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(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9,131 posts
  • 665 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Piso
  • Topic is favorited by 357 Pinsiders

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There are 9131 posts in this topic. You are on page 181 of 183.
#9001 67 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

What thickness did you guys use - the same as a plastic / plastic protector or thinner (more like the thickness of the original fishpaper)?

I used 1/8" thick.

#9002 67 days ago

The helix yellow protectors are 3mm thick ...i also have a 2mm thick clear one but was advised 2mm could break in the long term
Oh i forgot to mention i had to remove the support bracket from beneath the mini playfield to get it to level up correctly ..its pretty solid so not causing any negative effects yet

#9003 67 days ago
Quoted from Matrixnetuk:

The helix yellow protectors are 3mm thick ...i also have a 2mm thick clear one but was advised 2mm could break in the long term
Oh i forgot to mention i had to remove the support bracket from beneath the mini playfield to get it to level up correctly ..its pretty solid so not causing any negative effects yet

I was actually going to ask you what happened to the "inside" mini playfield support bracket in your pictures as I saw it was missing.

I haven't had any issues with that support, but the outer one does give me some trouble when putting the mini playfield back in... very tight fit. This seems to be from my replacement switch brackets colliding with the support which then hits the inside of the cabinet, which then can tear my art blades. I will probably end up making some changes to that bracket to keep it from hitting the inner cabinet or see if I can shift the mini playfield inward just a little. I don't have any issues with clearance of the lexan protector I made.

1 week later
#9005 60 days ago

I’ve got this clock assembly left over from when I had a TZ. It is NOS that the operator I got it from robbed the clock board years ago when they were not available but kept he everything thing else in the box. So, all you need to do is put a clock board in and you will have a new clock but will let that up to the new owner as there are many clock board options out there now! PM me if interested.

46E45C81-A362-4539-A230-1E6BDF1EA0C8 (resized).jpeg38CBC095-27FE-447F-9F79-40C0EF6CBA81 (resized).jpeg68D8BC13-3DB0-4E02-AF0F-B6D6A43696AF (resized).jpeg

#9006 55 days ago

Check it out, not mine . . .

ebay.com link

#9007 55 days ago
Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

Check it out, not mine . . .
ebay.com link

Asking a bit much I think

#9008 55 days ago

Copy that. I thought the same thang . . .

Quoted from Green-Machine:

Asking a bit much I think

#9009 55 days ago
Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

Copy that. I thought the same thang . . .

+1

Definitely want one but not for that much.

#9010 55 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Asking a bit much I think

a bit??? LOL

#9011 55 days ago
Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

Check it out, not mine . . .
ebay.com link

That's cool - except the $$$ and add another US$71 to ship it to Australia

#9012 54 days ago

Kinda neat / Kool, I have never seen this one before, but definitely not worth that much $ !

Quoted from Manny65:

That's cool - except the $$$ and add another US$71 to ship it to Australia

#9013 54 days ago

I just swapped a new opto board in under the playfield (previous had a leaky cap, fixed that, but not the problem) and it doesn’t have any power — the LED is off.

Fuses are all good, tested holders with fuses in and fuses removed. Test points seem good.

Where does that opto board get power from, connector-wise? Should I start tracing from there?

#9014 54 days ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

I just swapped a new opto board in under the playfield (previous had a leaky cap, fixed that, but not the problem) and it doesn’t have any power — the LED is off.
Fuses are all good, tested holders with fuses in and fuses removed. Test points seem good.
Where does that opto board get power from, connector-wise? Should I start tracing from there?

12v power comes from J118 pin 2 and 3...do you have 12v at your test point on the PDB?
edit...you did say you had it at the test points...missed that

#9015 54 days ago

Still haven't heard back from Ingo re clock board order, has anyone else?

#9016 54 days ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Still haven't heard back from Ingo re clock board order, has anyone else?

I had contact last week and was assured that once shipping is possible, they will send them. Also offered a refund.

#9017 54 days ago

I requested and was granted a return from German Pinball. I don't think there is much risk, but when it comes down to it, I'd rather hold the money then someone else. I ended up buying a new board from someone in Canada, so it worked out that way too.

#9018 54 days ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

I just swapped a new opto board in under the playfield (previous had a leaky cap, fixed that, but not the problem) and it doesn’t have any power — the LED is off.

Did you actually measure the power input to the board at J5-2, or are you relying on the light to tell you the board has no power? I only ask that as often times a leaky capacitor will corrode the through holes under the capacitor and break the connections.

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#9019 54 days ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

Well crap, I thought I had this one licked

uncivil_engineer

I had pretty much the same issue after a tear down and cleaning. Mechanically free by hand but only worked 50% of the time. Fought it for a while until I realized the rod was on the opposite side. Corrected that and was good to go...for a few games. After living with it for a while I tested resistance of the coil which matched a new one on hand to replace a bad knocker coil in my Taxi. Eventually decided to put the new coil in the TZ as a last ditch effort and have been good since. Put the old coil in the Taxi and it just made a thump when tested so looks like mine was a weak coil issue.

#9020 54 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Did you actually measure the power input to the board at J5-2, or are you relying on the light to tell you the board has no power? I only ask that as often times a leaky capacitor will corrode the through holes under the capacitor and break the connections.[quoted image]

You all nailed it. Connector at J118 was a little toasty and I reseated to temp fix. My repaired opto board AND the new one are working great I’ll have to repin that connector but it’s clearly the issue. Maybe the bad cap toasted it?

Thanks for the help!

#9021 53 days ago
Quoted from Barr993:

uncivil_engineer
I had pretty much the same issue after a tear down and cleaning. Mechanically free by hand but only worked 50% of the time. Fought it for a while until I realized the rod was on the opposite side. Corrected that and was good to go...for a few games. After living with it for a while I tested resistance of the coil which matched a new one on hand to replace a bad knocker coil in my Taxi. Eventually decided to put the new coil in the TZ as a last ditch effort and have been good since. Put the old coil in the Taxi and it just made a thump when tested so looks like mine was a weak coil issue.

Well the coil I have in there is supposed to be brand new. The next time it starts acting up I may measure the resistance and measure it against the specs. So far it has worked well for about 20 or so games.

#9022 50 days ago

This may have already been answered in this forum but with 9K entries, it will take me awhile to work through them. I noticed that if I tell my game to load 4 balls to the gumball, it will comply and load them but then it wont load a ball to the shooter lane at game start and it just runs continuous ball searches, and I clearly see two in the trough; the question I have is how does the game know how many balls are in the gumball machine?

#9023 50 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This may have already been answered in this forum but with 9K entries, it will take me awhile to work through them. I noticed that if I tell my game to load 4 balls to the gumball, it will comply and load them but then it wont load a ball to the shooter lane at game start and it just runs continuous ball searches, and I clearly see two in the trough; the question I have is how does the game know how many balls are in the gumball machine?

...
Did you put a total of 7 balls in the game?
If you increase the number in the gumball machine, you need to add a ball to the game.

If you DID add a ball to the game, then you have a bad trough switch.

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

the question I have is how does the game know how many balls are in the gumball machine

.. Because the game loaded them, and the game kept track of how many it loaded.

#9024 50 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This may have already been answered in this forum but with 9K entries, it will take me awhile to work through them. I noticed that if I tell my game to load 4 balls to the gumball, it will comply and load them but then it wont load a ball to the shooter lane at game start and it just runs continuous ball searches, and I clearly see two in the trough; the question I have is how does the game know how many balls are in the gumball machine?

Not sure about the amount , but if your game is looking for balls , and you see balls in the trough , do a switch test for the trough . A switch may be faulty .

#9025 49 days ago

Dust cover

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#9026 49 days ago
Quoted from Automata90:

Dust cover
[quoted image][quoted image]

Very cool! I’ll take one

#9027 49 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Did you put a total of 7 balls in the game?
If you increase the number in the gumball machine, you need to add a ball to the game.

Thanks for the help guys, adding a 7th ball took care of the issue.

#9028 49 days ago
Quoted from Automata90:

Dust cover
[quoted image][quoted image]

Very Nice! Is it custom?

#9029 49 days ago
Quoted from Automata90:

Dust cover
[quoted image][quoted image]

That is outstanding. Where did you get it/ make it?

#9030 49 days ago
Quoted from Automata90:

Dust cover
[quoted image][quoted image]

Very Cool! I just use beach towels, but don't get much cab protection...
IMG_7817 (resized).JPG

#9031 49 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

That is outstanding. Where did you get it/ make it?

Thank you, I did it myself, if any of you is interested I think I could make a couple more. I have a Dredd too that is really cool.

#9032 48 days ago
Quoted from Automata90:

Thank you, I did it myself, if any of you is interested I think I could make a couple more. I have a Dredd too that is really cool.

Absolutely! I'll PM you. Really really well done.

#9033 48 days ago

Ok people -

I am having this persistent issue with 101 blowing within 5 seconds of turning on the machine. I know that the manual is incorrect, and F101 is not "unused" , but is for the miniplayfeld magnets and one or two of the Spiral magnets. The PDB seems good, transistor is not blown as far as I can tell, and I can't figure out if something is shorting, and where.

I just pulled my miniplayfield about a month ago and reinstalled it. At the time my left magnet wasn't working, but the fuse wasn't blowing, and the right magnet was fine. Now both and the spiral magnets are gonzo. Any tips? Anybody had this happen? I can't find much in the archives.

#9034 48 days ago

General troubleshooting tip - To shotgun it, try unplugging the connectors for the magnets and whatever F101 powers and see if anything affects the fuse blowing.

#9035 48 days ago

This is everywhere it goes; you will want to start by isolating a short between power at J109-5 and ground as well as resistance between J109-5 and returns at J125-6, J125-8, and J124-1 to look for broken wires as you should read the resistance of the coils here. You should also check between ground and J125-6, J125-8, and J124-1 as a short here would power on the appropriate coil and would be caused by either a shorted/pinched wire or a shorted transistor. Hope this helps.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

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#9036 48 days ago
Quoted from Automata90:

Thank you, I did it myself, if any of you is interested I think I could make a couple more. I have a Dredd too that is really cool.

I'm interested!

#9037 48 days ago

Can someone confirm what size coil should be in the Shooter Lane Diverter?

My TZ has a SZ-34-3500 which according to the page 5-55 of the 1993 Bally/Midway Grey parts catalog and page 2-29 of the TZ manual confirms this is the correct part, Marco on the other hand shows this is a Funhouse only part.

The Solenoid table on page 2-52 of the TZ manual calls for a SZ-33-3000 coil here, this is confirmed by item 1591 of the TZ build parts list, Marco shows the SZ-33-3000 coil is for both TZ and DM and Planetary Pinball has the SZ-33-3000 coil wrapper as part of the TZ coil wrapper kit.

This is always the problem with having too much info...

pasted_image (resized).png
#9038 48 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This is everywhere it goes; you will want to start by isolating a short between power at J109-5 and ground as well as resistance between J109-5 and returns at J125-6, J125-8, and J124-1 to look for broken wires as you should read the resistance of the coils here. You should also check between ground and J125-6, J125-8, and J124-1 as a short here would power on the appropriate coil and would be caused by either a shorted/pinched wire or a shorted transistor. Hope this helps.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Thanks! It looks like the right mini PF magnet is not part of the circuit. So that means I need to test that again, as I thought it was totally out. Hm.

#9039 47 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Can someone confirm what size coil should be in the Shooter Lane Diverter?
My TZ has a SZ-34-3500 which according to the page 5-55 of the 1993 Bally/Midway Grey parts catalog and page 2-29 of the TZ manual confirms this is the correct part, Marco on the other hand shows this is a Funhouse only part.
The Solenoid table on page 2-52 of the TZ manual calls for a SZ-33-3000 coil here, this is confirmed by item 1591 of the TZ build parts list, Marco shows the SZ-33-3000 coil is for both TZ and DM and Planetary Pinball has the SZ-33-3000 coil wrapper as part of the TZ coil wrapper kit.
This is always the problem with having too much info... [quoted image]

As per the Manual addendum "16-50020-AMD-1", the coil should be SZ-33-3000. (This addendum has been uploaded to the IPDB, too, for anyone to grab a copy and keep.)

#9040 47 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

the coil should be SZ-33-3000

Thanks Coyote ... I appreciate the clarification and will plan on replacing it; this coil is stronger and should help my gate out that seems lethargic when it moves.

1 week later
#9041 35 days ago

I just listed some clock parts if anyone is interested.

#9042 35 days ago
Quoted from atariaction:

I just listed some clock parts if anyone is interested.

Not seeing them

#9043 34 days ago

Sorry here is the link....

ebay.com link

#9044 34 days ago

Should have started here. I’m looking at buying a HUO 2nd owner Twilight Zone, will have to buy it remote and ship it. What do I have photographed or do I need to see a video of before buying it? The gum-ball machine and what else? I know I need to look at the batteries in the back box to make sure they haven’t leaked. The play field and cabinet look nice. This is a dream machine for me I don’t want to screw this up. Also is there anything part wise that you can no longer get?

#9045 33 days ago
Quoted from tyj:

What do I have photographed or do I need to see a video of before buying it?

No credit dot. (period after "free play" or "credit 0" on display indicates there is some error)
Clock operates normally.
all 4 flippers are strong, and can make the ramps, etc.
No cabinet fade - the clock on each side of the cab should be orange, etc.
J120 connector on power driver board not burned. (GI connector)
No missing parts. (watch youtube to get familiar)
Auto launch for multiball works.
All 4 magnets work.

The above are not deal breakers, but affect value.

#9046 33 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

No credit dot. (period after "free play" or "credit 0" on display indicates there is some error)
Clock operates normally.
all 4 flippers are strong, and can make the ramps, etc.
No cabinet fade - the clock on each side of the cab should be orange, etc.
J120 connector on power driver board not burned. (GI connector)
No missing parts. (watch youtube to get familiar)
Auto launch for multiball works.
All 4 magnets work.
The above are not deal breakers, but affect value.

Add powerball is being recognized via the shooter eject and the subway ramp sensors.
Magnets work on mini playfield

#9047 33 days ago
Quoted from tyj:

Should have started here. I’m looking at buying a HUO 2nd owner Twilight Zone, will have to buy it remote and ship it. What do I have photographed or do I need to see a video of before buying it? The gum-ball machine and what else? I know I need to look at the batteries in the back box to make sure they haven’t leaked. The play field and cabinet look nice. This is a dream machine for me I don’t want to screw this up. Also is there anything part wise that you can no longer get?

Quoted from tyj:

Should have started here. I’m looking at buying a HUO 2nd owner Twilight Zone, will have to buy it remote and ship it. What do I have photographed or do I need to see a video of before buying it? The gum-ball machine and what else? I know I need to look at the batteries in the back box to make sure they haven’t leaked. The play field and cabinet look nice. This is a dream machine for me I don’t want to screw this up. Also is there anything part wise that you can no longer get?

This is a very complex game and I wouldn’t advise buying it un-seen unless it’s thru a friend . The reason why I’m saying this is because TZ usually brings big money because of its ranking ... so that would result in a big loss for you if it was a lemon .
Clock , Gumball , magnets , and PB sensors are to be considered .
Good luck with your purchase , hope it works out for you as this is a great game .

#9048 33 days ago
Quoted from tyj:

Should have started here. I’m looking at buying a HUO 2nd owner Twilight Zone, will have to buy it remote and ship it. What do I have photographed or do I need to see a video of before buying it? The gum-ball machine and what else? I know I need to look at the batteries in the back box to make sure they haven’t leaked. The play field and cabinet look nice. This is a dream machine for me I don’t want to screw this up. Also is there anything part wise that you can no longer get?

Also look for missing parts that are hard to find or would need to be custom made. Like ball guides missing or subways missing or any credit dots that are not simple such as clock or gum-ball or switch 26 credit dots. Also make sure the decals are not faded unless cosmetics do not bother you. Playfields made be Lenc sync or LS may have planking make sure the playfield is not planking. Playfields made be Tomas a grant or TAG have a issue where the red fades. Sun process or SP holds up the best you can see the maker under the apron. Ask for a photo under the playfield check for hacks on mech or wiring harness or rust on metal parts under the playfield. Look if it has leds is it has cracked rubbers. If so you should put in leds and new rubbers when you buy and also put in new balls. look at the boards make sure they are free from acid damage and hacks. Most parts are obtainable but look out for missing parts some can be expensive. Ball guides, 2 out of the 3 subways, apron, and wireforms are unobtainable. Clock and gum-ball assemblys are expensive hard to find or unobtainable. Make sure the clock housing is not shattered it is out of stock everywhere.

The issue with my game is my clock housing is shattered and I can not find a new or nos clear one anywhere and I am doing a full restoration. If anyone has a spare one pm me.

#9049 33 days ago
Quoted from Parker_tz:

my clock housing is shattered and I can not find a new or nos clear one anywhere

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/bally-parts/twilight-zone/03-8833.html

#9050 33 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This is everywhere it goes; you will want to start by isolating a short between power at J109-5 and ground as well as resistance between J109-5 and returns at J125-6, J125-8, and J124-1 to look for broken wires as you should read the resistance of the coils here. You should also check between ground and J125-6, J125-8, and J124-1 as a short here would power on the appropriate coil and would be caused by either a shorted/pinched wire or a shorted transistor. Hope this helps.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Finally got around to looking at this closer (hey, we're in the middle of a remodel! TZ is the only game I didn't pack up, but just haven't had time). Pin_Guy your post was incredibly helpful in just having all the info in one spot.

Anyway, I am fairly certain that it's the Left Spiral magnet. I unplugged everything on that fuse (all the magnets basically), turned the game on, and slowly connected each one. The last connection was that Left Spiral magnet. I left it unplugged, and the fuse is holding. I need to do a test of the left miniplayfield magnet, as that *should* be working, but wasn't earlier because it's on the same fuse.

Ok, I'm still learning here:I think that means that Q28 may need to be replaced? Right? All other wires, connections are plugged in but I removed the power to the Left spiral magnet and everything else seems fine. I'll be testing that shortly.

OR could I still have a pinched wire/short that is causing just that one coil to lock on? I don't understand the schematic well enough to know how that gets triggered on.

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