(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 9 days ago by Tranquilize
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There are 7761 posts in this topic. You are on page 147 of 156.
#7301 5 months ago

Yeah. I went all out.

#7302 5 months ago
Quoted from PinballT:

Yeah. I went all out.

Cool, have fun!

#7303 4 months ago
Quoted from brett:

Thanks Lior, the building mod looks great.[quoted image]

That mod looks and works great. I did a video install and overview of the CourtHouse mod on my TZ. It replaces the flat plastic on the left hand side of the playfield.

Blog Post :
https://pinballsupernova.wordpress.com/2019/07/11/mods-install-and-overview-of-mezel-mods-mods-afm-tz-and-iron-maiden-spotlight-mod-tz-lighted-courthouse-video-install/

YouTube Video :

#7304 4 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

There's several different Robby and at least two TV mods. Without seeing the cabling it's almost impossible to know how it connects up.

Sorry for the delay, I was on holiday! I post some pics of my mods, they only have black and red crocodile on both!

20190720_190118 (resized).jpg20190720_190155 (resized).jpg
#7305 4 months ago
Quoted from JFink8222:

So out of the blue yesterday my TZ decided to start power cycling while playing. Shortly during the first ball it just shuts off and restarts. I’ve read about the Z connector and reseating all of the connectors. Any other fixes anyone can recommend? It doesn’t seem to be flipper related.

Did you get this sorted? If not, as stated, check your 5v on the board. If it's below 5 at all, I'd recommend reading

this page- as it will describe the 5v issue and will give you a link to a regulator with an adjustment pot, a must-have replacement.

Also, I can't remember which wires, but there is a molex looped power connector on the right side of the board, if I remember correctly, which can cause resets if the wires are have come loose from the connector. I had both issues. First the 5v. Replaced the adjustable regulator and all was fine. Then the wires came loose. I just pressed the loops into the connector (they are the slide-in style), and all was back to normal.

If your 5v is 5+v and your wiring looks fine, "help me pinwiki, you're my only hope."

#7306 4 months ago

Is there a good option for the trough eddy board/sensor? I'm working on another TZ and this one has already been hacked to bits.

#7307 4 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Did you get this sorted? If not, as stated, check your 5v on the board. If it's below 5 at all, I'd recommend reading

this page- as it will describe the 5v issue and will give you a link to a regulator with an adjustment pot, a must-have replacement.
Also, I can't remember which wires, but there is a molex looped power connector on the right side of the board, if I remember correctly, which can cause resets if the wires are have come loose from the connector. I had both issues. First the 5v. Replaced the adjustable regulator and all was fine. Then the wires came loose. I just pressed the loops into the connector (they are the slide-in style), and all was back to normal.
If your 5v is 5+v and your wiring looks fine, "help me pinwiki, you're my only hope."

Haven’t had time yet. I’ll begin troubleshooting next week. In San Diego so trying to enjoy the beautiful weather before I head home to Phoenix where it’s 110! Thanks for all the recommendations. I will post after I troubleshoot

#7308 4 months ago
Quoted from cocomonkeh:

Is there a good option for the trough eddy board/sensor? I'm working on another TZ and this one has already been hacked to bits.

Tangles has both the trough and subway eddy sensor boards available

http://tanglestech.com/Twilight-Zone--Trough-Proximity-Eddy-Sensor--Replaces-A-16534-and-A-16528-Switch-26_p_36.html

http://tanglestech.com/Twilight-Zone--Subway-Proximity-Eddy-Sensor_p_35.html

#7309 4 months ago

Thanks I might have to go that route. I’m not finding anything in the states.

#7310 4 months ago

resets are usually a connection problem.

#7311 4 months ago

Hey, can someone help me out. I read through this whole post and saw a post for a expansion board for all the added mods you add to the TZ. It separates them from your driver board. I didn't write down. Can someone redirect me to where to purchase one from.
Thanks

#7312 4 months ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Hey, can someone help me out. I read through this whole post and saw a post for a expansion board for all the added mods you add to the TZ. It separates them from your driver board. I didn't write down. Can someone redirect me to where to purchase one from.
Thanks

Not really an expansion board, but this was the one I had my eye on if you didn't want it drawing power from an already overloaded machine.

https://www.rockcustompinball.com/product-page/game-on-power-supply

Cheers,
Mike

#7313 4 months ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Hey, can someone help me out. I read through this whole post and saw a post for a expansion board for all the added mods you add to the TZ. It separates them from your driver board. I didn't write down. Can someone redirect me to where to purchase one from.
Thanks

Might have been my post here?

The one I've got provides 12v and 5v to mods that would normally plug into the power driver board using the standard 3-pin connectors. It is wired to the transformer so it comes on when the game is switched on. applejuice is the guy that sells it, his website is https://www.mypinballs.com

I'm very happy with mine. Even though I only have about 3 mods plugged into it currently (including ColorDMD), I'm glad the power draw is removed from the main board.

#7314 4 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Might have been my post
here?
The one I've got provides 12v and 5v to mods that would normally plug into the power driver board using the standard 3-pin connectors. It is wired to the transformer so it comes on when the game is switched on.
applejuice is the guy that sells it, his website is
https://www.mypinballs.co.uk
I'm very happy with mine. Even though I only have about 3 mods plugged into it currently (including ColorDMD), I'm glad the power draw is removed from the main board.

Looks like he's changed his URL - it's now https://mypinballs.com

The "Mod Power Expander Board for WPC and WPC-95 Games" is listed in his store https://mypinballs.com/electronics/store.jsp

#7315 4 months ago

Cheers, have amended post. To be honest I had assumed it was that because he's in the UK, and didn't have time to check this morning.

#7316 4 months ago

Yes, mypinballs expansion board is the one I am looking for. Appreciate everyone's help.

#7317 4 months ago

quick question ... My clock on my TZ is some kind of early repro I believe. I got it working, and to read all of the optos correctly, but once the clock mode in the actual game starts, it quits working correctly, and the top opto becomes stuck on the minute hand. After taking the clock apart, it will work again until the in-game mode. My question is if this is a typical issue with the clock board, and if it's something that will likely be fixed with Ingo's replacement clock board?

#7318 4 months ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

quick question ... My clock on my TZ is some kind of early repro I believe. I got it working, and to read all of the optos correctly, but once the clock mode in the actual game starts, it quits working correctly, and the top opto becomes stuck on the minute hand. After taking the clock apart, it will work again until the in-game mode. My question is if this is a typical issue with the clock board, and if it's something that will likely be fixed with Ingo's replacement clock board?

I've had similar issues with my original clock board, where I'd get it to work temporarily, but then it would act up again shortly into a game.

Ingo's board will definitely fix any issues you might have. I put mine in over a year ago and haven't had a problem since.

#7319 4 months ago
Quoted from Scotty_K:

I've had similar issues with my original clock board, where I'd get it to work temporarily, but then it would act up again shortly into a game.
Ingo's board will definitely fix any issues you might have. I put mine in over a year ago and haven't had a problem since.

Same thing here. Mine will work/pass the initial test at boot up and then fails during game play. I've had the ingo board in a box for a few months, just haven't gotten around to installing it.

#7320 4 months ago

Anyone get the clock broken error with Ingo's board? I get it now and then but error goes away. Clock seems to work fine so not sure if that is just a TZ thing.

#7321 4 months ago

Thanks for the insight into this. I feel pretty comfortable that will take care of my issue, so just purchased one of his boards. Seems like the most frustrating problem by far. Will be nice to take care of it once and for all.

#7322 4 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Anyone get the clock broken error with Ingo's board? I get it now and then but error goes away. Clock seems to work fine so not sure if that is just a TZ thing.

Ingo's clock is a must , besides that, did you check if the hands are not warped?
When warped or loose it does not always close the opto, giving intermittent errors.

#7323 4 months ago

Oops, NM! Thanks all!

#7324 4 months ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Ingo's clock is a must , besides that, did you check if the hands are not warped?
When warped or loose it does not always close the opto, giving intermittent errors.

Don't think so. I did just take it apart to replace another flaky opto on the clock board. Second time that has happened.

#7325 4 months ago

Im sure its hacked, but can anyone identify this connector? Or is this the random hanging yellow wire?

20190723_205150_HDR (resized).jpg
#7326 4 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Don't think so. I did just take it apart to replace another flaky opto on the clock board. Second time that has happened.

Oops, that should not happen. You are one of the very few who reports such a "problem".

What optos did you have to change? One on the bottom- or top side of the board?

I have used more than 10000 Optos TCST1103 in the last 15 years, and very very seldom an opto failed, these are very reliable. Mightbe, we had a bad charge of a few optos.

If that should happen again, we will change your board on my costs. Simply send me PM then!!!!

#7327 4 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Anyone get the clock broken error with Ingo's board? I get it now and then but error goes away. Clock seems to work fine so not sure if that is just a TZ thing.

My white, Ingo clock board was broken right out of the box. Clock Broken error, could NOT get it to work. I must have received a bad board from him..It's now a decoration in my restore shop

I have a Rottendog in there currently, which works perfectly, as did the original board that came with the game. Never an error.

#7328 4 months ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

My white, Ingo clock board was broken right out of the box. Clock Broken error, could NOT get it to work. I must have received a bad board from him..It's now a decoration in my restore shop
I have a Rottendog in there currently, which works perfectly, as did the original board that came with the game. Never an error.

Did you contact german-pinball to get it resolved?

I bought a white clock board, which worked out of the box *shrug*

#7329 4 months ago
Quoted from german-pinball:

Oops, that should not happen. You are one of the very few who reports such a "problem".
What optos did you have to change? One on the bottom- or top side of the board?
I have used more than 10000 Optos TCST1103 in the last 15 years, and very very seldom an opto failed, these are very reliable. Mightbe, we had a bad charge of a few optos.
If that should happen again, we will change your board on my costs. Simply send me PM then!!!!

Appreciate that. I don't recall the clock ever not working but have seen the clock broken error message a handful of times. The last led to have a problem is the top right one. I can't remember which one it was before. They start to flicker and then go out but come back on once in a while. I have extra spares from what you sent me last time so I am all good for now. If another goes out, I will send you a PM.

#7330 4 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

The last led to have a problem is the top right one. I can't remember which one it was before.

Ahh LED go out, first post you mentioned opto ... makes sense now

#7331 4 months ago

When my clock is broken (Caspar board) it’s usually the connectors. I need to get around to repinning them

#7332 4 months ago

I had the error with the flickering led also on the same board.

Had to take it apart and change all of the LEDs, as the ones I had lying around was a little different color temperature than those already in the board. Actually turned out even better than the original replacement board LEDs, as the color temperature (warm white to go with my original incandescent GI) and spread is near perfect. Makes the clock seem pretty evenly lit, and not as if it is from the 4 corners. So although it was really annoying having to change the led in a pretty new replacement board, at least it turned out alright

#7333 4 months ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Sorry for the delay, I was on holiday! I post some pics of my mods, they only have black and red crocodile on both![quoted image][quoted image]

I was able to contact the maker of these mod and he told me to connect robby to the GI and the tv to a 5v source under the pf (he suggested c2 on clock motor board)..these are the first mod I'm installing so I'm a total noob..based on your experience:
1) I have to worry about polarity when connecting to a gi lamp?
2) is there a better option to gain 5v from under the pf ? I am a bit worried about connecting those 2 crocodile clips to a tiny capacitor..

Thank you!!

#7334 4 months ago

Anyone have a spare lamp board A-16514? For the inserts near the slot machine entrance?

Never buying a game that's incomplete again. I suppose if I can't find this one I can replace it with lamp sockets. Plenty of room in that area. Anyone have a good picture of one that would let me trace the pins?

Screenshot_20190725-235540 (resized).png

#7335 4 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Did you get this sorted? If not, as stated, check your 5v on the board. If it's below 5 at all, I'd recommend reading

this page- as it will describe the 5v issue and will give you a link to a regulator with an adjustment pot, a must-have replacement.
Also, I can't remember which wires, but there is a molex looped power connector on the right side of the board, if I remember correctly, which can cause resets if the wires are have come loose from the connector. I had both issues. First the 5v. Replaced the adjustable regulator and all was fine. Then the wires came loose. I just pressed the loops into the connector (they are the slide-in style), and all was back to normal.
If your 5v is 5+v and your wiring looks fine, "help me pinwiki, you're my only hope."

So yesterday I had an hour or so to tinker with my TZ. I pulled off every connector in the backbox and re-seated them all. Nothing burnt and all looked good. After re-seating them all, turned the game on and played perfect. I’ve played about 10 games so far with no issue. I’m sure it will pop up again, especially given this game is original from the early 90’s. But for now, I have an awesome game room with Pinbot, Cyclone, Twilight Zone, Sopranos (currently listed for sale), guardians, ghostbusters, monster bash and newly added Iron Maiden Premium. I’m sitting pretty. Wife says room for 2 more!! LOL

#7336 4 months ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Anyone have a spare lamp board A-16514? For the inserts near the slot machine entrance?
Never buying a game that's incomplete again. I suppose if I can't find this one I can replace it with lamp sockets. Plenty of room in that area. Anyone have a good picture of one that would let me trace the pins?
[quoted image]

arakissun maybe?

#7337 4 months ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Anyone have a spare lamp board A-16514? For the inserts near the slot machine entrance?

Probably best to start a "want to buy" thread, and someone with parts machines may see it.

I did a search for 5768-13496-00 and found the same lamp board is used on BSD, so mention that in your WTB thread.

#7338 4 months ago
Quoted from JFink8222:

So yesterday I had an hour or so to tinker with my TZ. I pulled off every connector in the backbox and re-seated them all. Nothing burnt and all looked good. After re-seating them all, turned the game on and played perfect. I’ve played about 10 games so far with no issue. I’m sure it will pop up again, especially given this game is original from the early 90’s. But for now, I have an awesome game room with Pinbot, Cyclone, Twilight Zone, Sopranos (currently listed for sale), guardians, ghostbusters, monster bash and newly added Iron Maiden Premium. I’m sitting pretty. Wife says room for 2 more!! LOL

I can almost guarantee it's that right side looped wire connector. Can't remember exactly which one, but once I reseated the looped wires into the connector, my problem (non-5v problem) went away. If it comes back, check those. Glad to see you're up and running. Too good of game to have not working.

#7339 4 months ago

Hello guys, another problem on my reassembling I can't wait to play it!! Do anyone else had problem on the installation of the switch mod on the mini playfield? Like these:

http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/index.html?http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/tz_mpsk.html

I have to adjust both the side brackets all the way to the outsides, any other position would keep the switches always closed :/ the problem is that in this way they won't let the playfield mounting brackets to fit on them hope it is understandable (look at the pics)..do you have any suggestions? Am I doing something wrong? I'm using 2" rubbers as stated on the manual..maybe another size is needed? please help! Thanks

20190728_231323 (resized).jpg20190728_231757 (resized).jpg20190728_231807 (resized).jpg20190728_231933 (resized).jpg20190728_232810 (resized).jpg
#7340 4 months ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

Im sure its hacked, but can anyone identify this connector? Or is this the random hanging yellow wire?[quoted image]

Thats factory. Nobody really knows why it was done that way. My theory is the first run of harnesses needed that yellow wire a bit longer so they spliced in a bit with whatever they had on hand which was that connector. Then from there it got replicated.

#7341 4 months ago

Could anyone with a working interlock/coin door switch be able to check the wiring?

My switch was heavily damaged when I received the game, and I've bought a replacement - but it never gives me the warning message.

I'm running the 9.4H rom, but I'd think that wouldnt matter.

I'm running the green/brown wire to the top ON pin, and the white/red to the bottom COM pin.

Thanks in advance

#7342 4 months ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

Could anyone with a working interlock/coin door switch be able to check the wiring?
My switch was heavily damaged when I received the game, and I've bought a replacement - but it never gives me the warning message.
I'm running the 9.4H rom, but I'd think that wouldnt matter.
I'm running the green/brown wire to the top ON pin, and the white/red to the bottom COM pin.
Thanks in advance

TZ's firmware never gave the Interlock Warning message. You're fine.

#7343 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

TZ's firmware never gave the Interlock Warning message. You're fine.

Ah good to know, thanks!
Dumb question, but is there a way to tell without melting my face off?

#7344 4 months ago

Is pinball life the only place to get 545 bulbs?

#7345 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

TZ's firmware never gave the Interlock Warning message. You're fine.

Really? Wow ... I thought I had the same issue, so no interlock message by default, me too I did not know this was a TZ feature by design.

#7346 4 months ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

Is pinball life the only place to get 545 bulbs?

Someone on Ebay has been selling them for a while, but you have to buy 100 at a time:

ebay.com link » 100 Oem Ge 545 Miniature Pinball Lamp Light Bulb Blinker Insert Wedge Base 21003

#7347 4 months ago

Thanks for the heads up! Looks like he sells them in sets of 10 as well for 10 bucks. ebay.com link

Quoted from Scotty_K:

Someone on Ebay has been selling them for a while, but you have to buy 100 at a time:
ebay.com link » 100 Oem Ge 545 Miniature Pinball Lamp Light Bulb Blinker Insert Wedge Base 21003

#7348 4 months ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

Ah good to know, thanks!
Dumb question, but is there a way to tell without melting my face off?

Reason I ask, the flippers still function with the coin door open.

#7349 4 months ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

Reason I ask, the flippers still function with the coin door open.

Not really a 'feature', but.. TZ was the first game to have the interlock, and the idea for the warning message hadn't come to fruition yet. Ted didn't add it in v9.4H, (I believe, if memory serves me right), because he didn't want to waste the ROM space for adding something none of us would really need.

#7350 4 months ago

I got mine for a very very decent price and it has been shopped al the way. I always wanted a TZ and is my number one pin and now I got a gem.
Some pics of the restauration: (i added the third magnet myself by the way).

TZ022 (resized).jpgTZ023 (resized).jpgTZ028 (resized).jpgTZ029 (resized).jpgTZ039 (resized).jpgTZ040 (resized).jpgTZ041 (resized).jpgTZ054 (resized).jpgTZ055 (resized).jpgTZ056 (resized).jpgTZ057 (resized).jpgTZ058 (resized).jpgTZ059 (resized).jpg
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