I'm running the 9.4H Rom and have no problems with high scores. I am also using both GI-OCD and LED-OCD boards and they work awesome! TZ uses GI dimming quite a bit...

Can you confirm what's the lowest high score you've gotten that's been recorded?

I know my scores didn't beat any of the buy in list but they did on the other list however I'm not sure if both lists are 'open' for change or just the buy in score list.

I don't have the Buy-in turned on.

Sorry - it's been awhile... it takes almost 3 billion just to get on my high score list now, but I never had any issues with saving the high score or LITZ high score.

Wow - those are impressive numbers!

Maybe I'll turn off the buy in and see if that does anything.

All I have to say if if I get LITZ or above 1 billion I better get my name on the board

Yup, same here. I even went with warm white LEDs (save for the Green Lock) to make the game appear as if.. it's still incandescent. But, I'm a purist that wat with this game.

I Installed 9.4h about a week ago. Have buy in turned off (it's cheating!) And we have a score in the 700s that is displayed as I think high score 4. Never noticed a problem.

So it's looking like those that are reporting an issue bought in an extra ball.

Yes, this is a known bug in 9.4H - if you buy in, you (likely?) won't be able to enter in your initials, or get a credit. The high score table for buy-ins, and the credits awarded, is buggy.

Thanks Mike.... I’ll go through settings tomorrow and see what is going on. I have never changed my settings since buying my current TZ

THANKS

I was thinking it was intentional, so people can't buy their way to the high scores.

9.4H is a home version only, no credits/money allowed, so i can understand why buy-in was simply ignored.

Just increase your number of balls from 3 to whatever you want it to be! That way you put your score on the regular leader board.

I actually have a set of ocd boards sitting in a box for TZ. Not sure why it's taking me so long to get them installed. When you add up the costs of bulbs and these boards, it is a bit ridiculous but I love the end result.

I just had a huge score last night with a buy-in and put in my initials. I have 9.4h and never noticed anything buggy about it.

Yeah, there's a SECOND high-score table for anyone who bought-in. It's SUPPOSED to be used whenever someone buys an extra ball. However, due to the forced-free play and the pricing/adjustment options for it ("1 coin buy-in", "may buy-ins", etc), there was bugs in 9.4h that was never able to get fixed before it was released. The Backup Buyin HS settings are in A.3.

Since I never enabled buy-ins on my games (either now in my home, or back when I was an operator), I don't know the secret workaround to get initials to work with buy-ins.

There is another fun little bug, kind of related -
As you know, if you do the LITZ cheat, your score is reset back to "0" at the end of LITZ. Other things collected (like Battle the Power, Camera, etc) are kept.
HOWEVER- if the game successfully loads all gumballs before the end of the LITZ bonus, your score will NOT be reset.

Guys-

My upper PF magnets are no longer working. They worked fine previously then stopped. Can you tell me what you would check and in what order?

Thanks,

Start with the easy. Double check that the connectors are still connected/tight. I had this happen to me and I thought it was everything from a broken wire to a bad flipper board. Turned out the connector came loose somehow.

Where is the cheapest place to buy a magnet for the spiral diverter?

I've been trying out all the sound packages for PinSound and I must say the one I never thought would be good turned out REALLY good! It was the Western Zone package from DER33. Good job man!

Pm, If needed I will edit post if gone. I didn’t do a market place but can if needed just figured visibility here first club thing and all

image (resized).jpg

This is to help someone in the future with a unique clock issue. On startup the clock hands would never move in a clockwise direction. Even in test mode. I could make it go backwards but rarely forward. Sometimes everything seemed fine after fiddling with it. I even bought the board from German Pinball and it seemed to be fine but after awhile it would start to act up.

Finally after several times with taking the clock out of the game and jacking with the gears and doing everything I could think of. I found an old post where somebody had the same problem. He reflowed the the big transistor on the motor board below the playfield. I tried it and it worked. My clock runs perfectly and it tells perfect time while in attract mode.

I ordered the blue clock board from Ingo recently, hopefully will get it soon as the Pindorabox board that came with mine is a bit glitchy.
Also trying to get that Invader topper.

Ingo’s board is top quality. I’m using cold white LEDs in it.

I have cold white and the rainbow leds coming, wasn’t sure what would look best with the white clock face, has warm white at the mo which looks ok.
PCB is blue which I haven’t seen before and will match the blue clock case.

19ED380D-464B-4DE9-86F4-E2B4CFAEAA6E (resized).jpeg

Ingo's board is the best; you can't go wrong there.

I put the rainbows in mine. I didn't think that I would like it like that, but it has grown on me. For fun, I put some rainbows behind the clock on the backglass for a similar effect, and it looks great.

Think mine’s white! Can’t remember now. Rainbow LEDs may not work well with a GI OCD board, whites will be fine.

They did for the short time I had them in mine. But it was like, only a few games. (I went with warm-white, for that fresh-from-factory look.)

Wanna kick some ass in a Twilight Zone tournament?

Hey guys, I'm trying to set up an online tournament for next Friday (April 17th), and I'm trying to recruit participants that have one of the games I have. I'm going to be posting this in each of the forums for the games I own, so I apologize in advance if you get this more than once.

The tournament would be on a single game and take place over zoom. It sounds like it could be a hell of a good time.

Please head over here for info: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/online-tournament-over-zoom-#post-5587755

That was the fix! Allow dim illumination to off.

Today I installed the color changing door mod and the 6 slow blinkers. I highly recommend doing both it really brought the back glass to life.

Also, a note for those of you having HS issues, and this is important:

If you change the default High Scores in the Adjustments menu, you HAVE TO RESET your HSTD scores, so that the HSTD table is updated with your newest values. If you do not, the old configured scores will remain in memory until the next reset.

Another low +5v power issue, but I think different than others I've seen posted here and in the STTNG thread. Based on my diagnosis so far, I'm thinking something on the CPU board may be drawing down the 5v, see if you agree or disagree. About to pull the CPU board to install updated ROMs and a coin cell holder to replace remote battery holder, decided to also remove the Kahr board (installed a year ago or so, was preparing for a party when a reset happened) and analyze the +5v situation for a proper fix.

Stock TZ. Z connector removed properly a couple of years ago. No mods other than gumball flashers on playfield door panel. TZ has been in my home for over 20 years and sees very little use, so little "on" time. Mounting screws on driver board are snug. 124v at TZ's service outlet. C5 was replaced some time many years ago, not sure about BR2. Nothing else is powered up on TZ's branch circuit. Tests were run with a game started, but not actively being played.

Before removing Kahr board, 5.05v at Game ROM pin 32, 4.84v at TP2 on driver board.
After removing Kahr board, 4.80v at Game ROM pin 32, 4.81v at TP2 on driver board. Below 4.92v, so risky.
After reseating J101 4.84v at TP2, gain of only 0.03v.
After reseating J114, 4.81v at Game ROM pin 32, gain of only 0.01v.
After reseating plugs at transformer, no change in TP2 voltage.
Remove J114, J116, J117 and J118, 4.97v at TP2, gain of 0.13v. Seems significant.
Replace J114, TP2 drops back to 4.85v.
Replace J116, no change in TP2 voltage.
Replace J117, no change in TP2 voltage.
Replace J118, no change in TP2 voltage.
With all connectors in place, tested BR2 and associated cap as per Pinwiki instructions using a test lead clipped onto the top left lead (positive) of BR2. DC volts = 10.07, AC volts = 237mv.
Did not examine the Thermistor, haven't pulled any of the boards yet (so haven't checked for poor solder joints) but the boards look unhacked.

The standout item to me is the drop in +5v reading at TP2 from 4.97v with J114 disconnected to 4.85v with J114 reconnected. So, something on the CPU board is pulling down the +5v?

I do have a PSU5 on hand so I could easily replace the LM323K when I have the driver board out for inspection, and was thinking of doing that anyway to reduce current draw / heat.

How would you proceed next?

I don't have experience with that specific issue, but I repair electronics and have some ideas.

The supply drops under load, but that does not confirm there is a supply or CPU issue.

+5v supply issues on WPC are common so that is the most likely cause.

The CPU works with the Klar board and does not load it down, so that also points to the 5v supply.

To further troubleshoot, you could swap boards with another WPC pin for testing.

You could also shut down and unplug every cable output from the CPU board and just keep it to connected to the driver board and confirm you get similar voltage results, although I would expect the load to be somewhat less.

Hey gang

Need some assistance...

My twilight zone was having opto issues on switch 87 just as the ball enters the top of the gum all machine. I fixed the opto and it registers in test mode.

When you start a new game you can qualify the “Gum” and “Ball” lamps by hitting the left and right ramps as normal. Once qualified you can load the gumball via the right orbit as normal. The gumball cycles out a ball and all is great.

Problem is that the “gum” and “ball” inserts remain on and you cannot requalify the gumball to load it again.

Any thoughts on why the gumball would qualify once and never reset the “gum” and “ball” inserts?

It may think it hasn’t dispensed a ball, but when I run the continuous gumnpball test I see all Switches registering, including the exit switch.

Any Thoughts?

Is this one of the settings for the mode that can be changed perhaps?

Since you didn't say anything about locking a ball, this is expected.

"GUM" and "BALL" lite lock.
Factory defaults, the second and third lock/release do not require to to lite lock again. So, after your first multiball then, the lights will extinguish, allowing you to lite them again.

Hmmm...I can’t imagine why.

Essentially you can load and cycle the gumball machine ONCE per game. Not sure what the point would be for that.

I could see disabling the gumball altogether.

Maybe I’m missing something.

Appreciate the thought!

Hmmm I thought GUM (Left ramp) and BALL (Right ramp) lights the gumball machine not the ball lock.

Oh crap wait a minute...reading the instructions. “You cannot spell gumball again until you have used the lit lock or completed multiball”.

And here I thought once you loaded the gumball the GUM and BALL inserts reset. Ugh

You sir appear to be correct!

Guess I was just looking for trouble

Well I find myself again having this issue with the game not ejecting any balls. I suspect the trough powerball detector again, even though I replaced it a few months ago and have played very few games since then. arrrrgh!!

Those that do repair work on these boards - is a drop from 4.97v to 4.85v a normal amount of drop to see at TP2 when connecting J114?

Need more info, man.. WHEN does it not eject? A faulty prox sensor (in either the trough or the subway) won't **prevent** the game from ejecting.

*cough* Let me know when I'm not.

Aah ok good. ! That prox sensor was pricey!

I haven’t had time to troubleshoot anything yet. It’s not ejecting anything at all from the trough - happens immediately from game start - all coils fire fine if I manually eject a ball into the shooter lane. Maybe just a switch?

Lol!

Click on the quoted link for the original post. Not sure if it applies, but maybe.

Ah - okay, likely a trough switch is not registering, and another switch is (shooter lane), so the game believes that a ball is already sitting in the shooter lane (since it's not in the trough), and therefore isn't kicking one out. Guessing right now without more info. Go switch test, and check all the trough switches and the shooter lane switch.

If that's not it, check that your slot coil is working and your lock release coil is working. If they're not, and a ball is stuck in there, the game will not start a game as it tries to eject the balls.

What do you want to bet I have something stuck down there somehow, obstructing a switch? Wouldn't be the first time! Something rocketed off my STTNG once (I think it was STTNG) and I didn't notice - and it clogged up the trough.

Well, I just gave up on being able to do some updates at work I was planning on today.. so TZ here I come!

I've seen.. a LOT. Including somehow a roll-tilt pinball make its way up ONTO a playfield, and because it's smaller, it.. was causing issues. So, yeah, i would not be surprised.

I don't visit this thread as much as I should (game has been solid for some time), but calling out to all TZ faithful to overcome the mighty MM w your votes:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/round-4-greatest-pinball-game-of-all-time-tournament-edition

No remakes, IPDB #1 forever until recently.....vote!!!! fun way to take our minds off the obvious for a moment.....

Couldn't get the link from your reply, but I did get it by going back to your earlier post, thanks! Chased the link. No connector burn at J101 for me, and C5 has been previously replaced. My voltage is a bit lower at TP2 than what he had, only 4.85v. Well, I think I have checked most everything I can check without pulling boards, so it is time to pull the driver board. I'll check the relevant header pin solder joints and reconfirm no connector burn. I think I'll install the PSU5 to replace the LM323K and see if that helps, but may throw in another driver board first to see if it exhibits the same symptoms in the game.

While I'm in the thread, what is the average time for battery changeout (alkalines) ? Just changed mine today as I noticed the clock was way off. Had the game for years, but always seem to be running on the edge...

Will use the maintenance log and set my outlook scheduler accordingly....thanks for the help (seems this game runs through them, and not sure if lithium will give noticeable improvement in life on this game).....

Yep, I was coming in here to say the same thing. Let’s hope TZ can close the gap, it’s not very far apart now.

Too funny!!!! It is doable...2 days left..

I have had my lithium in for years. I checked the voltage recently and there was only a slight drop from new! I have lithium in all my pins.