(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

6 years ago



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  • 7,587 posts
  • 567 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by pinhead_jack
  • Topic is favorited by 303 Pinsiders

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There are 7587 posts in this topic. You are on page 152 of 152.
#7551 10 days ago

I rarely use the prop stick. I just lift it all the way up so its leaning on the backbox. Its definitely heavy

#7552 10 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Is it just me or do others feel my pain? Lifting the playfield on my TZ is challenging. It’s doable but takes some effort. I think it is just because it is a wide body and there is so much stuff mounted on the playfield. The playfield also likes to bind along the sides on the way up and down. For that reason I would never consider using art blades on this title. I always cringe when I use the playfield prop stick. Seems like it is being stressed to the limit. It is very rare that i can get the playfield to locked into place on the first try.

I use the support arm, but yeah... it always feel a bit precarious. all the widebodies seem to lean to one side - it undoubtedly puts stress on the playfield. I'm just now realizing, I have 7 games and 4 are widebodies. My 2 JJP games don't even have a support arm - maybe that's a sign.

#7553 10 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Lifting the playfield on my TZ is challenging.

Haven't noticed issues with mine. The toughest one I have is Data East Jurassic Park. No service rails. Tuff to get out and lift, and tuff to lower and shove back.

#7554 10 days ago

I never use the prop stick, especially not on TZ which is a heavy playfield. If you’ve ever tried to use it you can see it twist as it rests on it. I rest it on the rails or if I need to get underneath it gets propped up against the backbox.

#7555 10 days ago

I wanted to share details of the custom television set topper I've made for my TZ. It's constructed of 3/8" oak plywood and pine. The screen is a 10" LCD from an old netbook computer. The TV is running on a Raspberry Pi Zero and is running software from MP4Museum which loops a B&W TZ video file I've made with clips of the old episodes. Blue LED strips on the back door illuminate the silhouette when the lights are off.

I haven't decided whether it will be an actual topper or I'll just hang it on the wall. It is quite large and I'm not about to drill holes into my TZ to mount it. I've considered using neodymium magnets to keep it up there. Open to suggestions on that. Thanks!
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#7556 10 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

I wanted to share details of the custom television set topper I've made for my TZ. It's constructed of 3/8" oak plywood and pine. The screen is a 10" LCD from an old netbook computer. The TV is running on a Raspberry Pi Zero and is running software from MP4Museum which loops a B&W TZ video file I've made with clips of the old episodes. Blue LED strips on the back door illuminate the silhouette when the lights are off.
I haven't decided whether it will be an actual topper or I'll just hang it on the wall. It is quite large and I'm not about to drill holes into my TZ to mount it. I've considered using neodymium magnets to keep it up there. Open to suggestions on that. Thanks![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

awesome man!

#7557 10 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

I wanted to share details of the custom television set topper I've made for my TZ. It's constructed of 3/8" oak plywood and pine. The screen is a 10" LCD from an old netbook computer. The TV is running on a Raspberry Pi Zero and is running software from MP4Museum which loops a B&W TZ video file I've made with clips of the old episodes. Blue LED strips on the back door illuminate the silhouette when the lights are off.
I haven't decided whether it will be an actual topper or I'll just hang it on the wall. It is quite large and I'm not about to drill holes into my TZ to mount it. I've considered using neodymium magnets to keep it up there. Open to suggestions on that. Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That is fantastic! I think you’ve one-upped me:

Almost identical setup. Mine is loaded with twilight zone episodes, old horror film trailers and pinball promo videos!

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#7558 10 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

I wanted to share details of the custom television set topper I've made for my TZ. It's constructed of 3/8" oak plywood and pine. The screen is a 10" LCD from an old netbook computer. The TV is running on a Raspberry Pi Zero and is running software from MP4Museum which loops a B&W TZ video file I've made with clips of the old episodes. Blue LED strips on the back door illuminate the silhouette when the lights are off.
I haven't decided whether it will be an actual topper or I'll just hang it on the wall. It is quite large and I'm not about to drill holes into my TZ to mount it. I've considered using neodymium magnets to keep it up there. Open to suggestions on that. Thanks!

That is freaking awesome! Amazing job!

I've been trying to think of ideas for my own topper and considered something like this. Good to know it can look so good! I really wanted one of those slot machine toppers but dear LORD did those get overpriced.

#7559 9 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Is it just me or do others feel my pain? Lifting the playfield on my TZ is challenging. It’s doable but takes some effort. I think it is just because it is a wide body and there is so much stuff mounted on the playfield. The playfield also likes to bind along the sides on the way up and down. For that reason I would never consider using art blades on this title. I always cringe when I use the playfield prop stick. Seems like it is being stressed to the limit. It is very rare that i can get the playfield to locked into place on the first try.

I confirm this, for me, personally, it's really a pain too.
I got side art decals and it's really an effort to pull up the playfield straight without scratching them. I got to take extreme care each time, and got to try few times before playfield locks or I can pull it straight.
My prop stick also looks like being stressed to the limit and so I use another two I did made by myself, to keep playfield steady when lifted.

#7560 9 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Why did you hard wire them?
Those pop lights have a little screw adjustment on them. It’s probably turned down on yours

This was it. Ive used tons of these and I guess they have always just came adjusted to the maximum from the factory. I never even noticed the adjustment pot. Fixed. Thanks!

#7561 9 days ago
Quoted from McSquid:

This was it. Ive used tons of these and I guess they have always just came adjusted to the maximum from the factory. I never even noticed the adjustment pot. Fixed. Thanks!

Awesome!

#7562 8 days ago

Could anyone share the process of replacing the bulbs inside the clock? How much of taking it apart is involved? Photos would be great if anyone ever photo documented the replacement. Time to stick in some leds in there, finally.
Thanx

#7563 8 days ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Could anyone share the process of replacing the bulbs inside the clock? How much of taking it apart is involved? Photos would be great if anyone ever photo documented the replacement. Time to stick in some leds in there, finally.
Thanx

It’s not hard, about 6 screws. Lay down a towel, there are tiny parts which fly everywhere and which you will never find if they roll away.

(This is from memory)
Make a note of where the hands are! Take a photo! You need to replace them exactly the same way

Unscrew the clock housing from the piano hole area, and unscrew the clock from the front. Remove the small pin from the clock hand spindle. Remove the small hand and large hand. The clock face should be able to slide out now. This should give you access to the bulbs

#7564 8 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Make a note of where the hands are! Take a photo! You need to replace them exactly the same way

If you power up the game first, the hands should come to the 12 o'clock position. This makes putting the hands back soooo much easier.

#7565 8 days ago

I took apart my clock a year ago to clean everything. Its not as hard as it may look, just document each step with your camera and reverse when assembling again.

I had some gooey sticky grease that I removed at the same time (added some new grease that others recommended but cant remember the name) and the clock got quieter afterwards.

#7566 8 days ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Could anyone share the process of replacing the bulbs inside the clock? How much of taking it apart is involved? Photos would be great if anyone ever photo documented the replacement. Time to stick in some leds in there, finally.
Thanx

Here: the most 90s possible tutorial.

#7567 8 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I had some gooey sticky grease that I removed at the same time (added some new grease that others recommended but cant remember the name) and the clock got quieter afterwards.

Here's what I used:

amazon.com link »

Super Lube Synthetic Grease. As it is a synthetic, it won't do any harm to the plastic gears, and it really does quiet the clock down a great deal.

#7568 8 days ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Could anyone share the process of replacing the bulbs inside the clock? How much of taking it apart is involved? Photos would be great if anyone ever photo documented the replacement. Time to stick in some leds in there, finally.
Thanx

If you only want to change the origianl bulbs, mightbe, the installation guide for my clock board caan help you disassembling the clock, see here:

https://www.german-pinball-modular.de/tz-clock-instruction-english.html

#7569 8 days ago

Thanx so much everyone, I’ll be sure to follow the guidelines . Much appreciated.

#7570 8 days ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Thanx so much everyone, I’ll be sure to follow the guidelines . Much appreciated.

And just buy Ingo’s clock board please. That will save you all the trouble. LEDs? Yes. Fixes opto clock hand issue.? Yes. Different led colors available? Yes. Works with LEDOCD? LITERALLY THE ONLY MOD WHICH DOES.

#7571 8 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

And just buy Ingo’s clock board please. That will save you all the trouble. LEDs? Yes. Fixes opto clock hand issue.? Yes. Different led colors available? Yes. Works with LEDOCD? LITERALLY THE ONLY MOD WHICH DOES.

I second this. Just cut to the chase and get this; it will eliminate sooo many clock problems.

#7572 8 days ago

Thirded! I don’t know what clock boards I bought 10 years ago but the original boards aren’t worth keeping given the available alternatives.

#7573 8 days ago

+1

Get Ingo’s clock board, rebuild the clock and you won’t have to do it again.

Also +1 on Super Lube on the gear teeth, I also used a drop of sewing machine oil on the shafts. Made a massive difference to the noise the clock made, and has been running fine for months.

Before lube+oil:

After lube+oil:

Assembling the clock is easier than the instructions make it sound. I would definitely recommend taking the whole thing out of the machine and taking it apart on a towel or something. As has been said there are several tiny parts including E clips that will fly off if not careful.

The key thing is to make sure the gears intersect each other at the correct points. I wrote a mini guide here:
https://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/today-i-worked-on.39368/post-252882

(Sorry to link off site)

Hope that helps!

#7574 7 days ago

That being said, after shopping the TZ I found (~3yrs ago), I just cleaned up the clock connections, oiled the gears, and replaced the little burned out bulbs with LEDS, and my clock is working since.

No opto has an infinite life, but my originals should be fine for home use, however I did swap my flipper opto boards for new since I didn't want to wonder if they were causing any weak flipper issue, after experiencing one bad one.

#7575 7 days ago

I like the clock noise.

#7576 7 days ago

My restoration is finally complete! Thanks to everyone in this group who helped me out with my never ending questions and photo requests in the past months!

Final post with finished product image dump:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-restoration-2/page/2#post-5248966

Shot for shot before and after gallery:
https://imgur.com/gallery/Kc4ovOp

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#7577 7 days ago

Looks great. That flying streaming rig is interesting. It must be tricky with the bundle of cords.

#7578 7 days ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Looks great. That flying streaming rig is interesting. It must be tricky with the bundle of cords.

The cable setup isn't bad. Kind of like gen one HTC vive. Doesn't get in the way for the most part.

#7579 4 days ago

I purchased a TZ without a clock, if anyone has a spare lying around they would like to sell let me know. Can't wait to get this up and running.

#7580 4 days ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

I purchased a TZ without a clock, if anyone has a spare lying around they would like to sell let me know. Can't wait to get this up and running.

Clock isn't needed for game to function. Don't bother waiting to fix/play while trying to source your clock.

#7581 4 days ago

I disagree with the majority about replacing the clock board. You can easily wire 555 LEDs to the old board. Why replace something that is functional and easily modded?

#7582 4 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

I haven't decided whether it will be an actual topper or I'll just hang it on the wall. It is quite large and I'm not about to drill holes into my TZ to mount it. I've considered using neodymium magnets to keep it up there. Open to suggestions on that. Thanks!

Industrial velcro works very well for attaching toppers.

#7583 4 days ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

I disagree with the majority about replacing the clock board. You can easily wire 555 LEDs to the old board. Why replace something that is functional and easily modded?

I got a used boardset, wired 4 LED strips directly to the board, replaced one opto, and am now done. It can indeed be done.

#7584 3 days ago

I just replaced my original clock board set with an ingo board. The original boards are clean but the hour optos were not registering. I'll sell them cheap if anyone needs them.

#7585 3 days ago

Hello TZ Owners,

I have a TZ project I am working on which is made up of a bunch of parts but is also very incomplete. I am trying to collect enough parts to really take it on as a restoration project. That said, I wanted to reach out to see if anyone has any spare parts that you may want to get rid of or if you know of a source for the following.

Specifically I am hunting down the following at this time:
1) Twilight Zone Apron
2) Mini-inside wire chute assembly (by gumball) - A-16058
3) Right wire chute assembly (By shooter lane) - A-16056
4) Center Deflector (piano) - 01-11063
5) Small subway chute from skill shot to main subway - 03-8826
6) The mini playfield front support bar assembly
7) Some of the ball guides (the really long one that wraps around the playfield A-16796 is missing, many others are very rusty)
8 ) Any of the lamp boards (I may end up just using lamp sockets)

I have been looking for a parts machine or partial playfield, but I just have not had any luck so far. So I am searching web sites and owners to see what I can uncover. Thanks for reading and I hope to see you in the zone soon!

#7587 3 days ago

Thank you Parker_TZ! I ordered the shooter gate.

- The switch plate is actually out of stock but I think I can find the parts I need at Marco.
- I saw that apron a bit ago but I am holding hope for an original. I just like the original with scorecards better. But maybe I won't have a choice!
- I will look at the lamp boards and see if I can find some that look right.

Thanks again!

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