(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

6 years ago



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There are 7605 posts in this topic. You are on page 144 of 153.
#7151 4 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

By any chance did you have info on purchasing a bracket for proximity trough sensor?

I believe Marco has them

#7152 4 months ago

There plenty of inexpensive chip pullers on Amazon as well. Does not need to be fancy, just looks like a big pair of tweezers.

#7153 4 months ago

Personally I have had worse luck with chip pullers than simply going carefully with a small flat screwdriver.

#7154 4 months ago

And make sure you actually get the pins of the new chips in the holes before you push it down. It's actually easy to push it down thinking that the pins are in the socket holes, but are actually over the edge of the socket.

Again, this is what I did with my TAF, as I didn't remove the boards from the backbox to do it, so I was already reaching uncomfortably.

Made a horrible buzzing noise when I turned it on, but no damage done.

#7155 4 months ago

Chip pullers can be a total pain and most of the time the cheap ones will result in bent or broken rom pins.
IF you decide to go small screwdriver route be very careful not to put the head of the screwdriver in too deep, you will end up scratching, damaging or ruining traces.

#7156 4 months ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

NOTE: When you remove the chip, pay attention to the notch on one end of the chip. INSERT THE NEW CHIP IN THE SAME EXACT WAY.
Since the chip is concentric, you can easily put it in backwards, which will result in smoking the chip and permanent damage.
Always note where that notch is, and insert the new chip with the notch on the same side. Normally, the silk screening on the PC board shows the direction of that notch. Also, the socket that the chip is inserted into will have its own notch on one end only. And usually all other socketed chips lie on the PC board in the same direction with notches all on the same ends.
Read the above twice so you understand that doing it wrong will destroy the new chip.

Were you at the showdown last weekend? My wife and I flew in from Ohio to attend

#7157 4 months ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

Chip pullers can be a total pain and most of the time the cheap ones will result in bent or broken rom pins.
IF you decide to go small screwdriver route be very careful not to put the head of the screwdriver in too deep, you will end up scratching, damaging or ruining traces.

Maybe I’ll leave it in. I wanted to swap ROMs between my two TZ because I am selling one of them. I can’t the one with 9.5H update to preform score save and for some reason it drives me nuts lol

#7158 4 months ago

Pulling ROMs isn’t that difficult. I’ve always used a small flat head screwdriver, working one end, then the other end, switching ends as I lift it a little at a time until the chip pops out. Never broke off a leg of damaged a board....

#7159 4 months ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Pulling ROMs isn’t that difficult. I’ve always used a small flat head screwdriver, working one end, then the other end, switching ends as I lift it a little at a time until the chip pops out. Never broke off a leg of damaged a board....

This. You have to go REAL slow and light on that first end - sometimes the chips can hang on tight, but as long as you don’t push too hard it should come out clean

#7160 4 months ago

Ok..... So now that I have the insight on how important it is to go very very slow and controlled, I think I’ll give a try. I have a couple other repairs I want make first before I do it. I’ll let ya know how it goes when I do it. Thanks for all the help. It is very much appreciated

#7161 4 months ago

Has anyone seen this mod before?

60DC3E76-0003-4C1B-AA77-58041CA1CC6C (resized).jpeg
#7162 4 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Has anyone seen this mod before?[quoted image]

Yup, that’s an older style rocket mod. Pretty common as far as TZ mods go.

#7163 4 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Yup, that’s an older style rocket mod. Pretty common as far as TZ mods go.

Cool... curious. Hadn’t seen one around here

#7164 4 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Ok..... So now that I have the insight on how important it is to go very very slow and controlled, I think I’ll give a try. I have a couple other repairs I want make first before I do it. I’ll let ya know how it goes when I do it. Thanks for all the help. It is very much appreciated

Not sure if you burn your own or not, but I can do B/W roms. Also like said above...I find the screwdriver method better than the chip pullers.
Here's a video I did on my JP...about 1:29 shows actual chip removal but it went quicker than I remember lol.

Just make sure to keep the screwdriver shaft more level and do the work with twisting side to side working your way down the chip. Bigger chips like tz may help to get it started and then switch to the other side.

#7165 4 months ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

Not sure if you burn your own or not, but I can do B/W roms. Also like said above...I find the screwdriver method better than the chip pullers.
Here's a video I did on my JP...about 1:29 shows actual chip removal but it went quicker than I remember lol.
Just make sure to keep the screwdriver shaft more level and do the work with twisting side to side working your way down the chip. Bigger chips like tz may help to get it started and then switch to the other side.

Thanks Matt!

1 week later
#7166 4 months ago

Good Day,

I have an early sample TZ (production 4/5/93). The prior owner installed the 3rd magnet and optos however never hooked up the optos. I realize there are instructions when converting a production game and adding a 3rd magnet but there are the hook ups for the sample games. I was under the impression that the wiring is there. I do have two wires with connections (orange/black in the general vicinity). Any help would be appreciated. I looked all over pinside and dont see instructions.

Thanks!

#7167 4 months ago
Quoted from Pinphila:

Good Day,
I have an early sample TZ (production 4/5/93). The prior owner installed the 3rd magnet and optos however never hooked up the optos. I realize there are instructions when converting a production game and adding a 3rd magnet but there are the hook ups for the sample games. I was under the impression that the wiring is there. I do have two wires with connections (orange/black in the general vicinity). Any help would be appreciated. I looked all over pinside and dont see instructions.
Thanks!

Oh man, I similarly looked for this for weeks when I was hooking mine up. Make sure you actually have the optos and not just the cutouts in the metal - I have seen games where the holes are there but no optos..

anyway - start here:

http://www.iobium.com/third_magnet_project.htm

#7168 4 months ago

Is there a way to clear out the default high scores so I can keep track of mine. It seems as though it won’t give me a chance to put my initials in even if I have beaten one of the high scores. I am urgently running the 9.4h rom.

#7169 4 months ago

I had the same high score issue on 9.4H. My guess is the problem was one of the preset grand champion scores was less than the next highest score and that screwed it all up. I changed all of the preset scores starting at 50M in 50M increments up to the grand champion for both non-buy-in and buy-in scores then did a high score reset. Works as it should now.

#7170 4 months ago
Quoted from Pinphila:

Good Day,
I have an early sample TZ (production 4/5/93). The prior owner installed the 3rd magnet and optos however never hooked up the optos. I realize there are instructions when converting a production game and adding a 3rd magnet but there are the hook ups for the sample games. I was under the impression that the wiring is there. I do have two wires with connections (orange/black in the general vicinity). Any help would be appreciated. I looked all over pinside and dont see instructions.
Thanks!

If your game is that early, you should have all the wiring-harness wires you need. If the optos were installed correctly, they should end in matching plugs - literally all you have to do is .. plug them in.

I don't have my game handy, but you will either find 2 2-pin connectors or 1 4-pin connector, depending on the opto. This is the same for the Clock Passage opto, and the Big Kick 2 opto.

#7171 4 months ago
Quoted from BenB:

Is there a way to clear out the default high scores so I can keep track of mine. It seems as though it won’t give me a chance to put my initials in even if I have beaten one of the high scores. I am urgently running the 9.4h rom.

Open the coon door, and HOLD DOWN the ESCAPE button. Keep holding.. keep holding.. there you go.

#7172 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Open the coon door, and HOLD DOWN the ESCAPE button. Keep holding.. keep holding.. there you go.

Does that erase the default developer scores as well? Does it set all scores to zero?

#7173 4 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

Does that erase the default developer scores as well, effectively setting all scores to zero?

#7174 4 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

Does that erase the default developer scores as well? Does it set all scores to zero?

I’d also like to know the answer to that.

#7175 4 months ago
Quoted from BenB:

I’d also like to know the answer to that.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-do-you-lower-default-high-scores

I found this thread showing how to manually lower each of the defaults but haven't had a chance to try it yet.

#7176 4 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

Does that erase the default developer scores as well? Does it set all scores to zero?

No. In normal, unhacked WPC firmware, it is impossible to do this.

Keep in mind, these are *commercial* machines, meant to draw in money. If all the high scores could be reset to '0', it would seriously mess up the freeplay percentage when bookeepings or highscores were erased. Therefore, this 'feature' was never implemented.

#7177 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

No. In normal, unhacked WPC firmware, it is impossible to do this.
Keep in mind, these are *commercial* machines, meant to draw in money. If all the high scores could be reset to '0', it would seriously mess up the freeplay percentage when bookeepings or highscores were erased. Therefore, this 'feature' was never implemented.

Fair enough. And indeed, holding Escape did not do this.

What DID work was to manually set the scores in the menu (link provided again below). I set the GC and top 4 scores down really low, like 10-6 million each. My wife and I then proceeded to play several rounds of absolutely WRETCHED pinball. The good news is, I'm the new Grand Champion with a blistering score of 132 million.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-do-you-lower-default-high-scores

#7178 4 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

Fair enough. And indeed, holding Escape did not do this.

Apologies, it's holding down ENTER for 'x' number of seconds. It will reset (to factory) the High Scores.

#7179 4 months ago

Quick question ... The red wire on the right was just kinda jammed into what looked like a disc capacitor when i took this thing out, but it's no longer there, and i doubt it's the way its supposed to be. Anyone have any insight into this? Doesn't seem like anything even needs to be in between them.

20190610_220742 (resized).jpg
#7180 4 months ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

The red wire on the right was just kinda jammed into what looked like a disc capacitor when i took this thing out, but it's no longer there, and i doubt it's the way its supposed to be.

That was your thermistor.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide/page/2#post-2824182

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=thermistor+twilight+zone

#7181 4 months ago

I would upvote you twice if I could. Also, from the explanation, this would probably explain why my machine had reset when i hit the flippers.

#7182 4 months ago

I have two technical questions that I can not find the right answer for that I would like to pose:

1. My Gumball machine does not empty when I hit the "Empty Balls" setting on Tests. The machine works fine during play and I am not seeing any switch errors. Ideas?

2. I need to replace two of the connectors on the main board for J206/J208. These appear to be 9-pin .100 connectors. Are these the correct parts that I need to order?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-12116-09

And if so, how do they work? Do you just strip the existing wires and plug them in? They do not seem to be the crimping type that you see. If not these, would someone recommend a different method?

Thanks, as always

#7183 4 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

I have two technical questions that I can not find the right answer for that I would like to pose:
1. My Gumball machine does not empty when I hit the "Empty Balls" setting on Tests. The machine works fine during play and I am not seeing any switch errors. Ideas?

In Gumball test, when you select 'Empty', does it empty? It should. (Assuming the other tests work too..)

Quoted from Adipocere:

2. I need to replace two of the connectors on the main board for J206/J208. These appear to be 9-pin .100 connectors. Are these the correct parts that I need to order?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-12116-09
And if so, how do they work? Do you just strip the existing wires and plug them in? They do not seem to be the crimping type that you see. If not these, would someone recommend a different method?
Thanks, as always

Those will work, but I usually always recommend the crimping style, as the IDCs can just start to lose contact again. If you go for those, you will need a punchdown tool. (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-IDC-A100)

#7184 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

In Gumball test, when you select 'Empty', does it empty? It should. (Assuming the other tests work too..)

It does not. Its weird that the tests don't work, but it works just fine in game.

#7185 4 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

It does not. Its weird that the tests don't work, but it works just fine in game.

Maybe because high voltage to coils cutoff when coin door open? Try pushing in the door switches when trying to empty the balls.

#7186 4 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Maybe because high voltage to coils cutoff when coin door open? Try pushing in the door switches when trying to empty the balls.

Does your game have the high-voltage interlock? Try closing the coin door as the test is running.

#7187 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Does your game have the high-voltage interlock? Try closing the coin door as the test is running.

That doesn't work, and yes, based on past times when it did work, I do have that. The balls in the trough do get popped out during "Empty Balls" but the gumball machine just sits there.

#7188 4 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

That doesn't work, and yes, based on past times when it did work, I do have that. The balls in the trough do get popped out during "Empty Balls" but the gumball machine just sits there.

Ah - you may either be on a version BEFORE 9.4H (possibly 9.2, I do not have my notes with me), OR, a hacked version of 9.4H?

#7189 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Ah - you may either be on a version BEFORE 9.4H (possibly 9.2, I do not have my notes with me), OR, a hacked version of 9.4H?

It's 9.4 CH. That is the same ROM that has been in it since I got the machine in early 2006. Now let me clarify: this has not ALWAYS been a problem. The empty balls thing used to work reliably. Lately it has not. I just find it odd that I'm not either getting a switch error, or seeing similar problems during gameplay.

Also, thank you for the advice on the connectors. I am going to try using molex crimps, since that will be cheaper than tracking down a IDC insertion tool (Marco is OOS and they are $35 everywhere else...). First time trying this out but I've put it off far too long.

#7190 4 months ago

My TZ upper play field flippers aren’t working properly. Flipper test is all good but during game play they aren’t working. If I hold flippers for a few seconds the upper play field flippers begin to flutter fully open and closed softly. Checked loose connections and all are fine.

#7191 4 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

My TZ upper play field flippers aren’t working properly. Flipper test is all good but during game play they aren’t working. If I hold flippers for a few seconds the upper play field flippers begin to flutter fully open and closed softly. Checked loose connections and all are fine.

Likely your flipper optos need to be cleaned. Check in switch test and see what the flipper optos (NOT 'EOS') report.

Quoted from Adipocere:

It's 9.4 CH. That is the same ROM that has been in it since I got the machine in early 2006. Now let me clarify: this has not ALWAYS been a problem. The empty balls thing used to work reliably. Lately it has not. I just find it odd that I'm not either getting a switch error, or seeing similar problems during gameplay.
Also, thank you for the advice on the connectors. I am going to try using molex crimps, since that will be cheaper than tracking down a IDC insertion tool (Marco is OOS and they are $35 everywhere else...). First time trying this out but I've put it off far too long.

True, but Ted (y'know, the programmer?) said that 'CH' had some issues in the code - the person hacking it made some issues. Since we ruled out everything else, and the only OTHER person that had an issue with the Gumball Machine not spinning the motor was ALSO running CH, it's logical to wipe that off and rule it out as a factor. Since going from 9.4CH to 9.4H will not wipe memory, I would also do a factory reset.

#7192 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Likely your flipper optos need to be cleaned. Check in switch test and see what the flipper optos (NOT 'EOS') report.

True, but Ted (y'know, the programmer?) said that 'CH' had some issues in the code - the person hacking it made some issues. Since we ruled out everything else, and the only OTHER person that had an issue with the Gumball Machine not spinning the motor was ALSO running CH, it's logical to wipe that off and rule it out as a factor. Since going from 9.4CH to 9.4H will not wipe memory, I would also do a factory reset.

Interesting. And yeah, I know Estes wasn't happy about the hack (that's apparently why we never got 9.5...). I guess it wouldn't hurt to grab a 9.4 H and do a reset. That might also explain the bizarre Power Payoff glitch that keeps happening every time I get Powerball multiball...

#7193 4 months ago

Selling a brand new TZ sideart set in case anyone needs it ... https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/80730

#7194 4 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

Its weird that the tests don't work, but it works just fine in game.

Whenever I see weird stuff, I re-seat all the ribbon cables and test again.

#7195 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Likely your flipper optos need to be cleaned. Check in switch test and see what the flipper optos (NOT 'EOS') report.

Thanks Coyote! Such an easy fix!

#7196 4 months ago

Thanks Coyote! Such an easy fix!!

#7197 4 months ago

Bit of a speculative question this really. When I bought my TZ it had a stack of mods already fitted, as is de rigueur for the pin.

One of them, a Gumball light, was (it's currently disconnected because it was spliced in with a Robby robot wiring, which is faulty) connected to the DC motor board at the bottom right of the playfield.

From looking at the schematics the connectors it was using give 12VDC, which seems high for LEDs unless I'm missing something obvious.

I'm trying to work out why it might have been connected there, i.e. if there's something special about that board in terms of the 12VDC and in particular when it provides it. I guess it's related to the clock which makes me wonder whether it was doing something unique when the clock was in motion, but I don't think it was.. it seemed to just be on all the time.

Would this be a logical - or as logical as any other - place to pull 12VDC from under the playfield?

The light seemed to be an ever changing RGB LED (or LEDs), for what it's worth.

61635733-40B4-4AAC-8F9C-989DFFB107E3 (resized).jpeg

81DECA32-55F7-4B79-8829-7F884607E798 (resized).jpeg

#7198 4 months ago

Hi All,

I see quite a few different backboards and side blades, the pictures provided in this listing are not the best but it appears that there have been quite a few buyers.

Guess I'm looking for opinions on choices, please share any photos you might have.

ebay.com link » Twilight Zone Pinball Inner Cab Backboard Decal Set Mod

Warm Regards,
Mike

#7199 4 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Bit of a speculative question this really. When I bought my TZ it had a stack of mods already fitted, as is de rigueur for the pin.
One of them, a Gumball light, was (it's currently disconnected because it was spliced in with a Robby robot wiring, which is faulty) connected to the DC motor board at the bottom right of the playfield.
From looking at the schematics the connectors it was using give 12VDC, which seems high for LEDs unless I'm missing something obvious.
I'm trying to work out why it might have been connected there, i.e. if there's something special about that board in terms of the 12VDC and in particular when it provides it. I guess it's related to the clock which makes me wonder whether it was doing something unique when the clock was in motion, but I don't think it was.. it seemed to just be on all the time.
Would this be a logical - or as logical as any other - place to pull 12VDC from under the playfield?
The light seemed to be an ever changing RGB LED (or LEDs), for what it's worth.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Go to a second hand shop and find a 12v power supply with a minimum of 2amps. Get the kind with the box in the middle, not the box at the plug style. Cut the plug and splice it into the power supply post-switch. Then cut the power end and you now have 2 amps of mod power without taxing your boards. You can now add led strips and whatever else your heart desires. Put all your mods on this line. I've done this to all of my older machines. Take power from the wall, not the boards.

#7200 4 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Go to a second hand shop and find a 12v power supply with a minimum of 2amps. Get the kind with the box in the middle, not the box at the plug style. Cut the plug and splice it into the power supply post-switch. Then cut the power end and you now have 2 amps of mod power without taxing your boards. You can now add led strips and whatever else your heart desires. Put all your mods on this line. I've done this to all of my older machines. Take power from the wall, not the boards.

I'll probably end up doing this, but at the moment the only things using 12v in my TZ are - as far as I know - ColorDMD, a TV mod and this gumball light mod. Everything else is either clipped on or connected via Molex plugs in series with inserts, GI, etc.

I've already done something similar to what you're suggesting on my TAF using a mod power board supplied by a guy here in the UK:

IMG_2821 (resized).jpeg

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