(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


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There are 15,100 posts in this topic. You are on page 184 of 302.
#9151 3 years ago
Quoted from marc72:Now that the Ingo clock boards have turned into unobtanium, does anyone have any experience with the other replacement boards out there? I was specifically looking at the Caspers Electronics board. Any thoughts?
-Marc

It's a very well-made board and does a great job illuminating the clock evenly. It does not (or at least my version does not) work properly if you have a GIOCD installed. Half the LEDs don't light due to some weirdness of how the clock circuit is designed. The only clock mod which does work properly is Ingo's.

#9152 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

It's a very well-made board and does a great job illuminating the clock evenly. It does not (or at least my version does not) work properly if you have a GIOCD installed. Half the LEDs don't light due to some weirdness of how the clock circuit is designed. The only clock mod which does work properly is Ingo's.

I have that board, to have the LED’s work with the GIOCD board, you just flip the LED’s that don’t work. The clock board flips the polarity of the LED’s.

#9153 3 years ago

Got this coming in a week or so. I’m fairly certain it’s a sample. Green lock insert, green art in front of left ramp. Looks to be a decal on the spiral insert. White door on backbox. Optos under the piano. Sticker on the right load gum ball plastic. Flip here art missing on mini playfield.
Board mounted to the left of the cpu. Two 7 opto boards under playfield. Anything else I should be looking for to confirm that it’s a sample? Build date 03/26/93

12FCD07D-9690-47F4-B9B8-9A415222B0D3.jpeg12FCD07D-9690-47F4-B9B8-9A415222B0D3.jpeg179E6D7A-B417-41C4-A7E7-34CDBA02E443.jpeg179E6D7A-B417-41C4-A7E7-34CDBA02E443.jpeg4008BB74-F57D-4249-B0AC-1FD69F1CF6BE.jpeg4008BB74-F57D-4249-B0AC-1FD69F1CF6BE.jpeg50946CE2-DC63-4C43-B7FB-E261C71AD3CD.jpeg50946CE2-DC63-4C43-B7FB-E261C71AD3CD.jpeg94E4EA73-6741-48FE-8411-02DA903381A9.jpeg94E4EA73-6741-48FE-8411-02DA903381A9.jpegA0F7010E-E548-4C44-9424-66BA6915A11F.jpegA0F7010E-E548-4C44-9424-66BA6915A11F.jpegBFBC6FCE-231C-4F05-BFDA-4D790875BEEF.jpegBFBC6FCE-231C-4F05-BFDA-4D790875BEEF.jpegE7E42C94-0911-492F-BBD3-594846AEB4CE.jpegE7E42C94-0911-492F-BBD3-594846AEB4CE.jpeg

#9154 3 years ago
Quoted from Boof-Ed:

Got this coming in a week or so. I fairly certain it’s a sample. Green lock insert, green art in front of left ramp. Looks to be a decal on the spiral insert. White door on backbox. Optos under the piano. Sticker on the right load gum all plastic. Flip here art missing on mini playfield.
Board mounted to the left of the cpu. Two 7 opto boards under playfield. Anything else I should be looking for to confirm that it’s a sample? Build date 03/26/93
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Mate that revolving door in your games room is picking up speed, what's this 4 new pins in how many weeks??? You might need to sell a few more

#9155 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Mate that revolving door in your games room is picking up speed, what's this 4 new pins in how many weeks??? You might need to sell a few more

My really nice production one is leaving for this one. Sad but happy.

#9156 3 years ago
Quoted from Boof-Ed:

Got this coming in a week or so. I fairly certain it’s a sample. Green lock insert, green art in front of left ramp. Looks to be a decal on the spiral insert. White door on backbox. Optos under the piano. Sticker on the right load gum all plastic. Flip here art missing on mini playfield.
Board mounted to the left of the cpu. Two 7 opto boards under playfield. Anything else I should be looking for to confirm that it’s a sample? Build date 03/26/93
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

No other confirmation needed. Those pics show its a sample. Earlier than mine. Door Panel boards has space for bottom flashers, and ramp arrow colors are green.

#9157 3 years ago

That’s pretty dope, congrats!

#9158 3 years ago

Hi
The backboard is missing on my TZ. (the wood board at the end of the playfield)
Does anyone can send me the size of this part? I will cut and paint a new one.
Thanks

#9159 3 years ago
Quoted from Ben38:

Hi
The backboard is missing on my TZ. (the wood board at the end of the playfield)
Does anyone can send me the size of this part? I will cut and paint a new one.
Thanks

Mine was missing also. It is 6 1/2 inches tall and the same width as the playfeild. Below is a link showing my replacement.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/118#post-4408756

#9160 3 years ago

I’ve finally joined the Twilight Zone club! It’s a project but pretty decent playfield, everything functions and its previous owner replaced some of the typical buggy boards, plus gave me an uninstalled tv mod and parts. Going to replace the artwork for sure. I’m excited!

#9161 3 years ago
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:

I’ve finally joined the Twilight Zone club! It’s a project but pretty decent playfield, everything functions and its previous owner replaced some of the typical buggy boards, plus gave me an uninstalled tv mod and parts. Going to replace the artwork for sure. I’m excited!

It’s a fun pin to restore

#9162 3 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Mine was missing also. It is 6 1/2 inches tall and the same width as the playfeild. Below is a link showing my replacement.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/118#post-4408756

Thanks a lot !

#9163 3 years ago
Quoted from Ben38:

Hi
The backboard is missing on my TZ. (the wood board at the end of the playfield)
Does anyone can send me the size of this part? I will cut and paint a new one.
Thanks

Alternatively you could buy Compy's new TZ interactive backboard https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-mod-twilight-zone-interactive-backboard-display

#9164 3 years ago

Anyone know anything about the H-8 ROM? Doesn't seem to be much info out there in it. Is it a precursor to the 9.4H and 9.4CH home ROMs?

#9165 3 years ago
Quoted from Ben38:

Thanks a lot !

3/4" sheet

Happy to help! Here's a CAD layout. Measurements are in mm.

Screen Shot 2020-11-09 at 9.12.38 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-11-09 at 9.12.38 AM (resized).png

#9166 3 years ago
Quoted from Compy:

3/4" sheet
Happy to help! Here's a CAD layout. Measurements are in mm.
[quoted image]

Perfect !

#9167 3 years ago
Quoted from Compy:

3/4" sheet
Happy to help! Here's a CAD layout. Measurements are in mm.
[quoted image]

Man, I wish someone had that for CFTBL....

#9168 3 years ago
Quoted from Compy:

3/4" sheet
Happy to help! Here's a CAD layout. Measurements are in mm.
[quoted image]

Just curious as to how much metric measurements are used in the US, as I've seen people referring to mm more recently. Is it being used more in engineering/manufacturing but people generally still use inches & feet?

#9169 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Just curious as to how much metric measurements are used in the US, as I've seen people referring to mm more recently. Is it being used more in engineering/manufacturing but people generally still use inches & feet?

Building construction - 100% still imperial here in the states. But manufacturing, because it is frequently global: metric.

#9170 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Just curious as to how much metric measurements are used in the US, as I've seen people referring to mm more recently. Is it being used more in engineering/manufacturing but people generally still use inches & feet?

Keep your metric! They tried converting us in the 70's and it didn't take!

#9171 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Just curious as to how much metric measurements are used in the US, as I've seen people referring to mm more recently. Is it being used more in engineering/manufacturing but people generally still use inches & feet?

I second what Rob said above. Though I was an idiot and referred to the sheet thickness in imperial and referenced my CAD with measurements in metric

Since I do a lot with global manufacturing (and PCBs), I try to do everything in metric wherever possible.

#9172 3 years ago

Like the saying:
US is moving over to the metric system inch by inch.

#9173 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Keep your metric! They tried converting us in the 70's and it didn't take!

Everybody is metric except 3 countries lol

#9174 3 years ago
Quoted from Compy:

Though I was an idiot and referred to the sheet thickness in imperial and referenced my CAD with measurements in metric

I did notice that but thought I'd let it slide ... the CAD was consistent though

Quoted from yzfguy:

Keep your metric! They tried converting us in the 70's and it didn't take!

I didn't realise that you guys had attempted to switch. Australia switched in 1970 but even now I'll often talk in imperial, although the younger generations are metric only (they look at you strange if you start talking inches & feet)

#9175 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I did notice that but thought I'd let it slide ... the CAD was consistent though

I didn't realise that you guys had attempted to switch. Australia switched in 1970 but even now I'll often talk in imperial, although the younger generations are metric only (they look at you strange if you start talking inches & feet)

We had several years in school where we had to convert everything to metric and back. Ugh... Then they gave up on us, and it was all for nothing basically!

#9176 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

We had several years in school where we had to convert everything to metric and back. Ugh... Then they gave up on us, and it was all for nothing basically!

Knowing is half the battle

#9177 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

We had several years in school where we had to convert everything to metric and back. Ugh... Then they gave up on us, and it was all for nothing basically!

Did some googling, seems to have been killed off and restarted over the years - interestingly they say as of April 2019, 'an estimated 30% of businesses in the United States have largely already switched to metric (Ref: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metrication_in_the_United_States).

Anyway now back to all things TZ

#9178 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Building construction - 100% still imperial here in the states. But manufacturing, because it is frequently global: metric.

And many cnc machines are built using metric components like leadscrew etc that running in Metric mode is supposedly more accurate.

#9179 3 years ago

Nearly there.....

20201030_121017 (resized).jpg20201030_121017 (resized).jpg20201109_163911 (resized).jpg20201109_163911 (resized).jpgUSER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_MSGR_PHOTO_FOR_UPLOAD_1604908299102_6731473298557332735 (resized).jpegUSER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_MSGR_PHOTO_FOR_UPLOAD_1604908299102_6731473298557332735 (resized).jpegreceived_687163628876488 (resized).jpegreceived_687163628876488 (resized).jpeg
#9180 3 years ago
Quoted from KJS:

Nearly there.....[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks sweet. What’s on the backboard mate? Is that a black mirror too?

#9181 3 years ago
Quoted from KJS:

Nearly there.....[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Sweet!

#9182 3 years ago

Thanks. I'm doing a custom backboard set up...not as flash as that screen mod being done...just something special for me.

#9183 3 years ago

I have a question regarding my TZ's bridge diverter. I was having problems where it was ejecting balls sideways 25% of the time, and then they would get stuck because of my robot mod...I've attached a pic.

I was able to improve the percentage to something more like 10% of the time by adding a washer next to the c-clip of the shaft that the diverter rotates. Also, I played with bending the shape a little of it to see if I could improve it.

I'm starting to suspect that it might be inconsistent power from the coil. But I'm definitely not sure.

Does anyone have any additional suggestions?

PS> My game is level in both directions per my digital level.
IMG_2453 (resized).jpegIMG_2453 (resized).jpeg

EDIT: I forgot to mention one more thing: There are 2 of the horizontal steel supports for the wire form right before the diverter, and the ball rolls over those almost like speed bumps...this occasionally causes some weird motion. I wanted to also validate that the ball should be hitting those or if that is something that needs to be adjusted as well.

#9184 3 years ago
Quoted from ceterumnet:

I have a question regarding my TZ's bridge diverter. I was having problems where it was ejecting balls sideways 25% of the time, and then they would get stuck because of my robot mod...I've attached a pic.
I was able to improve the percentage to something more like 10% of the time by adding a washer next to the c-clip of the shaft that the diverter rotates. Also, I played with bending the shape a little of it to see if I could improve it.
I'm starting to suspect that it might be inconsistent power from the coil. But I'm definitely not sure.
Does anyone have any additional suggestions?
PS> My game is level in both directions per my digital level.
[quoted image]
EDIT: I forgot to mention one more thing: There are 2 of the horizontal steel supports for the wire form right before the diverter, and the ball rolls over those almost like speed bumps...this occasionally causes some weird motion. I wanted to also validate that the ball should be hitting those or if that is something that needs to be adjusted as well.

Does the ball travel down the wireform, hit the diverter plate (see red arrow in the below pic) and bounce back up the wireform before the diverter flips (ie the ball is not cradled in the diverter when it flips)? This is a common issue - are you able to take a slow-motion video of it to see if this is what is actually happening? PinballPro makes a simple mod to eliminate the bounce https://pinballpro.net/shop/twilight-zone-diverter-magnet-tz-dm/

TZ diverter (resized).jpgTZ diverter (resized).jpg

In regards to the ball clipping the wire supports that are welded to the bottom of the wireform, yes that can occur. I have EL wiring on my wireforms that are held in place by plastic sleeves, this actually raises the ball slightly which minimises/eliminates the ball clipping those supports. Here is a picture showing the plastic sleeves on the wireform (game is currently stripped down)

TZ wireform to mini-PF (resized).jpgTZ wireform to mini-PF (resized).jpg

#9185 3 years ago

That is normal for a twilight zone you can put any adhesive backed neodymium magnet on the side of the diverter. Round ones are fine too.

Quoted from ceterumnet:

I was having problems where it was ejecting balls sideways 25% of the time

D69E404F-8928-4939-9622-F8C3C4C7F08D (resized).pngD69E404F-8928-4939-9622-F8C3C4C7F08D (resized).png
#9186 3 years ago
Quoted from Parker_tz:

That is normal for a twilight zone you can put any adhesive backed neodymium magnet on the side of the diverter. Round ones are fine too.
[quoted image]

I ordered the magnet a week or so ago. But it actually happens more with the powerball. I was hoping there is another way to improve this.

Quoted from Manny65:

Does the ball travel down the wireform, hit the diverter plate (see red arrow in the below pic) and bounce back up the wireform before the diverter flips (ie the ball is not cradled in the diverter when it flips)? This is a common issue - are you able to take a slow-motion video of it to see if this is what is actually happening? PinballPro makes a simple mod to eliminate the bounce https://pinballpro.net/shop/twilight-zone-diverter-magnet-tz-dm/
[quoted image]
In regards to the ball clipping the wire supports that are welded to the bottom of the wireform, yes that can occur. I have EL wiring on my wireforms that are held in place by plastic sleeves, this actually raises the ball slightly which minimises/eliminates the ball clipping those supports. Here is a picture showing the plastic sleeves on the wireform (game is currently stripped down)
[quoted image]

It occasionally bounces off the diverter, but more often it is slung to the side when it goes to dump the ball.

I'll take some slow motion video to see if I can narrow down what is happening.

Thanks for your suggestions

#9187 3 years ago
Quoted from Parker_tz:

That is normal for a twilight zone you can put any adhesive backed neodymium magnet on the side of the diverter. Round ones are fine too.
[quoted image]

19 bucks for a magnet??......

#9188 3 years ago
Quoted from ceterumnet:

I ordered the magnet a week or so ago. But it actually happens more with the powerball. I was hoping there is another way to improve this.

It occasionally bounces off the diverter, but more often it is slung to the side when it goes to dump the ball.
I'll take some slow motion video to see if I can narrow down what is happening.
Thanks for your suggestions

The magnet will hold the ball to the diverter while it is flipped off the wireform, so less chance of it being slung to the side ... unless of course you do have some mechanical issue, so this is where the slo-mo video will help show you what's happening. Yep you're right, it won't help the powerball

#9190 3 years ago
Quoted from ceterumnet:

I have a question regarding my TZ's bridge diverter. I was having problems where it was ejecting balls sideways 25% of the time, and then they would get stuck because of my robot mod...I've attached a pic.
I was able to improve the percentage to something more like 10% of the time by adding a washer next to the c-clip of the shaft that the diverter rotates. Also, I played with bending the shape a little of it to see if I could improve it.
I'm starting to suspect that it might be inconsistent power from the coil. But I'm definitely not sure.
Does anyone have any additional suggestions?
PS> My game is level in both directions per my digital level.
[quoted image]
EDIT: I forgot to mention one more thing: There are 2 of the horizontal steel supports for the wire form right before the diverter, and the ball rolls over those almost like speed bumps...this occasionally causes some weird motion. I wanted to also validate that the ball should be hitting those or if that is something that needs to be adjusted as well.

I added a custom made clear plastic guard. I have never had a problem again.

D23CE46C-181D-432E-BD6C-F10567E57FE9 (resized).jpegD23CE46C-181D-432E-BD6C-F10567E57FE9 (resized).jpeg
#9191 3 years ago
Quoted from ceterumnet:

I was having problems where it was ejecting balls sideways 25% of the time, and then they would get stuck because of my robot mod

As a person who dosen't like all these toys on the game, I'd say 'lose the mod'.

However - if the ball (powerball or not) is sitting square in the diverter when it flips, and the ball occasionally gets shot out sideways, then bent the lower flange (the one that is between the wireform and 'lifts' the ball) upwards at the end of it. This will help 'catch' the ball and add left-wards pressure when it flips, keeping the ball in the cage.

#9192 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

As a person who dosen't like all these toys on the game, I'd say 'lose the mod'.
However - if the ball (powerball or not) is sitting square in the diverter when it flips, and the ball occasionally gets shot out sideways, then bent the lower flange (the one that is between the wireform and 'lifts' the ball) upwards at the end of it. This will help 'catch' the ball and add left-wards pressure when it flips, keeping the ball in the cage.

This is a great suggestion. I also have the robot mod (it's staying on Coyote!!! ) but the itself mod isn't what causes the issue - it's the inertia of the ball and the fact that it slams into the diverter and occasionally gets knocked back. Seems to me that if it doesn't knock back exactly in a straight line, it pops off the wireform.

Then sometimes it does get caught in the robot's bracket, but more often on mine it's been knocking off to the *left* - halfway into the gumball area. It eventually pops down right above the upper left flipper, I haven't figured out where exactly it's going. And I do have the magnet on the diverter.

#9193 3 years ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I added a custom made clear plastic guard. I have never had a problem again.[quoted image]

I used a clear star post to fill that void next to robot. Looks like it belongs. I had the same problem of the ball hitting the wireform support bar and falling off. I just bought a replacement and was done with it. Magnet works well to keep ball from bouncing back out of the scoop.

#9194 3 years ago

I recently added the robot and having the same problem. Thanks for the ideas on how to fix it. I like the star post, hadn't thought of that. Was going to try the magnet.

#9195 3 years ago
Quoted from misfitdart:

19 bucks for a magnet??......

Lowe's or Home Depot has much cheaper versions.

#9196 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I used a clear star post to fill that void next to robot. Looks like it belongs. I had the same problem of the ball hitting the wireform support bar and falling off. I just bought a replacement and was done with it. Magnet works well to keep ball from bouncing back out of the scoop.

I’m going to take a look at that; good idea.

#9197 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

As a person who dosen't like all these toys on the game, I'd say 'lose the mod'.
However - if the ball (powerball or not) is sitting square in the diverter when it flips, and the ball occasionally gets shot out sideways, then bent the lower flange (the one that is between the wireform and 'lifts' the ball) upwards at the end of it. This will help 'catch' the ball and add left-wards pressure when it flips, keeping the ball in the cage.

Thanks for the suggestion - I think I tried this, but I will give it another go. I may have over adjusted it or not done enough.

#9198 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I used a clear star post to fill that void next to robot. Looks like it belongs. I had the same problem of the ball hitting the wireform support bar and falling off. I just bought a replacement and was done with it. Magnet works well to keep ball from bouncing back out of the scoop.

This is a great idea. I may try this.

#9199 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

As a person who dosen't like all these toys on the game, I'd say 'lose the mod'.
However - if the ball (powerball or not) is sitting square in the diverter when it flips, and the ball occasionally gets shot out sideways, then bent the lower flange (the one that is between the wireform and 'lifts' the ball) upwards at the end of it. This will help 'catch' the ball and add left-wards pressure when it flips, keeping the ball in the cage.

I was thinking about just pulling the robot off...I'm not a huge fan of it - especially when it creates a new ball trap.

#9200 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I used a clear star post to fill that void next to robot. Looks like it belongs. I had the same problem of the ball hitting the wireform support bar and falling off. I just bought a replacement and was done with it. Magnet works well to keep ball from bouncing back out of the scoop.

Do you recall what size / where you bought the post from?

I don't have any spare parts accumulated yet as I'm relatively new to the hobby.

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