150911_175023.jpg 20150911_175008.jpg 20150911_174959.jpg 20150911_174414.jpg 20150911_174344.jpg 20150911_174019.jpg 20150911_173934.jpg 20150911_173549.jpg
Looks like just left Bally's factory!
Quoted from bigd1979:Really? I seen them before on a restoration? Just bc they weren't available from a licensee do t mean they cant be had
If I had that info prior to order my decals I would have asked for the white doors..... I almost made mine all B/W....
Quoted from dgoett:white door decals are available at planetarypinball. it's a micro 3rd magnet playfield.
I actually have a REAL prototype gumball/collect spiral when lit plastic in the coin tub. they originally came with a decal over the plastic of the gumball machine. it's a rare piece to find.
it's kind of an imposter proto but has almost all the features and artwork of a proto. no red boards obviously.
Pic?
Quoted from Neal_W:If you scroll up, you can see the image of his back box. The doorway is white on the side of the back box, not orange/yellow.
Yeah, I didn't make my self clear.... I was refering to the " REAL prototype gumball/collect spiral when lit plastic in the coin tub".
Quoted from Pinballs:I added a Pinsound card and stereo cable kit, and installed the DCS soundtrack that was originally produced for TZ. A really nice sound. Now I'm thinking new speakers!
TZ was my first machine in 1999... that I sold in 2000!! Then got another one 6 years ago, and had it completely refurbed (down to cabinet wood sanding level).Now it's mint, with all the mods. My favourite machine I could never sell it, hell I'll need to be buried in it.
Nice... Where did you buy this kit?
Quoted from Coyote:I was there when it was delivered, and left the company (personell issues) for about 18 months before I snuck in and claimed it as my own.
The game USED to have the LEFT spiral sign as well (with the wording), but it's long lost now. I have a blank sign I'll be putting up sometime after my restore's finished.
Awesome... Getting to know TZ history!!!
Quoted from Pinballs:I bought it from Nicolas himself @ the Pinsound stand at the UK Pinball Party. He was really helpful in giving me advice afterwards too. A 5-star recommend from me.
Thanks, I'll definitely take a look!
Quoted from Coyote:Technically, no adjustment is needed, no newer ROM is needed. The game was originally designed for 7 balls - 6 regular, 1 powerball. My machine still had the decal on it that says that, even. (It was dirty and scraped up, I had new ones made..) You can set the gumball adjustment to 4 balls, but I do not know if it will 'simulate' the powerball every 4 balls or not. Honestyl, the adjustment does not do much, as the game will load up balls into the gumball until there are only three in the trough, so you could have 2 or even 5 balls in the gumball, the game doesn't really keep track.
The game dropped a ball due to that amount of balls making LITZ a little too difficult with the jackpot shots and powerfield, as far as I heard.
Once balls go into my game agian, I plan on making it 7.
--Me
Got 7 on mine. ROM 9.4H.
1 week later
Little issue here...: I'm not getting the piano award when I get the ball into the piano hole. Instead the machine is granting me a slot award..... is there any faulty sensor I guess? Can't see any error on switch test....
Quoted from Coyote:Piano switch is not registering. Check it.
Checked! Right on target, thanks! You know, sometimes I got to be less lazy/more curious!
Quoted from Coyote:After getting back from the first of two work trips Saturday morning, I attacked my TZ and got a lot done this weekend -
IMG_20150927_131839.jpg
Lookat the reflection of that PF!
IMG_20150927_183230.jpg
Getting beautiful!
For those who, like me, can't afford the gumballs people sell on ebay (are they made of gold or what?).
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:Twilight Zone - "The most abused title with mods in the history of pinball".
I just don't dig all those TZ mods: slot machine, rocketship, camera, robot, talky tina, etc, etc, etc.... they all get in the way of the ball view....
3 weeks later
Quoted from Plumonium:Where did you get that Chinese checker game?
Bought mine on ebay (UK) and just arrived! I can say that it's the real deal!
Quoted from Plumonium:Can you post a link?
This guy? Are they plastic or real marbles?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chinese-Checkers-Classic-Board-Game-1-Game-Board-60-Marbles-Age-7-HL451-/131466844906?hash=item1e9c08daea:g:oKcAAOSwBahVEpOS
Exactly! Plastic!
Quoted from neurokinetik:I've had my TZ for so long that it just does not get the play that it used to. Looked at my audits the other day, and only 39 plays since March of this year when I installed the NVRAM.
But I finally got sick of seeing the default high scores on there yesterday and decided to do something about it. I did eventually get back on the board, but during that one good game, I had not one, but two separate multiballs with the powerball in play (obviously failed to get Powerball Mania going). Cashed in double jackpots both times, of 160M and 130M. Highest I've ever personally done.
The powerball aspect during multiball is just one of many things that makes this the best game ever. Lots of games have multiball, but none say "oh, you have to make the jackpot shot with just this one particular ball to double it". Genius.
I'm also lovin' my TZ.... so proud to be a member of this club!!!
Quoted from Goner:Gumballs are tough to insert. The plastic will flex enough to insert the gumball. Just insert one at a time. The first is the hardest, thinking you're going to crack the plastic.
Hehe... so I'll try again because at first I simply gave up.....
Quoted from Animal:I wanted to share my home made topper for my TZ. There are lots of great TZ toppers and when I got my machine I asked myself what is the perfect topper for this pin and I thought a replica of an old school TV playing real episodes of the Twilight Zone:
» YouTube video
The episodes being played are the episodes that were the creative influence behind the art work and theme of the pinball machine. So talking tina is represented by the episode "The Living Doll", the cannon on the backglass is represented by one of the Civil War episodes "The Passerby", the Camera is inspired by the episode "A most unusual Camera" and the episode playing on my video is the ending of " The Monsters are due on Maple Street."
The TV housing was picked up on ebay, was soooo lucky to find a miniature sized "floor-model" and the videos are playing on a portable dvd player. Four episodes per DVD and 16 episodes are on 4 DVDs that I made up. As well, during the commercial breaks I inserted all 3 openings of the TV show since the are so cool. The toughest part was dremeling out a channel along the inside of the TV to centre the portable dvd player screen in the TV housing.
Very nice idea indeed.... as fellow pinsider xTheblackknightx, my TZ also has a collection of mini toys....
Quoted from Lermods:Just looked at pinball decals site for TZ mods, and while I don't like to criticize other mods because I wouldn't like it if it were done to me, but wow those prices are high. They are the exact reason I started making mods. I mean $200 for this invader is really unfair to the community. I try to give pinsiders good deals... in many cases, I can do deals where they can get four maybe five mods for close to what they charge for a mod like this, and then they are done modding. I make mods to support my pinball addiction, not screw people. Some mods truly do cost more, largely because of the labor involved as they need to be painted and assembled (slot machine is a good example and the Masudaya robot is probably the mostly costly mod to find). This guy is trying to say his product is good because it has heat shrink...wtf?
http://www.pinballdecals.com/TwilightZoneInvader4Point0Page.html
Man, I surely can relate, especially being from Brazil when, in addition to high shipping costs, most of the time I'm hugely taxed from brazilian customs... So, if you think those prices are high, imagine supporting this hobby down here.... Anyway, I can give credit for Joey from pinballdecals that he is a really nice guy and has helped me a lot in the past few years!
But, that being said, let me ask you (and please forgive me if you have already answered this question anywhere on this thread)... What mods do you have and how much do you ask for them?
Quoted from Lermods:I have them all, or most of them. And for other games too, LOTR, tspp, IJ, Avengers, IM.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-twilight-zone-mods
Also have Masudaya robot for $90.
I give 10% discount on multiple mods, sometimes more if you buy a lot. Shipping always free in US. When I ship international I state on the customs form that the value is $10 and that it's a gift so you international guys don't get hit too hard. Most are very simple to install, none require soldering.
I sell them on eBay for more than pinside, no discounts on eBay. I've also started selling through mezel mods, they have great customer service and many other mods to add to an order.
Thanks, I'll take a look!
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:For all those that might not remember there was a specific 16" "Robby the Robot" 1997 Masudaya Japanese model kit (1/5 scale) (might be the one mentioned) that was offered as a pinball topper quite a few years ago.
The creator fully re-wired the completed model kits to use them with the game (flashers, lights, primitive LEDs, etc). Outstanding workmanship and cost $200 at the time. That is an example of a topper that was worth the money, because today it would cost well over $400. The Robby on top of my machine is the 12 inch toy electronic voice controller version, but still damn expensive now if still in the box.
Here is a photo of the actual robot with the proper sound clips and LEDs (not game wired here):
» YouTube video
"For your convenience, I am monitored to respond to the name, Robby".
War of the Robots:
» YouTube video
Well, although I also own a "Robby the Robot" action figure as a topper, it is only fair to say that Robby was a robot that appeared on a film called "Forbidden Planet". The robot that appears on one of TZ episodes is a customized robot with the same outfit but a whole different head (inside the "helmet"). Well, the robot pictured on the TZ playfield, is actually Robby itself, though I think it's another sin commited by the artists on the TZ artwork!
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:There are lot of artwork errors that occurred with licensed themes in pinball machines.
Some, such as this one, are much less noticeable, considering very few people were even alive here when the original TZ series aired on television in the early 1960s, let alone "Forbidden Planet" in 1956.
Others were caused by interference by the actors or the licences-ees themselves that did not know their own canon data.
Another famous one was the debacle with Taxi and Marilyn Monroe, which everybody remembers.
If you look closely at nearly every single pinball machine that is tied to a licensed theme you will see differences, or outright changes.
Lets see if people know what might be lurking on The Addams Family for example...they are out there...
Now you gotta tell me about TAF.... I'm curious!
Quoted from Sparky:Yes, but that's not what miamiredskin was asking. He was asking about the Bally slot machine Twilight Zone. There's a gumball machine on it. He was wondering why the slot machine would reference the pinball machine if there's no gumball connection to an episode.
Is there anywhere a TZ slot machine? Made by Bally? Pics?
4 weeks later
Glad I got Ingo's clock board..... works flawlessly and Ingo's a really nice buddy... great benefit for the money... definitely a no-brainer!
Quoted from scampcamp:I've pm johnwartjr just waiting for reply.
You can download it from the TZ page.... Or else look for the chip at ebay!
Quoted from Coyote:Hell, if I wasn't heading out of town today for a week, I'd burn your a copy for free.
Do you have the X Files ROM? 
1 week later
1 week later
OK, just to make sure.... I got myself some of these:
ebay.com link: Pinball Cabinet Leg Protectors Original Fabric Design Dark Grey 1 Cent Ship
Guess it works better than metal or plastic....
1 week later
I proudly own a TZ and I'd say that the game is really awesome.
But.... I've got another pins in my line-up that I enjoy even more, and I constantly find myself playing them more often than my TZ.
Given that the TZ is the ultimate #1 machine of all time (Pinside and IPDB rankings), I was wondering if other clubbers experience that same feeling of mine, or is the TZ really the jewel of your (collection) crown?
Quoted from Coyote:And for those of you that to not frequent the main pin forum, here's a (rather short) video of the TZ's Magnet Toss (not just the 'catch'):
» YouTube video
(Info here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/present-for-those-curious-tz-magnet-toss)
I'm really really pleased- my TZ's just about finished with the restore.
WOW!!!! AWESOME!!!!
Quoted from ita47:I joined the club on Saturday. Its in very good condition. I'm planning to have the armor powder coated black, and I will eventually pull the playfield and clearcoat it. I have had one issue, it played great when I first got it home, but now the mini playfield only works occasionally. I'm not sure what happened, but it is intermittent. I have checked the plugs under the playfield but that didn't do it.
IMG_0286_(resized).JPGIMG_0287_(resized).JPGIMG_0294_(resized).JPGIMG_0303_(resized).JPG
Is it me that is not seeing things straight but is your left flipper bat a little bigger/thicker than normal? 
Quoted from ita47:No, I think its just a weird angle with the camera.
Guess those yellow rubbers are not helping much.... 
Quoted from ita47:The flipper rubbers are actually white, but they do look yellow in the pic.
Oh my.... I was just about to call my doctor to check if I needed a pair of glasses!!!!
Quoted from Pmaino:No cliffy but it is compatable with cliffy's mini playfield piece.
Very nice, thanks for the tip!
Quoted from billsfanmd:Anyone have the airliner mod on theirs. Looks awesome but 225 from the Tz mod site seems high
Is it the "Nightmare at 20000 Feet" diorama?
Quoted from someoneelse:(Cars, Robots, Cameras, Slotmachines, Rockets, etc. etc.) is just junk that gets in the way of gameplay/view.
There's enough stuff crammed into TZ already, adding even more is overkill and makes it look cheap.
Couldn't agree more!
Quoted from TheLaw:I've said many a time this is probably the best mod for TZ. If I only had 1 it would be that. Looks so much cleaner.
Definitely.
1 week later
Quoted from cheshirefilms:Do what you wanna do...in living color
Screenshot_2016-02-03-15-56-22~2_(resized).png
Awesome!
Quoted from ramegoom:OK I got the mod itch, so here's my first TZ mod. I'm using the coin-on-the-edge scene from A Penny For Your Thoughts. I have four coins that are applicable, so I hot-glued them to a metal plate. Here is the result:
first-model_(resized).jpg
I might add a Roosevelt dime to the bottom edge.
Comments, suggestions?
Show it installed!
Quoted from Neal_W:Seems like it would show things down a bit. Info here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fa-twilight-zone-custom-spiral-ramp
Yeah.... that's exactly what I thought.... to quote the last post on that particular thread: "I like the looks, but this will obviously cause an uneeded delay in the ball return."
Quoted from cheshirefilms:Hey guys- Im looking for the 4 gray TZ mini playfield covers. If you recently upgraded to the great lakes kit without these big switches, these should be leftover in your coin box. Even 2 would help- I have a lead on another two. I dont want to buy an untrimmed aftermarket set. Thanks in advance if you can help!!
I've got some NOS spare left here somewhere.... I'll PM you.
There is just one thing that I definitely didn't like: the door colors.... I'd rather have an all-white door....
1 week later
Quoted from wolfy:I have WOZ and TZ and love both games. People that say WOZ is sissy never were a kid or can't appreciate monumental film history. They just need to buy Walking dead and Metallica and head bang to the awesome photogenic zombies. Those are reel manly titles. I do like these games actually but the themes will never make it in my game room.
Good for you.... woz will NEVER EVER make it in my game room. PERIOD.
PS: enough about woz talk, right? Get yourselves your own club and let us big boys be...
Quoted from dgoett:Prototype/Sample sign. No, it's not for sale. It goes with my TZ when/if I ever sell it.
IMAG1175_(resized).jpg
Sorry, but personally I just can't seen to understand the value of it, when the standard is so much better looking.... Just saying....
Quoted from dgoett:I sold one in 2007 on ebay for $150. Some people want their TZ to look like it was originally intended with 3rd magnet, this sign, green lock, white clock face, white door on head, Gum-Ball flashers, etc. Mine has all that stuff. I agree the new gumball sign looks better and that's why it's on my high end, but it's there in case someone wants to change it out someday.
Yeah, the 3rd magnet is super cool!
1 week later
Quoted from Archytas:Thanks for the advice, any link as to where I can get it from?
You can perform a search in this thread and you'll surely find everything you need to know!
Quoted from Luppin:control of the ball in the mini-playfield with magnets is somehow random. anyway with experience you learn to shoot at the right time and the right distance and achieve pushing the ball upwards more consistently. also, the right-left position of the ball from the magnet have an impact on the direction in which the ball is shot by the magnet: obviously it's not like playing with normal flippers, its definitely much more random, but as said with experience you learn to increase the number of good, strong vertical shots towards the out on the top of the pyramid.
Yes! Not bragging myself (oh yeah, I am), but most of the time I'm successful!
Quoted from Alby87:May I ask a photo of a TZ with cut out for stars? It's the first time I ever read about these, and I cannot find on google or ipdb.
Thank you
Curious too!
Quoted from TheLaw:Getting out a sharp phillups head screwdriver tonight!
Quoting AC/DC: "... cause we've got the biggest, balls of them all"
Quoted from cheshirefilms:It's way higher fidelity. But as such, a bit different. You can hear instruments, its not just computer synthesis. It takes all the DCS tracks Granner recorded and replaces the low res downconverted ones. The callouts, which weren't in DCS to begin with, were ported over from the original mix.
Can u post a video?
2 weeks later
Quoted from delt31:A few questions:
my table also came with a black "eye" ball. Seems heavy like a pinball. Anyone use this?
how do you replace the bulbs in the mini playfield inserts?
What does the flashing light represent right next to the top right part of the mini playfield? It's right beside the mp - not in it. top right.
The black eye pinball is a mod.... I have a set on my EatPM and a "Spider" set on my SS....Once I saw a black "spiral" designed pinball for sale... Can't remember where....
Quoted from Seatmandan:Just recieved my TZ decals from PPS, and it has me a little concerned- Head decals look fine, but to me, on the main cabinet, the red on gumball machine looks faded, the orange on the clock looks "creamcicle" or peach rather than orange, and the yellow around the sun looks faded rather than bright yellow.
I included one photo that compares the yellow-orange-red in the door on the head (correct in my opinion) to the "faded" yellow-orange-red on the main cab decal.
Thoughts???
EDIT: If I didn't know any better, I'd say the yellow on the printing of the main cab was jacked up- looks like there's not enough yellow
IMG_7939_(resized).JPG
IMG_7934_(resized).JPG
IMG_7938_(resized).JPG
Don't know.... by the photos I guess it's ok!
Quoted from Coyote:Question about those balls..
Do you guys actually play slow enough to SEE it? I mean... on my game - it wouldn't matter if the ball had the Declaration of Independence on it - it goes so fast that you'd never even *know*!
Well, during game-play all you can see is a black ball! But it looks really nice when you pause the ball on the flippers while planning the next move!
Quoted from TheLaw:Before spending insane amounts of monies on a bunch of mods really think aboot what is the best bang for your buck. GLM Switch Kit has always been the best mod out there...because it doesn't look like a mod.
http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/tzmpskit2.html
Sent several e-mails a few months ago to Tony from glm and never got any reply... 
Quoted from TheLaw:Unless you learn drop catch it, dead bouncing to the left flipper or shooting straight for the left ramp are the usual ways to go.
Drop catch is so cool, but my slot vulk spits the ball at 100 mph, so it's f***ing hard to do it.... Lost so many balls attempting, but I'll never give up!
I liked it.... but can't tell how much it will block (or not) the ball view while in the mini-pf....
Just a quick shot here.... since Jan/16, I've been trying to contact tony clark from greatlakesmodular.... Sent him several e-mail msgs and had absolutely no response whatsoever.... tried both the e-mail address listed on glm's home-page and also "[email protected]"...
Anyway, I wonder if anyone had any issues contacting him and/or acquiring his TZ mini-pf switch kit, because I'm starting to think maybe it's personal... 
Quoted from tdunbar:Here is a picture of the new Just3dmods.com new pyramid mod with a long shot of it installed on the front of the mini power playfield for TZ. I have a video of with it as well and will show attach later. A another picture showing where to install it and how the bottom fits on that metal bracket.
Since the pyramid sits on that bracket in front of the mini playfield and tapers to the top it does not obstruct viewing the ball on the mini playfield as shown in the first picture.
So whatya think?
Here is a short video
» YouTube video
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IMG_0374_(resized).JPG
Guess I'm in for you first customer But I could not find shipping options to Brazil on your web-page
Quoted from tdunbar:PM me with the address and I will found out the amount and give you a pinside 5 percent discount price of $45 plus shipping for helping out here then I will request a payment through paypal for you to accept . I currently have 16 so you won't have to wait for it to be made before shipping. Thanks
If you are not happy with the item you can return it before 30 days minus shipping cost and guarantee it for 30 as well with full or partial parts replacement.
PM sent
Quoted from Beebl:Don't give up on those micro switches they are a great mod. I have bought many things from great lakes in the past positive every time, maybe he is on vacation or has an email issue that needs to be resolved.
I didn't give up yet, but my last shot was posting here to see if I could get any help from fellow pinsiders.... Hope anyone @ glm can reply me, if not by e-mail, post a note on this thread!
Quoted from Miguel351:You might try getting a hold of Borygard here on Pinside. He used to bring a set or two with him to pinball shows. He might still have a set in stock that he could sell you.
I got my set off him.
Thanks! Will PM him right now!
Quoted from Archytas:I literally did this last night (replaced some really dim LED's with bendy ones to light the inserts better). You can follow the manual but the easiest way I found to do it was the following:
1) Pull playfield up so it is resting on service rails.
2) Remove nut above playfield post on right, screw where the mini-playfield joins the ramp and there are 2 screws mounted to a metal plate on the lower left side above the pop bumpers (these are the worst 2, they are slightly underneath and in a bit of an awkward position). In total 4 things to remove.
3) Slide mini playfield forward - it should slide under the ramp and forward, if you are finding it is catching it is likely the wires from the lamp are behind the metal mounting bracket, move these round the bracket. As it slides forward feed the wires through the playfeld.
4) With the playfield out you should have enough slack with the wires to turn it sideways and get underneath, you will be greeted with a large cardboard protector mounted in place by 5 screws. Remove 2 of the screws that are close to the top which will allow you to bend the cardboard back enough to get to the lamps.
5) Replace lamps, there is also a flasher here so remember to do this as well.
6) Roughly mount playfield back in place, turn game on - test all lamps work, if they don't remove and adjust as required. (worst thing would be putting it all back and finding out 1 of them doesn't work!)
7) Remount into place. Enjoy new lamps!
The manual suggested unplugging the 4 connectors that attach to the mini-playfield but I found this wasn't necessary as I only had to get it out enough to replace the lamps and there was enough slack on the wires. If you do decide to do this MARK THEM - there are 2 with practically the same wiring and if you plug them in the wrong way round you will blow something up.
Nice, will follow these instructions to also install the mni-pf cliffy protectors I've been postponing for awhile!
Quoted from Miguel351:Congratulations and welcome to the club! My first pin was also a TZ. Mine also had a bunch of issues and over the course of a number of months, I got them all worked out and fixed. Along the way I learned a LOT about fixing pinball machines as TZ shares a ton, mechanically and electrically, with a vast majority of modern games.
As for the tools you'll need…my main go to tool is a ratcheting screwdriver. Something like this(since I know you guys have Stanley over there):
13111954_(resized).jpeg
Don't quite know which hardware stores you've got near you, but I'm sure they'd have something quite like this there. They aren't very expensive for the sets and you actually only end up using about a third of all the bits, but it's still worth getting. I also have a few extensions to go with mine as well. Makes life extremely easy for those hard to reach areas, and it keeps your hands free and clear of all the fiddly bits underneath the playfield when you're trying to unscrew things. You might have other brands there that are better quality, too. Nobody would fault you for buying a proper, high quality one of these. You want it to last.
That'll at least get you going in the right direction. There are very few bespoke tools for pinball machines. Outside of that screwdriver set and its bits, I'd say a standard 1/4" socket set(probably safe to go with deep sockets) and a few different types of pliers, and you'll be set! As you get deeper into certain projects, you may discover a need for some kind of special tool, but these should cover the majority of the basic stuff. When the time comes to fix something, do a search on the forum first. There are plenty of us that have had the same issues before and have worked them out on the forum, along with what the solutions were.
Your game should have 5 steel balls and one ceramic. There should be three in the gumball machine(one is somewhat hidden under the other two you can see).
Typically one credit is three balls, but some people do five balls and I've even played a game that was ten! But, the standard around here is three balls per credit.
Good luck to you on your pinball journey! TZ is the monster that, if you tame it, you'll be able to tame just about any other machine out there!
I play a 5-ball game, always buy the last extra-ball, and have 7 balls installed (6 + 1 powerball (4 into the gumball)).
Quoted from Neal_W:I'm always in too much of a rush to get a pin home to remember to get pics of the trip.
Yeah, was thinking the same!
Quoted from MK6PIN:They are....just ordered a set!!!!
Pics when installed, please!
1 week later
Haven't fully installed it yet because I ain't got the electronic skills (neither have the balls to try it myself), but here's a damn well built mod that I really liked and fits perfectly well (had to loosen the mini-PF switch brackets a bit, in order to fit the Pyramid in)... Hopefully I'll have it fully working in a couple of weeks... Thanks to Tim at just3Dmods.com!
Its size is perfect, doesn't obstruct anything at all... check the third pic that is closer to the players perspective! But I do think the giant switches are the truly villains here, and they'll be soon taken care of!
1 week later
Quoted from No_Skill:That's weird. Mine doesn't show up. The serial number on the playfield matches my cabinet and it has a date stamped on the front of the playfield that reads jun 01, 1993. I have to assume it's original. Could it have been cleaned off our maybe never even applied?
My PF was completely repainted, so I won't even waste my time here....
Quoted from Neal_W:DOH. I didn't even notice! The name is probably trademarked.
Oh no.... look: http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/twilight-zone/7244/hinge-pivot-set-twilight-zone-bally-/-williams?c=2819
Is it lighted? How?
1 week later
Quoted from Coyote:How in the hell is this even a mod? Or even related to the show?
ebay.com link
It relates to the translite...
Quoted from Coyote:Sitting on a mint! Especially if it can be doubled as a mod for CC or MM, too.
The cannon would look good on a AC/DC.
Quoted from _litz:Yeah, this is a terminology thing ...
VUK = kicker that goes straight up
Kickout = scoop style kicker (slot machine, electric chair, etc)
Kickback = horizontal kicker (rocket kicker, laser kick on JP, etc)
Eject = saucer kicker (Merlin, Thing, etc)
Kickbacks are typically a horizontal plunger style kicker (like the guns on TNG), but can also be a lever action kicker, like the autoplunger and rocket kicker on TZ
Eject holes can either be small plunger style (like top saucer on SC), or a lever kicker (like a trough ball eject on older games)
Oh my.... how may times I messed it all up!
1 week later
Quoted from vilant:Just so happens I have my clock apart. The sticker is 3-5/32" square. I leave it to you to convert to metric
8cm! Thanks!
Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:Just added new Apron and starlight posts on mini playfield. Cool project!
Cool!
Quoted from fiberdude120:I feel the great lakes switch kit is one of the nicest things i have done to clean up the playfield.
I'm not saying that you need, because i don't remember your machine, but better yet is to take the bunch of mods off....
Quoted from fiberdude120:OK whatever that means, but the only mods on mine are the Ingo clock board and the switch eliminator kit.
I got much more than that... 
Quoted from _litz:That clock, in exactly that shape, still runs today (I bought the game), with no modifications.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Agent_Hero:Why is this club not linked to the game being discussed, like all of the other clubs?
Someone took the link off and now it's not possible to add it back - gotta ask a moderator for help!
Quoted from Billy16:Dude, because it's the Twilight Zone!
... you're entering another dimension, a dimension not only of sight and sound, but of the mind!
Quoted from nibre:I have bought the special decorative balls for the TZ Gumball Machine. Which is the simplest way to put them in? They are too big to put in from the top. I don't feel like taking the Gumball Machine apart completely...
If you bought the correct ones, they're slightly bigger than the passage through, but you'll be ok! Just press! Or, do as I did.... Pray and press, then pray again!
Quoted from TheLaw:Truly an asset to the club
OT: that one came as a souvenir with my 2015 C36 AMG... Sorry 'bout that.
Quoted from Coyote:Anyone hear from Ingo recently?
No, I haven't.... his board works flawlessly, so why should I?
Quoted from Coyote:dead GI on my board
Hope it's an easy fix!
Quoted from Coyote:Now they're all out - and it's something on the board, as when the game is first turned on, the LEDs come on and then immediately go out - like a strobe.
Hmmm... that surely sucks....
1 week later
Quoted from Coyote:To follow up, in case anyone was worried there was a problem with my board -
it was NOT the board, but a *very* oddly specific combination of issues.
In short, a pin was *just* loose enough on the inline Molex connector for the clock.
Why I couldn't track it down -
With the playfield raised - either all the way up or on its stands - gravity was causing the pin to make connection. So I'd disconnect the clock, measure voltage and get voltage! Then I'd drop the playfield, connect the clock, and wouldn't get any lights. It just so happened that in ALL of my testing, I never raised the playfield *with the clock connected*, so I never saw it light up when lifting the field.
Argh.
Can I say "I told you so" about Ingo's board?
Quoted from Coyote:Oh - and for folks going to York. I'm really stoked about the bottom two door-panel flashers. I got them installed last night, and it's really an amazing look - the flasher animations work with the light animations really well - almost like they were meant to be!(*) Be curious to see what others think.
(* - They were. In development, the center panels (Lock 1, 2, Bum, Ball) each had a flasher. Top two were connected to the Upper Left Ramp and Upper Right Ramp - when you buy a kit for the door flashers, this is where they are connected to. The *bottom* two, are connected to the Pop Bumper flasher and the Upper R Flipper flasher. if you get GLM's board, *it is wrong* - they just feed the bottom two off the top two.)
Post a video, man!
Quoted from swanng:FYI, In case anyone is interested, I just listed my all original TZ for sale in the Marketplace. It comes with the trough eddy upgrade kit AND a spare OEM trough eddy board set, along with a few extras.
Greg
whats up with that avatar of yours? is that you?
Quoted from LOTR_breath:Hey, I sold my TZ to raise money for a GOT Premium and six months later I'm still happy I did it.
Not cool, man, not cool! 
2 weeks later
Quoted from Luppin:Yes, I mean hands (sorry not a native speaker and sometimes I just "create" words I do not know.
How's it on your native language?
Quoted from Seatmandan:got my LED-OCD and GI-OCD brackets made in the prototype shop today. ready to go in to TZ and TOTAN
Post some pics when you install them!
Well.... I don't really know (actually never cared about), the difference between orange and amber.... I'm not that purist....
Can I go further and state that $400 is a boatload of money for a f***ing ugly topper? Don't get me wrong, the idea is great but the execution....(yikes...).
Plenty of better images out there to use.... what's up with that slot machine for christsakes???
Quoted from DeeGor:If you don't like it fine, but don't be a dick about it.
Last time I checked, I was entitled to have and express my opinion... if you don't like it fine, but don't be a dick about it.
Quoted from stpcore:I'm toying with the idea of offering some alternate clock face decals for TZ. The original decal on my clock was falling off. While getting ready to order a replacement I thought about printing a new original clock face (I do vinyl decal printing).
So this is just a prototype example. I like it on my machine and thought I would ask if there would be any interest for others? It's reverse printed on removable clear vinyl with a translite diffuser. It installs in the same location as the original decal. Because it's removable vinyl you can reposition it if you miss lining it up on your first few attempts so no wasting a decal (or your money) because of a simple mistake.
This particular color scheme best matched the original clock decal colors but I can change the colors easily if you prefer something else. In addition, I will be increasing the vibrancy of these colors on final prints as this is just a first attempt.
Thanks!
I got 2 questions: Is your housing blue? Could you post a pic of the decal alone?
Quoted from stpcore:Easy install of new clock face. It doesn't get easier as it drop right in. No decal alignment issues as this is a free floating translite that can be swapped in seconds.
I wonder if the number 8 is upside down?
Quoted from stpcore:It's actually just the font style and isn't upside down.
Thanks.... would you make one just like the translite?
Quoted from stpcore:Not sure I follow? Can you specify what you need or feel free to PM me and I'll help as best I can.
Yeah, guess I really didn't make myself clear... I was talking about the clock pictured on the translite.... but doing a quick research, I've seen that it is already being made somewhere and..., being honest, your new design looks better!!!
Quoted from Seatmandan:Looks great!! I still like your original with no numbers better!
+ 1.
Quoted from d0n:...opening the mini flipper, helps to make the shot.
Quoted from cheshirefilms:The second before the ball comes down to the middle flipper, hold down the left flipper and keep it down, till you smoothly slam the ball with your middle flipper into the camera.
huh.... guess I'm a little bit slow here... what's the difference???
Quoted from d0n:The one I bought plays 45 episodes of TZ, has sound and a 1.8" screen.
I got a 60" TV and the full TZ DVD collection... I'm thinking about modding my TZ by building the biggest topper ever
Quoted from stpcore:I agree with that. I prefer the more subtle / tasteful mods on TZ versus a total bling of the machine. Not saying that's right or wrong...just my personal taste.
If you haven't put a Pinsound board in your TZ yet your probably missing the most unbelievable mod for that pin. Something to look into if you haven't already done so.
Yeah, pinsound is totally cool... it's on my current wishlist, along the color-dmd's... !
Quoted from Billy16:As far as I know, this is Amber...
That's why I always go with Amber instead of orange!
Quoted from scottmaggie:Orange and amber are 2 different colors guys. The pop caps and the lightning inserts are red, amber and yellow.
Amber (correct)
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8254-8
Orange (incorrect)
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8254-12
It will also depend on lighting.... for a while I had all orange (yes, the lighter one) caps with red, amber/orange and yellow leds, and it gave a nice and subtle difference, only perceptive by the eyes (impossible to capture on pictures). But, I later decided that nice and subtle don't go with TZ, so I replaced my caps for the correct set-up (also replaced the orange cap for an amber cap), and the leds for colored incandescent bulbs!
Anyway, what I'm trying to say is.... amber or orange caps, it doesn't really matter, both are correct!
Quoted from wizard_mode:All I know is that there is no orange or amber in Twlight Zone, only black, white, and grey.
Get over it!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amber_(color)
The color amber is a pure chroma color, located on the color wheel midway between the colors of gold and orange.
https://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amber_(color)
The color Amber is a yellowish-orange color.
Quoted from johninc:That's confusing because she only has two pop bumpers.
3 would be much more confusing....
Quoted from Jgaltr56:When were the flippers last rebuilt? That will solve 90% of flipper issues and is the best mod ever.
I would not consider it to be a mod, but you may actually call it "must-do whatever it takes" mod!
Quoted from Seatmandan:The Red one is pretty sweet as well!!
Nice right ramp decal!
Quoted from cheshirefilms:If you go with the red clock, you have to switch to the white face for optimal look.
I'm exactly into it.... I got the red housing but I prefer the blue one... as I also have the white clock decal, I might be switching it in a while...
Quoted from Coyote:No, that's the Hitchiker tunnel. It does NOT drop into the dead end, but should end up in pop bumpers. If your ball is then going STDM, adjust sensitivity on a pop bumper, or adjust a metal ball guide, etc.
Or adjust your rocket coil... seems to be very weak....
Quoted from wizard_mode:you know on my machine the rollover switch was set so it protruded too far above the playfield and it would actually prevent the ball from resting fully into the rocket launcher pocket intermittently. When the ball is not fully seated into this pocket, it is mis-hit by the kicker arm and launches out weakly and sometimes does not even enter the townsquare area. Instead it dribbles out from the entrance below the camera or even hits the stand up target directly below that and bounces SDTM. You may want to check the rollover switch on yours and adjust it down since it is a really easy fix. The coil should not be any weaker than it ever was assuming it was never replaced or anything. Not sure wha you mean by "adjust" the coil?
Maybe the coil is old/weak or loose... maybe the kicker arm is not aligned...
1 week later
Quoted from Coyote:BTW, I attached a Manual Addendum I made after 9.4H was released. It covers all the new settings and changes options for existing settings in 9.4H.
Super cool, thanx!
2 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from scampcamp:The new plasma pop bumpers have been brought up before in other posts but does anybody know if the light pattern changes when the ball hits the pop bumper?
How much are they?
» YouTube video
Cool, but with time those plasma stuff stop working. I know because I already had two of these in my SS...
You can actually see in the video that the green plasma is fully working, while both blue already present issues, just compare!
Quoted from Miguel351:I'd suggest getting this setup:
ebay.com link » Bally Twilight Zone Pinball Machine Brand New Petg 3 Piece Clock Plates
I can't remember who they are on Pinside, but it's a neat kit that'll further add to your clock's versatility, making it easy to change your mind as often as you want.
I wouldn't recommend them... overall quality of their products is very poor...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/search?s=1&q=classicarcades&include_basement=0#results
Quoted from bigd1979:Actually they are great quality ...at least the ones i have and seen
A few years ago I bought some decals for my Hurricane from him and it definitely wasn't state-of-the-art.... but well, it's not just me who's sayin....
Quoted from Skyemont:Advise needed: A guy I know wants to trade RRWOZ for my TZ and 20 anniversary pacman Galaga. Should I do it?
If you're actually considering it, you don't deserve to be in this club.
Quoted from DeeGor:Sell Galaga then Congo or EATPM and save up cash for a used woz.
Congo and EatPM are way better pins than woz..., but..., this is a TZ owners thread, this discussion is pointless.
Quoted from german-pinball:Already found the time this evening, to etch and build your board. It´s really a sweety and works perfect. I have no time, to make a video now, you can make it, when you got the board.
I did not cut the wires of the parts on the bottom, but bent them a bit, so that the board becomes as flat as possible. Tomorrow I will cut a piece of fish-paper, better we put it between the RD board and our board, to prevent possible short circuits.
For demonstration purpuses only I put the board on an original board and a blank pcb spare of my professional board.
By the way - the solder-bridges on the bottom of the board are not necessary, but I would do them.
But pics say more than words - sweet, isn´t it? In 5-8 days it will be in the US.
Sweet!
Quoted from ramegoom:NEW PRODUCT. In my efforts to fully and evenly light the clock, I came up with this design which is considerably different than other clock mods available. This will be supplied as a replacement front PC board for your standard clock system, with "carpet lighting" LEDs - 12 of them - which now evenly illuminate your clock face. Because it's direct lighting, the excess light doesn't spill much out of the clock housing. See image below.
Here's the deal: I need four volunteers - you must be capable of taking your own clock apart and swapping in the new board. It plugs right in. I will send four beta test units to the first four who PM me with an address and in exchange, all I ask is that you install it and send me your opinions and comments. I have tried a few different designs and this one seems to be the best of the best. The finished product will be offered with a choice of colors (bright white, incandescent white, blue, green or red). It uses standard strip lighting trios so it's pretty simple. I am finding that the bright white makes the clock pop beautifully, although I have a blue unit in my machine right now, and it's growing on me.
Here's the board, which will be supplied with new standoffs and an "ogeesis" ring that you will probably lose when you remove the original one from your clock.
Remember, first four volunteers and thanks for looking.
Looks great, but what about my Ingo board?
Quoted from alistaircg:Hi i just joined the club
my Rocket kicker is really weak, it hardly kicks out the ball, every now and again it comes right, but generally its way to weak. How do i test it or fix it ? This is my first machine i'm a complete Noob, does the inside piece have a pad or something it looks pretty sparse in there like just a stick
TZ as a first machine??? Good luck, pal!
Quoted from Neal_W:Stole the day-glow plastic marbles out of a kids game called Tumble. They add some much needed color in my opinion.
Pink gumballs are much better looking than the black ones some people put into.... (guilty as charged).
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I'll have to take a picture; they're not mounting holes, and I'm not actually sure if they're clear through. They sort of look like they were stamped in there.. Pretty weird, and there's WAY too many of them for it to have been an accident
Termites
Quoted from tdunbar:Thanks Amendes for the review and it does not obstruct the view but pictures of it at playfield level may look like it but when standing and playing the game it does not obstruct the view. I have a few more of these to sell at $45 for TZ Owner's Club members with $2.45 to ship so if anyone wants any of the remaining stock PM me and you can have one in 3 or 4 days if you are in the US.
Amendes the light hook up is pretty simple and just follow the color instructions we sent with the mod to hook up the light. Here is what the instructions look like for others to see how it is done. This mod was designed from scratch and 3d printed by my son Trevor who also did the original final design for the Mezel mod WOZ tornado.
One thing I like about this mod is that when the power light is lit on the playfield it not easily recognized since your eyes are mostly on the flippers but you can see the eye light up when the power light come on and since it is closer to what you are watching it is more recognizable. Also the led wedge bulb is easily to replace if one is bad or one wants a different color, use ghosting bulbs since non ghosting ones tend to stay on all the time.
So..... I was owning a picture of this wonderful mod..... here it goes tdunbar
1 week later
Quoted from per3per3:I found it...it's F106. I didn't realize that, in the test menu, you can hold the start button and the machine tells you what circuit and fuse is associated with what you're testing. For instance, I went into the GI test, went to the right side (which was dark), then held the start button and it told me the "White/Violet" wire...I then referenced then in the manual's fuse list and boom...F106! Very useful to know moving forward!
heh... I didn't know either...
Quoted from lyonsden:Thanks for the feedback, but do you mean cut down on the number of effects?
Well, I personally think it would be better.... but that's just my humble opinion.... I get it that some people like to go over the top sometimes
Quoted from kpg:The 3rd magnet mod looks awesome! Probably won't ever do it, but is looks killer.. should have been on all production games.
+1
Quoted from LitzDoc:Hi Guys.
I changed my clock board today to an Indigo Board. It works well. One question on this. The bottom left screw on the back of the clock does not reach and engage the threads when I have the metal ball deflector in. It was fine prior to putting the board in . Right now I have the clock in without the metal ball deflector. Any thoughts on that?
Second problem that has happened before. ( I don't think it is a result of changing out the clock board) I now get F1,F3,F5, F7 EOS flipper error. The game shuts down when I press one or both flippers. Please advise.
Thank you very much,
Indigo? damn auto-corrector!!!
1 week later
Quoted from kpg:Just installed the Pinsound board + Flipper Fidelity backbox speaker & sub upgrade w/ the 2.1 Stereo wiring harness. Loaded the Chris Granner remix sound file.. and wow... TZ sounds SO much better this way. I know its a pricey upgrade, but it transforms the machine.
Post some videos!!!
3 weeks later
2 weeks later
Just wanted to share some pics of my pride and joy... Working flawlessly, no free-play dot... TZ is a blast!
IMG_20161010_195121 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170131_075818 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170131_082348 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170131_082519 (resized).jpg
1 week later
Quoted from alistaircg:Made a custom magnet for the top ramp and it cost practically nothing.
Got two cheap cupboard magnets, a piece of 3M double sided tape that I use for my go pro mounts.
Fits like a glove in the space and works really well. I decided to go for two for shits and giggles but as a result the ball comes to a complete stop on the ramp, it looks a bit eerie the way it does, as it just looses all its momentum and does not bounce at all.
Dead stop, until the tip over
Nice to see we're back on track on this TZ thread.... for a moment I was thinking to be trapped in the "market zone"....
1 week later
Quoted from Coyote:So did they send you two different red colors? I only saw one on their site, but..
Coyote, where are the inserts with different tones of red? I really can't tell...
1 week later
Quoted from johninc:MAD Amusements
F*** it. Don't fuckin ever buy anything from that sucker.
2 weeks later
Quoted from alistaircg:I have a backboard decal I redrew to vector, you can have the artwork for free then just go get it printed someplace
Quoted from Cheeks:What does it look like?
Yeah, share it here!
1 week later
Many, many, many more.....
Quoted from Seatmandan:"Death on the left side" is one of Twilight Zones signature features. You need to learn how to be a "right side of the playfield" type of person and avoid the pops (like Coyote said) at ALL COSTS. Also the dead-end shot from the right lower flipper thru the pops is SUICIDE, and the reward is not worth the risk!
huh.... I don't get that much "death on the left side" as you guys are reporting.... In fact, my TZ is much more prone to SDTM when the ball comes from up above...
Quoted from Coyote:I would be curious to see everyone's bookkeeping totals on Right Outlane vs Left Outlane drains. (Yes! The game records these numbers!)
OK, I'll check later tonight!
Quoted from Coyote:Are there Multiballs in some games that do not have a Jackpot? Huh.
Yeah - in the Door Multiball ('Gum' 'Ball', 'Lock 1' and 'Lock 2'), the Piano is Jackpot. (Red Light). If you lock one and start, it starts at 15Mil. If you lock two and start, jackpot starts higher (50Mil? Don't remember off-hand at the moment.) Once getting the Jackpot, shoot a ball into the Camera to re-light it. If you do not get jackpot and drain back to single-ball, LOCK is lit to restart multiball for limited time.
Fast-Lock Multiball, shots into the Lock will award the awarded Fast Lock amount.
For Powerball Mania, every ball shot up to 'defeat the power' will award 50Mil. Once you get it, shoot the main ramp to re-light Battle The Power.
For LITZ - well, ... Everything is Lit. (Powerball mania jackpot is available. Door Multiball jackpot is not.)
Sicne clearing and restoring my game, my scores vary greatly. Form sucking (under 100mil) to 'good' being a 700mil game. BEFORE the restore, a good game was over 1billion. Everything under sucked.
Coyote, is there anything about TZ that you DON'T know?
Quoted from AlexSMendes:OK, I'll check later tonight!
About 170 left lanes and 60 right lane drains... Too bad it doesn't count the SDTM's...
Quoted from Coyote:Total # of balls played minus # left lanes, minus # of right outlanes.
510 balls played!
Quoted from Coyote:Wow. I'll be home in an hour, I'll post my stats. Curious to see how they hold up against yours.
Well, now I'm surprised with another statistic... Given that total of played balls, the game has just been played about 100 times in a 6 month spam... Let me check the audits again...
Quoted from nosro:That's 54% center drains.
Ok, the correct numbers are:
# games played: 93
# played balls: 511
# left outlane drains: 173
# right outlane drains: 67
PS; all my pins are set to 5-ball game.
Quoted from lyonsden:Looks like you need to replace the rubber on your game. The outlane posts look cracked, old, and dry.
Yes, it does... Changed the slingshot ones not so long ago and I shall be getting to other spots soon...
Quoted from Damien:Is it just my machine, or is it brutal trying to hot the LOCK ramp?
Only way I seem to be able to hit it, is when he slot machine ejects to the right flipper, bouncing to the left, and as it slowly rolls down the left flipper I shoot it from almost the very last point.
Otherwise, it seems nearly impossible to hit it.
Nope, piece of cake
Quoted from Seatmandan:Why did you use an FL11629-light blue coil on the lower left flipper? this coil will cause airballs and beat the snot out of the slot/clock targets, even the reinforced ones. A properly dialed in TZ can make backhands up the left ramp and all other shots with the called for FL15411 coil
Just curious why you used it!
One flipper stronger than the other? Not cool...
Quoted from Coyote:To fill in on the Lock, for those who are really anal about it, or may want to change how their game operates..
There are several lock settings that adjust how a player can start multiball:
A.2 10 - 1st Hard Lock: This setting defaults to '2'. It is easily confused with A.2 13, but is regarding the 'GUM' and 'BALL' lamps/ramp shots. Since default is '2', this means that the 1st Multiball is 'not hard'. Okay, so, this is the multiball # that you have to shoot the ramps to spell 'GUMBALL' before you can lock your second ball, OR, depending on A.2 13, get your release!
A.2 11 - 1st Hard Release: This setting indicates the first time the player has to spell 'GUM' and 'BALL' before the multiball start is ready. By default, this is the 3rd multiball. What this means is, assuming A.2 10 is set to default ('2'), and you just completed your 1st multiball. The second multiball you have to spell 'GUM' and 'BALL' once to lock ball 1. Then again to lock ball 2. Then, LOCK will be solid - no need to shoot the ramps to spell 'GUM' and 'BALL' again. Now, you start and lose multiball, and you swear you're going to get that effin' jackpot. So, you then, to get the 3rd multiball, have to spell 'GUM' and 'BALL' for lock 1, lock 2, and then *again* for the release.
A.2 12 - Last Ramp Release: This setting is the *last* (not first, like the ones above) multiball you can shoot up the Ramp (and around to the Autolauncher) to start Multiball. By default, this is '1', as the first multiball is the only one you won't have to shoot the lock to start.
A.2 13 - Last Easy Release: This setting is the *last* multiball that will allow it to start after only ONE ball is locked.
Because I've seen a lot of confusion between A.2 10 and A.2 13, here's an example of shots required to start 1st and second multiball on a game:
With the game set to defaults, and at the start of a game, you can get the first multiball by:
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL'.
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 1 locked.)
- Shoot the LOCK or Main Ramp, start Multiball.
- Multiball over.
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL'.
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 1 locked.)
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 2 locked.)
- Shoot the LOCK. (Multiball start.)
Say you change A.2 10 to '1' (1st Multiball is 'Hard Lock'), then, THIS is what you have to do:
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL'.
- Shoot the LOCK.
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL' again.
- Shoot the LOCK or Main Ramp, start Multiball.
- Multiball over.
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL'.
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 1 locked.)
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 2 locked.)
- Shoot the LOCK. (Multiball start.)
Now, taking the above into play, let's say you change A.2 12 from default of 1 to 2 (Last Ramp Release):
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL'.
- Shoot the LOCK.
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL' again.
- Shoot the LOCK or Main Ramp, start Multiball.
- Multiball over.
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL'.
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 1 locked.)
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 2 locked.)
- Shoot the LOCK or Main Ramp, start Multiball.
Now, taking the above, change A.2 11 from 3 to 2. (1st hard release.):
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL'.
- Shoot the LOCK.
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL' again.
- Shoot the LOCK or Main Ramp, start Multiball.
- Multiball over.
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL'.
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 1 locked.)
- Shoot the LOCK. (Ball 2 locked.)
- Light 'GUM' and 'BALL' again.
- Shoot the LOCK or Main Ramp, start Multiball.
So, with these 4 settings, you can really give a little nuance to how you can start Multiball.
I gotta print this and hang beside my pin!
Quoted from Coyote:I should stop talking and let you guys figure it out for yourselves.
Nah, you can keep on posting... BTW, kinda little off-topic here.. what is your degree of knowledge about TotAN?
Quoted from Coyote:ToTAN? Very very little. When the game was released, I could never get into it. Didn't care for the theme, and didn't have any in any of my arcades, so that added to the fact it wasn't a theme that caught my attention, I played it and followed it very little.
The reason I asked you is because your name was mentioned at the TotAN club thread...
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