Two questions, the stainless steel bracket on the back of the clock (angled one), is its purpose to keep the ball from flying into the back of the clock? it seems the long screw(upper left facing the clock from the front) that holds it on has stripped a bit and it keeps getting loose, causing the bracket to turn slightly and stop the ball from rolling past. I'm thinking I'm in need of a new clock housing.
Installing the diverter magnet, the two sided tape seems somewhat inadequate to hold it as its come off twice now and I'm thinking 5 min epoxy? any thoughts?

I had the same exact thing happen a couple of weeks ago. I do believe that its purpose is to protect the clock back. I used some 3m sticky stuff and it has held well, butI too will needa new clock housing as well. Its the same stuff I use on my target decals. You can find it online or at Target. That long screw stripped and wouldn’t bit anymore.

Does anyone know where this plastic protector might go?

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Looks like it's up by and around the gumball machine.

Looks like a protector for T2.

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Does anyone know if anyone still sells the clear clock housing? The only ones ive come across are blue, yellow and red.

I just picked up a clear gear housing from Marco last month. Going to be assembling my clock finally this weekend... making lots of good progress this past week.

edit... sorry I misunderstood. No the only housing I see is colored. I wish PPS would have made these but I settled on blue from Mantis. It looks really sharp though, I think overall I will like it.

here's one . . .

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/bally-parts/twilight-zone/03-8833.html

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/bally-parts/twilight-zone/03-8834.html

Sweeeeeet! You are my hero. Was thinking it was pretty pricey at first, but realized it was aud, which comes out to about 69 bucks usd for both shipped according to googles conversion thing

You're most welcome, I've purchased many pin parts from them over the years and they have never let me down !

Regarding the Auto Shooter misfiring, I had the same problem and found a great fix at Dr. Ed Cheung's Pinball Blog and have had no problem since. All of Dr. Cheung's restoration work on his pins is worth reviewing. The fix is at the end of this link: http://www.edcheung.com/album/album08/pinball/tz.htm Good Luck

The good Doctor was right about "slop in the kicker", but what worked much better for me was putting the additional washer on the _other_ side of the linkage. Try it both ways, and see which works better for you.

What are people using for Mylar replacement for the playfield? Marco makes one that covers most of the playfield, but I'm concerned that the Door area is not as smooth as the rest of the playfield and it will be lifted a bit. I see one on ebay that seem to mimic the original ones. Anyone use it? recommendations? Thanks gents.

You don't need to mylar the playfield for a pin in home use, just clean and wax it occasionally.

While playing a game today, all my flippers suddenly started oscillating. I shut her down and upon restart, its stuck in testing mode. (9.4) I have GI lights, but no other lighting (led ocd board). I checked the fuses all good, I checked the flippertronic board and I'm getting 75v at J907 instead of 50. I checked the input to the bridge and its 50 vac. I removed the board and did a diode check on the bridge and its seems to be ok. could a bad cap cause the voltage to get that high? there's nothing else on that circuit.
Update...after some more checking, I had no 18vdc, ultimately my BR1 rectifier bit the dust....

A leaky diode within the bridge rectifier can cause that. Also, an electrolytic cap that lost its capacity would be suspect.

When in doubt, replace the bridge recs and filter caps.

I am missing a reference picture for this piece. Does anyone know where this metal spacer belongs?
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Fwiw, i just finished redoing my entire playfield and don't recall seeing that part. I even catalogued each metal piece, and don't see it in the pics. I could be wrong, but don't remember it.

That's good because I am just about finished with reassembly. No more broken clock!

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Barr933 - Fixes that really work for both these issues you mention are given previously in this topic. Sorry I don't have the exact link; however, a quick search should help you to locate them. Good Luck

I like your custom connector, but what "next guy" are you talking about? No one is getting their hands on my TZ. I plan to be buried with it!

Lol! Thought about that too, except buried in it...DIB. Dead in Box

Funeral plans already checked off!

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Thats great!!

Can someone tell me where this plastic goes? Apparently my machine didnt have it before the restoration - it's the one extra i have from the new set that I can't figure out

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It’s supposed to go above the left orbit, but it was removed before production.

Awesome, was thinking that may have been the case. Thanks for the help!

Gumball popper (VUK)- I was attempting to replace the gumball popper coil sleeve, but can't seem to figure out how to remove the ball pop from the end of the shaft? Anyone got the skinny on this....I'm trying not to remove the optos to bench it just to do this...I'm sure its easy once you know how...

Are you talking about this black round piece with the 4 prongs? Should be just a single screw in the middle that attaches it to the plunger.

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I think there's a little pin that you have to knock out. If i remember correctly, you can use a tiny screwdriver or something to punch it out.

Yup. Small phillips head screw in the bottom of the cup, when looking straight down on it.

Yes...found it...actually saw it in the manual too this morning while looking for something else....

Did anyone here buy a CPR mirrored backglass? I got mine yesterday and didn’t realize the plastic channels from the translite won’t work. Which ones did you buy?

Actually, the plastic channels Do work. The CPR glass is the same thickness as the original Plain Glass on your game.

Remove the Plastic Channels and set aside.
Remove the Original Glass and Translite....Put them away, you won't be using the Original Glass anymore.
Put the CPR Backglass in place.
Use the Original Plastic Channels to secure.
Done.

They aren’t the same thickness. At least mine isn’t. If it was, I wouldn’t have posted this here after trying to slide them on. When I put the translite back together it easily slid back together. The CPR glass did not.

It sounds like your Existing Plain Glass in your game is not 1/8" Glass and has a different set of Plastic Channels. I would suspect that at some point someone broke the original glass and had the thicker glass on hand and used that with thicker plastic channels instead of using the correct 1/8" glass and original channels. Operators out on location were notorious for doing hacks like this just to get machines back up and running/Earning again.

The last week my game have started to randomly decrease the sound volume so it is barely hearable. I think it only happens while playing and not in attract mode. Often it reverts back to normal level when starting a new game, if not I have to manually adjust volume back up again a few notches. Apart from this everything else seem to work as it should. What could cause this behavior?

Is the volume level in the system decreasing 8, 7, 6, 5, 4 etc.? maybe a stuck door button!?
Or is the level decreasing without any obvious interaction? So maybe a component failure is imminent.

When weird things occur like this, reseat the ribbon cables in the backbox and see if it clears up.

And double check the ground wire that is soldered across the terminals on the coin door controls - mine has broken off before which caused a similar issue

Thanks, I will try reseat all the ribbon cables and check ground wire to see if it helps.

To clarify, this happens while playing and the coin door is closed/locked. Could be that nudges and coil vibrations make some cable to wiggle around and loose signal or such. I will check current volume setting (think its on 6) before playing, and recheck the current volume setting if/when the volume goes down again to see if it actually changes; It's definately not me or the game pressing the volume buttons physically but it can ofc be some signal problem.

Does anyone have a spare one of these plastics I could buy? It’s not a commonly broken one, but mine got burnt from the flasher. Thank you!!!
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Is there any mod to prevent mini pf magnet damages? Adding fuses or something else like is done on TAF?

Never really an issue. I've *never* seen it happen before. (But doesn't mean it wouldn't..)

Those magnets only pulse when a player has started that 'mode', and the timer is still running. (OR, in a ball search.) So, unlike TAF where the magnets are pulsing until the player starts multiball (which can be a long time, if the ball becomes stuck).. it's a small issue here.

If a transistor fails and locks the magnet on, the ones used in TZ have built-in fuses that will blow after a set time.

I am new to the club here as I just picked up my TZ this past weekend. The 3 AA batteries are still currently PCB mounted. I’ve read mixed reviews with the clock and certain batteries. I’d like to know what most of you guys are using? Coin style, remote AA Packs, or ?.

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Remote AA packs, done that to all my machines

+1. I put one in with enough length of wire so it would attach to the coin door for ease of access. Works like a charm.

As far as the clock, I would recommend Ingo's clock board. I was having all kinds of issues with mine, but once I installed Ingo's over a year ago, there have been no problems since.