(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

6 years ago



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#8701 38 days ago

Posted the corrected versions below.

#8702 38 days ago
Quoted from RoyF:

Posting to "close the loop". I pulled the CPU board. All clean on there. Removed the battery holder and installed a coin cell holder, replaced the ROM with 9.4CH. Noticed I had the blue Phillips cap at C31, so I replaced that while I had the board out. Didn't have an axial cap on hand, so instead I used a 100uf 100v radial cap I had from GPE. Reinstalled the CPU. No resulting change in the 5v readings at pin 32 on the game ROM vs. TP2 on the power driver board.
Pulled the driver board and examined it. No cracked solder joints at the headers or at F113. Solder on the LM323K looked good. BR2 and C5 already tested good a few days ago per PinWiki WPC section 6.16.12. Header pins and connectors look good, as expected given the low "on hours" for this game. So, I decided to remove the LM323K and install a PSU5. A simple job, although the PSU5 units I just received in the mail recently differ slightly in appearance from those pictures I have seen posted on Pinside. Notice there are tiny labels screened on the PSU5 for the 2 pins, one says "in" and one says "out". Orient the PSU5 so the "in" pin connects to the back of the driver board trace that goes to BR2 / C5. And as others have suggested, install the PSU5 to the board with the mounting screws first (discard the old nuts and instead use replacement #6 nuts with split washers to avoid a short circuit, and in my case solder had been worked into the head of the screws making it impossible to use a screwdriver on them, so those screws were replaced with new), then go ahead and solder the PSU5 to the board. I now have 5.07v on pin 32 of the game ROM, so all is good! Trimmer pot on the PSU5 can be used to carefully adjust the 5v to where you want it, best done with J114 disconnected for safety reasons.[quoted image][quoted image]

Is the heat sink still necessary

#8703 38 days ago
Quoted from embryon:

Is the heat sink still necessary

No it's not needed but keeps the original look of the board

#8704 38 days ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Sharing some free play cards I made up today. I wanted something fairly simple that would blend into the apron artwork. You will have to toss them into a word document and size them accordingly.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good, but..

"HITCH HIKER" is one word. Also it should be "AMUSEMENT" and "IMAGINATION" in the second card.

#8705 38 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Looks good, but..
"HITCH HIKER" is one word. Also it should be "AMUSEMENT" and "IMAGINATION" in the second card.

Also, it's "POWERBALL".

Otherwise, nice work!

#8706 38 days ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Sharing some free play cards I made up today. I wanted something fairly simple that would blend into the apron artwork. You will have to toss them into a word document and size them accordingly.
[quoted image][quoted image]

FYI, You spelled imagination & amusement wrong

#8707 38 days ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Sharing some free play cards I made up today. I wanted something fairly simple that would blend into the apron artwork. You will have to toss them into a word document and size them accordingly.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Per the mentions above there are a few spelling errors but I really like the design. I like the integration into the apron design. If you don't mind reposting them with the updates I would be interested in them.

Thanks!

#8708 38 days ago

For sure, thanks for checking my horrid spelling. I don't have it on the PC I'm working from today, but should be able to upload them again today.

#8709 38 days ago

Updated, I think. Any other corrections or feedback are welcome.

TZ1 (resized).JPGTZ2 (resized).JPG

#8710 38 days ago

I have a decent condition smoked ramp if anyone's interested - just started a tear down and that was one thing that needed to be updated.

#8711 37 days ago

Picture of the cards installed. This is just standard stock paper cut to 6" x 3.25". I'm quite happy with these.

20200601_165346 (resized).jpg

#8712 37 days ago

Those look great, nice integrates into the apron design. Thanks for sharing with the club.

#8713 37 days ago

I agree, I like the way they follow the apron theme. Well done.

#8714 36 days ago
CB2DB7D2-2342-48B9-B0E3-B54ACB72EAD7 (resized).jpeg
#8715 36 days ago
Quoted from HC2016:

[quoted image]

That seems in line with what Rod would think. See: “The Monsters are Due on Main Street.”

And those people didn’t have the “benefit” of social media. They got themselves all riled up all by their lonesome.

12
#8716 36 days ago

The Dutch Pinball Museum has recreated the Twilight Zone backglass in a diorama where you can have your picture taken!

tz diarama (resized).jpg

#8717 36 days ago

Got a broken clock error on my Ingo clock. None of the optos are reading for hour or minutes hands. Checked all connections and connectors look good. Removed clock and wire harness for clock connections and I have good continuity at all points in the harness. It’s not looking good. Power led and motor is working fine!

#8718 36 days ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

Got a broken clock error on my Ingo clock

Give Ingo a shout, I bet he gets you taken care of right.

#8719 35 days ago
Quoted from RoyF:

Give Ingo a shout, I bet he gets you taken care of right.

I haven't gotten a response to my last three attempts to Ingo, has anyone heard from him?

#8720 35 days ago
Quoted from RoyF:

Give Ingo a shout, I bet he gets you taken care of right.

I’m still waiting on a response

#8721 35 days ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

Got a broken clock error on my Ingo clock. None of the optos are reading for hour or minutes hands. Checked all connections and connectors look good. Removed clock and wire harness for clock connections and I have good continuity at all points in the harness. It’s not looking good. Power led and motor is working fine!

Check your 8-Driver PCB. That board is what *strobes* the 9th Switch Column. If it's dead, all optos won't work.
If that is working as expected, check voltage to the clock board - NOT the GI line. (Checking connections is fine, but unless you check the signals over the wires..)

#8722 35 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Check your 8-Driver PCB. That board is what *strobes* the 9th Switch Column. If it's dead, all optos won't work.
If that is working as expected, check voltage to the clock board - NOT the GI line. (Checking connections is fine, but unless you check the signals over the wires..)

Yep 12v there too as well as led indicator all are lit up as they should be. The grey wire to the clock from that 8 driver board is 12v at the connector and the same at the clock. The lights on the Ingo clock board opto indicator however are dim as hell but the power led is good.

#8723 35 days ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

he grey wire to the clock from that 8 driver board is 12v at the connector and the same at the clock.

Check for pulses - not voltage. That's a data line, and should be pulsed.
If you get pulsing at the plug, then the issue is in the other lines - the switch rows. With the clock plugged in, check the plug lead's (the plug that is soldered to the clock board) continuity to the MPU board's plug.

#8724 35 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Check for pulses - not voltage. That's a data line, and should be pulsed.
If you get pulsing at the plug, then the issue is in the other lines - the switch rows. With the clock plugged in, check the plug lead's (the plug that is soldered to the clock board) continuity to the MPU board's plug.

How do I check pulsing? And which connectors? Soldered to the clock board? Did I miss something I thought they are all on connectors not soldered.

#8725 35 days ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

How do I check pulsing?

Logic probe. Very, very useful tool to have.

Quoted from Antennaejim:

And which connectors? Soldered to the clock board? Did I miss something I thought they are all on connectors not soldered.

The connectors plug into the plugs on the board, which are soldered onto the clock PCB.

There's a reason for this - those connectors are IDC, and vibration and handing can cause the wires to lose connection to the metal terminal - that plugs into the plug on the board.

Unless the plugs were converted to crimp terminal (Molex), tests should always be done on the board - since testing at the plug could still read valid even though it's not.

#8726 35 days ago

I just crimped new Molex pins and replaced the connectors to the clock board. And I’m still dead in the water, no changes. I dont have a probe at the moment so that will be a while ugh.

#8727 35 days ago

Hello, just received the mirrored backglass for the TZ, it is a keeper and worth buying, the mirroring effects are discreet but do enhance the picture and I find it more luminous than the orginial picture. ( comparing to the STTNG and IJTPA ones that I own as well, it is better than the STTNG, but not as great than the IJTPA which is a must have )

#8728 35 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

The Dutch Pinball Museum has recreated the Twilight Zone backglass in a diorama where you can have your picture taken!
[quoted image]

This is what I call devotion for a pinball

#8729 35 days ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Picture of the cards installed. This is just standard stock paper cut to 6" x 3.25". I'm quite happy with these.
[quoted image]

Those new cards do look pretty good. Thanks for doing these.

20200603_180657 (resized).jpg
#8730 35 days ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

Yep 12v there too as well as led indicator all are lit up as they should be. The grey wire to the clock from that 8 driver board is 12v at the connector and the same at the clock. The lights on the Ingo clock board opto indicator however are dim as hell but the power led is good.

Is q12 on the 8-driver pcb a cause for this issue? I’m looking at the diagram and I don’t see much connected to colum 9 clock optos other than q12 the rest look to be associated with flashers.

#8731 35 days ago

Trying to source the rivets and flaps for the ramps in TZ. Doing a PF swap and would like to get these replaced. Any info would be appreciated.

On another note, I am keeping a spreadsheet with misc info during the swap. Procurement, 3rd mag info, etc.

Here is a link to the view version of it. It is going to be changing over time since this project is fluid.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cpPt7E9-jpGFBFcxws7F77GraEo-IWlafqXq96BlAQw/edit?usp=sharing

#8732 35 days ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

Is q12 on the 8-driver pcb a cause for this issue? I’m looking at the diagram and I don’t see much connected to colum 9 clock optos other than q12 the rest look to be associated with flashers.

Yes - Q12 is the driver, and it only handles the switch column. (You wouldn't want it to handle anything else! )

#8733 34 days ago

Hello,

Can anyone with Ingo's clock board *and* a GI OCD board in their Twilight Zone help please?

I've finally got my TZ clock connected again after 2yrs (!) of restoring this machine and I'm running a GI dim 0-8 test but the stock white clock LEDs are not dimming as i was expecting them to.

I know there's a brightness dial on the clockboard, but haven't investigated this yet... it's the final v1.9 Clock board.

GI OCD board is set to dim the clock GI string, and all other playfield/backbox GI dims nicely with the Comet 2SMDs.

Thanks.

#8734 34 days ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

I’m still waiting on a response

Me either after multple attempts, bought and paid in full for boards in February - getting quite concerned!

#8735 34 days ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Me either after multple attempts, bought and paid in full for boards in February - getting quite concerned!

Yeah. I paid in full over two months ago. I understand shipping was a problem but it's been about a month and a half now with no response to multiple messages from me. I don't mind waiting if circumstances require it, but communication would make me feel more comfortable.

#8736 34 days ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Hello,
Can anyone with Ingo's clock board *and* a GI OCD board in their Twilight Zone help please?
I've finally got my TZ clock connected again after 2yrs (!) of restoring this machine and I'm running a GI dim 0-8 test but the stock white clock LEDs are not dimming as i was expecting them to.
I know there's a brightness dial on the clockboard, but haven't investigated this yet... it's the final v1.9 Clock board.
GI OCD board is set to dim the clock GI string, and all other playfield/backbox GI dims nicely with the Comet 2SMDs.
Thanks.

Ingo's board does not dim *as much* as other LEDs, but you should still see some kind of dimming. You say 'stock white', though, and that confuses me since you usually got to select the color you wanted with your board. (In toehr words, I'm not sure what a "non-stock" LED would be in Ingo's board.) Do the other LEDs on the SAME GI string dim alright? (The ones in the backbox behind the clock and title.)

#8737 34 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Ingo's board does not dim *as much* as other LEDs, but you should still see some kind of dimming. You say 'stock white', though, and that confuses me since you usually got to select the color you wanted with your board. (In toehr words, I'm not sure what a "non-stock" LED would be in Ingo's board.) Do the other LEDs on the SAME GI string dim alright? (The ones in the backbox behind the clock and title.)

Thanks for the reply.

The LEDs are the cool white option which come with the board. I opted NOT to use Rainbow as I know OCD boards (at least the LED OCD boards) generally don’t work with them.

I need to retest as I was focusing too much on the clock face, not the backbox, but I’m 90% sure they did dim.
EDIT, the backbox LEDs on the same string (Clock + insert) do dim very nicely, it's just the clock board's LED that dim only very slightly! It uses those superflux LEDs which i hate!

#8738 31 days ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Yeah. I paid in full over two months ago. I understand shipping was a problem but it's been about a month and a half now with no response to multiple messages from me. I don't mind waiting if circumstances require it, but communication would make me feel more comfortable.

Heads up... I heard from Ingo today. The boards are ready to go, but he says that shipping is still restricted to the US and AUS. I'm willing to wait, and glad to hear from him that all is ok.

#8739 31 days ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

EDIT, the backbox LEDs on the same string (Clock + insert) do dim very nicely, it's just the clock board's LED that dim only very slightly!

Try turning the brightness down on the clock board, and see how that does.

#8740 31 days ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Heads up... I heard from Ingo today. The boards are ready to go, but he says that shipping is still restricted to the US and AUS. I'm willing to wait, and glad to hear from him that all is ok.

Why is shipping restricted? Is this all covid19 still?

#8741 31 days ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

Why is shipping restricted? Is this all covid19 still?

Yes.

#8742 30 days ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

Why is shipping restricted? Is this all covid19 still?

Yes, a lot of parcels (especially those sent through postal services) go on commercial passenger flights which are currently almost non-existent between some countries due to Covid-19

#8743 30 days ago

FYI replaced q12 on my 8-driver board and I’m back in business

#8744 30 days ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

FYI replaced q12 on my 8-driver board and I’m back in business

Good job!

#8745 29 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Yes, a lot of parcels (especially those sent through postal services) go on commercial passenger flights which are currently almost non-existent between some countries due to Covid-19

Ugh, the impacts of Covid don't stop. Never thought about how mail would be impacted by the airlines being stopped.

#8746 28 days ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

Why is shipping restricted? Is this all covid19 still?

Just for reference, I ordered a Trough Proximity board from Australia ( from a different vendor).

Ordered April 27
Shipped April 28 Australian Post Standard International
Estimated delivery was listed as
May 11 - May 21
I just received the package today, June 10

So 6 weeks for delivery.

#8747 28 days ago

Almost done with my tear down... finally cleaned the whole thing and got the ramp rewired and replaced, took off the miniplayfield to restore and clean it up too. Got it all back together and realized the left magnet isn’t working ... arrgh!

Cliffys installed. Removed the scoop and saw how bad the welds are:

Luckily I have a Mantis ready to drop in!

6EF5EA68-1468-4301-9FB9-91724C475EE1 (resized).jpeg
#8748 24 days ago

I recently acquired a TWZ. It had the lighted apron, but the connectors from the board are gone. I’m not seeing anything online, does anyone know where I can get the correct connection?

It appears to be the one pictured.

420A2250-9C7A-41BE-8D22-E43DD90ED70D (resized).png
#8749 24 days ago
Quoted from Rydhia:

I recently acquired a TWZ. It had the lighted apron, but the connectors from the board are gone. I’m not seeing anything online, does anyone know where I can get the correct connection?
It appears to be the one pictured.[quoted image]

Wow. Tell you what, if you can't figure it out, I'll trade you for a slightly used, original one

#8750 24 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Wow. Tell you what, if you can't figure it out, I'll trade you for a slightly used, original one

Sounds good, I’ll also thrown in $100 since I don’t think it would be fair to you

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