(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 39 hours ago by pjflyer
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There are 15,211 posts in this topic. You are on page 194 of 305.
#9651 3 years ago

I am getting a intermittent fault in my clock. Sometimes it doesn't reset to midnight and I get a code that helpfully says "Clock Broken". However, if I restart the game it fixes itself. I am guessing one of the light diodes just needs cleaning but when I went into the clock test menu it says everything is working. However, the hour is clicking over 15 minutes early. So at 8:45 on the minutes it clicks to 9 on the hour. That seems weird to me but maybe that is how it is set up. Any ideas?

0130211215_HDR (resized).jpg0130211215_HDR (resized).jpg
#9652 3 years ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

I am getting a intermittent fault in my clock. Sometimes it doesn't reset to midnight and I get a code that helpfully says "Clock Broken". However, if I restart the game it fixes itself. I am guessing one of the light diodes just needs cleaning but when I went into the clock test menu it says everything is working. However, the hour is clicking over 15 minutes early. So at 8:45 on the minutes it clicks to 9 on the hour. That seems weird to me but maybe that is how it is set up. Any ideas?
[quoted image]

Yes, the hour should change somewhere near the bottom of the hour. i.e. Minute hand on the bottom half of the clock. That is expected.

#9653 3 years ago

Finally finished shopping out and upgrading my Twilight Zone!

Since I got it in December I have:

1. Changed out the lighting from clown to 2smd sunlight comets, added backboard and trough comet matrix light strips.
2. Added LED Color DMD
3. Removed peeling mylar in places
4. Slight playfield touchup
5. Thorough cleanup and shopout
6. Added backboard, side, lamp, and flip decals
7. New instruction cards
8. Added rocket, piano, and pyramid toy (3-d printing is neat!).

All in all, so much better than the one at Crabtowne. This will not be a long term keeper for me but I am having fun with it!

Before7c6dea62d201f878958eed98d14036921e54c66d (resized).jpg7c6dea62d201f878958eed98d14036921e54c66d (resized).jpg

After20210130_164236 (resized).jpg20210130_164236 (resized).jpg20210130_164250 (resized).jpg20210130_164250 (resized).jpg

Feel like I've got that world under glass now.

#9654 3 years ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Finally finished shopping out and upgrading my Twilight Zone!
Since I got it in December I have:
1. Changed out the lighting from clown to 2smd sunlight comets, added backboard and trough comet matrix light strips.
2. Added LED Color DMD
3. Removed peeling mylar in places
4. Slight playfield touchup
5. Thorough cleanup and shopout
6. Added backboard, side, lamp, and flip decals
7. New instruction cards
8. Added rocket, piano, and pyramid toy (3-d printing is neat!).
All in all, so much better than the one at Crabtowne. This will not be a long term keeper for me but I am having fun with it!
Before[quoted image]
After[quoted image][quoted image]
Feel like I've got that world under glass now.

Not sure about those decals, but it looks so much better with white bulbs than it did clowned up!

#9655 3 years ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Finally finished shopping out and upgrading my Twilight Zone!
Since I got it in December I have:
1. Changed out the lighting from clown to 2smd sunlight comets, added backboard and trough comet matrix light strips.
2. Added LED Color DMD
3. Removed peeling mylar in places
4. Slight playfield touchup
5. Thorough cleanup and shopout
6. Added backboard, side, lamp, and flip decals
7. New instruction cards
8. Added rocket, piano, and pyramid toy (3-d printing is neat!).
All in all, so much better than the one at Crabtowne. This will not be a long term keeper for me but I am having fun with it!
Before[quoted image]
After[quoted image][quoted image]
Feel like I've got that world under glass now.

That's a lot of Spirals going on...

The lighting definitely looks improved. Much brighter! Enjoy!

#9656 3 years ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Finally finished shopping out and upgrading my Twilight Zone!
Since I got it in December I have:
1. Changed out the lighting from clown to 2smd sunlight comets, added backboard and trough comet matrix light strips.
2. Added LED Color DMD
3. Removed peeling mylar in places
4. Slight playfield touchup
5. Thorough cleanup and shopout
6. Added backboard, side, lamp, and flip decals
7. New instruction cards
8. Added rocket, piano, and pyramid toy (3-d printing is neat!).
All in all, so much better than the one at Crabtowne. This will not be a long term keeper for me but I am having fun with it!
Before[quoted image]
After[quoted image][quoted image]
Feel like I've got that world under glass now.

Spirals look great!!

#9657 3 years ago

Does anyone make invisi glass for TZ or voodoo glass?

#9658 3 years ago
Quoted from Jecco74:

Does anyone make invisi glass for TZ or voodoo glass?

Yep TZ just a standard B/W widebody - so you can get PDI, Invisi or Voodoo

https://www.pinballdecals.com/NonGlareOpticalGlassPage.html
https://nitropinball.com/products/non-reflective-pinball-glass-widebody
JJP sells widebody invisiglass

Just double check the glass size before purchasing

#9659 3 years ago

Your pop bumper caps are in the wrong spots. They are ordered to the skill shot.

Top left - red
Top right - orange
Lower - yellow.

I really like your back light strip. Really brightens up the game.

#9660 3 years ago
Quoted from Jecco74:

Does anyone make invisi glass for TZ or voodoo glass?

I have Invisiglass on TZ, Voodoo glass on AIQ & ID4 and Stern HD glass on Deadpool. To me - they are all very similar and work well.

#9661 3 years ago
Quoted from jake35:

Thanks Davi! Got the spiral on tonight.
[quoted image]

where can I order this awesome spiral mod?!

#9662 3 years ago
Quoted from Stebel:

Your pop bumper caps are in the wrong spots. They are ordered to the skill shot.
Top left - red
Top right - orange
Lower - yellow.
I really like your back light strip. Really brightens up the game.

Hmmmm... I'm not sure which is correct, Mine are Top Left Red, Top Right Yellow, Lower Orange.

You have me wondering now... Hard to tell exactly from the flyer, but doesn't look like yellow on the lower one.

TZ Flyer.jpgTZ Flyer.jpg
#9663 3 years ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Hmmmm... I'm not sure which is correct, Mine are Top Left Red, Top Right Yellow, Lower Orange.
You have me wondering now... Hard to tell exactly from the flyer, but doesn't look like yellow on the lower one.
[quoted image]

It *was* a well-known fact back in RGP days that the flyer had the cap colors wrong. Should match the order/positioning of the 'score' inserts in the powerfield.

#9664 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

It *was* a well-known fact back in RGP days that the flyer had the cap colors wrong. Should match the order/positioning of the 'score' inserts in the powerfield.

I knew there would be a quick "correct" answer, thank you!

I didn't have my TZ yet back when I frequented RGP.

#9665 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

It *was* a well-known fact back in RGP days that the flyer had the cap colors wrong. Should match the order/positioning of the 'score' inserts in the powerfield.

The plethora of knowledge here is amazing!

#9666 3 years ago

I thought this was interesting. TZ is both the most owned (by a large margin) and most wished for.

Screenshot 2021-01-31 124342 (resized).pngScreenshot 2021-01-31 124342 (resized).png
#9667 3 years ago

Hey guys. New to the club here. And stupid question I can't seem to find an answer for...

I'm looking to bomb proof this machine. As a previous owner of Addams I recall this was one of the very first things I did. I don't see the number of burned playfields like Addams has and was curious to know if I should bother with fusing them. Side note: I guess these magnets are a different design?

#9668 3 years ago
Quoted from lurch:

Hey guys. New to the club here. And stupid question I can't seem to find an answer for...
I'm looking to bomb proof this machine. As a previous owner of Addams I recall this was one of the very first things I did. I don't see the number of burned playfields like Addams has and was curious to know if I should bother with fusing them. Side note: I guess these magnets are a different design?

There are no magnets under the playfield like on addams. **Ooooh, forgot about powerfield!

#9669 3 years ago
Quoted from lurch:

Hey guys. New to the club here. And stupid question I can't seem to find an answer for...
I'm looking to bomb proof this machine. As a previous owner of Addams I recall this was one of the very first things I did. I don't see the number of burned playfields like Addams has and was curious to know if I should bother with fusing them. Side note: I guess these magnets are a different design?

Likely your magnets are already fused. (You can tell by the magnet, if there seems to be a large part of the windings that aren't 'round' under the tape.) However, I have NEVER seen an overheated PF (or powerfield).

Not saying it's not possible, but I would focus on other things than this.

Quoted from awesome1:

I knew there would be a quick "correct" answer, thank you!
I didn't have my TZ yet back when I frequented RGP.

Quoted from alexanr1:

The plethora of knowledge here is amazing!

I will admit that back in the day, there were a handful of owners that took the stance that "since it's like that in the flyer, that much be how it is supposed to be!". However, the software treats it as the same as the powerfield - get an orange skill shot, and the red and orange pop bumpers light up. (Assuing NONE were lit to begin with..)

#9670 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

It is a little tedious. I bought a small rivet press and it wasn't easy. If I were to do it again, I'd buy stainless screws and nuts and assemble it that way...

Can you tell me a bit more about how you disassembled the previous lamp? Specifically, how you cut the rivets out?

I have a spare lamp that cans with the game so I’m not really worried about breaking it so long as I can keep the lighting assembly intact. Appreciate the help!

#9671 3 years ago
Quoted from atg1469:

Can you tell me a bit more about how you disassembled the previous lamp? Specifically, how you cut the rivets out?
I have a spare lamp that cans with the game so I’m not really worried about breaking it so long as I can keep the lighting assembly intact. Appreciate the help!

I used a small drill bit and drilled out the rivets. It was a pain in the neck, but stick with it, it looks awesome when you're done. It was challenging not to scratch the chrome when trying to reassemble, so be careful and take your time.

#9672 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I used a small drill bit and drilled out the rivets. It was a pain in the neck, but stick with it, it looks awesome when you're done. It was challenging not to scratch the chrome when trying to reassemble, so be careful and take your time.

Why not just buy new lamp holders? Three of them is like $5 or less.

#9673 3 years ago

Why are all the car mods of mid-50s red Ford Thunderbirds when the car used in the Hitch-Hiker episode is a light colored 1959 Mercury Montclair? Only other reference to a T-Bird I could find in the TZ series was a 1962 model in a different episode.

Or is everyone trying to match the red convertible car pictured on the playfield? That's not a 50s T-Bird either but its closer.

Just curious.

#9674 3 years ago
Quoted from THJM:

Why are all the car mods of mid-50s red Ford Thunderbirds when the car used in the Hitch-Hiker episode is a light colored 1959 Mercury Montclair? Only other reference to a T-Bird I could find in the TZ series was a 1962 model in a different episode.
Or is everyone trying to match the red convertible car pictured on the playfield? That's not a 50s T-Bird either but its closer.
Just curious.

Because, "MODS!"

#9675 3 years ago

Yes I know: to mod is not the question, it is the answer!

#9676 3 years ago
Quoted from bikefreak:

Why not just buy new lamp holders? Three of them is like $5 or less.

I just used the existing harness and all.

#9677 3 years ago

Anyone know where to get the low profile switches for the upper playfield? Google search brings up an old website that doesn't appear to be monitored anymore.
I sent them an email months ago and never heard back.

Great Lakes Modular Logo

TZ-MPS-KIT

#9678 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I just used the existing harness and all.

I agree either works. Getting new sockets and unsoldering the harness from the old doesn't require a drill and makes moving back to (or selling or reusing) the old lamp possible. Again both work, just sharing my experience.

#9679 3 years ago
Quoted from Jecco74:

Anyone know where to get the low profile switches for the upper playfield? Google search brings up an old website that doesn't appear to be monitored anymore.
I sent them an email months ago and never heard back.
Great Lakes Modular Logo
TZ-MPS-KIT

I believe Twister makes them - send him a PM

#9680 3 years ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

I am getting a intermittent fault in my clock. Sometimes it doesn't reset to midnight and I get a code that helpfully says "Clock Broken". However, if I restart the game it fixes itself. I am guessing one of the light diodes just needs cleaning but when I went into the clock test menu it says everything is working. However, the hour is clicking over 15 minutes early. So at 8:45 on the minutes it clicks to 9 on the hour. That seems weird to me but maybe that is how it is set up. Any ideas?
[quoted image]

I am still struggling to figure out how to keep my clock from faulting. I have taken it apart and cleaned the opts on the front face. It seems to test okay and it resets fine at the startup of every game. However when it is activated during a game in clock mods it seems to fault and stays at a weird spot (I will try to catch it, maybe it is the same spot every time). It doesn't really effect game play but it just drives me crazy. Before I try and tear the clock apart has anyone had a similar problem?

#9681 3 years ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

I am still struggling to figure out how to keep my clock from faulting. I have taken it apart and cleaned the opts on the front face. It seems to test okay and it resets fine at the startup of every game. However when it is activated during a game in clock mods it seems to fault and stays at a weird spot (I will try to catch it, maybe it is the same spot every time). It doesn't really effect game play but it just drives me crazy. Before I try and tear the clock apart has anyone had a similar problem?

I have been diving into the forums and it seems like there are bunch of issues with the clock. I am going to tear it apart and check the optos inside and if that doesn't work then order the German board.

#9682 3 years ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

I am still struggling to figure out how to keep my clock from faulting. I have taken it apart and cleaned the opts on the front face. It seems to test okay and it resets fine at the startup of every game. However when it is activated during a game in clock mods it seems to fault and stays at a weird spot (I will try to catch it, maybe it is the same spot every time). It doesn't really effect game play....

Killerrobots: If you want to try a "loaner" clock board with the 12 LEDs, let me know. You're local (I'm in Loveland) and we build that clock circuit in-house.

#9683 3 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Killerrobots: If you want to try a "loaner" clock board with the 12 LEDs, let me know. You're local (I'm in Loveland) and we build that clock circuit in-house.

Hey thanks for the offer. Let me see if I can figure it out and I will let you know.

#9684 3 years ago

Felt like taking the whole thing apart today
It will get brand new leds, new silicone rubbers, new foam pads behind the targets, a spotlight or two, all plastics and metal parts will be cleaned, new balls, new coilsleeves and coilstops, cliffy protectors and the whole playfield will be cleaned.

Anyone got advice on making the game lighter in the back? Thanks

20210202_212747_HDR (resized).jpg20210202_212747_HDR (resized).jpg20210202_212755 (resized).jpg20210202_212755 (resized).jpg

#9685 3 years ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

Felt like taking the whole thing apart today
It will get brand new leds, new silicone rubbers, new foam pads behind the targets, a spotlight or two, all plastics and metal parts will be cleaned, new balls, new coilsleeves and coilstops, cliffy protectors and the whole playfield will be cleaned.
Anyone got advice on making the game lighter in the back? Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]

I have a white led strip tucked up in the back tied into the g.i.

#9686 3 years ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

Felt like taking the whole thing apart today
It will get brand new leds, new silicone rubbers, new foam pads behind the targets, a spotlight or two, all plastics and metal parts will be cleaned, new balls, new coilsleeves and coilstops, cliffy protectors and the whole playfield will be cleaned.
Anyone got advice on making the game lighter in the back? Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from yzfguy:

I have a white led strip tucked up in the back tied into the g.i.

I found that an LED strip was just too bright and washed out colors around the back. Tried separating small strips of LED's, but again too bright. Not sure if you want to do this, but I lowered the head and drilled 1/2"+ holes through the upper wood of the cabinet, just in front of the back of the playfield. I did just four holes and mounted lamp sockets tieing them to the GI circuit. Had to modify the lamp sockets to work this way. I felt this hid the lamps and was just enough light and looks great. Here is what it looks like.

20201007_164545 (resized).jpg20201007_164545 (resized).jpg
#9687 3 years ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

I found that an LED strip was just too bright and washed out colors around the back. Tried separating small strips of LED's, but again too bright. Not sure if you want to do this, but I lowered the head and drilled 1/2"+ holes through the upper wood of the cabinet, just in front of the back of the playfield. I did just four holes and mounted lamp sockets tieing them to the GI circuit. Had to modify the lamp sockets to work this way. I felt this hid the lamps and was just enough light and looks great. Here is what it looks like.[quoted image]

That looks nice. I don't think mine is overly bright, but it's not the full width. Maybe some electrical tape over parts of the strip would be easier and more temporary than drilling holes if it's too bright.

#9688 3 years ago

Comet sells a dimmer for the strips.

#9689 3 years ago

Does anyone have any leads on where one might find a blue clock housing for sale?!

#9690 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

That looks nice. I don't think mine is overly bright, but it's not the full width. Maybe some electrical tape over parts of the strip would be easier and more temporary than drilling holes if it's too bright.

Quoted from PinballAir:

Comet sells a dimmer for the strips.

I did this about 12+ years ago and we didn't have that many options then. Again it's a personal choice, what do you like?

#9692 3 years ago

Good luck with that, I did order my Ingo board 6 weeks ago and still nothing in the post. (for the record I live in France and from Germany it should be a 4-days DHL shipment).
Been trying to get some updates from Ingo but no replies since more than two weeks now and all i have is a wrong DHL tracking number meaning I can't even follow up online to see where the shipment is.
The thing that bugs me is that I haven't received any email confirmation of my purchase after paying through Paypal. this purchase has been very blurry.
I had to send Ingo 4 emails (no replies) and eventually found them on Pinside to finally have a reply through PM that my order had been received weeks ago. As I write now it's been over two weeks since the board supposedly has been shipped indeed via DHL (Germany to France) but nothing in the post yet and no answers from Ingo nor Teresa since. A bit annoying to not know what's happening...

#9693 3 years ago
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:

Good luck with that, I did order my Ingo board 6 weeks ago and still nothing in the post. (for the record I live in France and from Germany it should be a 4-days DHL shipment).
Been trying to get some updates from Ingo but no replies since more than two weeks now and all i have is a wrong DHL tracking number meaning I can't even follow up online to see where the shipment is.
The thing that bugs me is that I haven't received any email confirmation of my purchase after paying through Paypal. this purchase has been very blurry.
I had to send Ingo 4 emails (no replies) and eventually found them on Pinside to finally have a reply through PM that my order had been received weeks ago. As I write now it's been over two weeks since the board supposedly has been shipped indeed via DHL (Germany to France) but nothing in the post yet and no answers from Ingo nor Teresa since. A bit annoying to not know what's happening...

Wow! Ingo is a no go! What a bunch of crap

#9694 3 years ago

My led strip-in-the-back.

IMG_20210203_162851481 (resized).jpgIMG_20210203_162851481 (resized).jpg
#9695 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

My led strip-in-the-back.[quoted image]

How long of a strip did you use?

#9696 3 years ago
Quoted from Stebel:

How long of a strip did you use?

Pretty sure it's 8". (Thats what she tells me, anyway). I centered it and stuck it so it's facing away from the player. If it's aiming down towards the playfield, you can see reflections of the LEDs in the plastics and ramps.

#9697 3 years ago

If I'm going to be upgrading the lighting in the back, it will need a backboard decal instead of the black wood.
Is it possible to install a decal even when the game is put back together? Or is it easier to do it while the game is disassembled?
Will try to find a nice decal here in Europe

#9698 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Pretty sure it's 8". (Thats what she tells me, anyway). I centered it and stuck it so it's facing away from the player. If it's aiming down towards the playfield, you can see reflections of the LEDs in the plastics and ramps.

Thank you. I’ll be copying you, as it looks great. I have a smoke ramp and it really makes the back look dark. The strip is perfect.

#9699 3 years ago
Quoted from Stebel:

Thank you. I’ll be copying you, as it looks great. I have a smoke ramp and it really makes the back look dark. The strip is perfect.

Thanks, I do have a 3" led around the inside lip of the gumball machine, so that is lighting up the gumballs and throwing some light on the left side as well.

#9700 3 years ago

Was the 8" strip clear or frosted.
I think that is the perfect amount of light back there. No dimmer needed.
Is that a strip from Comet?

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