(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

6 years ago



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  • 7,450 posts
  • 560 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Parker_tz
  • Topic is favorited by 300 Pinsiders

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There are 7450 posts in this topic. You are on page 149 of 149.
#7401 16 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

ebay.com link » Nos Bally Twilight Zone Pinball Tz Clock Assembly A 16124

$500 seems a bit much for the clock.

#7403 16 days ago

Ahhh! True...if I find one I’ll let you know.

#7404 16 days ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

$500 seems a bit much for the clock.

I thought that too, but honestly by the time you’re done piecing one together out of parts I don’t think the money you’d save would be worth the hassle. Looking over that parts list it was like $200 before you decided on a clock board (Ingo) or had to find/fashion the mounting bracket, wiring harness and line up the hardware.

The only other hope is maybe someone has a used working or a rebuildable unit?

Luckily the clock isn’t gameplay essential, so if you decided to forego it you’re not ruining the game or anything.

#7405 16 days ago

Check with Dangerdann he sold me a clock a while back and had another one I think.

#7406 15 days ago
Quoted from NibbyNub:

I'm excited. The game is fully functioning. I havent found a single bulb out yet. I need to fix a couple things that cause fly balls and replace a few worn pieces. I believe that I have a first production. I have the white clock face, posts in town square, green lock and the dates of manufacture are April 20 1993.
Are we keeping these machines as stock as possible or can I tear into it and go LED everything and start my upgrades. I'm fine either way because it's never leaving my house.

Congrats! If I remember correctly, my TZ was built the same date of yours... so cheers! Just out of curiosity, your "shoot gumball" sign is screened or is a sticker? Mine is screened, but I'm pretty sure it was changed over the life of my pinball machine, so maybe your may help me to know if I'm right or wrong
And your original rom revision was L-5?

Piece of advice: I really like the stock aspect of the pinball. The only cosmetic mod I did to mine was the gumballs inside the gumball machine, then it's prisitine factory

#7408 8 days ago

Hello there, as pinside members give community infinite wisdom and knowledge, I do post a problem that happened to my TZ recently, hoping someone could give me suggestions.
My TZ, 100% working, started to have a lower right flipper problem.
That flipper, and not the upper right one, does not stay up when I push the flipper button. It makes a fast slap back to rest position, after a second brief try to stay up. The upper one stays firmly up.
I briefly checked fliptronic board on the backbox, and no fuses gone, I reseated connectors. Then I checked flipper mechanism and everything seem visually fine, no broken pieces and the coil seems fine, coil sleeve is fine and flipper mechanism under the playfield moves smoothly. When I push and keep pushed the button the coil fires up and then comes back, does not stay on. Then I decided to clean the flipper opto board switch. I cleaned well the opto and reassembled. Same problem. Any suggestions? A friend told me to "tune" the flipper opto board switch, is it possible? But if the flipper opto switch board would be the problem, why the upper right flipper works fine? Do I have to measure voltage somewhere or check something else? Many thanks.

#7409 8 days ago

Does it fire with full power when it goes up, or only slowly?

#7410 8 days ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Does it fire with full power when it goes up, or only slowly?

Hello, it fires with full power, I can play with no issues except I does not stay up but drops in rest position.
Thanks

#7411 8 days ago

I had a similar problem as my lower right flipper would work sometimes, but very weak. I found out the issue was the small opto board on the inside of the cabinet behind the flipper buttons. I first tried switching the two boards (left to right and right to left) to see if the problem moved. It did and caused other issues with the left and right flippers. I just replaced the boards as they are not too expensive and my problem went away. Hope this helps.

#7412 8 days ago

Just joined the club.

#7413 8 days ago
Quoted from Giulio:

Hello, it fires with full power, I can play with no issues except I does not stay up but drops in rest position.
Thanks

Your flipper HOLD winding is broken. Either the winding itself, or the Hold wire leading to the coil. Check it out, compare it against the manual. If everything LOOKS good, then the break is IN the coil, and you'll need another coil (unlikely, but possible).

#7414 8 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Your flipper HOLD winding is broken. Either the winding itself, or the Hold wire leading to the coil. Check it out, compare it against the manual. If everything LOOKS good, then the break is IN the coil, and you'll need another coil (unlikely, but possible).

Ok, fine so I'll do a fast test with opto boards exchanging them and check manual about hold wire to the coil, looking for differences, is there a way to clearly identify hold wire to the coil in TZ (noob question I know)? Thanks_

#7415 8 days ago
Quoted from Giulio:

Ok, fine so I'll do a fast test with opto boards exchanging them and check manual about hold wire to the coil, looking for differences, is there a way to clearly identify hold wire to the coil in TZ (noob question I know)? Thanks_

The wire in the game wiring will be listed in the manual. (At work now, can't pull manual up to check!) While looking at the coil spool, it will be the lug with ONE thinner leads to it, not the single thicker lead or dual (thin & thick) leads.

#7416 7 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

The wire in the game wiring will be listed in the manual. (At work now, can't pull manual up to check!) While looking at the coil spool, it will be the lug with ONE thinner leads to it, not the single thicker lead or dual (thin & thick) leads.

Thanks! I briefly looked this morning and in fact I see a thin wire loose from one side of the coil and not being attached/soldered anywhere, just hanging there. I'll check with diagram where it must be connected and I'ill try.

#7417 7 days ago

Can someone take a picture of their power input connector that goes from the power in/aux/switch box to their transformer? Mine looks like it's been (poorly) worked on on the box end and only has 2 of the 9 pins populated. Is this connection supposed to have loopbacks for more surface contact?

FJIMG_20190910_173539 (resized).jpgFJIMG_20190910_173557 (resized).jpg
#7418 7 days ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Can someone take a picture of their power input connector that goes from the power in/aux/switch box to their transformer? Mine looks like it's been (poorly) worked on on the box end and only has 2 of the 9 pins populated. Is this connection supposed to have loopbacks for more surface contact?[quoted image][quoted image]

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#7419 6 days ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Can someone take a picture of their power input connector that goes from the power in/aux/switch box to their transformer? Mine looks like it's been (poorly) worked on on the box end and only has 2 of the 9 pins populated. Is this connection supposed to have loopbacks for more surface contact?[quoted image][quoted image]

It depends what voltage your country has, as to which loopbacks are required. The front page of the WPC schematics manual has the different pin connections required for the different voltages they supported at the time

#7420 6 days ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Can someone take a picture of their power input connector that goes from the power in/aux/switch box to their transformer? Mine looks like it's been (poorly) worked on on the box end and only has 2 of the 9 pins populated. Is this connection supposed to have loopbacks for more surface contact?[quoted image][quoted image]

Refer to the WPC Schematics Manual (16-9743-1), Page #1 (page 3 of the PDF). On the center of the page it will show you the different jumpering you can use for your selected voltage.

#7421 5 days ago
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#7422 3 days ago

In the midst of my first under ramp cleaning, is this plastic supposed to be bent like this?
20190913_193728 (resized).jpg

#7423 3 days ago
Quoted from Barr993:

In the midst of my first under ramp cleaning, is this plastic supposed to be bent like this?
[quoted image]

I added a picture of mine below

#7424 3 days ago

Is the front post too long then?

#7425 3 days ago
Quoted from Barr993:

In the midst of my first under ramp cleaning, is this plastic supposed to be bent like this?
[quoted image]

Mine was exactly the same, the 2 spacers that the plastic is screwed through are different lengths, so either the plastic sits up on an angle was was bent to that shape. I do wonder whether it was changed through production, so interested to see what spacers other found when they stripped their game?

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#7426 3 days ago
Quoted from Barr993:

In the midst of my first under ramp cleaning, is this plastic supposed to be bent like this?
[quoted image]

Quoted from Manny65:

Mine was exactly the same, the 2 spacers that the plastic is screwed through are different lengths, so either the plastic sits up on an angle was was bent to that shape. I do wonder whether it was changed through production, so interested to see what spacers other found when they stripped their game?[quoted image]

Nope, it is designed that way on purpose. If a ball flies in between the two ramps, this lift will cause the ball to roll back to the Gumball hole. Without it, the ball will get trapped between the two ramps.

Speaking from experience. I lost my longer spacer and put a normal one in there - I now (occasionally) get an airball in there stuck. Argh.

#7427 3 days ago

It is possible to reboot my friend’s TZ when hitting both flippers at the same time, but oddly enough this only happens after you first turn it on. To me, it seems like a cap issue, but I don’t know which one.

After 2-3 minutes it is impossible to reboot in this way.

Any ideas?

#7428 3 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

It is possible to reboot my friend’s TZ when hitting both flippers at the same time, but oddly enough this only happens after you first turn it on. To me, it seems like a cap issue, but I don’t know which one.
After 2-3 minutes it is impossible to reboot in this way.
Any ideas?

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Failed_Thermistor

That’s the most likely cause if I read that page correctly, but there are many reasons why a WPC game like this might reset. Replacing a thermistor can be very dangerous. Be sure that someone with experience not being electrocuted is involved in the process.

#7429 3 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

It is possible to reboot my friend’s TZ when hitting both flippers at the same time, but oddly enough this only happens after you first turn it on. To me, it seems like a cap issue, but I don’t know which one.
After 2-3 minutes it is impossible to reboot in this way.
Any ideas?

Sounds like a 5v reset - the MPU has a watchdog circuit that will trigger a reset of the machine if the 5v line drops too far below spec. Quite often you see this when both flippers are pressed at the same time. This can occur at random times. There is plenty of info around on troubleshooting 5v reset issues - http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets but the first thing I'd do is re-seat the connectors J101, J102, J114 on the power driver board and J210 on the MPU board

http://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html also makes a workaround for the 5v issue which can be useful as a temporary fix.

#7430 3 days ago
Quoted from Barr993:

In the midst of my first under ramp cleaning, is this plastic supposed to be bent like this?
[quoted image]

Are there any GI bulbs under there? It's quite possible it's simply warped through extended periods of being heated up.

#7431 3 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

It is possible to reboot my friend’s TZ when hitting both flippers at the same time, but oddly enough this only happens after you first turn it on. To me, it seems like a cap issue, but I don’t know which one.
After 2-3 minutes it is impossible to reboot in this way.
Any ideas?

I had this problem with a Road Show. For me it turned out to be a cracked solder joint on one of the flipper coil lugs. Reflowing the solder worked for me. Might be an easy thing for your friend to rule out.

#7432 3 days ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

mine seems slightly bent but not that much

20190914_085036 (resized).jpg
#7433 3 days ago
Quoted from Barr993:

In the midst of my first under ramp cleaning, is this plastic supposed to be bent like this?
[quoted image]

Definitely bent for the reason that Coyote mentioned. Ball can get stuck.

#7434 3 days ago
Quoted from sagejr:

Definitely bent for the reason that Coyote mentioned. Ball can get stuck.

I actually NEED one of these longer posts. Anyone have the measurement of it?

I AM sick of my balls getting stuck there. (My diverter sometimes likes to pretend it's CV Ringmaster, and throw balls.

#7435 3 days ago

Looks to be 1-1/2" tall.

20190914_133014 (resized).jpg
#7436 2 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I actually NEED one of these longer posts. Anyone have the measurement of it?
I AM sick of my balls getting stuck there. (My diverter sometimes likes to pretend it's CV Ringmaster, and throw balls.

My machine is stripped and yes it 1-1/2"

#7437 2 days ago

Thanks guys! Will get one on order.

#7438 2 days ago

I thought maybe I would try again for some assistance in this thread and hope it gets more visibility:

Hello. I bought a TZ with a "Clock Is Broken." The clock had the OEM boards replaced (not sure of make...haven't taken it apart yet, but LEDs in a ring). It appears the A-16120 driver board has been replaced too (homepin.com).

I'm hoping someone can help me decide a direction based on symptoms:

- Credit dot error: Clock is broken 
- Does not run/move during startup or gameplay 
- Clock test entry it spins backwards only 
- Pressing the test buttons on the driver board it does run forward and backward.

I've tried the basic of reseating all connections. I thought perhaps the piano mod may have wiggled bottom of clock connex loose.

I know Twilight Zone clock repair threads are everywhere, I'm just hoping someone has had a similar issue and will chime in. I've read many, and I'm not sure whether it is driver or clock boards.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Chris

#7439 2 days ago

Is the clock turned off in the featured adjustments area?

#7440 2 days ago
Quoted from Giulio:

Thanks! I briefly looked this morning and in fact I see a thin wire loose from one side of the coil and not being attached/soldered anywhere, just hanging there. I'll check with diagram where it must be connected and I'ill try.

Many kudos to Coyote. Finally I had time to fix and indeed it was the coil hold wire that was desoldered and hangin’ there. Flipper now holds up strong and firmly again. And I see why, the coil was mounted the wrong way so the terminals are on the coil stop side and more prone to break. I’ll fix this too. Many thanks again, this is what I call pinside wisdom.

#7441 2 days ago
Quoted from Homebru:

I thought maybe I would try again for some assistance in this thread and hope it gets more visibility:
Hello. I bought a TZ with a "Clock Is Broken." The clock had the OEM boards replaced (not sure of make...haven't taken it apart yet, but LEDs in a ring). It appears the A-16120 driver board has been replaced too (homepin.com).
I'm hoping someone can help me decide a direction based on symptoms:
- Credit dot error: Clock is broken 
- Does not run/move during startup or gameplay 
- Clock test entry it spins backwards only 
- Pressing the test buttons on the driver board it does run forward and backward.
I've tried the basic of reseating all connections. I thought perhaps the piano mod may have wiggled bottom of clock connex loose.
I know Twilight Zone clock repair threads are everywhere, I'm just hoping someone has had a similar issue and will chime in. I've read many, and I'm not sure whether it is driver or clock boards.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Chris

Like mentioned in MANY of those same threads, you need to -
(1) Test the continuity of the two driver wires leading to the clock motor board. You should get each one pulsing to ground when the clock test is running in forward or reverse.
(2) If you get pulses to ground in those tests, then manually tie each of the pins on the clock motor board that the driver wires connect to, to ground. When you do, you should get the clock running full force forward or backwards.

If #1 doesn't give you the results expected, then the issue is either on the PDB or the wiring between the clock board (your testing points) and the power drive board. If #1 gives you what you expect, and #2 does not, then the problem is in the motor control board. If both work, then you're in the Twilight Zone.

#7442 2 days ago

Thank you Coyote. I will try those 2.

Chris

#7443 2 days ago

The clock base is sold on Australian pinball parts if you want to by it to make a clock assembly https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/01-11337.html

Quoted from jjoravec:

$500 seems a bit much for the clock.

#7444 1 day ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Sounds like a 5v reset - the MPU has a watchdog circuit that will trigger a reset of the machine if the 5v line drops too far below spec. Quite often you see this when both flippers are pressed at the same time. This can occur at random times. There is plenty of info around on troubleshooting 5v reset issues - http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets but the first thing I'd do is re-seat the connectors J101, J102, J114 on the power driver board and J210 on the MPU board
http://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html also makes a workaround for the 5v issue which can be useful as a temporary fix.

Does that still make sense if it is no longer possible to reset after a few minutes of being on? I thought it might be a cap issue because of that. I experienced something similar on an older game.

#7445 1 day ago
Quoted from sagejr:

I had this problem with a Road Show. For me it turned out to be a cracked solder joint on one of the flipper coil lugs. Reflowing the solder worked for me. Might be an easy thing for your friend to rule out.

Good call, I’ll check that.

#7446 1 day ago

Contemplating a refresh on my TZ. Anyone have cabinet decals for sale? Full or partial set? Also looking for a speaker panel.

#7447 16 hours ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Does that still make sense if it is no longer possible to reset after a few minutes of being on? I thought it might be a cap issue because of that. I experienced something similar on an older game.

There are many reasons why the 5v can drop below spec and cause the reset, which are all covered by http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets - "If the game is resetting only within the first minute or two, and plays fine after that, skip to Step 8, Failed Thermistor."

#7448 9 hours ago
Quoted from sagejr:

Contemplating a refresh on my TZ. Anyone have cabinet decals for sale? Full or partial set? Also looking for a speaker panel.

https://pinballdecals.eu/shop/twilight-zone-pinball-cabinet-decals-set/
I bought these ^ they are great.

I also have a used speaker panel plastic Id sell you. PM me if interested.

#7449 4 hours ago
Quoted from sagejr:

Contemplating a refresh on my TZ. Anyone have cabinet decals for sale? Full or partial set? Also looking for a speaker panel.

Make it all b/w! I'm about to buy a b/w translite for mine....

#7450 1 hour ago

Does any one have cabinet decals I want to restore my cabinet. And don’t want to send 250 for decals

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