And TERRIBLE customer service!

Here are the rails I'm referring to- They are INSIDE the cabinet on the top of the playfield. They tend to crack/separate over time causing the portion of the playfield rear of the hinges to sag.

PF rails TZ (resized).JPG

PF rails TZ 2 (resized).JPG

Thanks. Looks like not an issue for me. I think a friend and I believe it's because this pin was fully restored including the cabinet and playfield. It seems that this cabinet may not have been an original TZ. Has anyone else experienced this? Someone restore your cabinet and used a different widebody cabinet?

http://www.pbresource.com/legs.html
Here you can buy a 31” leg to put on the back of you cab. This should get your slope into the range you need it in

Thanks!

Can anyone tell me the different uses of a 7/16 and 3/8 rubber rings? The manual for TZ just states bumper for the 16 small posts and now I’m thinking I bought a bunch of extra 7/16 when I should have bought more 3/8. I’ve always been a bit confused where each is typically used?

The "bumpers" should be all 7/16 O.D., no 3/8 O.D. is needed.

TZ (resized).png

If I may offer a alternate suggestion...

My TZ, like many others, had leg plates that were stripped out so that the bolts did not tighten all the way. I decided to replace the plates inside the cabinet. When I ordered the replacement brackets, I found that they only had 2 holes as opposed to the 3 that the originals had. It is possible to install these in such a way that the "top" hole in the front is actually the middle hole, thus making the pitch much more shallow and resulting in a need to jack the back legs way up. You would not notice this unless you pulled off the leg protector and realized there was an extra hole up top. If this is the case (and it could be if this was a restore), simply pull the bracket out, turn it upside down, and make it so that the holes on the bracket line up to the top 2 holes on the cabinet. Then reinstall the legs and you will have a more normal pitch. I have seen from looking at many pictures over the years that this is a very common problem with TZ due to the 3 hole options for legs.

Credit also to Coyote who basically pointed this out in an earlier post.

I noticed his cabinet doesn’t look Like an original TZ cab

Noticed how? Aftermarket decals? Just want to know what denotes a "non-TZ" widebody cabinet by just looking at the outside.

There are a few widedody cabinets to chose from that he could have under the decals.
Gottlieb, system 1,
Genie
roller disco
system 80
panthera
the amazing Spider-Man
counterforce
star race
james bond
time line
force 2
pink panther
mars god of war
volcano
black hole
haunted house
eclipse
devils dare
rocky
spirit
punk
striker
krull
qberts quest
goin nuts
Williams.
contact
algar
stellar wars
laser ball
scorpion
Pokerino
bally
paragon
hotdoggin
space invaders
embryon
future spa
bally/Williams super pin
twilight zone
Indiana jones
judge dread
star trek the next generation
popeye saves the earth
demolition man
red and teds road show
data east
wwf royal rumble
guns and roses
Sega
Batman forever
hankin
the empire strikes back
Atari
the atarians
middle earth
space riders
superman
time 2000
airbourne avenger
4x4
road runner
stern electronics
flight 2000
big game
split second
iron maiden
cheetah
Orbitor 1
Viper
jersey jack pinball
the wizard of oz
the hobbit
Heghway pinball
full throttle
alien
Spinball
Jolly park
Vernes world
Behemoth body, or ludicrous body pins,
Bally Bigfoot
Atari Hercules.

You did not answer my question. You said it does not LOOK like a TZ cabinet to you. Why? What tells you it's not a TZ cabinet from just looking at it?? I've owned 3 widebody bally/williams games, (popeye, TZ, Indy) and all 3 games have completely different cabinet fronts, and the playfield hinge bolts are in different locations. I just want to know how you can tell by looking at the photo that it is not a TZ cabinet. The front looks right to me.

The giany list of widebody games has zero to do with anything.

Doesn’t look like he has the 3 holes, which would make it not a TZ cabinet. Isn’t that the only cab where they drilled 3 holes?

Here's the TZ I've been talking about. It was restored about 9 months ago.

Here's the original ad. It still looks the same, except mine has Sideblades and a CPR mirrored backglass:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/82182

I have a good friend who has a nice TZ as well. I've been able to compare and look at his as issues or discrepancies crop up. He was instrumental in helping me fix the clock, which I posted earlier.

One piece of evidence is the switch to turn on the game. Mine has a rocker switch. His has a "lever" type switch. How about yours? Is it a rocker or lever?

You can see from the original restoration, the major work included the following:
- restored cabinet
- new playfield, triple cleared
- new and/or rebuilt mechs

I appreciate everyone's ideas on how to work with the pitch. My friend's pitch "bubble" is about the same position, yet his playfield is higher. So, I guess that tells me the cabinet relative to the ground is the same, but the inside playfield is at a different orientation, right? In any case, I have it close to where I want it and I'm going to take another's advice from another post that said to remove the front lock nut to give another 1/4" or so. And if that's not enough, back leg coasters to add more height. As a last ditch effort, can get the 31" Gottlieb legs. However, this game came with nice chrome legs.

The rocket switch is from a more recent power box; my sample TZ has the “lever” switch, and the power box stands upright instead of flat on the cab floor. Never seen another game like it

You are amazing! Thanks for your wealth of knowledge. You didn’t give me a chance to explain myself before getting snappy about my comment.
I’m sorry that my comment annoyed you so much. My input is obviously not needed here because my knowledge of TZ is so below your level. Thanks for the welcoming

Your bubble could also just be reversed. Yes, it comes out of the plastic holder. Heck, for that matter, the plastic holder could be reversed. But I think you'd notice THAT.

What is the proper way to repair this? My inserts are very slightly lifted will be trying to clamp them down soon.

20200221_062832 (resized).jpg

WPC machines had the power box upright but they moved to having them flat on the cab floor when they moved to WPC-DCS (IJ being the first to have it flat).

My TZ has a rocker, I think the only machine I have that has a lever is STTNG which I assumed the original had been replaced - but maybe B/W leveraged both around this time depending upon what was in stock at the suppliers??

This is NOT true!!!! If you look at the PMs, my last PM I have sent you was PM #29 and I never did get an answer from you!!!!

This is NOT true!!!! None of my boards is shipped defective, all boards are tested extensively on my test bench and in my TZ Pinball machine before shipping.

Just send the allegedly defective board back to me at my expense and I will refund the purchase price at once. Then you no longer need to look at your decoration board and I no longer have to be annoyed with your destructive comments.

My STTNG had a lever too. I was trying to remember if my TAF had an upright power box. It was too long ago. But I do know it had a lever as well.

Based on tear down images on Pinside and the net, TAF was up right as well.

My STTNG lever switch is installed in the opposite direction to all my toggle switches, which always throws me when I go to turn it on or off. Is this just mine or did they install them this direction because of the orientation of the connectors in the power box???

Thank you, I was waiting for you to chime in.

Had a fine day working on my beloved TZ today. Long overdue flipper assembly repair/ replace (kind of wish I'd taken pics of how bad they were, they were obviously original), new coil sleeves and stops, some new LEDs and rubbers, a good Novus cleaning, and finally, new mirror blades from Pinball Decals.

It was a rather satisfying day of work and the old girl looks and plays like a dream now!

Would you be able to reply to my email about the rainbow LEDs please? I’ve already sent payment to you.

This is what my clock is doing at the moment.. very strange behaviour. The other GI on the same string is fine so I don’t think it’s a power problem. It seems to get better the longer the pin is on too...

Are you using LED GIOCD?

I just got a restored TZ about a week ago. Still trying to get all the issues fixed.

My last one is the game kicks out two balls during the start of the game and sometimes during the game.

I replaced the right trough switch, but that didn't do anything. Anyone else ever experience this? Could it be MPU? I replaced/switched driver board from my Shadow, with no difference.

Any ideas how to fix?

Thanks.

J133 issue. I noticed some lights out on my newly purchased TZ. checked lamp matrix and advice of a few friends to determine it was J-133-9. Chased a few rabbits until I finally pulled the J133 connector for the 4th time and out pops the number 9 wire. It appeared previous owner just jammed it in without really repairing it. So, I rebuilt the connector (see pictures) and now all lights work as they should.

IMG_0449 (resized).jpeg

IMG_0450 (resized).jpeg

IMG_0451 (resized).jpeg

IMG_0452 (resized).jpeg

IMG_0453 (resized).jpeg

Yes, but it was doing the same thing before I installed it and the board is known to be compatible with it. Also the two LEDs at the bottom don’t seem to be affected.

The flickering stops after the pin has been on for ~3 minutes or so which makes me think it’s an esoteric problem, which are the best ones!

I’m leaning towards the LEDs having gone bad tbh.

Yeah, my thought was that the board may be, but maybe the LEDs aren't. (AFAIK, the LEDs handle their own color-changing, not the board. I use jusyt warm-white in mine, so never tried with the rainbow ones. )

Indeed. Annoying as I wasn't planning on disassembling the clock again any time soon.

The GI that the clock shares (the Twilight Zone logo in the backbox) does not flicker at all, it's just these two bulbs, possibly three. Was hoping forlornly that someone might have had this problem before with rainbow LEDs and the Ingo clock board and had a magic solution that didn't involve taking it apart.

I've checked the GI connector under the playfield and it's fine. I suppose it's possible the two connectors under the clock have developed problems, but that seems unlikely as the clock is fixed in place and the wires would never have moved.

Nah, I agree that it's likely the LEDs.
On the plus side - the whole clock does not need to come apart - you can take the front lens off, the two hands off, and then unscrew the front face/decal, and access the LEDs that way.

Good point. I’m a bit worried about losing the ring and little pipe (?) that goes through the minute hand though.

Paper towel down, and be careful.

does anyone have a GLM opto board available for ingo to use to replicate . Hes expressed interest in remaking this board in the GLM spirit, but needs it for a few days to copy/improve it. I don't have one....

What brand is the original?

Great Lakes Modular remade the board years ago (now out of business it seems) this is what he needs...

I have an extra but never examined it to see it’s maker but it looks old. So I am assuming it to be original to the game.

12 LED clock board that provides "carpet lighting".

This one lights the clock face completely, like the clock seen on the translite:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CLK001P

Left with my buddy to pinsit for a month or two.....

92202D93-041A-49B1-8240-D1DDADBEFF92 (resized).jpeg

here is a pic of the old and newer style (old on the left) this is the 10A board not the 10B
pasted_image (resized).png

HomePin makes I nice repro 10 opto board that I have a in my machine. Very close to the original with the components.

They don’t look like TZ ones as far as I can tell. The TZ one has 5 connectors, one large one and 2 either side.

This is Homepin’s one:

49CC11EF-028B-4FC1-A8E3-092E7ACB50CB (resized).jpeg

yes the TZ uses the 10B, these old boards use a lot of power, the ones made by GLM were a much improved version, which is what Ingo is looking at doing.

What are Homepin’s ones like? I think I might need one of these.

Thanks

Homepin does good boards, designed to look as close to the original as possible (which I like) but will also addresses issues that existed on the original design. They're in stock at a range of major pinball suppliers around the world

https://www.pinballlife.com/homepin-store.html

https://www.pinballshop.nl/electronics-parts/boards/homepin-a-16807-special-10-opto-board-suits-twilight-zone-includes-mounting-brackets/?sl=en

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/electronics/boards/williams/a-16807.html

Thanks. It’s a shame I can’t find any information about the Homepin board, like how it is better. GLM would always go into detail about what was changed and why, and whatever benefits resulted.

GLM's board had a FPGA, that would 'strobe' each of the optos, and store the value in memory, and would then 'report' it's finding when the game would strobe the switch matrix.

Unfortunately, I have a 7-opto board, not a 10, so I can't really help - but he would need to reverse-engineer the FPGA's programming.