Posted the corrected versions below.

Is the heat sink still necessary

No it's not needed but keeps the original look of the board

Also, it's "POWERBALL".

Otherwise, nice work!

FYI, You spelled imagination & amusement wrong

Per the mentions above there are a few spelling errors but I really like the design. I like the integration into the apron design. If you don't mind reposting them with the updates I would be interested in them.

Thanks!

For sure, thanks for checking my horrid spelling. I don't have it on the PC I'm working from today, but should be able to upload them again today.

Updated, I think. Any other corrections or feedback are welcome.

TZ1 (resized).JPGTZ2 (resized).JPG

I have a decent condition smoked ramp if anyone's interested - just started a tear down and that was one thing that needed to be updated.

Picture of the cards installed. This is just standard stock paper cut to 6" x 3.25". I'm quite happy with these.

20200601_165346 (resized).jpg

Those look great, nice integrates into the apron design. Thanks for sharing with the club.

I agree, I like the way they follow the apron theme. Well done.

That seems in line with what Rod would think. See: “The Monsters are Due on Main Street.”

And those people didn’t have the “benefit” of social media. They got themselves all riled up all by their lonesome.

Got a broken clock error on my Ingo clock. None of the optos are reading for hour or minutes hands. Checked all connections and connectors look good. Removed clock and wire harness for clock connections and I have good continuity at all points in the harness. It’s not looking good. Power led and motor is working fine!

Give Ingo a shout, I bet he gets you taken care of right.

I haven't gotten a response to my last three attempts to Ingo, has anyone heard from him?

I’m still waiting on a response

Check your 8-Driver PCB. That board is what *strobes* the 9th Switch Column. If it's dead, all optos won't work.
If that is working as expected, check voltage to the clock board - NOT the GI line. (Checking connections is fine, but unless you check the signals over the wires..)

Yep 12v there too as well as led indicator all are lit up as they should be. The grey wire to the clock from that 8 driver board is 12v at the connector and the same at the clock. The lights on the Ingo clock board opto indicator however are dim as hell but the power led is good.

Check for pulses - not voltage. That's a data line, and should be pulsed.
If you get pulsing at the plug, then the issue is in the other lines - the switch rows. With the clock plugged in, check the plug lead's (the plug that is soldered to the clock board) continuity to the MPU board's plug.

How do I check pulsing? And which connectors? Soldered to the clock board? Did I miss something I thought they are all on connectors not soldered.

Logic probe. Very, very useful tool to have.

The connectors plug into the plugs on the board, which are soldered onto the clock PCB.

There's a reason for this - those connectors are IDC, and vibration and handing can cause the wires to lose connection to the metal terminal - that plugs into the plug on the board.

Unless the plugs were converted to crimp terminal (Molex), tests should always be done on the board - since testing at the plug could still read valid even though it's not.

I just crimped new Molex pins and replaced the connectors to the clock board. And I’m still dead in the water, no changes. I dont have a probe at the moment so that will be a while ugh.

Hello, just received the mirrored backglass for the TZ, it is a keeper and worth buying, the mirroring effects are discreet but do enhance the picture and I find it more luminous than the orginial picture. ( comparing to the STTNG and IJTPA ones that I own as well, it is better than the STTNG, but not as great than the IJTPA which is a must have )

This is what I call devotion for a pinball

Those new cards do look pretty good. Thanks for doing these.

20200603_180657 (resized).jpg

Is q12 on the 8-driver pcb a cause for this issue? I’m looking at the diagram and I don’t see much connected to colum 9 clock optos other than q12 the rest look to be associated with flashers.

Trying to source the rivets and flaps for the ramps in TZ. Doing a PF swap and would like to get these replaced. Any info would be appreciated.

On another note, I am keeping a spreadsheet with misc info during the swap. Procurement, 3rd mag info, etc.

Here is a link to the view version of it. It is going to be changing over time since this project is fluid.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cpPt7E9-jpGFBFcxws7F77GraEo-IWlafqXq96BlAQw/edit?usp=sharing

Yes - Q12 is the driver, and it only handles the switch column. (You wouldn't want it to handle anything else! )

Hello,

Can anyone with Ingo's clock board *and* a GI OCD board in their Twilight Zone help please?

I've finally got my TZ clock connected again after 2yrs (!) of restoring this machine and I'm running a GI dim 0-8 test but the stock white clock LEDs are not dimming as i was expecting them to.

I know there's a brightness dial on the clockboard, but haven't investigated this yet... it's the final v1.9 Clock board.

GI OCD board is set to dim the clock GI string, and all other playfield/backbox GI dims nicely with the Comet 2SMDs.

Thanks.

Me either after multple attempts, bought and paid in full for boards in February - getting quite concerned!

Yeah. I paid in full over two months ago. I understand shipping was a problem but it's been about a month and a half now with no response to multiple messages from me. I don't mind waiting if circumstances require it, but communication would make me feel more comfortable.

Ingo's board does not dim *as much* as other LEDs, but you should still see some kind of dimming. You say 'stock white', though, and that confuses me since you usually got to select the color you wanted with your board. (In toehr words, I'm not sure what a "non-stock" LED would be in Ingo's board.) Do the other LEDs on the SAME GI string dim alright? (The ones in the backbox behind the clock and title.)

Thanks for the reply.

The LEDs are the cool white option which come with the board. I opted NOT to use Rainbow as I know OCD boards (at least the LED OCD boards) generally don’t work with them.

I need to retest as I was focusing too much on the clock face, not the backbox, but I’m 90% sure they did dim.
EDIT, the backbox LEDs on the same string (Clock + insert) do dim very nicely, it's just the clock board's LED that dim only very slightly! It uses those superflux LEDs which i hate!

Heads up... I heard from Ingo today. The boards are ready to go, but he says that shipping is still restricted to the US and AUS. I'm willing to wait, and glad to hear from him that all is ok.

Try turning the brightness down on the clock board, and see how that does.

Why is shipping restricted? Is this all covid19 still?

Yes.

Yes, a lot of parcels (especially those sent through postal services) go on commercial passenger flights which are currently almost non-existent between some countries due to Covid-19

FYI replaced q12 on my 8-driver board and I’m back in business

Good job!

Ugh, the impacts of Covid don't stop. Never thought about how mail would be impacted by the airlines being stopped.

Just for reference, I ordered a Trough Proximity board from Australia ( from a different vendor).

Ordered April 27
Shipped April 28 Australian Post Standard International
Estimated delivery was listed as
May 11 - May 21
I just received the package today, June 10

So 6 weeks for delivery.

Almost done with my tear down... finally cleaned the whole thing and got the ramp rewired and replaced, took off the miniplayfield to restore and clean it up too. Got it all back together and realized the left magnet isn’t working ... arrgh!

Cliffys installed. Removed the scoop and saw how bad the welds are:

Luckily I have a Mantis ready to drop in!

6EF5EA68-1468-4301-9FB9-91724C475EE1 (resized).jpeg

I recently acquired a TWZ. It had the lighted apron, but the connectors from the board are gone. I’m not seeing anything online, does anyone know where I can get the correct connection?

It appears to be the one pictured.

420A2250-9C7A-41BE-8D22-E43DD90ED70D (resized).png

Wow. Tell you what, if you can't figure it out, I'll trade you for a slightly used, original one

Sounds good, I’ll also thrown in $100 since I don’t think it would be fair to you