Nice add. You really upped the collection by adding TZ!

I use coin batteries with no issues. If your clock is working fine, I'd leave the board. You can mod the old one with LEDs if you want.

Clock is fine with normal batteries. It won't remember the time if you use NVRAM, which some people substitute for batteries, which means it won't tell the current time during attract mode but will otherwise work as normal.

I use a remote holder and lithium batteries (less likely to leak). Belts and braces!

Thanks for all the responses guys! I believe I will remote mount an 3 AA pack just inside the coin door. My clock all works but would like to put LED lights in it. Game plays but needs a good shop job and clean.

I still just replace my batteries every year. Call me old-fashioned, but.. hey.

I replaced my clock board even though mine was working (previous owner had drilled holes in the top of the casing which probably helped).

Ingo's board is a "fit and forget" mod, well worth doing, you can give the clock gears a lube too if it's particularly loud. It's also the only board that works with GI OCD to my knowledge.

I do too replace them every year, but in the meantime they are off the board.
Not every battery has the same lifespan, or can malfunction.
Better save then sorry, and it's real cheap to make

Hey all - while I’m waiting for my son’s hockey practice to finish, I have a question about the trough proximity sensor-

Recently the game has not been detecting the powerball from the trough, and only when I lock it in the gumball machine. So I know it’s the trough sensor (plus I now have a credit dot)

When I go into test mode and move the balls around randomly, the prox sensor triggers - so is there some sort of adjustment I need to do on it? I haven’t worked on this game in 6 months so I am not sure if the board is going bad or if I just need to “fine tune” it. I re-seated all the connectors already and the red led is on the larger board, and the sensor does fire in test but.. now what? As soon as I start up a game it doesn’t detect the PB

The sensor does not detect the "power ball". It detects LACK of the power ball. So, with steel balls in there, you will see the LED on.
With a powerball on switch 1 in the trough (next to be ejected), the switch test should show switch #26 as OFF, not ON.

I had a similar issue and it turned out to be one of the trough switches. Go into switch edges and test everything. My switch issue was intermittent, so it was tough to diagnose. This gave me all sorts of powerball issues.

Starting to go through my tz. The right speaker doesn’t work. If I bypass the 100k ohm resister installed in the picture I get sound. Is this resister supposed to be here mounted here?

C14C2A5E-6D48-4DD1-A0C5-28E63DBC6A57 (resized).jpeg

Not present on mine.

Possibly added to reduce the high frequency sound from that tweeter, or maybe minimize some high frequency noise?

Yeah, used to get rid of hum. If it doesn't hum without it, ditch it. If it does, replace it.

You also should consider replacing that cap if you haven’t already. Old caps can cause all sorts of sound issues.

Will remove the resister and replace that cap. Thanks

Thanks for your answer, I was thinking about that because I have seen 2 TZ and both of them with wood "cracked" on the magnet spiral on the mini pf (but also on the main pf)!

Perhaps that is more related to general humidity conditions. TZ doesn't have any magnets on the main playfield except 2 or less typically 3 at the spirals, and they are not underneath the wood so wouldn't affect it.

Now - I'm not saying **it's impossible**, because a lot of things CAN happen. I'l sayin' it's unlikely. There's a lot of explanations (like @durzel mentions - a combination of humidity, and a magnet gettign stuck on until its fuse blows...?)
I HAVE seen a LOT of powerfields with planking, frankly.

Hey TZ Owners.... trying to help a chap out. He "added a couple new LEDs under the kickers". Now he lost everything on the green/orange wire (pop bumpers, kickers, out lanes). I am assuming he blew a fuse? Anyone advise on this and as to the Fuse to check etc.? Thanks!

I had the same problem as you, a large hole in the plastic above the lamp bulb. I bought mine from here https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/31-1765-12.html like half a year ago. Website says only 2 left so I would order that one asap if I were you.

Unfortunately it's in Australia so it took a week or so to get it delivered and I also had to pay an import tax (quite low) to get it into Sweden. No idea what it would cost for you to ship to the US. Fortunately they had some other parts I needed also so it felt OK to pay for that shipping.

Their prices is in AUD and not USD so it's actually a bit cheaper than one may think initially

Does anyone notice a loss of magnetic power on the magnets on the upper playfield during say a powermania mulitball? They work fine during a normal "battle the power" single ball, but I definitely notice a loss in the ability to move the ball significantly. Any thoughts?

Make sure you don’t have the low line mode on in the settings.

Anyone have any idea what this is? Looks homemade - is it from a mod or something? On the left side of my backbox.

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Likely you have lower than normal voltage/current capabilities. When playing the powerfield, flippers are deactivated, all 50v is being fed to the magnets. In powerball mania, the 50v is feeding the four flippers as well. Since they all fire at the same time, your magnets (and flippers) will be weaker. How MUCh weaker will depend on the power.

That ain't factory, obviously. Guessing off the top of my head, it could be a coin doubler?

Any background info on why I have 2 TZ plastics - noticeably different colours and different part number?
87EB09FB-FADE-418B-BBA7-243F9419A0D2 (resized).jpegBC4CF490-F97B-4642-8234-E843A454D408 (resized).jpeg

(One is also very obviously broken!)

Like playfields, plastics were done from different printers. Different inks, different colors.

So would the SP suffix mean Sun Process?

Believe so, yup. Don't quote me on that, as I have nothing to back it up, but logically, it makes sense.

Pick it up just yesterday

Welcome. You unlock this door with the key of imagination... oh and money. So damn much money.

That's some serious side decal sun fade there.

Thank you

Yes indeed!

It sure is some sun fade. I can’t complain knowing the fine deal I received

Put it in the middle of a row, you don't play the sides

JW doesn’t have pictures of his pins....

You are correct. Pic now uploaded.

Nice! We have similar taste in game play it seems

I picked this up in Allentown yesterday, but forgot to get the info on where the ground alligator clip attaches to. for those who have this particular robot, where does it attach to? I know the harness attached to J133, I assume if your using the ocd board, it attached to it as well.

robotpic (resized).jpg

I'm experiencing a weird bug lately. During some games, the Power "Hahaha" sound starts playing even when random switches not tied to The Power are hit. I first noticed this after a BTP multiball mode: Even after the mode was over, the "Haha" played every time the Right Flipper was hit. This happened again today. I am using the 9.4 ROM and have since I got this game in 2006, but I have not noticed this before. Is it a known bug, or something more sinister?

Thanks. I tried searching but might have been using the wrong keywords.

Check your batteries!

I mounted them remotely. Is corrosion the reason for your concern?

I rebooted and got a switch error for "Power Payoff 2" at 65. Doing manual checks, I noted that the switch at 66 (Middle R 5 Million) when tested was activating both "Power Payoff 2" AND "Middle R 5 Million.

So I turned off and unplugged the machine a few minutes. When I rebooted there was no more error.

Has anyone else ever experienced this? Again, the trigger seemed to be the Power multiball that starts when you reload the Powerball. There is so much going on there (especially when you have the playfield AND flippers going) that i was almost like it broke the game's brain...

Your leaf switch may need adjusting/cleaned. If there is only very little space to close, vibrations could be triggering it. With the power off, find the leaf switch from underneath and bend them apart a little bit. The two bits of metal should be close about 1/16 of an inch, but not too close. I had something similar on my NGG.

Copy that. Thanks!

While your under there, follow the wires to both #66 and #65 to see if they cross each other anywhere. Look for worn insulation/exposed wire that may be registering both when one is triggered.

Looking for a new ramp flap set...any ideas?

pinrestore.com sells the ramp flap metal and bluing compound, but you would need to remove and re-rivit. There may be someone on pinside that you could send it to. Couldn’t hurt to pm or call Starship Fantasy to see if they know of anyone or if they could do it.

Try pinbits, I know it says sold out but try emailing them (they dont update inventory very often)

http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_2&products_id=16

Some glitches can be sorted out by reseating the ribbon cables in the back box.

I picked up my TZ a few weeks and have been going through it. I am wondering where the best place to get the newest Home Roms would be. I still have the original game roms currently.