(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

8 years ago


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  • 11,426 posts
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  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Ive
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There are 11426 posts in this topic. You are on page 136 of 229.
#6751 2 years ago
Quoted from starslugger27:

I just installed the color DMD monitor on my TZ, but when I turned on the machine, none of the flippers work. I am not sure what happened or what to do. I appreciate any help. Happy Holidays!
Joe

I could not readily find the manual- but I think there is a connection needed for 12vdc for the DMD lands on the driver board possibly on J116- did the original connection get re-hooked up to this junction via the z connector that comes with the new DMD cable?

I did find the manual and-this connection does head to the fliptronic board via the cabinet opto switches

#6752 2 years ago
Quoted from sgorsuch:

I could not readily find the manual- but I think there is a connection needed for 12vdc for the DMD lands on the driver board possibly on J116- did the original connection get re-hooked up to this junction via the z connector that comes with the new DMD cable?
I did find the manual and-this connection does head to the fliptronic board via the cabinet opto switches

That was it, I didn't realize that Randy from colorDMD emailed me right back last night and identified that was the issue. I did not reconnect with z connector.

Everything works fine, awesome display! I now have "clock is broken" error message
Something else to work on.....

Thanks everyone!

#6753 2 years ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/72952

Just a heads up. New mods just listed for sale.

2 weeks later
#6754 2 years ago

Anyone have the Great Lakes Modular V2 mini playfield switch kit or know where they have some in stock?

#6755 2 years ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

Anyone have the Great Lakes Modular V2 mini playfield switch kit or know where they have some in stock?

Not GLM, but same style:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/129#post-4625780

#6756 2 years ago

I have 4 kits available. If these are sold, I do another run in a few weeks.

#6757 2 years ago

Twister,what is your price and is shipping prohibitive for me to order a set of these? I'd love to see the pics you have on that group page but it won't let me enlarge them because i'm not a member.

#6758 2 years ago

After dealing with some family business, I should be back here poking my head in.

Quoted from Madmax541:

Any thoughts to what could be causing the ball when launch to hit wire ball trail in middle of Playfield?

Did you ever solve this?
If not, check that the kicker arm is NOT a slingshot arm! Make sure it DOES NOT have a lip on the top of the plastic bunt that the ball rests against.

#6759 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

After dealing with some family business, I should be back here poking my head in.

Did you ever solve this?
If not, check that the kicker arm is NOT a slingshot arm! Make sure it DOES NOT have a lip on the top of the plastic bunt that the ball rests against.

Kicker is the correct.
I believe issue is caused by PF protector with ball hitting edge of protector.
My options are to either remove protector or install a cliffy at rocket launch.

#6760 2 years ago

Picked up a TZ this weekend.

Game has a few issues to work through, so I am sure to be ordering parts soon. I notice they make a clear ramp set which looks nice. The back of this game seems dark... I want to find a way to brighten that up. Wondering if a light strip would work.

I've got a credit dot for broken clock, so will probably need a new board for that. It seems like that generates a lot of heat and just gets trapped in the clock housing.

Anyway... will probably play this for a few weeks before tearing it down for a full cleaning. The subway is filthy.

#6761 2 years ago

I purchased my TZ back in December 2014 and have (knock on wood) almost zero problems with it. To date, it's still the only machine I own. Then I discovered pinball streaming channels on Twitch, so I bought some camera gear and a laptop to fire up my own channel. If you're interested in seeing some TZ gameplay, as well as an expanding lineup of games played with other pinball fans in the Atlanta metro, give the channel a follow at https://www.twitch.tv/billwinterberg

Also, if you're in the Atlanta area and want to host a pinball streaming night with a machine in your collection, send me a message! I just met with Veith this past weekend and played Dialed In from his awesome collection.

#6762 2 years ago

A Pinstadium kit will brighten up your game nicely.

#6763 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

Picked up a TZ this weekend.
Game has a few issues to work through, so I am sure to be ordering parts soon. I notice they make a clear ramp set which looks nice. The back of this game seems dark... I want to find a way to brighten that up. Wondering if a light strip would work.
I've got a credit dot for broken clock, so will probably need a new board for that. It seems like that generates a lot of heat and just gets trapped in the clock housing.
Anyway... will probably play this for a few weeks before tearing it down for a full cleaning. The subway is filthy.

The clear ramp will look great. I would use one but my smoke ramp is in perfect shape. I put a clear ramp in my TAF.

#6764 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

I want to find a way to brighten that up. Wondering if a light strip would work.

I agree TZ is a bit dark all around. When I shopped mine, I replaced all the GI bulbs with cool white frosted LED, and am happy with that look, leaving the inserts incandescent. There are plenty of more expensive mod solutions as well. Gumball machine light mod, door insert flasher upgrade, ramp light shows, backbox color changers, and pin stadium.

#6765 2 years ago

I can see why TZ is a generally expensive machine. I just dropped $500 in parts orders from PBL and Marco today. That does not include the LEDs, ColorDMD, clock board and Mantis parts that I'll be ordering. Oh well it will look real purdy when I am done with it. Going to do a mix of WW and Sunlight on the GI. Previous owner had the Cointaker LED set in from ages ago, and the inserts look quite nice still. The cool white was just a bit too harsh on my eyes but the bulbs were the kind without domes. Mostly I will just need to do GI and maybe some sort of backboard / spotlight combination. Either that or just break down and go pinstadium.

#6766 2 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

The clear ramp will look great. I would use one but my smoke ramp is in perfect shape. I put a clear ramp in my TAF.

Smoke ramp? Mine has a clear ramp but I thought that was the original color. What’s smoke look like?

#6767 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Smoke ramp? Mine has a clear ramp but I thought that was the original color. What’s smoke look like?

Marco sells a clear plastic ramp. My original TAF and TZ ramps are tinted gray.

#6768 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Marco sells a clear plastic ramp. My original TAF and TZ ramps are tinted gray.

so do pinball spares aus , just got one $70AUD

#6769 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

I can see why TZ is a generally expensive machine. I just dropped $500 in parts orders from PBL and Marco today. That does not include the LEDs, ColorDMD, clock board and Mantis parts that I'll be ordering. Oh well it will look real purdy when I am done with it. Going to do a mix of WW and Sunlight on the GI. Previous owner had the Cointaker LED set in from ages ago, and the inserts look quite nice still. The cool white was just a bit too harsh on my eyes but the bulbs were the kind without domes. Mostly I will just need to do GI and maybe some sort of backboard / spotlight combination. Either that or just break down and go pinstadium.

Not sure if TZ expensive because of parts...

...or parts expensive because it's TZ?

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#6770 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Smoke ramp? Mine has a clear ramp but I thought that was the original color. What’s smoke look like?

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#6771 2 years ago

I am new to the club with my restorated Twilight Zone

To all Invader-Topper-Owner: Is it possible to get some pictures from the back of the Invaders Topper, I have no clue how (or where) to open my original Sideshow Invader figure to put a motor and leds inside

Thanks a lot
Chris

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#6772 2 years ago

Hello

I have a weak top right lock kickout coil. It really struggles when a few balls are queued up. Does this require a new coil or just a new sleeve? Have others had similar issue? how did you resolve.

Thanks

#6773 2 years ago

Have swapped coil / sleeve with new parts, still same issue, do i need a weaker spring?

#6774 2 years ago

Is the kicker itself broken or worn?

#6775 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Is the kicker itself broken or worn?

no everything looks fine it appears to just be a plunger with a rubber tip. Not much else. Everything moves freely. Only other thing i can think of is the spring might be to stiff?

#6776 2 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

Hello
I have a weak top right lock kickout coil. It really struggles when a few balls are queued up. Does this require a new coil or just a new sleeve? Have others had similar issue? how did you resolve.
Thanks

Is this a new problem or has it been there for a while?

#6777 2 years ago

Hey all! Just wondering if anyone could scan the door area of the playfield for me. I stupidly started a separate thread, then thought better of it. It's this section -

image_63752_1 (resized).jpg
#6778 2 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Is this a new problem or has it been there for a while?

Always had the issue

#6779 2 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

Always had the issue

given that you have replaced the coil and verified that it is moving freely, the next you can do is replace the transistor that drives it on the power driver board.

#6780 2 years ago

Got my LEDs and LED OCD board ordered today.

This will be my first game using LED OCD. In the past I've just replaced the game rom with a supposedly led patched rom, ordered non-ghosting bulbs and called it a day. Neither of those totally eliminated the ghosting.

New clock board will be arriving soon too.

#6781 2 years ago

Question for those of you with the Ingo clock board- do you recommend to drill some vent holes in the clock housing? Or know if the aftermarket clock housing has some ventilation?

#6782 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

Got my LEDs and LED OCD board ordered today.
This will be my first game using LED OCD. In the past I've just replaced the game rom with a supposedly led patched rom, ordered non-ghosting bulbs and called it a day. Neither of those totally eliminated the ghosting.
New clock board will be arriving soon too.

You will be super happy with this. I hope you ordered Ingo’s clock board - that is the only one that works correctly with the GIOCD

#6783 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

Question for those of you with the Ingo clock board- do you recommend to drill some vent holes in the clock housing? Or know if the aftermarket clock housing has some ventilation?

No need, you are good to go. Ingo’s board basically generates no heat

#6784 2 years ago

Thanks for the quick response! Yep, Ingo's board board and I will just keep my standard clear housing.

#6785 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

Thanks for the quick response! Yep, Ingo's board board and I will just keep my standard clear housing.

Note: The clock LEDs on Ingo's board won't fade properly without the additional GI OCD board, and both OCD boards don't work very well with colour changing RGB LEDs, so i'd advise against using them in the clock (if you got sent a set with the Ingo board?). No need for vent holes in the clock - the LEDs are very low heat. vs the original 4 bulbs.

#6786 2 years ago

Thanks I will keep that in mind. So far I have only purchased the LED OCD, and I plan to stick with the WW clock LEDs.

This TZ is a bit of a player, but I am not sparing much expense to get it looking the best it can. My goal is to hopefully break even, or to lose less than 500 whenever the time comes to sell. Cabinet decals are also on my watch list, but so far I have not found a good source.

#6787 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

No need, you are good to go. Ingo’s board basically generates no heat

yes it does, its just much less heat. no need for venting.

#6788 2 years ago

I have Ingo clock board it's awesome. I also went with a new clock housing too. I went with the Mantis housing. It's a nice upgrade. At first I bought a cheaper housing from baa.
It was crap center dipped in slightly and the clock hands rubbed.

#6789 2 years ago

My new twilight zone

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#6790 2 years ago

What could go wrong ?

Quoted from Ijpinball:

My new twilight zone
[quoted image]

#6791 2 years ago
Quoted from Ijpinball:

My new twilight zone

YAHGHH!! The pinball horror pics thread is here..

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-horror-pics

#6792 2 years ago

Is that a TZ prototype ?

#6793 2 years ago

.

#6794 2 years ago

Maybe it's tz #2. Some assembly required. 55k.

#6795 2 years ago

Good Luck!

#6796 2 years ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

Maybe it's tz #2. Some assembly required. 55k.

LOL

#6797 2 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

Hello

I have a weak top right lock kickout coil. It really struggles when a few balls are queued up. Does this require a new coil or just a new sleeve? Have others had similar issue? how did you resolve.

Thanks

I had this problem about a year ago. For some reason, the plunger bell crank was NOT perfectly aligned to the center of ball #1 in the ball trough. THink of a cue stick striking the cue ball in pool. when one ball was in the trough, it would usually kick it out no problem, maybe take 2 tries. But if 2 or 3 were in there, it would have to re-fire like 3-6 times or more to eject that first ball.

FIX: make sure the bracket/coil plunger strike ball one perfectly in the center of the ball by adjusting the wood screws that hold the bracket to the playfield. Hope this helps you

#6798 2 years ago
Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

Is that a TZ prototype ?

No. No 3rd magnet.

#6799 2 years ago

Hello fellow owners! I have a question about the locked ball area behind the clock. When I lock a ball and then the game ends before I can get a multiball. The ball stays in the lock area behind the clock. Then I turn off the machine. When I turn it back on the ball kicks out. Shouldn’t the ball be kicking out when the game is over before I start a new game?

#6800 2 years ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

Hello fellow owners! I have a question about the locked ball area behind the clock. When I lock a ball and then the game ends before I can get a multiball. The ball stays in the lock area behind the clock. Then I turn off the machine. When I turn it back on the ball kicks out. Shouldn’t the ball be kicking out when the game is over before I start a new game?

The game is behaving correctly; it does the exact same thing on my machine.

Unless someone knows any better, I think this is right.

There are 11426 posts in this topic. You are on page 136 of 229.

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