(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

5 years ago



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There are 7373 posts in this topic. You are on page 19 of 148.
#901 4 years ago

Haven't done it yet, was falling asleep yesterday. It seems like I can just wedge it between the clock and bracket. It won't be a graceful fit but it will probably fit like the above picture.

#903 4 years ago

I know this is not a tech thread but thought someone may have info on this proximity board for the ball trough.
I purchased it about 8 months ago and it has worked great. But now for some reason it is stuck on.
I thought maybe the little gold screw in the blue plastic part was a pot adjustment, but it does not seem to do anything but spin in place.
Is there an adjustment on these boards I'm missing or maybe testing it wrong. I thought the red LED was for when it sensed a metal ball but maybe it is just for power?
I'm sure someone in the group probably has this and knows more then I do.

3351.jpg
#904 4 years ago

I want back in - looking to buy a TZ, would like a sample possibly.

#905 4 years ago

Alright I've reinstalled my clock and it's not working. This is the first time I've powered the machine on since I bought it two months ago so there's a chance I messed up something else. I checked and reseated the 3 connectors and the connection to the motor, I also reseated the 2 clock connectors. When the game boots up the clock power and 3 LED are lit. When I run clock test, the diagnostic LEDs are on but they're flickering, I'm not sure if that's normal. The optos do appear to work, although the game is reporting them all as closed.

I still need to mess with it, I'm about to swap my RottenDog board back in and see what happens, but I figured you guys have all gone through clock problems.

#906 4 years ago
Quoted from DefaultGen:

Alright I've reinstalled my clock and it's not working. This is the first time I've powered the machine on since I bought it two months ago so there's a chance I messed up something else. I checked and reseated the 3 connectors and the connection to the motor, I also reseated the 2 clock connectors. When the game boots up the clock power and 3 LED are lit. When I run clock test, the diagnostic LEDs are on but they're flickering, I'm not sure if that's normal. The optos do appear to work, although the game is reporting them all as closed.
I still need to mess with it, I'm about to swap my RottenDog board back in and see what happens, but I figured you guys have all gone through clock problems.
» YouTube video

Private video

#907 4 years ago

Fixed (the video anyway)

I tried my RD board, 6 of the 8 optos register in the game, the 15 and 45 optos are stuck on. The motor still doesn't work though. Bleh, troubleshooting time... after a nap.

#908 4 years ago
Quoted from DefaultGen:

Fixed (the video anyway)
» YouTube video
I tried my RD board, 6 of the 8 optos register in the game, the 15 and 45 optos are stuck on. The motor still doesn't work though. Bleh, troubleshooting time... after a nap.

The motor is a separate wire coming off the back you sure its plugged in ? If so make sure where its plugged in is getting power

#909 4 years ago

I don't see your 'hour hand' installed.
So it cannot register the hours, even if your motor works.

#910 4 years ago

There should be two wires that are solder to the back of the clock. Red and black I believe. Has one become loose?

#911 4 years ago

I took the front off of the clock for a better look. Does the hour hand actually do anything? The behavior is the same with the hands installed. I've been manually breaking the optos with a zip tie to test them out. It sounds like the motor should be working regardless of the clock board so I'll troubleshoot that this weekend.

#912 4 years ago
Quoted from DefaultGen:

I took the front off of the clock for a better look. Does the hour hand actually do anything? The behavior is the same with the hands installed. I've been manually breaking the optos with a zip tie to test them out. It sounds like the motor should be working regardless of the clock board so I'll troubleshoot that this weekend.

Hour hand can be off. The hour hand does not break any optos - the disc it's connected to in the back of the clock does, so that's fine.

I would check your motor wires, like others have mentioned, then check the motor driver board under the playfield.

#913 4 years ago

After more testing and tracing wires than I'll admit to, the whole thing was just a small connector under the playfield (black, gray/yel) unseated that caused both the board and motor issue. For the record the Ingo board LEDs are not supposed to flicker like that. Pinball is hard.

Almost done now... Maybe today if I put my evening into this game. Anyone who says its more laborious to shop out STTNG is crazy.

#914 4 years ago
Quoted from Invader:

I upgraded the powerfield with cold white LEDs under the star posts.
Added warm white LEDs behind the two signs.
GLM switches.
Clear lexan cover under the playfield
Blue LED under playfield that shines on the Hitchhiker guy.
Ehhh... and a some more things I forgot right now.
Replaced translite glass with bestofpinball anti-glare sheet, behind a next gen translite and NoFlix LEDs.
Also a RGB LED strip behind Rod Sterling, it looks freakin awesome but could not get the awesomeness on the picture though.
One bummer of the the awesome translite is the extreme glare on the playfield glass
(got anti glare filter on the DMD btw)
Hmmm... how can I fix this Translite glare on my playfield glass?
Don't want to dim the light of the backbox...

Invisiglass!

#915 4 years ago

My bridge diverters sometimes throwes the ball behind my spiral sign and it gets stuck
Happened a few times now, so I bend a small piece of 1mm lexan, screwed it on a bracket en onto the mini playfield.
This should prevent the ball getting stuck there

Also when I play in the dark, the area between the lower flippers is very dark.
Added a spotlight (with tie wraps on the rail... ) with cold white LED shining in the middle of the flippers.
Works perfect

image.jpg image-380.jpg image-549.jpg
#916 4 years ago

I found this posting for TZ owners and was hoping someone can help me out. My TZ is shorting out everytime it goes onto the small pf and I use my fipper. I believe everytime the magnet is activated it draws too much power and shorts out the whole game. Anyone have this issue and might be able to direct me in the right direction?

Thanks
A.M.

#917 4 years ago

Shorts out or resets?

#918 4 years ago

Ingo's clock installed. Took some trial and error to get the opto sensors in the right position so they wouldn't hit the hands but it's working well now.

image.jpg
#919 4 years ago

Anybody know the differences between opto boards on early sample games with 3rd magnet VS the production games?
Magiccchiz

#920 4 years ago

I installed Ingo's board today. Both the clock and Ingo's board are quite the pieces of engineering! Super board, easy to install, built like a Lange & Söhne watch--I highly recommend it.

#921 4 years ago
Quoted from Magicchiz:

Anybody know the differences between opto boards on early sample games with 3rd magnet VS the production games?
Magiccchiz

Sample games had two 7-opto boards.
Production games had *1* 10-opto board.

#922 4 years ago
Quoted from realwhiz:

I found this posting for TZ owners and was hoping someone can help me out. My TZ is shorting out everytime it goes onto the small pf and I use my fipper. I believe everytime the magnet is activated it draws too much power and shorts out the whole game. Anyone have this issue and might be able to direct me in the right direction?
Thanks
A.M.

You haven't mixed up the connectors below the powerfield by mistake? (magnets to switches?)

#923 4 years ago
photo_2015-06-03_00-23-52.jpg
#924 4 years ago

Some of you guys are going to hate me for this, but I applied new (cheap, not original) decals over my old (faded and damaged) decals
Also without removing the playfield and putting the cabinet on the side etc.

Why? Because I don't have the space, tools and time to do so currently.
And old decals were ugly and I needed to get it look better, so I tried this "easy" way

I also got new original decals (with correct color scheme) in stock, I hope sometime in my life, I have the time to do a full renovation of my TZ.
Then I'll apply the decals the right way

But for now, this turned out pretty good luckily!
Some minor imperfections, but waaaay better looking than with old decals.
I did fill the deep scratches/holes with bondo and sanded it by the way.
At the legs I didn't fill it up, because I'm using leg protectors, so you can see that on the picture.
I was afraid the old decal would shine through, but that's not the case woohoo.

OH and to get the two big bolts out from the side of the cabinet, I lifted the playfield a bit with a bunch of tape rolls
Just had to work with the stuff I got.

And I replaced the siderails with shiny black ones, and black leg+bolts+leveler.

IMG_2442.JPG IMG_2447.jpg
#925 4 years ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

Ingo's clock installed. Took some trial and error to get the opto sensors in the right position so they wouldn't hit the hands but it's working well now.

image.jpg

I got Ingo's clock board last week. I am ready to install. I have not done much of this kind of work on my TZ. Do you have any pointers on how to install the board without screwing other things up in the pin? I am a little nervous because my TZ is rock solid electronically and I dont want to cause problems.

Thanks
CB

#926 4 years ago
Quoted from Invader:

Some of you guys are going to hate me for this, but I applied new (cheap, not original) decals over my old (faded and damaged) decals
Also without removing the playfield and putting the cabinet on the side etc.
Why? Because I don't have the space, tools and time to do so currently.
And old decals were ugly and I needed to get it look better, so I tried this "easy" way
I also got new original decals (with correct color scheme) in stock, I hope sometime in my life, I have the time to do a full renovation of my TZ.
Then I'll apply the decals the right way
But for now, this turned out pretty good luckily!
Some minor imperfections, but waaaay better looking than with old decals.
I did fill the deep scratches/holes with bondo and sanded it by the way.
At the legs I didn't fill it up, because I'm using leg protectors, so you can see that on the picture.
I was afraid the old decal would shine through, but that's not the case woohoo.
OH and to get the two big bolts out from the side of the cabinet, I lifted the playfield a bit with a bunch of tape rolls
Just had to work with the stuff I got.
And I replaced the siderails with shiny black ones, and black leg+bolts+leveler.

IMG_2442.JPG
IMG_2447.jpg

From the picture there's no way to see the minor imperfections, and it looks real good! I like the black metals as well!

Also liked the internal side-art!

Good job man! Now enjoy!!!!

#927 4 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

I got Ingo's clock board last week. I am ready to install. I have not done much of this kind of work on my TZ. Do you have any pointers on how to install the board without screwing other things up in the pin? I am a little nervous because my TZ is rock solid electronically and I dont want to cause problems.
Thanks
CB

Mine still underway.... brazilian customs are a b****!

But I'm looking forward to read the replies of your post, because I've got the exact same problem.... I don't have the necessary skills and I'm so f**** afraid to s**** things up!!!!

PS: Moderators, sorry for so many **** words!

#928 4 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

I got Ingo's clock board last week. I am ready to install. I have not done much of this kind of work on my TZ. Do you have any pointers on how to install the board without screwing other things up in the pin? I am a little nervous because my TZ is rock solid electronically and I dont want to cause problems.
Thanks
CB

The one and MAJOR pointer that I can give you is to make sure the clock is at the 12 o'clock position before swapping at the boards. You want the gears set to that. If you don't, you will have major problems. Also, when you take the clock a part and remove the hands, don't lose the pin that holds everything together. Here's a doc that explains everything in detail from Ingo.

http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/tz-clock-instruction-english.html

#929 4 years ago

I agree on the Ingo Board swap. I too was kinda freaked out about the install. Having never touched the clock before. but if you follow Ingo's instructions from his site. It is smooth sailing. Just use common sense and read the instructions a few times before doing it. It will be fine. Also as stated above. make sure the clock it true to midnight.
magicchiz

#930 4 years ago

Removing the clock and replacing the board is really very simple, I can do it in 2 minutes now.

1. Remove the plastic around the clock (if you have a piano, undo the screw holding it on first)
2. Unhook the motor power connector that's under the playfield and feed up through the Pf.
3. Undo the 2 screws holding the clock bracket
4. Lift clock and pull off two connectors. Clock will now be free.
5. Remove plastic face
6. Remove ear clip that holds hands on
7. Pull off hands, noting orientation (watch the pin underneath minute hand so you don't lose it.)
8. Undo 4 screws holding bracket in back and pull the motor and gears back (it's all one piece.)
9. Pull out board and replace it making sure you put it in oriented the right way.
10. Clean and lube the gears while you are there.
11. Button it all back up.

I'm going from memory as it's been a few months since I've done it, but It should not intimidate anyone as its about a 3 on a scale of 1 to 10 with 1 being changing a bulb.

Others can chime in with tips or if I've missed something. I was in the same boat with mine not too long ago so hope this helps out.

#931 4 years ago
Quoted from Invader:

Some of you guys are going to hate me for this, but I applied new (cheap, not original) decals over my old (faded and damaged) decals
Also without removing the playfield and putting the cabinet on the side etc.
Why? Because I don't have the space, tools and time to do so currently.
And old decals were ugly and I needed to get it look better, so I tried this "easy" way
I also got new original decals (with correct color scheme) in stock, I hope sometime in my life, I have the time to do a full renovation of my TZ.
Then I'll apply the decals the right way
But for now, this turned out pretty good luckily!
Some minor imperfections, but waaaay better looking than with old decals.
I did fill the deep scratches/holes with bondo and sanded it by the way.
At the legs I didn't fill it up, because I'm using leg protectors, so you can see that on the picture.
I was afraid the old decal would shine through, but that's not the case woohoo.
OH and to get the two big bolts out from the side of the cabinet, I lifted the playfield a bit with a bunch of tape rolls
Just had to work with the stuff I got.
And I replaced the siderails with shiny black ones, and black leg+bolts+leveler.

IMG_2442.JPG
IMG_2447.jpg

Nice job! Can you tell there are two layers? Why do you have imperfections? Is it because it wasn't smooth underneath or was it due to poor adhesion of the decals? I've got new decals for mine and the thought of hours and hours of scraping, sanding and filling and more sanding, along with removing the PF is not appealing.

#932 4 years ago

Agree with all the posts above but I would say 2 minutes is overly optimistic. If this is your first time, then leave yourself plenty of time and don't rush it. I usually will cause another problem if in a hurry. Make sure you have the right size screw driver. Those Phillips screw heads are easy to strip.

#933 4 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

From the picture there's no way to see the minor imperfections, and it looks real good! I like the black metals as well!
Also liked the internal side-art!
Good job man! Now enjoy!!!!

Thanks
I'm going to do the left side and backboxes this weekend, yesterday just done the right side

Quoted from Lermods:

Nice job! Can you tell there are two layers? Why do you have imperfections? Is it because it wasn't smooth underneath or was it due to poor adhesion of the decals? I've got new decals for mine and the thought of hours and hours of scraping, sanding and filling and more sanding, along with removing the PF is not appealing.

It was due to my skills
It's my first time applying a sticker this big and I was alone.
Really sucks to do it alone, because the cabinet is straight up, I have to place the decal "vertically".
I taped the decal on place and while getting the backpaper off and sticking the decal, the tape sometimes got loose and the whole decal fell over my head and that kind of stuff.
Really struggling on the floor, holding the decal, trying to straighten it and stick it without airbubbles yesterday
So I got a few airbubbles (got most of them invisible by releasing the air with a small needle).

A real hassle to do it alone, NOT recommended.
I will have this weekend my girlfriend holding the decal, that should make it easier

*edit*
I make it as smooth as possible underneath.
Filled and sanded the deep scratches and holes.
You can't see it's two layers, unless you get REALLY close and shine a bright flashlight on it.

#934 4 years ago
Quoted from Nightmare:

The one and MAJOR pointer that I can give you is to make sure the clock is at the 12 o'clock position before swapping at the boards. You want the gears set to that. If you don't, you will have major problems. Also, when you take the clock a part and remove the hands, don't lose the pin that holds everything together. Here's a doc that explains everything in detail from Ingo.
http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/tz-clock-instruction-english.html

Quoted from Lermods:

Removing the clock and replacing the board is really very simple, I can do it in 2 minutes now.
1. Remove the plastic around the clock (if you have a piano, undo the screw holding it on first)
2. Unhook the motor power connector that's under the playfield and feed up through the Pf.
3. Undo the 2 screws holding the clock bracket
4. Lift clock and pull off two connectors. Clock will now be free.
5. Remove plastic face
6. Remove ear clip that holds hands on
7. Pull off hands, noting orientation (watch the pin underneath minute hand so you don't lose it.)
8. Undo 4 screws holding bracket in back and pull the motor and gears back (it's all one piece.)
9. Pull out board and replace it making sure you put it in oriented the right way.
10. Clean and lube the gears while you are there.
11. Button it all back up.
I'm going from memory as it's been a few months since I've done it, but It should not intimidate anyone as its about a 3 on a scale of 1 to 10 with 1 being changing a bulb.
Others can chime in with tips or if I've missed something. I was in the same boat with mine not too long ago so hope this helps out.

LitzDoc, I don't know about you, but I am way more at easy now!!!!

#935 4 years ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

Agree with all the posts above but I would say 2 minutes is overly optimistic. If this is your first time, then leave yourself plenty of time and don't rush it. I usually will cause another problem if in a hurry. Make sure you have the right size screw driver. Those Phillips screw heads are easy to strip.

About 15-20 mins if it's your first time, but I've now done it like 15-20 times when I was diagnosing my issues, so I really can do it in about 2 minutes (the removal of clock from the game, not taking clock apart too, that takes a few more mins); three connectors, removal of one plastic and 2 screws is all it is.)

#936 4 years ago

Applied the decals on the left side and front.
This time with help, should have waited with the right side till I got help.
MUUUCH easier this way, we applied the decals much faster and with no bubbles at all this way.

Also replaced the coin door, new shooter with white ball, and the front black legs mounted.

I'm so happy with the personolized looks

IMG_2451.JPG

#938 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Removing the clock and replacing the board is really very simple, I can do it in 2 minutes now.
1. Remove the plastic around the clock (if you have a piano, undo the screw holding it on first)
2. Unhook the motor power connector that's under the playfield and feed up through the Pf.
3. Undo the 2 screws holding the clock bracket
4. Lift clock and pull off two connectors. Clock will now be free.
5. Remove plastic face
6. Remove ear clip that holds hands on
7. Pull off hands, noting orientation (watch the pin underneath minute hand so you don't lose it.)
8. Undo 4 screws holding bracket in back and pull the motor and gears back (it's all one piece.)
9. Pull out board and replace it making sure you put it in oriented the right way.
10. Clean and lube the gears while you are there.
11. Button it all back up.
I'm going from memory as it's been a few months since I've done it, but It should not intimidate anyone as its about a 3 on a scale of 1 to 10 with 1 being changing a bulb.
Others can chime in with tips or if I've missed something. I was in the same boat with mine not too long ago so hope this helps out.

Thanks Robert!!!

Here is a link to a PDF installation-guide (newest version november 2014):
http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/get_file.php?id=28051417&vnr=108585

#939 4 years ago

Finished, now I can finally play

I only have to fix a topper to make it complete

And fix my Ingo clock board problem (Ingo, please check your mail, send you couple of e-mails with no reply yet).

IMG_2452.JPG
#940 4 years ago
Quoted from Invader:

Finished, now I can finally play
I only have to fix a topper to make it complete
And fix my Ingo clock board problem (Ingo, please check your mail, send you couple of e-mails with no reply yet).

IMG_2452.JPG

Beautiful!

#941 4 years ago

It was a lot to fit under the mini-playfield, but I installed the star post interface board under there. It drives the 8 star post lights with low power triggered by the GI and each set of LEDs will flash with 20v when triggered by the mini playfield switch kit. Looks really cool when the ball is rolling around up there.

IMG_1897.JPG IMG_1637.JPG
#942 4 years ago
Quoted from swedishc:

It was a lot to fit under the mini-playfield, but I installed the star post interface board under there. It drives the 8 star post lights with low power triggered by the GI and each set of LEDs will flash with 20v when triggered by the mini playfield switch kit. Looks really cool when the ball is rolling around up there.

Is there video of this anywhere? If not, could you take one? I'm interested to see how this looks.

#943 4 years ago

I also got the lighted starposts on my mini playfield.
Looks really great.
But quite some hassle to get get the cables organised.
I didn't have the GLM interfaceboard, so soldered the wires to the mini playfield GI lamp wire.
And the GND wires of the LEDs to the mass of the mini playfield flasher.
Mine star posts now flashes with the mini playfield flashers

While I was at it, I also put two LEDs behind the magna field signs, looks great in my opinion.
(in the photo you see a hotspot of the LED, but in real life it isn't that bad and whole sign lits up)

IMG_2363.JPG IMG_2365.JPG
#944 4 years ago

Invader, I'm so close to being done with mine, yours looks great

Does anyone have their bulb attached to the Pinball Decals spiral when lit sign? I have the bulb kind of hanging out in there with friction, is there a good way to attach it?

#945 4 years ago

Thanks!

My bulb in the Spiral sign comes loose after a while due to vibration.
I fixed it by fixing another problem, see my post here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/19#post-2485142

The inner plastic part is pushing against the back of the lamp holder, so it won't come loose now

#946 4 years ago

Im new to owning a TZ and the shoot again light works, but it does not light when I get an extra ball. Is this normal?

#947 4 years ago

Does anyone know if the flipper buttons on Twilight Zone have springs in them or are they the type with no springs?

#948 4 years ago

Mine have springs

#949 4 years ago

I'm having such a hard time trying to find a spare ceramic power ball for my TZ.... The ones I found on the net are way too f*** expensive..... Can anyone please help me?

#950 4 years ago

Pinball Life has them for $27. I think that was the cheapest, but they are on VAC now. I'm just going to clean and polish my old one.

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