Hey guys,

What screw do you have/use here for the plastics above the left ramp?
I feel mine arent the ones that should be there and as a result they have a lot of movement after any game and i have to replace them in their holes...

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Mine has that same screw.

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Thanks!

However i see that just above you have a screw that’s different than mine this time

I believe you are seeing screw underneath. Yours is there but at a different angle. Looks like your screw isn’t going into the lower plastic like it should. Maybe not a long enough screw!?

I do notice your screw underneath the one you have highlighted is in the wrong hole. I bet that is your problem. Switch them up

Thanks mate

Put 9.2 in w/ 15 sec ball save through 3 balls.

Don’t want customers that may be trying pins for the first time to get kicked
In the teeth by TZ

Agreed. It's bad enough in the home environment when it happens; would be awful out there on location.

I have a question when u lock the balls in after the game is over are they supposed to be released

Mine doesn’t

Mine doesn’t

If game is turned off with balls locked, they will release when game is turned on again though

Okay so if the powerball is all that's left in the trough it will keep on setting that ball of till u get a multiball and all balls are released

I can’t remember. It might kickout the lock balls first for play.

Edit. I think it does keep playing the powerball like you said

Just asking cause I had a game where the 2 were locked on a new game and Powerball was my only ball left in trough the next 3 balls went straight down the middle just seems like after a game is over it would release the balls

I get a chuckle out of this. As I type this I hear my gf dropping f bombs and fist hitting glass over ball drain.

To be fair, our machine is an ex papa machine. no ball save, the outlanes are open pretty far and game is very easy to tilt. I have not changed anything on the game. I like the challenge of it playing stingy.

Fist on the glass= girlfriend on the curb!

So nothing wrong with mine then that how it plays

Yes. That is expected.

Are these 2 tits supposed to be here? If the ball rolls down slowly it gets stuck on the pop and the tit.

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Look up Pop Bumper Posts.

Long back and forth on these during production. Those plugs can be removed, and the pop bumper posts installed.

If a ball is getting stuck, I'd guess either they are raised higher than they should be, or your game is not at sufficient pitch.

It rests on one plug and the skirt of the pop.
I will look up the posts and consider the change.
I am also planning on rebuilding the pops.
If the pop were more sensitive it might move the ball. I am sure the cup of the switch is full of dusty dirty goo.

Does anybody know what the part number for those PF plugs are or where you can source replacements from?

I am looking to put all LEDs in my game.
Do i need to add OCD board(s)?
I want all LED, so do i need a board for GI and Feature lamps?

OCD boards are nice to have but you really don't need them. Buy regular 1smd or 2smd bulbs. Turn off dimming in the game menu to eliminate flickering.
You will not have dimming effects but game will look fine. If you decide later to get ocd boards to get the dimming effects, you can just plug them in.

I disagree with all the others, as I can not f*cking stand the hard "on/off" of LEDs. (Not even dimming-related, I'm meaning the lack of warmnup/cooldown that LEDs don't have over filiment bulbs.) So, I would say they're required for me.

these are new / kinda kool ( maybe ? ) - not mine . . .

ebay.com link: itm

looks like all Bally / Williams playfield signs are being sold / offered

Agree with everything said. Flickering digital on/off drives me up the wall - i want to see the lightshow as designed, so my choices are either to use incandescants, or use basic comet Leds with OCD boards - lovely soft ramp up and down, controllable brightness & original lightshow. The middle ground is not somewhere i want to be.

I still struggle with Metallica and Walking Dead Premium - they both look faulty with all that blinking! Both Pro versions actually look much better with an OCD board in.

Those are cool! For on the wall
The shop does not have most of my games unfortunately..

Thanks for all of the input. I have leds in High Speed and if the lights are off in the game room the flashing can be hard on the eyes. I will wait and think it over.

They are a pricey upgrade, but I definitely recommend the GI OCD and LED OCD boards.

I was surprised how much dimming the GI does that I was missing out on after I upgraded to LEDs, to me it was more pronounced than the insert effects.

Looks fantastic with the OCD boards installed when playing with the brightness of LEDs and the proper dimming/fading effects!

For anyone that has added Comet's Upper Playfield lighting kit for the post lights, can you please explain to me how you installed the lights and wired these things together? The instructions provided are pretty vague and I can't find any videos online. I have the mini playfield removed but haven't started disassembling anything beyond that. Appreciate the help as always!

Hey all, been waiting to join this thread for a long time, maybe like 5 years? I thought it would have happened by now. I am looking for anyone in western Canada who is willing to sell me a TZ for a fair price. Tired of this run around, I want in the club but I can't afford to do it indiscriminately.

My game has code L3.
I will be upgrading to 9.4CH so i can have ball save on all 3 balls.

Looking at ipdb i noticed there were also sound updates. Since my game has old code it is safe to assume it also has original sound roms.
Is it worth buying latest sound roms as well?

Do NOT use 9.4CH. Use 9.4H. Do NOT support that shit.

If you're buying - up to you. No sound changes, just bug fixes. You can tell by looking at your game in Test mode, or the labels on the sound board.

Out of curiosity, what’s the difference between CH and H? I never heard of 9.4CH

H is home: freeplay only
CH is home and "coin op" ?

All of my games are coin op so freeplay wont work for me.
My parents would rarely give me a quarter to play. Now I have a bucket of quarters in my game room. Help yourself.

The 9.4BH and CH were hacks of Ted Estes' 9.4H. The person(s) that did this went against Ted's wishes, and is the reason we do not have a 9.5 and more.

You can still ACCEPT coins in 9.4H, and it will still count CREDITS. You will just be able to hit start when CREDITS=0.

Use 9.2. As someone previously mentioned, it has ball-save, and Free Play can be turned off.

I understand the sentiment to not want them to use 9.4CH, but is it really any different than the newer Stern's having movie clips and sounds added in by "hackers" or 6.0 code for DE Jurassic Park, etc?

It's been over 25 years at this point, what's done is done. Maybe someone else will make 9.5+?

I get the sentiment and respect for Ted. And not defending the CH version, but what much of what people do here are considered hacks. I'm all for the hacks and would love to see a 9.5 or even 10. Hell I'd like to see all the original Bally/Williams Roms edited and updated. Can be done legally now so I don't see what the big deal is. As long as the original Roms are not included in the modification. This could be done by just distributing the delta of the roms. I myself have the CH and like that I have options.

Had no idea who ted estes was.
Googled him. He works for jersey jack now.
Thats cool.

After disassembly my TZ clock I found this little piece on the table. I can't figure out where it belongs. Can you please help me? Thank you

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It looks like yzfguy adapter.
Does it fit over the end of the shaft where the minute hand is?

Starting a rebuild of my TZ and noticed the right flipper coil was replaced in the past. I think it should have a FL-15411 on both main flippers. Can somebody confirm?

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Yes. FL-15411 are for lower flippers. FL-11722 is upper right and FL-11753 is upper left flipper.

No it doesn't. Pinball is stock, clock was never shopped.
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Whoever rebuilt mine had a weak flipper on the right side and the 15411 on the upper right, which is backwards. Had to relearn playing once I got some power on the right side. Much better!

That does not come in a stock TZ.