This board seems to have been replaced in the not too distant past, but still was giving me the broken clock error. Looking forward to installing Ingo's upgrade board.

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Ingo’s clock really is the way to go. Best replacement available.

That board looks great. Doubt it was your issue.

I had that problem with the same board...Ingo's replacement is terrific. Fixed my Clock is Broken issue. Quick shipping and great communication too.

Shame what's happened with his collection -but I'm glad he's still shipping that clock! It's the only board that works properly with GIOCD too.

I have a couple of prototype "mirror" clock faces and also the clear lens for the front of the clock if you are looking for something different. These are cut from an acrylic mirror, where the light illuminates the characters on the face:
tz-clock-lenses (resized).jpg

That’s cool! Do you have a photo of those installed?

Here is the Twilight Zone clock face with the standard insert using the blue 12-LED carpet lighting board.

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Lettered board in place:

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PM sent...

While playing some today I realized that the lamp below the "Double Light Hood" plastic (located where the cross-over chute ends near the left flipper) never was lit. As I was wondering when it was supposed to be lit I checked the manual (both paper variant and online pdf) but neither shows that lamp at all. Checked through the lamp matrix and can't find it there either. It's not listed as a flasher either.

Thought it was supposed to be a GI lamp and ran the GI light tests but still totally dead. My current lamp is a LED and sure it could be broken, so guess next step will be to remove the glass and try with another lamp. Still, I'm interested in knowing when it is supposed to light, all the time or?

Can anyone spread some light on this issue? ;P

If you're meaning the yellow hood between the dual-left-inlanes, it's GI. Should always be lit.

Yes, that's the one. Ok, will try replace lamp ASAP and if that isn't working I guess I got bad cables or solder points.

By the way, most mods seem to come with alligator clips for easy mount/unmount. I'm not really comfortable with those clips, it feels like they could fall off from vibrations over time and being of metal cause a short somewhere else. Currently I have two mods that I mounted but not connected electrically, because of this issue. I'm thinking of adding a pair of connectors on the cables (for easy removal when cleaning and such) and solder the ends as a more "permanent" solution.

I'm just curious, what do most people do? Use the clips? Am I making a problem of something that never occur?

Stop adding shit, play the game.

The alligator clips aren’t really an issue - they very rarely come off. Typically mods are not soldered on, just in case an owner doesn’t like the mod and can more easily remove it. That seems to be changing though; people are just sticking with the mods

I will say that alligator clips make it easier to fix a mod which is having a problem. I recently had to remove something from my TZ which was not working, and it would have been a pain to desolder

I don’t like alligator clips because they are ugly as hell. Soldering in is also problematic as depening on the wire route you may make future servicing more difficult.

I usually build a small connector to tie into the harness. If there is something nearbt with a connector already can build an Y or just add in where it fits best. That way it’s still easily removed when needed and looks like it belongs.

Spend the extra 5 bucks on a few molex connectors. Besides then the next guy won’t have to guess where to hook it back into.

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I'm going to be adding some molex connectors as well. Are you able to use the same size pins for every location, or is a mix of sizes required? I'm wondering about .062 vs .093 for this.

I decided to follow my guts; cut the mod cables in half and installed molex connectors using a crimping tool. The alligator clips also had to go and I soldered the other end to the proper places below the PF. All working and it feels great, knowing they can also be easily removed if needed.

Also fixed the GI that wasn't working, it was actually the LED that was broken. When I tried to remove it from the lamp holder the LED cap broke off completely. First time a LED actually physically breaks for me (and not only bad contact from the smalll contact legs).

Hi
The vertical wood plate at the end of the playfield is missing on my TZ.
Can anyone give me the dimensions of this plate?
The height and thickness. So I will be able to build a new one.
Thanks

The backboard? Behind the gumball machine / ramp / etc?

Alligator clips are a joke. I remove them and solder immediately. I can't fathom anyone having an issue with solder. If I was to sell a machine and a potential buyer complained about having to solder, I'd politely show him the door. It literally takes <5 minutes to set up, desolder a connection, and clean up.

Pinball machines require a lot of soldering. My advice, for what it's worth, is to get used to and embrace that idea. All that being said, I have added connectors for some jobs where more frequent removal may be needed. This is pretty rare though.

Yes, this one.

Call someone when a coil wire falls off? Ridiculous and lazy if you ask me...

Looking for a new translight planetary’s been back ordered for two months now what are my other options? Ty

Option is a new backglass from CPR

Don't worry - looks like that was a repo part anyways... as it doesn't have the plastic posts attached like the original

The problem is not as much 'random falling off' but people accidentally knocking them off, or around moving stuff around and create shorts

They become a big snag hazzard... or people don't secure them from the start.

Tacking something onto an existing solder log is very easy.

Anyone buy one yet? I am curious how they look and worth the price.

I have seen the BOP and SoF ones in person installed in games and can say they're both really awesome.

There is almost no way they look as crappy as the Planetary ones - I was specifically warned about the quality, and bought one anyway, and it was WORSE than described

Check my post 5865 in this thread. I had the same issue. The plywood is 3/4” thick and it is 6 1/2” tall. The width is the same as the playfield.

Ordered the CPR translight hopefully it is worth the $310

Post some pics - I want to replace my godawful PPS one

Thanks a lot for the informations ! I will have a look to the post you suggest.

No problem but I told you the worng thickness. It should be 1/2".

I wanted to give a shout out to Ingo, who sent me his clock replacement board. I think it took less than a week ,which was a pleasant surprise.

I finally summoned the courage to take the clock off the game and install the new clock board. Wow!!! It was surprisingly easy! The credit dot is gone...after a year, I am such a procrastinator. Very easy to install. I am not sure that it makes any difference when installing the OPTOs, but I referenced his website and it looked like the chamfered edge was to the outside. I powered up the game and " clock is broken" is no longer in the test report, and the clock advances to the correct time in the attract mode. I am very pleased and Ingo- thank you .

Thanks mate for the feedback ... and I learned a new englsh word, I have never heard before ..."chamfered" ... should improove my installation guide

Ingo is a great fellow pinsider! A fast and friendly transaction for his board. I highly recommend him!best quality out there!

Seconded. And Ingo deserves all our support after his years of time spent designing the perfect clock mod - and his awful misfortune earlier this year.

Thirded! Not only is his clock board perfection, but he stands behind it 100% with support if anything should go amiss. If you are on the fence about upgrading your clock board, do not hesitate! Rest assured that your clock problems will disappear instantly.

Seatmandan.. Why the down votes? Ingo makes a great replacement.

I think he said his Ingo board arrived DOA and is now sitting on a shelf

I suppose that’s the mature and intellectual way to go about it.

Picking up my TZ this week, hope to be a member of this misfit toys club soon, but on another note, following this thread on alligator clips and molex connectors, I've used these posi tap connectors when I installed my auto car starter this winter as I hate those crimp on ones often used in the auto parts/ add on accessories. These are really simple and you can remove them and only leave a small hole behind (in the insulation) and no soldering. Not sure how you all feel about these. Here is an Amazon link, but I find them a little bit cheaper on ebay. https://www.amazon.com/Posi-Tap-Connectors-through-Gauge-Fuseholders/dp/B009RPDOAM/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_2

Part of the club now for about a month after picking up a TZ from fellow pinsider @arcadebrothers!

While cleaning up, changing to Titans, replacing slot target and magnets, and some other stuff I found what looked like the end of a screw slightly sticking up out of the playfield behind the upper left flipper in the ball path to the camera shot. After removing the flipper mechanism it turns out it is roll pin. It can't be lowered into the playfield as it hits a flipper coil bracket screw. Pics are after I pushed it out some.

Is this meant to be there?

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flipper alignment pin? Just tap it down and file it off so it can be flush on the pf?

Can someone do me a favor and measure what the distance/width in mm is across the opening of the camera shot when the flipper is up. ie. how wide the shot is.

I'd recently sold my tz so I can't do it. I want to use the measurement against another machine.

I removed the flipper plate blocking it, then took the roll pin out. It could affect ball travel and scuff them up a fair amount too. Hole is still there to help align the flipper.