Finally added LEDs. Looks like a different game

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Those mini playfield post lights are great!

I agree! It was a selling point for me. I bought from Comet pinball

I have a set of backbox side decals I bought a while back and never ended up using. PM me if interested

Nice. Did you put lights under all the star posts?

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/star-post-lights

Yes under all star posts on mini playfield. Lightens it up quite well. The link is above LOL

Did you use the cool white (natural) or sunlight?

Wow those posts look way better in the photos than I thought. They must look incredible in person

I made it. I didn’t like the zodiac stuff. Just not my thing(creepy stuff) So I was thinking the spirals would look good on it. I have some other cool ideas I haven’t made yet.

I used the Cometpinball.com Twilight zone Kit. It has some different whites in it. The price is hefty because TZ has so many bulbs

With all due respect, what’s creepy about the zodiac? Clock face looks great BTW

Pagans and witches use them to foretell things. Not going to condone it.

... Wow.

You do what you like in regards. I have no opinion on what you approve of. It’s your business.

Guys,

Just set up my new TZ. Received it yesterday. Played fine all afternoon but just recently it would just randomly shut off/reboot. I'm thinking it must be heat related because it has been on all afternoon but that really isn't anything for a pinball machine, right? Best I can tell is it just shuts off at random, not linked to any particular shot or time frame. I only allowed it to happen a couple times and then shut it down manually.

Don't know if it makes any difference but it is an early model. Build date is in 93 and it has the green lock and posts below the bumpers.

Thanks for the help.

Very common. 5v watch dog circuit kicking in. Either rebuild it or get the $30 chip mod. I’ll look up name of it

http://kahr.us/

Buy this. You don’t need the deluxe version. Follow the directions closely and carefully. No more resets.

That’s it! Works for me when I need one

Rob is the best. Buy the real deal.

What they said. ^^^^^

I left the machine off for a little while and when I turned it back on the game went straight into a reboot. Even without playing or using the flippers the machine just kept rebooting. Since I am not using any of the electronics do you still think the suggested fix is the way to go or something more serious?

Yes. It can happen anytime. Flippers or sitting in attract mode.

You could reseat all connectors but most likely you need the board fix

Reseating the connectors is a good idea. If you want to diagnose it further, measure the 5v level on the CPU board to verify you have a 5v issue.

If you know how to solder change BR2, bridge rectifier, and C5 filter capacitor and your game will 99% sure stop reset.
Might also be cracked pins at connector J101 but changing BR2 and C5 usually fix it.

Make sure you
Test though. You’ll be risking further damage to your game for no good reason if you attempt to replace the bridge rectifier and caps without checking if they are indeed the issue first.

Read this:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

While it may be the bridge and/or cap, there are a host of other things it can be too. Replacing the bridge almost always damages the board (in my experience). I always put jumpers on the board after that repair.

Thanks to all for the advice. Below is a video of what the machine is doing

It was starting then rebooting. Now it is simply making a "ticking" sound. My machine had entered the Twilight Zone.

I must be one of the "glass half empty" type people as I didn't believe that pulling the connectors and reseating them would make any difference. But it did. I pulled the board and when I reconnected everything it works again. Very happy about that.

It did give me a chance to inspect the CPU board too and I have to say. It looks beautiful.

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That would suggest a connector or grounding issue. Does the boards all have screws holding them in, and we’re they tightened?

I’d cut that battery holder off now, it was some damage. Add a remote battery holder or NVRAM. Note that NVRAM is difficult on that board.

Where do you live? Never know, might be someone local that can help if you’re not up to the tasks.

Spoke to soon. Problem started again after playing 4-5 games. I do have the Karh circuit coming so we will see if that helps.

While you pro's are helping me can you answer another question? My game is missing parts of the coin op mechanism and appears to be only a "free play" machine per the software. Is this the way they came or did someone strip out part of the coin mechanism? Running version 9.2

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Live on the MS Gulf Coast. Good poing on the battery holder. Plan to do that but was thinking NVRAM. Didn't know that it was an issue on TZ. Will go the remote battery holder way.

NVRAM on any WPC game is tough. Hard to get the old chip out without damaging the board. I just did my TZ, but I have a Hakko desoldering gun which helps a lot.

Too bad you aren’t closer, I’d enjoy helping. I’m in the process of a major shop job on mine, here’s where I’m at as of this morning. Going back together, but still a lot to go.

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Beautiful playfield. Did you do a swap or is that the original?

I cleaned the accessible parts on my PF when the machine arrived but intend to do a full shop. Was hopping to get some games in first though. Are you going LED?

I’m starting to suspect battery acid damage. You can’t always see it, and those battery contacts clearly had some acid on them.

Might be worth the $90 just to replace the MPU.

I don's see any evidence of damage but this is new to me. Is it something you would likely see on the board? The board looks clean and it great shape with no repairs. There is a little corrosion on the battery holder but not much.

It's the original playfield. I'm sure my game was routed for a while, but not super long. I've owned it for about 20 years. And I'll never sell it, often joke that I'll be buried in it some day....

Your game is missing the coin mechanisms. They snap into the frame of the coin door...I can get pics later if needed.

Where can you get a MPU for $90?

Honestly the plugging/unplugging of connectors makes me think it's not battery damage. I don't see any damage below the holder, which is typically where it starts. But who knows until you cut the holder off...

Believe it or not, that’s what actually made me think it IS battery damage. I had a game which was doing this exact same thing - and it turned out to be the MPU. I’d pull connectors and reseat them - it would play great for 5 or 6 plays, then reset. I’d pull connector, would play great, then fail.

Aah, sorry - I guess the MPUs Are more like $150 now.

I had periodic reset issues in my TNG. Reseating all the PDB connectors helped...for a while. I have a Kahr board and it wasn’t helping. Then I reflowed all of the PDB headers (
and fixed a couple of bad component solder joints along the way) and I seem to be golden without Kahr. Pinjim’s wiki link above is definitely recommended.

I have a complete door with coin mechs, button switch and harness available if you're looking for one. Has a chunk of the coin return bezel broken off, see images.

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EDIT Wrong inside pic. Here's the correct inside image:
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The 'coin mechs' are removed, and are easy to replace if you want to use quarters. A previous owner kept them, probably because they were special mechs for the tokens they used.

I believe 9.2 is standard ROM so you can select freeplay or coin-op.

Thanks again to all of you. I don't know how anyone would jump into this hobby without a resource like Pinside or a mentor in the business.

I went through the wiki link posted by PinJim and started at the beginning of the checklist. I pulled the power board to check it out and didn't see any issues with the solder so I put it back in and it is working again. Time will tell if these issue keeps popping up or not.

Looks like some board work was done in the past. Not sure though.

Now it's time to get LED's, new rubber, new legs and a few other items.

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Those big caps look to be a bit parabolic on the top. Time to replace them all. And the regulator definitely took some heat, possibly drifting from 5V. Bridges look like they've either been replaced or re-flowed.

Not sure which one is the 5v regulator.