Twilight Zone Owner's club

I could have said there are two yellow wires coming out of the connector in the first photo. one of them goes two pin 9 on the opto board shown in the photo. The othe wire coming out of the connector in the first phot is hanging loose, not connected, looks like it was soldered some where.

Thanks for following this, Walt

White/Yellow is Switch Row 4 (for the Clock 30 Minutes). Check other switches in that row - likely, they won't register.

Can someone look at their playfield and see where that other wire goes?

I am doing a total tear down of my TZ and decided I want to look into a back panel decal or whatever since Ive got it all torn down. What is out there and does anyone know what exactly the plastic tips screwed into the back panel are for?

Hey Squeakman,

Can you look at the few post above and tell me where that wire goes? (take a photo?) I will check out the plastic tips.

Happily joined the club. What an amazing machine. This one been stored for quite a bit.

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Cleaning up nicely tho.

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Thast's a dirty one right there, will be a great transformation!

Looks to be in great condition, once you've removed the layer of filth and the cab isn't faded (... well from the side we've seen). Congrats on the pickup!!

It is surprisingly good. Orig coil stops (in decent shape) were still in flipper mechs, orig foams in target's.
Nos replacement sling plastics were still in cabinet (with manual!)

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Anybody got a copy of the instructions for Great Lakes' TZ mini-PF switch kit? Just after a scanned or photographed copy, helping out a local guy whose copy are MIA.

Thanks

Following this up - I have now fitted the Pinbits Gumball light and it works perfectly with the GI OCD, and I also used the playfield right GI string to ensure it flashes when the call-out for the power ball happens.

This is how my Tales of The Arabian Nights was. It had that plus the sling mylars, and a few operator supplements as well as the big schematic manual. Everything looks as though its never been touched. not even a crease in the operator manual binding.

Nice find!!

Nice pickup! I’m headed to Detroit area to pick up my third TZ. I’m a pin hoarder!

Does anyone know what would cause TZ to reboot during gameplay? It happened once during a multiball and a ball was in play on the mini playfield during the multiball

You most likely have issues with your power driver board. Low 5V did it to me. I did a refurbish of my board a few years back (new caps, bridges and the 5Vdc regulator) to solve the power issues.

It could be as simple as loose connectors on the power driver board...You will need to do some troubleshooting and voltage measurements...

Yup, quite simply low 5v. Kahr's daughterboardwould fix (mask) it, or a power board repair.

Thanks guys! I Appreciate Your help

OK, I think the best way to determine value is to hear what the "market" says it's worth.

Let me know what you think.

Here's a link to pix: https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0rJ0DiRHJujABv

Stock, came with:
- chrome legs
- CPR screened backglass
- sideart
- completely redone cabinet/decals
- new cleared playfield
- new plastics/main NOS ramp/subway
- rebuilt/new flipper mechs
- Stern leg protectors
- rebuilt clock, new clock board

So far, I have added:
- colorDMD
- Pinsound
- Chrome lockdown
- new OPTO board
- Flipper Fidelity speakers
- magnet for diverter

Mods I will be adding soon (not pictured):
- Rocket mod
- Clock Millions
- Camera
- Lighted TZ on mini playfield

Looks like I will be owning this beast for awhile.

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That's quite a nice collector quality TZ. It doesn't sound like you want to sell, but when you do, it might take a while to find a buyer who is looking for the nicest TZ available, but they will need to pay up for it.

I see you have spot lights on the left sling. You might consider adding Pinstadiums. They brighten everything up and enhance the light show. I always thought that TZ would really benefit from those.

Mods like color DMD and Pinsound enhance the value, but toys like the rocket and such don't add much to the resale value IMHO.

Enjoy getting Lost in the Zone!

Looks beautiful! I would guess value is at least $7,500 - $8,000, probably more for the right buyer.

That machine looks better than new. It is immaculate. You should be very proud. I watch the market closely and it seems that original machines that are un-restored are trading in the $6500-$7500 range. This is a whole other level. I would think it would be worth $9-10k to the right buyer. It would take some time to find them, but they are there. One unit in Philadelphia is listed at sale pending with the original asking price of $9500.

Winner, winner, chicken dinner! That's about what I have in it after adding the colorDMD, pin sound, speakers, and chrome. Doesn't include the other mods, which I agree you don't get dollar for dollar for "cosmetic" mods. But, certain upgrades like color DMD, pin sound, speakers, and (I forgot, but will be adding) invisiglass.

My friend who started me in pinball told me for years I needed to get a TZ. Boy, I don't know why I waited so long. I have a slim line up of 4 pins: Shadow, TZ, TSPP, and GOTG. I want to add a DILE, but one has to go, likely the GOTG. And, if I had room, I would like a T2. Here's to wishing!

Thanks. I took off the spot lights on the slings. I like your idea of pinstadium, it's just another $300... For now, I'm going with strategic placement of spot lights, but I don't want them to block anything I want to see. I felt they were blocking my view when they were on the slings...so, took them off there.

Adding the Invisiglass will help as well, since the glare will be much less. Made a big difference on my TZ.

I like your collection. I was deciding between TZ and TSPP a few years ago and chose TZ. Last year I was also deciding between TSPP, GOTG and Deadpool Pro (had to sell Stargate and Checkpoint to make room) and chose Deadpool... love that game and the rest of my collection sits around barely getting played, including TZ (which I love!).

Help! Odd thing happened today. I turn on my TZ today to change the time and I get nothing. No lights come on, clock doesn't move...nothing. I can hear a faint ticking sound coming from the back box. I haven't opened it yet as I have to move the machine to get at it. This is definitely a new issue with no warning. Any thoughts? Is this a thermistor issue? Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks all.

I guess the clicking is the reset circuit on the CPU. Open the backbox and check the LEDs on the power driver board (largest board) to confirm they are on with the power on. You can also check the fuses on that board with the power off.

Sorry I'm late, room for one more?
Owned her for a day and have the following on the way;
Divertor magnet, colordmd, new full replacement flipper assemblies from pbl, lampshade with cutout logo, piano mod, and decals for upper ramp and divertor. Ugh.... This game has endless add ons!

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Is there anyone that does ramp flap kits for twilight zone. Pinbits are sold out and haven't responded to messages if they can make more.

Even if someone had the cad files and I could get them cut locally. Would purchase a few sets if anyone was making them.

Your WPC board's not booting up. As neal_w mentioned, check voltages to the MPU. Check that your ASIC chip, EPROMs are seated firmly, and that all your connections are firm. Likely your twop two LEDs will be on solid when it is doing this..

Thanks Coyote - I have not had a free second to open her up to see what's going on in there. Hopefully tomorrow. Could this be a ribbon cable issue between the driver board and MPU board?

*Possible* but unlikely. The MPU will (should?) boot up with the power driver's ribbon cable completely disconnected, BUT, the /RESET signal traces through a few of those ribbon cables, and if they're not plugged in squarely then that could cause this to happen.

Thanks again. Once I get a chance to get into the machine, I'll try reseating everything, including the ribbon cables. This is so odd. It came out of nowhere. The machine has been trouble free for the 15+ years I've owned it.

Some fine tuning questions -

What position do you adjust the upper left flipper? If I set the flipper back all the way to the roll pin, an orbit shot rolling over the flipper will bounce off the post below it, sending the ball toward the rocked kicker. Adjusting it away from the roll pin a litte seemed to make more sense, so an orbit shot would roll over the UL flipper and feed the lower right flipper, but that seem to make the piano shot tougher from the UL flipper.

Any tips for getting the auto-launch kicker to make it around the orbit repeatedly? I made a few adjustments, and centering the kicker arm itself seemed to help a little. I think the gate by the rocket deflects it right occasionally. Any tricks?

Almost finished shop job. Last of piece to do is the clock.
I got the clear ramp from Starship, really looks nice. I have an undamaged stock ramp if anyone needs, pm me. $50 incl. ship

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Pinballs often get pushed to the front of my gumball machine and get stuck there for a while until they randomly start rotating through again. Once the powerball gets stuck the main objective of the game becomes to shoot to the gumball a dozen or so times to get it out. Any ideas on how I can get the middle ball back on top so balls rotate through in an orderly fashion again?

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Looks as though you are missing a plastic piece in the gumball machine to hold the balls in place and order.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8887

Awesome, thanks! I better look in the gumball to see if it is lodged in there somewhere but nice to know I can order one if I need it.

I just got that TZ delivered and setup today. My first pin! I wanted a fully shopped and heavily modded (and local) TZ to be my first. So happy right now

My game came to me without this part installed in the gumball machine. so occasionally the balls lean forward and don't stay in the correct order. Could someone tell me how it this is installed in the gumball machine?

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Take the topo red cap off of the gumball machine. Flip the piece upside down from that pictured, and set it in the two notches cut into the globe of the gumball machine. Then re-fasten the top red cap.

yeah, with the pointy bit facing towards the player so balls move from high at the back of the gumball down to low at the front. You'll see another plastic blade at the bottom facing up to guide the balls down. Note mine has a notch out the top to allow space for the Pinbits light board. Also note the lack of balls in the gumball is because i'm mid-tear-down and rebuild right now
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Awesome and simple. You guys rock!

Welcome to the club! Great to see another local person getting into the hobby. Just be sure to leave room for the next pin.... and the next pin.... and the next pin... and

That little plastic piece made me nuts years ago. Couldn't figure out why the balls would get lodged. Finally realized I had never put that piece back when I cleaned out the gumball machine.

Does anyone know what price range a TZ with a good playfield, new decals, and invisaglass would go for? Just looking for a broad range. I'm completely lost on pricing of machines these days.

$6200 - 8200
Depends on who’s buying and who is selling.
I bought my first one for $4500. Three months later I paid $6500 for another one.

7500-8000

I just rebuilt this and moved everything over to a new set of plastics. When I first plugged it back in with flashing LEDs I thought I rewired it wrong. I came to find out that the led flashers won’t work in the sockets? When I put the regular back in its working. Any ideas why this is happening? Also I got the 5 blinking bulbs for the back box and they don’t blink I. The black sockets that are marked for flashers. When I put regular in they Work.
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The black sockets aren't flashers. They're sockets for blinkers. #545 bulbs.
For the plastic and flasher, no clue. Maybe your LEDs are polarity-specific, and you plugged them in wrong? Try rotating them 180-degrees?