(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

6 years ago



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  • 7,941 posts
  • 594 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by Seatmandan
  • Topic is favorited by 321 Pinsiders

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There are 7941 posts in this topic. You are on page 158 of 159.
#7851 10 days ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Those big caps look to be a bit parabolic on the top. Time to replace them all. And the regulator definitely took some heat, possibly drifting from 5V. Bridges look like they've either been replaced or re-flowed.

You mean the 5 large cylinders?

#7852 10 days ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

Not sure which one is the 5v regulator.

look on the back of the board where its getting dark...from heat....those two large solder spots are the ones I'm referring to. That's your 5V regulator.

#7853 10 days ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Those big caps look to be a bit parabolic on the top. Time to replace them all.

Perhaps, but not before you reflow all the headers and budget for a replacement board. Those caps are hell to get out if you’re not an expert because the leads are spring-loaded against the holes for ease of installation. My 30 years soldering as a hobbyist wasn’t enough to keep me from wrecking the eyelet that connects one side of the circuit to the other. And I had the benefit of a shiny new desoldering station to play with.

#7854 10 days ago
Quoted from spblat:

Perhaps, but not before you reflow all the headers and budget for a replacement board. Those caps are hell to get out if you’re not an expert because the leads are spring-loaded against the holes for ease of installation. My 30 years soldering as a hobbyist wasn’t enough to keep me from wrecking the eyelet that connects one side of the circuit to the other. And I had the benefit of a shiny new desoldering station to play with.

I have to wonder if anyone can get them out without damaging the through hole. I never have, and like you, I have decades of soldering experience. I just suck it up and jumper the back of the board every time. I mean, it works and it’s hidden from sight.

And in my opinion, which is worth...well...if you’re going to replace the 5V regulator, use one of these. No heat, and it’s switching.

https://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/psu5.html#.Xhu0AcpOmhA

I did all sorts of upgrades to my STTNG board - new bridges, caps, regulator and headers. It’s rock solid now. Did random resets before. I never replaced the connectors, somewhere down the road as time permits...

#7855 10 days ago

Removing the large caps requires loads of patience and plenty of solder wick. And, a 100 watt soldering iron minimum. Or a Weller soldering gun as a backup.

You wick the solder out once the pad it fully heated and solder all melted, then you re-solder and do it again. Repeat until you can see daylight thru the plated hole. Wiggle the component until you see movement. Sometimes added heat along with non-stop wiggling will shake it loose.

Painstaking and long winded, but it does work. I've done it dozens and dozens of times over the years.

#7856 10 days ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

I have a complete door with coin mechs, button switch and harness available if you're looking for one. Has a chunk of the coin return bezel broken off, see images.[quoted image]

Thanks for the offer but I only need the coin mech/validator. Anyone know where I can get just that? Having trouble finding on Google.

#7857 10 days ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

Thanks for the offer but I only need the coin mech/validator. Anyone know where I can get just that? Having trouble finding on Google.

Ebay. Search for "Coin Mech" and you'll get lots of hits. You want the smaller, 3.5" ones. (That search will come up with a lot of other vending units too..)

#7858 10 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Ebay. Search for "Coin Mech" and you'll get lots of hits. You want the smaller, 3.5" ones. (That search will come up with a lot of other vending units too..)

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#7859 10 days ago

Hello TZ people,
I’ve got a new problem that hopefully someone has encountered, and knows a solution.
When I drain a ball, the game begins totaling up bonus points, stops, then goes back into game mode, shortly thereafter a ball search.
During ball search, the game then completes totaling bonus points, and the game continues normally. If I engage the flippers a few times before ball search begins, the scoring completes.
This is an intermittent problem, probably around 40% of the time.
I recently cleaned the playfield, adjusted a few switches, cleaned the ball diverters, etc.
I also went ahead, after the problem arose, and reseated the ribbon cables and connectors to the MPU. I checked the trough switches, and optos, and they tested good. I actually checked all the switches. At least the ones I could reach without removing plastics.
Batteries are on a remote location off the MPU. All the boards look perfect. No visible burnt connectors.
Thanks for any help on this.

#7860 10 days ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

Spoke to soon. Problem started again after playing 4-5 games.[quoted image]

Cracked header pin/s.
When after reseating the connectors the game works for a while and then stop again it would indicate a cracked header pin.
Anyway TZ is an old game with BR:s and Capacitors running on over time so changing them and resolder the pins is never a bad idea.

#7861 10 days ago
Quoted from Bestshore:

Hello TZ people,
I’ve got a new problem that hopefully someone has encountered, and knows a solution.
When I drain a ball, the game begins totaling up bonus points, stops, then goes back into game mode, shortly thereafter a ball search.
During ball search, the game then completes totaling bonus points, and the game continues normally. If I engage the flippers a few times before ball search begins, the scoring completes.
This is an intermittent problem, probably around 40% of the time.
I recently cleaned the playfield, adjusted a few switches, cleaned the ball diverters, etc.
I also went ahead, after the problem arose, and reseated the ribbon cables and connectors to the MPU. I checked the trough switches, and optos, and they tested good. I actually checked all the switches. At least the ones I could reach without removing plastics.
Batteries are on a remote location off the MPU. All the boards look perfect. No visible burnt connectors.
Thanks for any help on this.

Is the outhole kicker working 100% of the times?

#7862 10 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I agree! It was a selling point for me. I bought from Comet pinball

Hi there, how did you connect these lighted post under the miniplayfield ? Super beatiful! Congratulations!

#7863 10 days ago
Quoted from Giulio:

Hi there, how did you connect these lighted post under the miniplayfield ? Super beatiful! Congratulations!

Thank you! I connected them all to a couple 3 Way splitters and a set of alligator clips and attached to a GI.
Tucked wiring under the mini playfield. I had to remove mini playfield to put other LEDs in but you do not need to remove it for the assembly of the star post lights only.

#7864 10 days ago
Quoted from Giulio:

Hi there, how did you connect these lighted post under the miniplayfield ? Super beatiful! Congratulations!

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#7865 10 days ago

#Alby87
Yes the outhole is working 100%.

#7866 10 days ago
Quoted from Bestshore:

#Alby87
Yes the outhole is working 100%.

You have a bad switch, or a switch needs adjusting. Specifically, your Left Trough switch needs to be adjusted.

#7867 10 days ago
Quoted from Bestshore:

#Alby87
Yes the outhole is working 100%.

Also make sure the trough wire gate that prevent the balls from traveling backwards is intact. I was having similar issues and found my wire gate missing.

#7868 9 days ago

What is the best solution to get the batteries off the backboard?

#7869 9 days ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

What is the best solution to get the batteries off the backboard?

There are several solutions -
this guy:
https://www.pinballlife.com/remote-battery-holder-for-williamsbally-wpc-wpc-95-machines.html

but you can also just get something like this: amazon.com link »

and unsolder the battery holder, then solder in this replacement.

$20 for the above aint too bad for a plug and play solution though.

#7871 9 days ago

Has anyone got a TZ, with both the Pinbits Gumball light installed and a GI OCD?

If so, please see my post elsewhere: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/club-led-ocd-tips-tricks-thoughts-and-advice/page/14#post-5412004

#7872 8 days ago

Hard to believe it took me over 3 hours just to strip, polish, ultrasonic the parts, etc. this thing. Thought it’d take an hour, ha ha...

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#7873 8 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Hard to believe it took me over 3 hours just to strip, polish, ultrasonic the parts, etc. this thing. Thought it’d take an hour, ha ha...[quoted image]

Looks great, nice and shiny! Did you wax the mini PF too or just a Novus like polish?

I still need to pull mine to finish a LED swap, I'm paranoid that I'm going to break it. It's also planking pretty significantly, I might end up doing a swap on mine when I get a bit braver with attempting a full mini PF swap.

#7874 7 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Hard to believe it took me over 3 hours just to strip, polish, ultrasonic the parts, etc. this thing. Thought it’d take an hour, ha ha...[quoted image]

Gotta get those low profile switches now...

#7875 7 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Gotta get those low profile switches now...

Do you have low profile switches? I’ve never seen them. Please show if you have them. Thanks in advance

#7876 7 days ago

Thanks, I completely stripped the playfield, used novus and then a few coats of wax. I’m sticking with the original switch covers because, well, I’m on a budget. Trying to shop and rebuild TZ as cheaply as possible. Luckily, I had some flipper rebuild kits, a rubber set and LED set I bought a while back. So I haven’t spent much at all on it, other than a LOT of time....

#7877 7 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Do you have low profile switches? I’ve never seen them. Please show if you have them. Thanks in advance

http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/tzmpskit2.html

#7879 7 days ago

As I know they are not in the business... Since 2015.
A german source is available.

#7880 7 days ago

Almost done!

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#7881 7 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Almost done![quoted image]

Looks really good.

#7882 7 days ago

They look like this ...reach out to twister I purchased them from him
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#7883 7 days ago

Is twister (?) a supplier for these switches it did he just happen to have a spare GLM kit? As said above GLM are no longer in business sadly.

#7884 7 days ago

I got a set of switches from twister and a shadow upper playfield shroud thst he did in black nickel. Both are amazing. Buy with confidence.

#7885 7 days ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

I got a set of switches from twister and a shadow upper playfield shroud thst he did in black nickel. Both are amazing. Buy with confidence.

Ok, what's the shadow? Not sure I've seen that one...

#7886 7 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

They look like this ...reach out to twister I purchased them from him
[quoted image]

Wow! Looks nice and clean. Thanks! Nice Example if a modern updated TZ

-1
#7887 7 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Ok, what's the shadow? Not sure I've seen that one...

Bally "The Shadow" 1994 - one of my go-to favourite machines. Based off the movie starring Alec Baldwin (bit of a flop), which in turn was based off the comics of the same name.

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#7888 7 days ago

Hey I'm joining the club new owner. Last night i noticed my left ramp switch was intermittent. Sometimes wasn't starting multiball or enabling the lock. So it's the 2nd switch, not left ramp enter. I believe I found the correct switch on Marco. Anyone know what resistor I will need? I'm pretty new to the pinball repair, going to need to pick up soldering now too. Any tips? Looks like I'll have to be soldering over the playfield.

20200112_170945 (resized).jpg
#7889 7 days ago

Go to "switch test" and see if the switch is registering...test with the ball also not only with your finger.
No resitor on the switch but a diode. 1N4004 or similar...basically any standard diode will do the job

#7890 7 days ago
Quoted from misterman:

Anyone know what resistor I will need?

Pretty sure it's a diode, and not a resistor

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1N4004

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#7891 7 days ago

Thank you very much. Yes I tested by hand and with a ball. The switch has a lot of left to right wiggle in it, probably time for a new one.

#7892 7 days ago

More of a general question really, but relates to the mini playfield.. using that twister kit, or the GLM one, is it possible to wire up starpost LEDs to activate on the switch activation, rather than being always on via a connection to GI?

From what I can tell of those starpost LEDs its just a red and black wire, so I have no idea how that would functionally be wired to one of these switch kits to illuminate only when the switch is triggered?

#7893 7 days ago
Quoted from misterman:

Thank you very much. Yes I tested by hand and with a ball. The switch has a lot of left to right wiggle in it, probably time for a new one.

Left / right wiggle probably isn’t the switch. It could be that the switch arm is opened up too much where it attaches to the switch, or the switch screws are loose. A new switch won’t come with the switch arm. Worthy of checking first.

#7894 7 days ago

Also noteworthy, if you loosen the small screws that attach the switch to the bracket, you can adjust the angle of the switch which will effect when it’s activated. Often I’ve found that to be the problem with micro switches, poorly adjusted...

#7895 7 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

More of a general question really, but relates to the mini playfield.. using that twister kit, or the GLM one, is it possible to wire up starpost LEDs to activate on the switch activation, rather than being always on via a connection to GI?
From what I can tell of those starpost LEDs its just a red and black wire, so I have no idea how that would functionally be wired to one of these switch kits to illuminate only when the switch is triggered?

Twister's kit has an extra switch to operate a 2nd function, as you've described (1 switch to switch harness, 2nd switch for any mod). So it's just an easy connection to starpost light.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/129#post-4625780

#7896 7 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Also noteworthy, if you loosen the small screws that attach the switch to the bracket, you can adjust the angle of the switch which will effect when it’s activated. Often I’ve found that to be the problem with micro switches, poorly adjusted...

I agree with this. I have seen that the tiny buttons on the microswitch become gummed up, and start to not pop back out and make the audible "click" If that's the case, the switch WILL be intermittent, and no adjusting will fix it.

It's also possible that the 2 screws attaching the switch to the metal bracket are over-tightened. This will also cause the button under the wireform to not pop back out reliably.

#7897 7 days ago

RE: Resets

I had the problem on and off for a long time. Tried recapping the power board, reseating, etc. Many solutions seemed to work for a bit, but the problem would always come back. Hit both flippers and bam... reset. Eventually, I found the suggestion to eliminate the Z connector by soldering and the problem is now 100% gone. The Z connector gets jostled when you reseat or do any of the other changes and they can be brutal on the voltage drop from power to CPU board. No reason not to get rid of it.

FWIW, I also do recommend shopping the power board for general health of the game... 30 yo caps are just not going to be any good. My game never played better than when I did that... flipper strength was as good as new. A solid game starts with steady and strong power. Its like good heart health for your body.

#7898 7 days ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

I agree with this. I have seen that the tiny buttons on the microswitch become gummed up, and start to not pop back out and make the audible "click" If that's the case, the switch WILL be intermittent, and no adjusting will fix it.
It's also possible that the 2 screws attaching the switch to the metal bracket are over-tightened. This will also cause the button under the wireform to not pop back out reliably.

Good call, I’ve also seen overtightened screws that hindered the switch.

Honestly though, in all of my years collecting, I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a truly bad switch. But I’ve only owned a dozen or so games. I did proactively replace them all on my STTNG, but it had been heavily routed...

#7899 7 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Also noteworthy, if you loosen the small screws that attach the switch to the bracket, you can adjust the angle of the switch which will effect when it’s activated. Often I’ve found that to be the problem with micro switches, poorly adjusted...

I will look into this also thanks. Sometimes I would bottom out the switch and it wouldn't register, sometimes it would. Switch does have a weird bend to it though.

20200116_093050 (resized).jpg
#7900 7 days ago
Quoted from misterman:

I will look into this also thanks. Sometimes I would bottom out the switch and it wouldn't register, sometimes it would. Switch does have a weird bend to it though.[quoted image]

Well that would make me think it’s truly bad. You can remove it from the bracket, remove the switch arm and then test it again. If it’s still intermittent, most likely the switch is truly bad.

Yeah, if it were mine I’d fix the malformed arm..

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