Pinsound is great. Re-Wire speakers for true stereo. $20 speakers from Parts Express work well.
Not familiar with the external volume control. Once I got Pinsound, it took a little fine tuning and now I just use the coin door volume switches from time to time.
Color DMD is awesome, I prefer the LED version.
LED OCD and GI OCD are great in TZ, especilly with all of the dimming in the GI. The difference was bigger than I expected.
Sure magnet is cheap and doesn't have a down side I'm aware of.
I'm using Invisiglass. Looks great.

PinSound is unnecessary in my opinion, and you lose Golden Earring unless you just use the same mix that is already on the pin, at which point what’s the benefit of PinSound in upmixing a lossy source?

I have Flipper Fidelity speakers in mine and it sounds plenty good enough. I wouldn’t want to lose any of the iconic callouts etc. Flipper Fidelity speakers can be bought with an external volume control as well, I have mine just inside the coin door.

LED OCD and GI OCD is great, as it is on any pin really. I’d say personally I’ve noticed less of an impact than having it on something that really uses dimming for sequences - e.g. TAF multiball, but it’s still great.

Diverter magnet mod is a no-brainer, no downside.

PDI/Invisiglass also great.

1. Sure, a little bit of fidling around though so allow yourself to invest some time in it. I always disliked the sound on TZ, so sad DCS sound only came in the next generation of pinball machines. TZ could have benefit from that. I always put a woofer in the cabinet (JBL Stage 810) and some kind of speaker setup in the backbox. For my TZ I added a full range 5.25" speaker on the left side and a tweeter on the right side. It improves the sound but isn't super convincing unfortunately.
2. Personally I don't often change the volume settings on my machines and have no experience with pinnovator.
3. For sure, I like it smooth though. I added the SmartDMD option and put it to black/white. Cheap setup with a great output. I will replace it with a color dmd in the future.
4. No experience with that one.
5. YEAH!!!! For sure. It's an expensive mod and gets the job done. Simple and easy. The only downside is that the powerball isn't affected by the magnet and now "stands out" from the steel balls.
6. YEAH!!!! No brainer in my book.

Twilight zone is one of those pins that really benefits from adding mods to it. But don't overdo it! I added the following items:
- third magnet (I was clearcoating and touching up the playfield anyway so that third magnet was mandatory)
- Slot machine mod
- Gumball lighting
- Yellow convolux beneath de slingshot and outlane plastics
- Backboard decal
- Television mod
- Camera mod (needs to be mounted though)
- Trough lighting
- v9.4H rom
- Battery mod
- Sound system (as discussed)
- Upper playfield lamp cover
- Leds in the clock
- Leds all over the playfield, GI and backbox. Color coded at some places to highlight certain areas in a moderate way so it doesn't become a complete colorfest
- Illuminated transparent flipper buttons
- Transparant silicone rubbers

In planning to do at a later time:
- SmartDMD to be replaced by a color DMD
- Piano mod
- Camera mod (I got the camera's from Ebay for like 1.29 dollars each, they need to be modified so they fit in the machine)

Hope this helps, enjoy that great machine!

Pinsound - depends on whether you want to change the music or callouts. IMO, it is worth it. You can add the music as
originally written when the game
Was Going to be a DCS machine. This means no Golden Earring song, which is not a change everybody likes.

I'd wait on speakers. Decide if you want to radically change the music - otherwise don't bother with changing the speakers. The audio is pretty poor on TZ so better speakers don't help much unless you are updating the music with pinsound.

An alternative is the PinWoofer

ColorDMD: most people like the DotXL setting. YMMV

LEDOCD - a definite Yes. Actually I'd get the GIOCD first. Makes a ton of difference in TZ. Changes are a bit subtle at first but worth it.

Yes get th magnet for the ramp diverter. You can get it at Home Depot for $5. Must-have

Your call on the glass. If it's as nice a restore as you say, you may enjoy the glass. Not necessarily a must-have although I have it on almost all my games (ironically not on TZ). It's just expensive, but the difference is noticeable

Have pinsound/speakers in mine, original sound Mix is crisper and punchier than original soundboard and speakers. With the bonus of different mixes if I fancy it.
Pinwoofer setup would make a big improvement too. But I’m fussy about sound.

1. I wouldn't.
3. I wouldn't.
4. Hell yes.

1) Never heard pinsound difference. My opinion is stock sound fine for what it is. Gets expensive buying all new sound stuff.
2) I set my volume once at home and that's it.
3) Colordmd nice but not absolutely needed. I got one since dmd had issues. DotXL for best setting and most agree.
4) I bought both LED and GI OCD boards for TZ but not installed yet. I have the boards on WH2O and what a difference. I debated getting the boards for TZ since it looks acceptable. I put a lot of effort in my lighting so I decided better go all out and get it perfect.
5) There are several mods worthwhile on TZ. I recommend the magnet on the ball catcher, the extra plastic diverter thing in the gumball machine to keep balls from jamming, and gumball door flashers.
6) Anti glare glass is expensive. I've seen it on games and while it's nice, not worth big bucks to me.

Hey Guys,

Thanks for all the tips and experience with TZ upgrades and mods. I don't want to over do it, but I'm good with adding to the overall experience. Another factor is that I ask myself, "will it add value to the price if I every sell it?" Or, is it lost money.

Again, thanks for the ideas, suggestions, and tips.

Mods are personal preference, so potential buyers may not see the value, and most find it is hard to recoup the money spent on mods, especial those that are cosmetic.

Color DMD is one exception where sellers often say something like: price is 7300, and 7000 if I remove the color DMD.

Pinsound with the Kitzrow TZ remix is the way to have the best of both worlds.

it’s definitely better - but some of the songs are way overcompressed and sound real muddy. There’s still room for improvement

Roman glass is probably the best upgrade in all of pinball. Eliminates having to add lights on darker games, and you can keep good glass when you sell if you like. Seeing the game is pretty important in pinball.

1. remote battery holder
2. Diverter magnet
3. ColorDMD
4. LEDOCD.
5. single PCB clock board (Rottendog is what I used) get rid of the OEM clock board (dual)

Totally agree on #1!

If you are planning on getting an LEDOCD (you should), the only clock board that works properly with LEDOCD is Ingo’s board. None of the other TZ clock boards work correctly. Not the original, not PinballLizard, not Rottendog, and not the other Led strip one whose name escapes me. I tried them ALL.

Wow, that's good advice. I have a new clock board, but not sure which one. I guess I have to take apart to see which one I have? Or, is there another way to find out?

I believe you may have to take it apart. It’s not that hard but you have to be SUPER careful, and don’t lose the little pin that holds in the clock hands. lay a towel down on the playfield so you don’t lose anything.

I see my games perfectly without fancy glass. Never had an issue seeing games at a show or on location. I bet the average person wouldn't notice the difference if you had two games side by side - one with the anti glare glass and one with normal glass.

I don’t know - I have my TZ (regular glass) right next to 3 games which all have Invisiglass.. it is REALLY obvious in my gameroom. Not sure that makes it rise to the level of “must have”, but it’s pretty noticeable if your room has a lot of lights. Even my dad commented on how much easier it is to see without all the reflections, and he didn’t know anything about such glass.

Where is this available for download? Haven't seen this one... Thanks!

Take the whole clock out of the game. It’s not difficult and it means you can take it apart without fear of losing anything. There’s a lot of small C clips etc that can go flying if you’re not careful.

This is not true. The rottendog board works just fine with it. In some instances, you need to reverse the soldered in leads on one or more of the 4 LEDs because of polarity, otherwise the LED(s) will not work when the GIOCD is installed. I had to reverse just one LED on it.

I cannot comment on the Ingo board, because mine that I ordered (white one) was delivered defective, and is now a decoration in my shop. All I am saying is the rottendog board will work also, and it's cheaper.

https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/boards/rottendog-boards/twilight-zone-pinball-machine-clock-board-clk001-rottendog/

EDIT: I also want to say that GIOCD is not necessary on this game. I had mine for about 2 years with only the LEDOCD board installed, which fixes the strobing of the controlled lamps under the PF, because the GI on TZ doesn't really do much when compared to other and later games such as WPC95 games. WHen I finally installed my GIOCD board, I did not notice any real difference. I did, however, notice GIOCD difference massively on my Tales of the Arabian Nights

IMHO, Rottendog makes horrid quality boards. With experiences of having to fix other local's machines using them, I'll never get one again. And Ingo always backs up his stuff - if you didn't contact him to let him know, it's on you, sorry.

sent him info regarding this, zero response. my TZ had been running the rottendog board for 3+ years no problems.

Also- It's on HIM, SORRY! I did attempt to contact him. The fact that the guy is "always away or out of town" is on him, not me.

Kind of my exact point.

But +1 for linking to Little Shop of Games. AWESOME store!

I'm sure you did, but make sure GI dimming is turned on in the system settings. I noticed a pretty big difference after I installed my GI OCD in TZ. Of course I also "optimized" the dimming settings for what I thought was the most noticeable in my game.

That’s a great point. I believe GI dimming is OFF by default. Very important clarification

I did. I do this to all my games whenever I install LED bulbs. Not saying it doesn't help, but when I had my Indiana Jones, I was ready to yank the GI board from TZ and put it in it instead! I never did- Sold Indy- Kept TZ.

TZ is my grail pin, and will never be sold.

EDIT: I see you said ON.... all my B/W games with LEDs have it off. I will try it and see. Thanks!!

Just have to reverse one or more soldered on LEDs, no big deal

(sorry couldn’t resist)

(Actually, GI Dimming is on by factory default. At least in TZ. Can't speak for other games.)

Ive refurbed two TZs now. What a fun game to make new again. I kept one and sold one. It will always be in my collection. Always a favorite when I have friends over to play

My mistake!

Getting back into pinball since my recent full-time-job retirement. I need to replace a DMD so I have been considering the color DMD option. Now I see there is a decision to make between LCD and LED, so I took an interest in topic #3 where little was said except that "DotXL for best setting and most agree." I assume this is for the LCD DMD version because the LED option only has dots? I would appreciate any color DMD advice for someone that has only been playing golf in their free time for the last 15 years. Whereupon my return I must advise, for goodness sake take Seatmandan's advice: #1. remote battery holder!

Depends on how you want the game to look -

ColorDMD LED
Pros: looks more like an actual DMD - yes, dots only. They look real good, but only have really one setting, to change the brightness: LEDs are BRIGHT.

Cons: LEDs are bright. Significant reflection off the playfield glass unless you get one of those plastic blocker things (even anti-glare glass suffers)

ColorDMD LCD
Pros: different settings are fun to experiment with. Not everyone likes the “hi-res” setting but it looks good on certain games. DOTXL looks good on every game. Earlier titles don’t have as good a colouring job as later titles but all still look good. Also no glare at all on the playfield due to the way the panel is lit from the side instead of directly

Cons: bigger than a DMD, can be annoying to move and align when working in the backbox. Does not fit well on TAF or DW. (Or CV I think?)

Cons for both: pricey! Although the LED version is $30 or 40 less than LCD. Also if you have power issues they will Surfsce when adding a new panel due to the way they are powered (I.e. not from the DMD high voltage power chain)

With respect to cost, I like Neil's exception to expensive toys, because I have quite a few games that this display could be used in, so it might be a novelty to try in a few titles and see what games really benefit and qualify as a keeper worth the cost.

Also: Thanks for the info, I was searching Pinside using "color DMD" for info, but ended up wasting a lot of time not finding any specific information, just a lot of usage of the words. Found this recent post and asked for help, thanks.

I originally thought LED was best because is was bright, but it has been noted that the each LED dot could be a little bigger, so LCD has that advantage.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-lcd-versus-led

I did a lot of back and forth and decided on the LED version and I love it! Looks awesome! I do have a "bent plastic" style of glare guard and also Invisiglass on my TZ, so reflection isn't an issue.

I also put another LED Color DMD on my Independence Day with regular glass (still use a bent plastic) and it looks awesome on there as well!

You probably don’t need the bentplastic on the TZ - might be worth checking!

So, I thought I would share my adventure to fix the ever popular TZ clock.

Background. I traded last Saturday and met my "trader" halfway. It was a previously fully restored TZ, the biggest being a restore cabinet and new cleared playfield. When I got home, had to fix clock. It was disclosed clock was not working, but previous owner did not know how to fix.

Procedures. I coordinated help with two friends. With their help and advice, I did the following:
1. Connector to opto board looked distressed. It appeared someone had tried to pull the cable from the connector and tried to reseat it in hopes new wires would make better contact with the connector. However, the previous "cut" wires were never fixed or addressed. See picture. I "rebuilt" the connector with a new molex with 11 new wires which were then shrink wrapped. See pictures.
2. After fixing connector, I still could not get clock to fully work. Had some basic power to lights, but nothing really changed. I took clock out of my game and took to a friend who also has a TZ. We plugged in my clock and it worked 100%.
3. Based on #2, we surmised the issue was likely the 8 driver board. So, I had another friend with a spare 8 driver board and a new data cable. I changed out data cable and the driver board and now the clock works 100%. See picture of DMD time and the clock. Both read 6:22

It looks like the clock was rebuilt with a new board. I can't tell if it's an Ingo or rotten dog. But I did notice the motor board was replaced with a rotten dog as well.

So, that's my story to fix the clock. Everyone with a TZ will likely have to do something with the clock and it's worth it to having it work 100% since it's an integral part of the game.

60359377469__3DAC472B-9E66-45FE-A146-7BFC3F5CE802 (resized).jpeg

IMG_0354 (resized).jpeg

IMG_0360 (resized).jpeg

IMG_0365 (resized).jpeg

IMG_0366 (resized).jpeg

IMG_0368 (resized).jpeg

IMG_0371 (resized).jpeg

IMG_0392 (resized).jpeg

Topic: Playfield pitch.

Background. When I got this "restored" game, I noticed the ball traveled slowly. I assumed all I needed to do was adjust the levelers. After fixing the clock (see my previous post), I started to play some games and thought it was time to adjust the legs. Then, I noticed the back legs were already at their highest position and front legs lowest. I checked with a friend who has a TZ and his back legs are adjusted to medium height and has plenty of pitch for decent ball speed travel. Maybe since it was a fully restored game the owner used a different cabinet? Could that be the reason for the inability to adjust pitch to an acceptable height? See pictures of my levelers. See picture that shows distance from rear plastic ramp to top of glass channel. It's about 4 1/2 inches. A friend with a TZ says his is about 4 inches.

Options.
1. Leave as is.
2. Put some other leg devices like rubber feet that will raise a bit.
3. Do major surgery and adjust cabinet guides for the rear playfield area.

Anyone else experience this? See picture of pitch "bubble."

Thanks for any input.

IMG_0393 (resized).jpeg

IMG_0394 (resized).jpeg

IMG_0395 (resized).jpeg

IMG_0398 (resized).jpeg

Check that your cabinet has THREE holes for each leg. Assuming the inside leg brackets weren't changed out, verify that your back legs are in the bottom two, and front legs in the upper two.

Thanks. I hope that's the issue. If you are right, one beer.

Yep, was just about to post this. Common TZ confusion, I did it too

Well, I might have part of my answer. I found this from a previous posting when it was sold before me. Notice the leg protector. Looks like I would have to remove this if I wanted access to 3 holes, assuming there are. Will have to check inside the cabinet to see if that's even possible.

7fb3335899d17e1f0c7bd20ecec7ea5ad7e8b8ae (resized).jpeg

With regards to upgrading speakers in pre-DCS games. I have now done a pair of games using this guide: http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_replacement.html

Ive been pretty happy with the results.

When I get my TZ up and running again. I will be replacing the speaker in it as well. The biggest improvement for me with this setup is being able to control the bass.

This is a great mod - it requires a LOT of speaker wire but it is the exact same process used in Flipper Fidelity and (I think) PinballPro speaker setups. But far less expensive, and a fair bit more work. It is indeed key to being able to add bass!

That's pretty much exactly what I did with my TZ before I went with a Pinsound board and at that time I went true stereo and got rid of the subwoofer crossover and L-pad.

I did the 5 1/4" speaker upgrade for both backbox speakers and added a sub in the cabinet in place of OEM speaker.

I did the 5 1/4 too, they're tight enough as it is and cutting those holes are a PITA as it is...why do two for an extra 1/2" and have to move those T nuts and all...

Check your PF side rails to see if they are cracked/broken. this will cause the rear portion to sag. because the wooden side rails are covered in a black, wood grain shelf paper substance, you need to inspect them really closely. It’s the glued finger joints underneath that usually separate.

Thanks. Will check.