I could not readily find the manual- but I think there is a connection needed for 12vdc for the DMD lands on the driver board possibly on J116- did the original connection get re-hooked up to this junction via the z connector that comes with the new DMD cable?

I did find the manual and-this connection does head to the fliptronic board via the cabinet opto switches

That was it, I didn't realize that Randy from colorDMD emailed me right back last night and identified that was the issue. I did not reconnect with z connector.

Everything works fine, awesome display! I now have "clock is broken" error message
Something else to work on.....

Thanks everyone!

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/72952

Just a heads up. New mods just listed for sale.

Anyone have the Great Lakes Modular V2 mini playfield switch kit or know where they have some in stock?

Not GLM, but same style:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/129#post-4625780

I have 4 kits available. If these are sold, I do another run in a few weeks.

Twister,what is your price and is shipping prohibitive for me to order a set of these? I'd love to see the pics you have on that group page but it won't let me enlarge them because i'm not a member.

After dealing with some family business, I should be back here poking my head in.

Did you ever solve this?
If not, check that the kicker arm is NOT a slingshot arm! Make sure it DOES NOT have a lip on the top of the plastic bunt that the ball rests against.

Kicker is the correct.
I believe issue is caused by PF protector with ball hitting edge of protector.
My options are to either remove protector or install a cliffy at rocket launch.

Picked up a TZ this weekend.

Game has a few issues to work through, so I am sure to be ordering parts soon. I notice they make a clear ramp set which looks nice. The back of this game seems dark... I want to find a way to brighten that up. Wondering if a light strip would work.

I've got a credit dot for broken clock, so will probably need a new board for that. It seems like that generates a lot of heat and just gets trapped in the clock housing.

Anyway... will probably play this for a few weeks before tearing it down for a full cleaning. The subway is filthy.

I purchased my TZ back in December 2014 and have (knock on wood) almost zero problems with it. To date, it's still the only machine I own. Then I discovered pinball streaming channels on Twitch, so I bought some camera gear and a laptop to fire up my own channel. If you're interested in seeing some TZ gameplay, as well as an expanding lineup of games played with other pinball fans in the Atlanta metro, give the channel a follow at https://www.twitch.tv/billwinterberg

Also, if you're in the Atlanta area and want to host a pinball streaming night with a machine in your collection, send me a message! I just met with Veith this past weekend and played Dialed In from his awesome collection.

A Pinstadium kit will brighten up your game nicely.

The clear ramp will look great. I would use one but my smoke ramp is in perfect shape. I put a clear ramp in my TAF.

I agree TZ is a bit dark all around. When I shopped mine, I replaced all the GI bulbs with cool white frosted LED, and am happy with that look, leaving the inserts incandescent. There are plenty of more expensive mod solutions as well. Gumball machine light mod, door insert flasher upgrade, ramp light shows, backbox color changers, and pin stadium.

I can see why TZ is a generally expensive machine. I just dropped $500 in parts orders from PBL and Marco today. That does not include the LEDs, ColorDMD, clock board and Mantis parts that I'll be ordering. Oh well it will look real purdy when I am done with it. Going to do a mix of WW and Sunlight on the GI. Previous owner had the Cointaker LED set in from ages ago, and the inserts look quite nice still. The cool white was just a bit too harsh on my eyes but the bulbs were the kind without domes. Mostly I will just need to do GI and maybe some sort of backboard / spotlight combination. Either that or just break down and go pinstadium.

Smoke ramp? Mine has a clear ramp but I thought that was the original color. What’s smoke look like?

Marco sells a clear plastic ramp. My original TAF and TZ ramps are tinted gray.

so do pinball spares aus , just got one $70AUD

Not sure if TZ expensive because of parts...

...or parts expensive because it's TZ?

NOTSUREIF (resized).jpg

I am new to the club with my restorated Twilight Zone

To all Invader-Topper-Owner: Is it possible to get some pictures from the back of the Invaders Topper, I have no clue how (or where) to open my original Sideshow Invader figure to put a motor and leds inside

Thanks a lot
Chris

7895708f1edf488af14d855205fbe5640efe1c49 (resized).jpg

s-l16dd00 (resized).jpg

Hello

I have a weak top right lock kickout coil. It really struggles when a few balls are queued up. Does this require a new coil or just a new sleeve? Have others had similar issue? how did you resolve.

Thanks

Have swapped coil / sleeve with new parts, still same issue, do i need a weaker spring?

Is the kicker itself broken or worn?

no everything looks fine it appears to just be a plunger with a rubber tip. Not much else. Everything moves freely. Only other thing i can think of is the spring might be to stiff?

Is this a new problem or has it been there for a while?

Hey all! Just wondering if anyone could scan the door area of the playfield for me. I stupidly started a separate thread, then thought better of it. It's this section -

image_63752_1 (resized).jpg

Always had the issue

given that you have replaced the coil and verified that it is moving freely, the next you can do is replace the transistor that drives it on the power driver board.

Got my LEDs and LED OCD board ordered today.

This will be my first game using LED OCD. In the past I've just replaced the game rom with a supposedly led patched rom, ordered non-ghosting bulbs and called it a day. Neither of those totally eliminated the ghosting.

New clock board will be arriving soon too.

Question for those of you with the Ingo clock board- do you recommend to drill some vent holes in the clock housing? Or know if the aftermarket clock housing has some ventilation?

You will be super happy with this. I hope you ordered Ingo’s clock board - that is the only one that works correctly with the GIOCD

No need, you are good to go. Ingo’s board basically generates no heat

Thanks for the quick response! Yep, Ingo's board board and I will just keep my standard clear housing.

Thanks I will keep that in mind. So far I have only purchased the LED OCD, and I plan to stick with the WW clock LEDs.

This TZ is a bit of a player, but I am not sparing much expense to get it looking the best it can. My goal is to hopefully break even, or to lose less than 500 whenever the time comes to sell. Cabinet decals are also on my watch list, but so far I have not found a good source.

yes it does, its just much less heat. no need for venting.

I have Ingo clock board it's awesome. I also went with a new clock housing too. I went with the Mantis housing. It's a nice upgrade. At first I bought a cheaper housing from baa.
It was crap center dipped in slightly and the clock hands rubbed.

My new twilight zone

5EC94A13-1842-4D6A-8CFC-ADAB45E28990 (resized).jpeg

What could go wrong ?

YAHGHH!! The pinball horror pics thread is here..

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-horror-pics

Is that a TZ prototype ?

.

Maybe it's tz #2. Some assembly required. 55k.

Good Luck!

LOL

I had this problem about a year ago. For some reason, the plunger bell crank was NOT perfectly aligned to the center of ball #1 in the ball trough. THink of a cue stick striking the cue ball in pool. when one ball was in the trough, it would usually kick it out no problem, maybe take 2 tries. But if 2 or 3 were in there, it would have to re-fire like 3-6 times or more to eject that first ball.

FIX: make sure the bracket/coil plunger strike ball one perfectly in the center of the ball by adjusting the wood screws that hold the bracket to the playfield. Hope this helps you

No. No 3rd magnet.

Hello fellow owners! I have a question about the locked ball area behind the clock. When I lock a ball and then the game ends before I can get a multiball. The ball stays in the lock area behind the clock. Then I turn off the machine. When I turn it back on the ball kicks out. Shouldn’t the ball be kicking out when the game is over before I start a new game?

The game is behaving correctly; it does the exact same thing on my machine.

Unless someone knows any better, I think this is right.