(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

6 years ago



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  • 8,212 posts
  • 604 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 minutes ago by Seatmandan
  • Topic is favorited by 324 Pinsiders

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There are 8212 posts in this topic. You are on page 150 of 165.
#7451 5 months ago
Quoted from Parker_tz:

Does any one have cabinet decals I want to restore my cabinet. And don’t want to spend 250 for decals

C'mon. It's a TZ! Spare no expense!

#7452 5 months ago
Quoted from Parker_tz:

Does any one have cabinet decals I want to restore my cabinet. And don’t want to spend 250 for decals

I can ship for $249

#7454 5 months ago

Still looking for lower right and left side cabinet decals..

#7456 5 months ago

Go to ipdb.org, search your game and find the manual as pdf. Find the piece in the manual and Google its part number and you usually find some stores having it.

#7457 5 months ago
Quoted from Parker_tz:

Does any one have cabinet decals I want to restore my cabinet. And don’t want to spend 250 for decals

https://pinballdecals.eu/shop/twilight-zone-pinball-cabinet-decals-set/?currency=USD

$214 shipped.

#7458 5 months ago

I know this is on the specific side but does anyone have any photos of the wiring for the left/main/plastic ramp? Doesn't have to be super detailed, Id mostly just like to know the factory wiring paths so I can recreate it as close as possible. Bonus points of course for connectors and wire colors. I haven't checked yet to see if those are detailed in the manual like the board connections.

#7459 5 months ago
Quoted from McSquid:

I know this is on the specific side but does anyone have any photos of the wiring for the left/main/plastic ramp? Doesn't have to be super detailed, Id mostly just like to know the factory wiring paths so I can recreate it as close as possible. Bonus points of course for connectors and wire colors. I haven't checked yet to see if those are detailed in the manual like the board connections.

Let me know if you need any others

14909302-DAB9-4559-89C2-DDD613AAF437 (resized).jpeg33A1179D-FE0A-4D62-B216-BE8E5E246A95 (resized).jpeg47F74ED6-7415-48EA-B44F-33132EB50BD8 (resized).jpeg594B0675-84B6-44C0-BB0F-E99CEE983AC6 (resized).jpeg62A4C3AA-2496-483E-A859-BFDD7999DF25 (resized).jpeg7CBCA105-B89E-44A8-A208-C5C53742D08B (resized).jpeg
#7460 5 months ago

I haven’t seen this board in other twilight zone machines and just curious if somebody could tell me what it is used for?

25450F34-E341-4E53-BBC0-51C2A4A0F329 (resized).jpeg
#7461 5 months ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I haven’t seen this board in other twilight zone machines and just curious if somebody could tell me what it is used for?[quoted image]

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/williams-bally-pinball-dmd-high-power-1886273007

#7462 5 months ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I haven’t seen this board in other twilight zone machines and just curious if somebody could tell me what it is used for?[quoted image]

Ya, it's a "piggy" board to provide the high power to the DMD when the high power fails on the DMD controller board. It's a plug and play fix....

#7463 5 months ago

LED question: should I be using actual red LEDs under the red inserts? I’ve tried both warm and cool white LEDs but both just give a sort of washed out look that doesn’t do the inserts justice. Thoughts?

#7464 5 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

LED question: should I be using actual red LEDs under the red inserts? I’ve tried both warm and cool white LEDs but both just give a sort of washed out look that doesn’t do the inserts justice. Thoughts?

I always color match my inserts but use white for my yellow and orange inserts. I’ve used white for reds, blues and greens before but like color matched better. I also use frosted domed LEDs but that’s personal preference

#7465 5 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

LED question: should I be using actual red LEDs under the red inserts? I’ve tried both warm and cool white LEDs but both just give a sort of washed out look that doesn’t do the inserts justice. Thoughts?

Try it. Red are not as bright as white, but you can also try less bright white ones. Frosted is a good idea if using white. Skip yellow and orange LEDs altogether, they do not produce enough light to be worthwhile

#7466 5 months ago

I color match my inserts to the color of the inserts and have found cool white the best for yellow inserts and pink for orange. I agree orange and yellow just don't provide enough brightness. I also use frosted LEDs on the top of the playfield. This let's the LEDs not glare back at you so much during playing the game.

#7467 5 months ago

Orange bendies are bright enough. I color match most, and if I can’t, warm white frosted all the way. TBH, warm white frosted across an entire older machine looks stock but brighter to me. Cool white can look good on modern game, but I think it looks like garbage on older machines that were made with tungsten. It can be a big annoying swap when I add an older machine to the line.

#7468 5 months ago

Thank you all for the LED info! I’ll try out some of the suggested matches and let you know what I think.

#7469 4 months ago

Keep in mind, guys..

There are two different colors of red inserts in the game. You'll lose this small color change by using colored LEDs.

#7470 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Keep in mind, guys..
There are two different colors of red inserts in the game. You'll lose this small color change by using colored LEDs.

So there's the door red, and then a different red for the outlanes and Extra Ball?

#7471 4 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

LED question: should I be using actual red LEDs under the red inserts? I’ve tried both warm and cool white LEDs but both just give a sort of washed out look that doesn’t do the inserts justice. Thoughts?

i use frosted 'sunlight' whites under every insert - that way you preserve the original insert colour perfectly and every bulb has the same brightness and attack/decay characteristics (with LED OCD). I will use coloured bulbs in places above the playfield though, like the piano Red/Yellow and the Slot machine.

A lot easier when ordering bulbs too!

#7472 4 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

So there's the door red, and then a different red for the outlanes and Extra Ball?

Yuppers!
The Special is a darker, richer red. The door panels are a little more lighter. (I'm no color expert, I don't know the actual terms used to describe it....)

#7473 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yuppers!
The Special is a darker, richer red. The door panels are a little more lighter. (I'm no color expert, I don't know the actual terms used to describe it....)

Left to right:
Amber
Light Red
Red

Insert (resized).JPG
#7474 4 months ago

Can anyone tell me where these plastics go? Can't seem to find them in any pictures out there.

The only small clear one I was able to figure out was on the ball gate by the rocket.

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#7475 4 months ago

The 3 others are not used.

#7476 4 months ago

Is the bigger square one not used?

#7478 4 months ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Is the bigger square one not used?

My game only uses the small one near the ball gate.

#7480 4 months ago

Welcome back with another account yet again ALEXSMENDES

#7481 4 months ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Is the bigger square one not used?

Not used.

#7482 4 months ago

Hello. Anyone had this issue?

Please help me. I was putting side blades on my Twilight Zone and when I fired it back up to start a game, the upper left (piano shot) flipper stays energized. You have to start a game to get it to stay up, not just power on. Also in coil test all flipper functions work, but the hold test of the upper left does nothing.

By reading another thread I'm taking it is less likely a transistor issue, and more mechanical? I lean that way since I had the playfield gyrating to get the inner artwork on and I may have bumped something. Please see the photo below, but everything seems good to me.

Thanks!

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#7483 4 months ago

It's hard to tell from the picture but is your lamp socket base/tab/wire touching the top of the flipper coil bracket? While I'm not sure if that would cause the problem you're seeing, it could cause other issues if it is touching. I'd look at moving the lamp socket away from the top of that coil.

#7484 4 months ago
Quoted from Homebru:

Hello. Anyone had this issue?
Please help me. I was putting side blades on my Twilight Zone and when I fired it back up to start a game, the upper left (piano shot) flipper stays energized. You have to start a game to get it to stay up, not just power on. Also in coil test all flipper functions work, but the hold test of the upper left does nothing.
By reading another thread I'm taking it is less likely a transistor issue, and more mechanical? I lean that way since I had the playfield gyrating to get the inner artwork on and I may have bumped something. Please see the photo below, but everything seems good to me.
Thanks![quoted image]

Sounds like it was shorted to me. I believe the hold voltage is the middle connection on the coil. I'd reflow that for starters. So it doesn't stay on in test mode? It could be the little transistor that's gone. I'd suggest consulting pinwiki.

#7485 4 months ago

Thanks. I will look to make sure the lamp socket is not close.

I got it behaving again. A little reseating of the opto board/blade/button play did it. Thanks for your insights!

#7486 4 months ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Is the bigger square one not used?

It WAS the left "Spiral" sign, which was removed from prototype/early sample games.

#7487 4 months ago

Hi all. I have a question about the pinbits? Gumball light. It has both red/white leds with a 4 position plug with red/black and 2 yellow. I picked up the mod and it did not have instructions. I have played around with diff wire connections but was curious if someone knows the preferred placement of the connection wires under the playfield. Thanks

#7488 4 months ago
Quoted from Binger:

Hi all. I have a question about the pinbits? Gumball light. It has both red/white leds with a 4 position plug with red/black and 2 yellow. I picked up the mod and it did not have instructions. I have played around with diff wire connections but was curious if someone knows the preferred placement of the connection wires under the playfield. Thanks

I know they have directions on the site... which seems to be down. I reached out to them tho, hopefully that will be addressed soonly.

It’s been so long since I installed mine I wouldn’t even know what to tell you.

#7489 4 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

I know they have directions on the site... which seems to be down. I reached out to them tho, hopefully that will be addressed soonly.
It’s been so long since I installed mine I wouldn’t even know what to tell you.

Site is up for me.
http://www.iobium.com/installing_the_gumball_lamp_boar.htm

If it is down in the future this should work:
https://web.archive.org/web/20190830033420/http://www.iobium.com/installing_the_gumball_lamp_boar.htm

#7491 4 months ago

Does anyone have a picture of the wiring for the 3 standup targets surrounding the piano? I don't feel like I have enough wires coming out of the harness. I have a broken yellow wire that doesn't seem to have a home though...

#7492 4 months ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Does anyone have a picture of the wiring for the 3 standup targets surrounding the piano? I don't feel like I have enough wires coming out of the harness. I have a broken yellow wire that doesn't seem to have a home though...

Let me know if you need any better pictures. This should be the yellow and two red targets.

Yellow target has 2 Green w/blue stripe to one side. 2 white w/yellow stripe to the other.
Red target #1 has 2 Green 2/blue stripe to one side. 2 white w/green stripe to the other.
Red target #2 has basically two yellow jumpers to Red target #1 (one wire to each)

20190930_153409 (resized).jpg20190930_153425 (resized).jpg

#7493 4 months ago

Oh OK so the two red targets are sharing logic? That explains it all perfectly. Thanks!

#7494 4 months ago

Both red targets are the "Power Payoff" targets - wired in parallel. (Hit either target, get Power Payoff award when lit.)

#7495 4 months ago

Thanks to those that offered help on the pinbits gumball wiring.

I am finally stumped. After hours of reading threads and research, I have to ask for some insight here. The issue is with clock.... here is where we are at:
Ingo opto board
All optos check out ok per led’s/cleaned
Clock does run... motor board drives clock forward.
Connector on bottom of clock not broken... has continuity back to plug.
All boards serviced recently by Clive @ COC

In test mode the clock just runs forward. Using +/- buttons does not slow down or change direction of clock. In fact dmd says clock not running— yet it is. Optos are not registering to change the time.

My gut says we are back to some sort of board/connection issue in backbox. All boards were serviced by Coin op Cauldron recently. I checked all ribbons etc.

Anyone seen this before or have any ideas? I thought the Path of Adventure on IJ was an infuriating toy.... this thing takes the prize.
Thanks
N

#7496 4 months ago

Hi everyone,
Strange departure from my recent list of never ending "where does this go" questions as I finish off my restore:

So I had noticed a while back when playing emulated TZ (pinball arcade, VP) that the jackpot sound effect was just... wrong? It didn't match my memory of playing TZ as a kid. I figured it was because of the emulation and because its not original hardware, and I suppose this could still be the explanation. Ive only recently gotten my TZ to the point where it can be playtested. I was not too shocked to find out that my game too plays the "wrong" jackpot sound. (since it is running a pinsound board, although with the original sound pack)

Here is how the original sounded that my brain wants to hear:


And here is the emulated sound and my game:


Since I'm lucky enough to have a pinsound board, In theory I can just find or create a recording of the correct sound and make my game use it. so here is the question:

Is this a result of emulation, or was the official sound changed in a ROM revision? I could see where it might be as there is a much higher potential for distortion in the original.
If its a rom revision, does anyone know when the switch was made? and for the game trivia buff in me, why?

I can definitely do my own research on this one but I figured I'd ask in case someone knows the answer. Really hoping for ROM revision because otherwise getting a good enough recording of the original is going to be difficult.

#7498 4 months ago
Quoted from Binger:

In test mode the clock just runs forward. Using +/- buttons does not slow down or change direction of clock. In fact dmd says clock not running— yet it is. Optos are not registering to change the time.

The motor and clock optos have nothing in common, except they share the same connector on the power driver board. Maybe your connector is off by a pin or in the wrong spot? Actually the manual mentions they go the "8-Driver board in the backbox" so check connections there too.

Regarding motor forward/reverse -

Quote:
The clock is operated through a D.C. Motor Control Board, pt #A-16120, (located UNDER the playfield at approximately the same position as the clock) and solenoid drives 42 and 43 (located on the 8-Driver Board in the backbox). With only drive 43 turned ON, the clock moves forward. With only drive 42 turned ON, the clock moves in reverse. With both drives ON, or both drives OFF, the clock is stopped.

You can see the motor driver board on page 3-22 of the manual and DIR/1 and DIR/2 signals go to diodes D2 and D3 (the side of the diode with the line), so you could use a meter and check those in test mode to see if they are working as described above or not. (one on and the other off for forward and swapped for reverse)

#7499 4 months ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Hi everyone,
Strange departure from my recent list of never ending "where does this go" questions as I finish off my restore:
So I had noticed a while back when playing emulated TZ (pinball arcade, VP) that the jackpot sound effect was just... wrong? It didn't match my memory of playing TZ as a kid. I figured it was because of the emulation and because its not original hardware, and I suppose this could still be the explanation. Ive only recently gotten my TZ to the point where it can be playtested. I was not too shocked to find out that my game too plays the "wrong" jackpot sound. (since it is running a pinsound board, although with the original sound pack)
Here is how the original sounded that my brain wants to hear:

And here is the emulated sound and my game:

Since I'm lucky enough to have a pinsound board, In theory I can just find or create a recording of the correct sound and make my game use it. so here is the question:
Is this a result of emulation, or was the official sound changed in a ROM revision? I could see where it might be as there is a much higher potential for distortion in the original.
If its a rom revision, does anyone know when the switch was made? and for the game trivia buff in me, why?
I can definitely do my own research on this one but I figured I'd ask in case someone knows the answer. Really hoping for ROM revision because otherwise getting a good enough recording of the original is going to be difficult.

I've never heard your Jackpot sound before. (Or if I have, it's been SOO LONG that I just can't remember. I'm not a fan of it, honestly.)
Can you pull ALL your Sound ROMS and send me copy of each, so I can compare code/checksums?

#7500 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I've never heard your Jackpot sound before. (Or if I have, it's been SOO LONG that I just can't remember. I'm not a fan of it, honestly.)
Can you pull ALL your Sound ROMS and send me copy of each, so I can compare code/checksums?

as I said I'm using a Pinsound board so I don't have any actual ROMS. I'm using the original and reorchestrated packs available here:
https://www.pinsound.org/pinballs/wpc-alpha-dmd/twilight-zone/

Not sure where the original pack was dumped from.

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