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I must have spaced out when I ordered it. Funnier thing is that I didn't even notice it. Anyone need a brand new manga flip sign?

The sad part is that I just bought one last week and installed it. That's why I noticed!

Sold my TZ to buy an upgraded TZ
New clear coated PF, Invisy glass, Metal led apron, mods galore, all chrome side rails door etc, pin sound sub woofer upgraded speakers, the works. I love him.

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What the hell is up with the apron?

Check: http://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/TZ_Page.html#

Ah! Interesting!

Man, I simply do not get the current mod-crazy pinball culture. Guess I'm just a purist...or just old.

Sometimes less is more! I defnitely feel that when it comes to the TZ.

a little of both

I enjoy blinging some things but then also enjoy leaving others completely stock.

Those guys have some pretty outrageous prices.

I like mods, pinball is all about bells and whistles. TZ is one of those games that seems made for mods, some are better than others. Personal taste.

I think that's the case with all the mod sellers....

Anyway, Pinball Decals' quality are very good, and Joey is an extremely nice pinball fellow!

I don't like to pimp out the game too much because I like the original look. I do believe however that the gumballs, magnet diverter, and piano is a must. Other than that, it can be a little overbearing but to each it's own.

Oh TZ is made for mods.. The best mods actually

Edit: Life is short. Using screws. Want to play the game already. Just found out I'm out of 1-1/4" white rubbers. Life is pain.

Has anyone ever riveted the TZ signs back onto the Great Lakes Modular switch kit? I bought a Pinrestore press for the job only to learn that I had wasted $200 because the PCB is vertically in the way of the hole so there's very little clearance for a tool to press the back of the rivet. The website shows screws in the example picture so I guess he didn't do it properly either.

Will one of those squeeze type tools work? It looks like no, because I would need the faces reversed to fit.

These stupid rivets have been holding me up from finishing my mini playfield for weeks now

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I used pop rivets on mine and they worked great. Just be sure to use aluminum rivets so you don't break the plastics.

Thats what I did as well, works like a charm

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I used button head fasteners that I saw someone suggest somewhere. They look about the same as the pop rivets, but are removable. I have a few extra if you would like me to send you some (although you will have to wait a week since I am headed out the door to catch a plane now).

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Both of my flippers on the right side of my TZ occasionally cut out. I looked but my game has no flipper optos and the coils look new. I'm starting to think its the fliptronic 2 board. Has anyone had a similar problem with their machine?

What rom you running? There is also a option for low line voltage which can cause them to cut out if its on .

I have the latest rom installed, I will look for the low line voltage, but wouldn't it affect both sides?Anyways I will check that, thanks.

Did you mean to say "new flipper optos"? Or does yours have actual leaf switches?

I heard of different flippers being effected so not sure

actual leaf switches

The next time they fail, go into switch edge test and see if both of the leaf switches are even registering. Also, check the wires where they plug back into the main harness(if memory serves me correctly) to check to see if one of those wires is loose at all.

Gotta start at the easy stuff, which I'm good at!

sounds like good advice.

I had an issue with mine where the upper right flipper would flutter for seemingly no reason. Got a new fliptronics board and it solved the problem. I wonder if I can just stick that board with the flutter into a 2 flipper game without issues?

Theoretically It seems plausible but Rottendog Fliptronic boards are only $75 so probably not worth the effort.

I had weak flipper issues and switched the boards at the lower flippers and it corrected the problem. Not sure why, but it did.

The Fliptronic II board or the Flipper opto boards?

Sorry, opto boards.

No posts in 2 weeks in the best club, someone buy a CQ machine and post pics to drool over or something. I'm cleaning really dirty inserts, feels so good.

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I joined the club again yesterday for the 4th time... My TZ history goes like this:

1st game sold to PAPA - Destroyed in the flood
2nd game traded to a friend for 2 Rush the Rock driving games
3rd game traded for a Guns & Roses

Must be the Pinball God(s) telling me that I'm destined to own one! I traded my IMVE for this beauty! The cabinet, playfield, boards, etc.. are mint! Needs a good cleaning and rebuilt flippers, but that's about it!

Rob Bell
Robsgameroom.com

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Here's a pic, and a test for folks -
Can you find the one insert that's not correct, or has something wrong to it?
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..It shouldn't be TOO hard.. And it's not the Lock - that's green.

So..... lots of used clock boards for sale on ebay.... wonder why's that!

Are the connectors supposed to stick way out of the Ingo board? I'm not sure if I have room to put in the PinballMod piano mod. Are there install instructions for that piano? I'm supposed to unscrew the bulb sockets, right?

New vs old:

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I have a different Piano mod from another pinside member who makes these and I had to unscrew the lights in order to get the Piano mod to fit. That's how it was designed. I'm sure it's probably the same with the mod you have as well.

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Hard to see everything clearly, but the second word in the Dead End insert does not look like the word "End" to me.

Yea the pic is hard to really tell anything but the shoot again maybe?

After owning the machine for 17 years.. i finally installed the gumball flashers in the doorpanel

I upgraded the powerfield with cold white LEDs under the star posts.
Added warm white LEDs behind the two signs.
GLM switches.
Clear lexan cover under the playfield
Blue LED under playfield that shines on the Hitchhiker guy.
Ehhh... and a some more things I forgot right now.

Replaced translite glass with bestofpinball anti-glare sheet, behind a next gen translite and NoFlix LEDs.
Also a RGB LED strip behind Rod Sterling, it looks freakin awesome but could not get the awesomeness on the picture though.

One bummer of the the awesome translite is the extreme glare on the playfield glass
(got anti glare filter on the DMD btw)

Hmmm... how can I fix this Translite glare on my playfield glass?
Don't want to dim the light of the backbox...

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Not sure which piano mod you have, but I have ingos board and a piano mod with no fit issues so it should work for you.

Sorry for the pic quality - it was taken while the field was being cleared. I posted a better picture below, and you should see it *right* away. The 'End' looks like that because when this field was printed, the black was too thick - it's a lot thicker than other playfields I've seen. Some finer/smaller letters are kind of run-together.

Look on the *ahem* right side of the playfield.
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I'm NOT a big LED guy, and like colored GI's even less.

However, I DO like how the hitchiker is lit up, and could seriously consider that. What LED did you use there?

Spiral is missing!

I've used this LED:
http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/t10-noflix-plus-blue-superflux-p-399.html?language=english
LED is soldered on two extended wires, so you can bend it the way you like

Yup. Hah, said it was easy. Back when the game was delivered to our Arcade, the insert still had 'Gumball' on it. The tech that WMS sent down to get readings and make changes scraped the 'Gumball' off, and then realized he forgot the 'Spiral' decal to install. He asked me if he could mail it to us, and said that we could put it on.

We never got it, so I left the insert blank. When the game finally made it to my home, I figured it was a neat enough piece of history that when HEP worked on the playfield (that picture there is from him), I asked him to leave it blank, but clearcoat over it to protect it. (Before, since it was scraped off, it was rough..)

defaultgen-
did you figure out a solution to making the piano mod fit? I also have the "Laretrotienda" piano and the Ingo clock board... Thinking of maybe taking a dremel tool to carve some of the back out..

I also got the Ingo board and the Laretrotienda piano

It doesn't fit perfectly without modification.
There's a gap between the clock (in front of the right bottom screw) and the top of the piano.
It's stays firm enough under the clock though, so I left it this way.

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