Bath
The part number is A-16056 according to the manual.
I haven't been able to find anywhere that sells it in a quick search just now.
Marco's website seems to be down at time of writing.
Sorry that's not much help.
(Topic ID: 63352)
Linked Games
Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
Topic Gallery
Quoted from Pesmerga:As other say thats not my game I only used the pic for reference!
I am really looking everywhere for it :/
It's even difficult to find a clear picture of it dismantled
You know who can reproduce these wire form ramps? Possible that it's never been made as a spare in all these years? Tz is a great and diffuse game!
aah, I see. Well best of luck finding that wireform! I do know I've seen a couple threads where people have discussed making them, perhaps someone out there has done this before
Budapest
Quoted from Pesmerga:Hello guys! Joined the club two days ago! Sadly in my TZ the right wire form ramp is missing.. the one just front the ball launch! I've been looking for it everywere in these days without luck..Do anyone has a spare or can you suggest me in which store it's available? Please help!!
[quoted image]
In case you can't find a ramp, and all else fails... Suggestion: buy few metal ramps for other titles, like DM, RS then modify them. This TZ ramp is not so big and not very complex.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:aah, I see. Well best of luck finding that wireform! I do know I've seen a couple threads where people have discussed making them, perhaps someone out there has done this before
Do you remember in which section was this post??
Thank you also for the suggestion to adapt another ramp.. I would have to find something with that "rubber stop" ! I will try to open A search post in the market section hoping that something pops out!
Quoted from Pesmerga:Do you remember in which section was this post??
Thank you also for the suggestion to adapt another ramp.. I would have to find something with that "rubber stop" ! I will try to open A search post in the market section hoping that something pops out!
Try this also based on my original post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/baywatch-clubmembers-only/page/32#post-4137928
Quoted from Pesmerga:Do you remember in which section was this post??
Thank you also for the suggestion to adapt another ramp.. I would have to find something with that "rubber stop" ! I will try to open A search post in the market section hoping that something pops out!
Muskoka, ON
The wire form ramp can be ordered from here :
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/bally-parts/twilight-zone/12-7062.html
Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:The wire form ramp can be ordered from here :
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/bally-parts/twilight-zone/12-7062.html
This is the bridge between mini pf and right ramp.
Quoted from Davi:This is the bridge between mini pf and right ramp.
Nooo what a delusion!! 
Loveland, CO
SOUND BOARD INTERNAL FAILURE
Looks like my machine shat the bed. Won't boot properly (comes up four players, no start action, no pinball launch), and this is what I get.
Anyone else have experience with this error? I ran the manual sound test, all is well and every sound is correct. Nothing burnt on the sound card, connectors appear to be good, no cold solder joints.
Quoted from ramegoom:SOUND BOARD INTERNAL FAILURE
Looks like my machine shat the bed. Won't boot properly (comes up four players, no start action, no pinball launch), and this is what I get.
Anyone else have experience with this error? I ran the manual sound test, all is well and every sound is correct. Nothing burnt on the sound card, connectors appear to be good, no cold solder joints.
[quoted image]
First, please explain what you mean by "Won't boot properly (comes up four players, no start action, no pinball launch)". If it doesn't boot properly, how are you getting in the test menu to run the sound test?
That error usually indicates that the CPU on the sound board is sending back bad data, or is sending back good data and has recognized an issue with addressing, timing, etc.
It wouldn't boot properly to the "free play". Instead it would start up as four players "00 00 00 00" but no ball trough launch. ALso, the "Testing" screen seemed to take an unusually long time to run.
So I went thru all of the connectors, checked for overheated terminals, and re-seated all socketed chips on the sound board. Overall, it looks pretty good inside the back box. So I performed the factory reset just to be on the safe side.
It now appears to be working (didn't get the sound failure display), but haven't fully tested it yet.
On the main PC board, a couple of the power caps seem to bulge a bit, so I'm going to re-cap the electrolytics for starters. Then I'll look at the ball handling solenoids and see if there is any odd wiring issues.
That's what I have so far. I'll report back once I get off the damn phone and get back to reality....
Quoted from ramegoom:It wouldn't boot properly to the "free play". Instead it would start up as four players "00 00 00 00" but no ball trough launch. ALso, the "Testing" screen seemed to take an unusually long time to run.
So I went thru all of the connectors, checked for overheated terminals, and re-seated all socketed chips on the sound board. Overall, it looks pretty good inside the back box. So I performed the factory reset just to be on the safe side.
It now appears to be working (didn't get the sound failure display), but haven't fully tested it yet.
On the main PC board, a couple of the power caps seem to bulge a bit, so I'm going to re-cap the electrolytics for starters. Then I'll look at the ball handling solenoids and see if there is any odd wiring issues.
That's what I have so far. I'll report back once I get off the damn phone and get back to reality....
First thing I always do is unseat and re-seat the CPU cables, those cause so many issues ..
Quoted from ramegoom:It wouldn't boot properly to the "free play". Instead it would start up as four players "00 00 00 00" but no ball trough launch. ALso, the "Testing" screen seemed to take an unusually long time to run.
So I went thru all of the connectors, checked for overheated terminals, and re-seated all socketed chips on the sound board. Overall, it looks pretty good inside the back box. So I performed the factory reset just to be on the safe side.
It now appears to be working (didn't get the sound failure display), but haven't fully tested it yet.
On the main PC board, a couple of the power caps seem to bulge a bit, so I'm going to re-cap the electrolytics for starters. Then I'll look at the ball handling solenoids and see if there is any odd wiring issues.
That's what I have so far. I'll report back once I get off the damn phone and get back to reality....
If your caps are bloating, they need to be replaced ASAP.
Saw this simple mod/addition on a video on YouTube by Steve King. I remember the episode “A penny for your thoughts” where the coin stays up on its edge and he can read minds. Steve did it on his TZ so I added one to mine.
BA20E934-6449-4883-816F-6390621EC825 (resized).jpegQuoted from ramegoom:My variation of that mod:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The actual scene:
[quoted image]
What’s the plastic under the coins in picture #2?
Quoted from Kensurfs:Saw this simple mod/addition on a video on YouTube by Steve King. I remember the episode “A penny for your thoughts” where the coin stays up on its edge and he can read minds. Steve did it on his TZ so I added one to mine.
[quoted image]
For mod history. This was actually first done by Tom Wible some 15ish years ago back on RGP. Everyone jumped down his throat for selling a quarter on a bracket. Lol. Trick is you need to use the correct year coin for authenticity. Can’t remember but I think it’s on the back glass. I remember when we did the TZ slot machine and Lamp back 18 years ago. It was like the Wild West on TZ with Any mod imaginable. Funny times.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:What’s the plastic under the coins in picture #2?
Actually a metal plate. I matched the original coins and dates as best as I could, used clear epoxy to mount the coins in the same relative position as in the episode. Considered making a complete coin box to clone that image, but no place to put it inside the machine. Hmm...maybe a topper or back box feature?
Quoted from ramegoom:My variation of that mod:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The actual scene:
[quoted image]
That’s awesome
Quoted from ramegoom:Actually a metal plate. I matched the original coins and dates as best as I could, used clear epoxy to mount the coins in the same relative position as in the episode. Considered making a complete coin box to clone that image, but no place to put it inside the machine. Hmm...maybe a topper or back box feature?
Very nice! I have a replica “Nick of Time” devil’s head, and the stack of books from “Time enough at last” on my backbox but the coin box makes an awesome mod idea!
Ver. 94CH game ROM. I did a factory reset: Whenever I go into the slot machine or piano, it starts Lost In The Zone multiball.
Does the default LITZ setting change that back to normal, or are there other settings that are needed to bring the game back to normal?
Talk about racking up points...can't imagine why you'd want that going. One ball could last all day....
Quoted from ramegoom:Ver. 94CH game ROM. I did a factory reset: Whenever I go into the slot machine or piano, it starts Lost In The Zone multiball.
Does the default LITZ setting change that back to normal, or are there other settings that are needed to bring the game back to normal?
Talk about racking up points...can't imagine why you'd want that going. One ball could last all day....
The litz cheat requires holding the button at the start... it shouldn't happen anytime you start a game. LITZ cheat is an adjustment setting.
You might have a stuck button...
Quoted from ramegoom:Ver. 94CH game ROM. I did a factory reset: Whenever I go into the slot machine or piano, it starts Lost In The Zone multiball.
Does the default LITZ setting change that back to normal, or are there other settings that are needed to bring the game back to normal?
Talk about racking up points...can't imagine why you'd want that going. One ball could last all day....
No.
First off, this is a hacked version of the ROM. If the extra ball button is not stuck closed, and you do NOT have "A.2 14 Door Spots" set to *4*, then get a real ROM. (9.4H. Not 9.4BH or 9.4CH.)
Otherwise, fix the Extra Ball button, or turn A.2 14 to anything other than *4*.
Quoted from ramegoom:The CH was in the machine when I got it.
Anyone have a binary download for the H code handy? Binary or hex, either way I can burn it.
Thanks!
no reason to remove CH for H. its the same except for the coins being added back.
Quoted from ramegoom:Ver. 94CH game ROM. I did a factory reset: Whenever I go into the slot machine or piano, it starts Lost In The Zone multiball.
Does the default LITZ setting change that back to normal, or are there other settings that are needed to bring the game back to normal?
Talk about racking up points...can't imagine why you'd want that going. One ball could last all day....
Not cool to use the 9.4CH ROM. (I realize it was in the machine already) The existence of that ROM which was made specifically against Ted Estes’ wishes is the reason there were never any further TZ updates. I’ll see if I can hunt down 9.4H
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Not cool to use the 9.4CH ROM. (I realize it was in the machine already) The existence of that ROM which was made specifically against Ted Estes’ wishes is the reason there were never any further TZ updates. I’ll see if I can hunt down 9.4H
Well said.
Quoted from ramegoom:The CH was in the machine when I got it.
Anyone have a binary download for the H code handy? Binary or hex, either way I can burn it.
Thanks!
It's available at IPDB.ORG - if you can't download it (for whatever reason), send me a PM with your email, I will forward it.
Hey all -
Still figuring out my flipper issue. Lower right flipper is not firing. Buttons are recognized in test. Neither the power nor the hold
seems to work in flipper coil test, but all other flippers work
Upper right flipper fires when hitting button and in coil test
Swapped the coil for a new one - it does not work either. Changed the fuse 906 (lower left of fuse block on fliptronics board, not sure if that is the right F#)
So where do I test next? The Fliptronics transistor? Q4 (I think?). This has got to be a simple issue
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Hey all -
Still figuring out my flipper issue. Lower right flipper is not firing. Buttons are recognized in test. Neither the power nor the hold
seems to work in flipper coil test, but all other flippers work
Upper right flipper fires when hitting button and in coil test
Swapped the coil for a new one - it does not work either. Changed the fuse 906 (lower left of fuse block on fliptronics board, not sure if that is the right F#)
So where do I test next? The Fliptronics transistor? Q4 (I think?). This has got to be a simple issue
Are you getting over 50v at the coil?
If no, then trace that feed wire and find where it's cut.
If yes, then find the hold and power wires in the IDC connection at the fliptronics board, and short them to ground. Does coil work?
If yes, issue is on the board. Both transistors are dead.
If no, the those wires are cut. Trace them and find the cut.
Randomly changing stuff - like the fuse and coil - may help, but usually they don't. Or is hit-n-miss.
Quoted from Coyote:Are you getting over 50v at the coil?
If no, then trace that feed wire and find where it's cut.
If yes, then find the hold and power wires in the IDC connection at the fliptronics board, and short them to ground. Does coil work?
If yes, issue is on the board. Both transistors are dead.
If no, the those wires are cut. Trace them and find the cut.
Randomly changing stuff - like the fuse and coil - may help, but usually they don't. Or is hit-n-miss.
I'm sure its been said here before but your knowledge of this game and pinball in general is not only impressive but Extremely appreciated. Seeing people take time to decipher the most complicated or even simple problems to help another learn and enjoy is a wonderful thing. Just wanted to say Thanks for all of your contributions, I know I have learned a-lot!
Quoted from Yelobird:I'm sure its been said here before but your knowledge of this game and pinball in general is not only impressive but Extremely appreciated. Seeing people take time to decipher the most complicated or even simple problems to help another learn and enjoy is a wonderful thing. Just wanted to say Thanks for all of your contributions, I know I have learned a-lot!
I can't agree more. I just wish I knew as much as Coyote ever forgot about TZ. That and the fact that he personally helped me with my TZ problem that I would never have been able to solve on my own.
To paraphrase a TZ episode, "In Praise of Coyote".
Quoted from Coyote:Are you getting over 50v at the coil?
If no, then trace that feed wire and find where it's cut.
If yes, then find the hold and power wires in the IDC connection at the fliptronics board, and short them to ground. Does coil work?
If yes, issue is on the board. Both transistors are dead.
If no, the those wires are cut. Trace them and find the cut.
Randomly changing stuff - like the fuse and coil - may help, but usually they don't. Or is hit-n-miss.
Thanks - I will report back. Just tried to eliminate the stuff I was able to quickly. Seems likely I've got an issue with the board, but I'll verify.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Thanks - I will report back. Just tried to eliminate the stuff I was able to quickly. Seems likely I've got an issue with the board, but I'll verify.
Ok... 79V at coil, resistance shows 165ohms, so I moved to the IDC connector. Shorting to ground did not cause the coil to fire, so unless i did it incorrectly, that points to a wiring issue? Are there wire ends or connectors somewhere other than at the coil and at the IDC connector? I must be doing something wrong here.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Ok... 79V at coil, resistance shows 165ohms, so I moved to the IDC connector. Shorting to ground did not cause the coil to fire, so unless i did it incorrectly, that points to a wiring issue? Are there wire ends or connectors somewhere other than at the coil and at the IDC connector? I must be doing something wrong here.
Nope, that is a good assessment.
Okay, so, next step: short one of the driver lugs on the coin to ground. (NOT the one you measured the voltage from..!)
You SHOULD get the coil to respond. (Especially since it's a new cool.)
If you do, then yes, there's a break, cut in the wires somewhere. (Or, depending on how you tested shorting the IDC connector, it may be a bad crimp on the connector.)
If you do not get the coil to respond, then congrats, you somehow replaced a non-working coil with ANOTHER non-working coil. 
Very unlikely, but not unheard of.
Sorry I cannot provide more info (wire colors, etc), but I've been on my phone the last couple days.
There may be an inline connector, I honestly don't remember at the moment. If there is, it would be down in the bottom right of the playfield, when it is lifted up. (Where wiring harness reaches the PF)
Yelobird ,
Scotty_K - please. My ego does not need any attention.
Quoted from Coyote:Nope, that is a good assessment.
Okay, so, next step: short one of the driver lugs on the coin to ground. (NOT the one you measured the voltage from..!)
You SHOULD get the coil to respond. (Especially since it's a new cool.)
If you do, then yes, there's a break, cut in the wires somewhere. (Or, depending on how you tested shorting the IDC connector, it may be a bad crimp on the connector.)
If you do not get the coil to respond, then congrats, you somehow replaced a non-working coil with ANOTHER non-working coil. Very unlikely, but not unheard of.
Sorry I cannot provide more info (wire colors, etc), but I've been on my phone the last couple days.
There may be an inline connector, I honestly don't remember at the moment. If there is, it would be down in the bottom right of the playfield, when it is lifted up. (Where wiring harness reaches the PF)
yelobird , scotty_k - please. My ego does not need any attention.
Thanks man! I will get to it this afternoon
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Thanks man! I will get to it this afternoon
Sometimes it can also be a contact problem with the flatcable between fliptronics-board and cpu-board. Reseat this cable a few times.
Quoted from Namsan:Join the club with my TZ freshly restored ...
Some pics before restoration and a video.
- All parts have been done refurbished -
- No new parts used on this restoration except: rubbers, starpost
VIDEO-------------------------------------
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Where did you find the cool decal on the coin door?
Quoted from german-pinball:Sometimes it can also be a contact problem with the flatcable between fliptronics-board and cpu-board. Reseat this cable a few times.
Thanks Ingo and Coyote! I did pull the CPU ribbon again, and I think I got it!!
First, I had a bad fuse. I swapped in a bad one (or it blew so I will keep an eye on it) which threw off my testing. I finally pulled it out and tested. It looked good but.. was not. I am also resoldering the coil - I suspect that may have caused the initial issue, I had one connection that wasn’t totally solid.
You guys are awesome! Now to install my new Ingo clock board (currently with warm white LEDs) and test the GIOCD reaction to it. Then if all goes well.. a couple of games and then full shop-out tear down time!
Quoted from german-pinball:Sometimes it can also be a contact problem with the flatcable between fliptronics-board and cpu-board. Reseat this cable a few times.
In his case, grounding the driver wire would have still fired the coil, so it wouldn't have been the ribbon cable. 
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:First, I had a bad fuse. I swapped in a bad one (or it blew so I will keep an eye on it) which threw off my testing. I finally pulled it out and tested. It looked good but.. was not. I am also resoldering the coil - I suspect that may have caused the initial issue, I had one connection that wasn’t totally solid.
Ah, good!
Make sure your flipper coil has diodes the right way on it - if not, that will pretty much blow your fuse immediately.
Edit: I can't type worth a shit on my phone, apparently.
Quoted from Coyote:In his case, grounding the driver wire would have still fired the coil, so it wouldn't have been the ribbon cable.
Ah, good!
Make sure your flipper coil does not have diodes on it - that will pretty much blow your fuse immediately.
Wait, what?!
Quoted from Kensurfs:Coin door decals...does anyone know where to buy them? I can’t seem to find them for sale.
Thanks
Ken
[quoted image][quoted image]
I got mine at www.pinballdecals.com
Quoted from Coyote:...Make sure your flipper coil does not have diodes on it - that will pretty much blow your fuse immediately.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Wait, what?!
NO diodes? I think, the 2 diodes on the flipper coil MUST be at the coil!!!!!
Quoted from Coyote:In his case, grounding the driver wire would have still fired the coil, so it wouldn't have been the ribbon cable.
Ah, good!
Make sure your flipper coil does not have diodes on it - that will pretty much blow your fuse immediately.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Wait, what?!
Editied my post. I meant to say to check that the diodes are the right polarity, and not backwards. *doh*
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
