I second this

Guys, thanks for your input! I'll get on that!

My right ramp, crossover wireform, and diverter are energized when the power is on. I was doing a little maintenance and kept getting shocked when touching these metal parts. It's not a lot of current but still concerning. Only issue I have with the game right now is the sound. Sound volume keeps dropping off. Slapping the cab brings it back. I tried reseated the audio board connectors and press the chips in. That helped some. Not sure if that is related. Maybe I have a major ground issue? Never had a problem like this. Any ideas of what to check?

Troubleshooting the gumball machine. The motor doesn't run during any of the tests, and the error message tells me to check the Geneva switch.

Switch checks OK. Wiring to the motor checks OK. So, after referring to the schematic, I'm leaning toward problems with Q31, Q32 or U3 which relate to the motor drive circuit.

Anyone here ever see an issue with these, relating to the gumball machine motor? I'll probably go ahead and replace all three because it's such a PITA to remove the driver board. Once it's out, I'll probably re-cap the board as the big caps are slightly bulging on the tops.

Are any other parts of the game energized (e.g., rails)? First thing I would do is to make sure that the your machine is grounded (third prong on the plug). Next, I would check the coil that pulls down the diverter to see if one of the wires is touching the metal pulldown lever. I don't thing there are too many parts near the right ramp/crossover that are powered (maybe the optos?), so I'd guess it is something near that pulldown lever.

Looking to add a Twilight zone to my collection. Anybody selling a beatup one.
Ty

Check gumball diverter coil, bridge diverter coil - make sure neither are twisted so that the energized power terminal is touching the coil stop or coil bracket.

For the sound - try re-pinching the sub connectors, so that they're tighter.

Thanks for the help lyonsden and coyote. I spent more time with it this afternoon. Noticed it only shocked me if I touched the side rail and metal ramp parts. It must of been a coil issue because it stopped doing it when the coin door was open. I checked all the coils under the playfield. Some coils were a bit twisted but didn't look like any terminals was touching metal. I must of did something pushing wires around because problem went away.

One connector on the sub was a little loose. Tried making that a little tighter and sound problems seem to have gone away as well. Two for two today!

I'm fitting new black leg bolts and have run into a problem. My TZ always seemed higher than the 2 other pins next to it, the lockbar was higher and the rears were maybe an inch from being fully extended to get to 6.5" slope. My OCD was making me want all 3 pins to have a consistent profile.

Looking at it there are metal plates all around and each leg has 3 holes available. I was using the bottom 2 on all corners. The metal plate blocks access to the top hole, I have no idea how you're supposed to use it without taking the plate off.

What am I supposed to do here so I can use the top holes on the front and back, so I can lower the pin down? Those brackets look like they're supposed to be there so I'm reluctant to take them off, but at the same time I don't know why they're like that when they block access to one of the holes?

All 4 of my legs are the same height incidentally, and presumably the standard B/W ones.

Thoughts please Thanks in advance.

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Those plates are not factory, they're protectors added by previous owner.
Youll have to unscrew them and then re-screw them into place so that the holes you want to use are.. Well, usable.

Simple as that, lol. Thanks Coyote

In stock here I just bought one! Beautiful piece!

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-1751-3CP

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If I'm not mistaken he is referring to the plate that the decal is stuck to, not the PETG plate with the decal on that is sold in a few different places.

DonnieDarko I assume you mean the bit that has 4 standoff holes in each corner? I wasn't able to find this part anywhere when I rebuilt my clock, but Pinbits sell a kit with separate standoffs which works well.

https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_2&products_id=160&zenid=801112576e9d75853242d89aab4f69c3

It is not identical to the OEM piece, but it is the closest thing I could find. The OEM bit - as you know - has the standoffs integrated into it. The Pinbits one has them as separate tubes that you need to align over the holes when you put the screws through. A bit fiddly when you're trying to put the screws in but the end result is pretty much identical, and the Pinbits kit has the benefit of being crystal clear rather than cloudy like the OEM part.

Anyone know what sort of post fits properly into this hole, to fix the problem of balls falling out of the rocket ship after the skill shot?

A search turned up a previous fix - http://www.retroblast.com/articles/modzone_3.html#Bounce - but this webpage doesn't work anymore. I believe the suggestion is to remove one of the screws that secure the ball guide and instead install a post with a rubber on. I bought a Mini Post 1-7/16 but it didn't fit properly, so I'm a bit stuck.

Screenshot 2018-10-22 12.10.45 (resized).png

Anyone done this fix and can share a photo of what they did?

standard post like at the top of inlane/outlane dividers works. no rubber on it though

You mean like this? https://pinparts.co.uk/products/mini-metal-post-10-32-with-threaded-fitting-nut-fastening

This screws in with a nut underneath the playfield doesn't it? The screw that's currently in the guide is one that tapers to a point and is just screwed into the playfield I think.

Quick question: The only airballs I get are off the target to the left of the slot machine scoop. When i picked up my machine, I replaced that target with a reinforced one because the original was bent back. But I am still getting pretty regular airballs there. Are there any tricks to tweaking the angle there to reduce?

You are correct; that screw needs to have a T-nut below the playfield in order to work.

Here's what you should get:
https://www.pinballlife.com/1-716-tall-metal-post-with-cutaway-with-wood-screw-base.html

I've done this mod on my TZ and it works perfectly. I can post a picture when I get home from work today.

Thanks

yeah, the pinball life one. same top as what you posted but a wood screw bottom. Drop in replacement, removable if you so choose.

OK here's some pics:

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This really helps a lot! I used to have the skill shot constantly bouncing out of the rocket. Once I replaced that screw with the post and a rubber ring, problem solved! It slows the ball down just enough to gently land right where it's supposed to.

I hope this helps.

Of course the sad thing is you want the ball to bounce out, since the rocket shoots it into the pops and probable death.

Well, of course, that goes without saying...

I have a post on mine too, FWIW.

Excellent, thanks I'd rather it be consistent than randomly falling out to be honest.

How do you screw that in when there is barely clearance there?

FTR, I don't have a post on mine, but I have a different adjustable ball guide on my rocket, which helps prevent them from bouncing out.

I used a metal sleeve type post with a long cap screw.

No post there on my TZ, and I seldom get a bounce out. One thing I often recommend when things behave oddly is make sure you pin is level.

I used a small adjustable wrench to screw it in. Takes a bit of time, but it gets the job done.

Only thing I know is extra padding to keep the target from bending back as much. I have a reinforced target as well and get some air balls. Not as bad as my Shadow where I was getting air balls over the flippers.

Just need to support the Shadow standups so that they point downward. No more airballs.

Here's something else that might be of interest:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-slot-target#post-2295409

I did this mod on my slot target; it's been great ever since. You can get some steel rod at Home Depot or Lowe's and do some bending.

I replaced the switches with reinforced ones. That really helped. Still get some hops but nothing crazy. Curious, though, what do you mean by pointing them down? Like bending the mounting bracket?

Yeah, you just angle them slightly toward the playfield. You won't get any jumps after doing so. Mine are original, so I made rubber supports and placed them behind the targets.

the rubber is fine but not needed in that location the impact is slow. plus some rings are a bit thicker and can actually cause a ball trap.

I'm sure this topic has been covered several times, but is it really possible to upgrade the sound quality on TZ? I bought a semi restored TZ that has upgraded speakers/Sub, but the sound quality still isn't very good.....

IMHO, TZ is a good candidate for a pinsound board. Even if you keep the original mix I assume your still getting a least better quality audio, but those that have it can chime in. It's on my todo list to add one down the road after I grab a colordmd.

Thnx! i did a search and saw the added foam some have done. Figured I'd post as I know on my GB people have come up with shims and new brackets/etc and thought it best to double check here with the group.

Thanks Steve....your welcome to check on my color dmd anytime if u want to judge for yourself.....I've also heard that the pin sound board could help, but would like someone who has experience with one to confirm. That being said its a pretty pricey upgrade for sound, but who knows maybe its worth it as the sound quality is pretty poor (even with upgraded speakers) in TZ

garbage in, garbage out. unless you go to pinsound, which has its own issues, it will sound bad.

What issues with pinsound card?
Was thinking of adding it to my TZ

I have no issues with my Pinsound and it is awesome.

so was there a vast improvement in sound quality?

VAST. But you need to be prepared to do some work. I made a custom mix with callouts from the tv series - Rod Serling of course, but also Talky Tina saying various things, Rod talking about the camera, etc. I added some callouts myself of stuff he doesn’t actually say in the show specific to the game. All this on top of the original DCS Chris Granner music, which at this point I prefer to the original.

I also added the TZ show end theme music to multiball, so it sometimes plays that instead of the usual rock n’ roll music, and it is incredibly spooky. It plays maybe 1 time out of 3 games.

I tweak the mix every once in a while but it sounds real good.

One other thing you want to do is add a better, larger woofer in the cabient. That is REALLY important, as it makes the game thump really well.

You could also add the actual recording of the Golden earring song if you wanted to.

Pinsound board + Pinsound stereo cable + Better speakers + REALLY fast USB drive gives you a completely new sounding machine

Thanks for the feedback....I appreciate it....that being said I'm not sure how much work I'm willing to do The good news is mine already has upgraded speakers and sub, but in my opinion the sound still sucks.....sounds like the only real option is a pin sound board....

issues are not with pinsound itself, the hardware is excellent. Issues are you have to make or acquire the sound yourself. This is hit or miss, there is one that is the same as original but with better clarity. there are also ones with custom sound that, in my mind are the equivalent of colored GI. Just because you can does not mean you should. I'm sure the authours of the alternates think they did a great thing though.