Are you running NVRAM?

If so, that's the issue.

If not, the RTC chip isn't operating.

I'm about a month late...but did you forget about me? lol

Actually, I was thinking of doing the update. Assuming I want to go to 9.4H, what else do i need to check? (sound rom, etc?)

Only had one ping for 9.4h..

No, no sound ROM differences.

sweet, thanks

Interesting. A lot has been written about ColorDMD LED Vs. LCD. Did you find that it is an across-the-board improvement, or does it vary depending on the game? I have several ColorDMD LCDs and one thing I've noticed is that some look best with DotsXL, some with Tile, etc. Occasionally I'll switch a game to smoothy, just to have a different look for a while. I also think newer ColorDMD LCD panels look a little better than older ColorDMD LCD panels, but it could be my imagination. And then there are some colorizations that look better than others (I think The Shadow and IJ colorizations are stellar and stand above some of the other colorizations).

IJ is probably the best there is. There is just SO much going on with the dots and the colors are spot on. Some of the games which were colorized early on could use an update IMO. TZ is also very very good.

Makes sense that newer panels look better than old - the backlights would be brighter and newer / more efficient display tech means better images. I tend to use Scan mode, which is sort of a nice mix between Hires which can look cartoony, and tile or DotXl with the every-other line being brighter than the next.

All of my games have improved with the LED. Even the T2 which doesn't have a ton of DMD graphics. However, all of these games are early 90s Williams/Bally pins, so they integrate well into the pin. The LCD may work better on other types of pins also.

Of all the color DMD I have seen, TWD is my favorite. I like the brightness and fit of LED, but some have pointed out the large gaps between dots is odd.

I hate to say it, but there is a very noticeable difference between the quality of parts made today, and what was made back when WMS was in business.

When I had the playfield restored, and while reassembling everything, I noticed that the trough eject kicker was worn. It still worked, sure, but was very sloppy. It was original - so, it had just about 25 years of use on it. So, i ordered a new one and used it in installation.

2 years later, I notice while playing that the kicker is starting to bind. Huh. Start taking the kicker apart - coil looks good, sleeve good. Take the kicker arm off the playfield - it's binding. It's sticking and sloppy on the arm. It's pretty much toast. So, I have to get ANOTHER kicker arm to replace ont that only lasted two years. Fack me.

I bought some new style Blinky LEDs from coin taker. They're pricey like 5 bucks each. I think the game uses 7. However I think I only used 5 in mine.

Yeah... I’m not a fan of bulk replacing for this very reason. Plus most do it simply for clean looks verse actually failing/wear.

If it’s lasted 25 years... it’s doing something right

Yep. If it ain't completely broke, don't fix it. And if it is broke, try to fix before replacing. If you ever find parts that have been welded, they are even better than original!

Luckily, I didn't do this with *everything*, just what I thought was overly worn.

Yeah, sometimes you just gotta replace. I've done the same and had to repeatedly but the same crappy part.

In some cases, there are superior versions of the parts available - the slot machine scoop from Mantis, for example. But overall .. yeah.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-tz-mods-gently-used

Thought i'd drop this here in case you miss it in the forum.

TZ club ? Wanted to buy switch kit for upper playfield who has this kit in stock

Great Lakes Modular: TZ MPS kit
http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/

Is he back? Been trying to contact for a year now.

I emailed 5 times WTF
Any other resources???

See post above. He’s a one-man shop and has other things diverting his attention right now. You can find the same
Parts elsewhere (digikey, Amazon, etc), but not necessarily assembler. Depends on what you’re ordering. That’s why GLM is so great. Hope he’s able to come back up for air soon.

Don't care how good you are - you won't find those custom metal parts for the switch kit at Digikey or Mouser.

Yeah I've emailed several times for that kit as well. no response. I hope he does come back, but if not, those metal brackets can be fabricated rather easily (cost depending on how many are run of course).

Years ago, around the time Tony developed the TZ mini-playfield switch kit, I went a slightly different route on my TZ. I got some longer screws for the micro-switches and piggy-backed a second switch on each one (pictured below). Each extra switch is wired to a star post flasher. Thus, when the ball is bouncing around up there, the corresponding star post flashers respond. I described it to Tony at PAGG one year (I got the star post flashers from him). Looks like he eventually accommodated the idea in his design, as his latest revision includes a second micro-switch on each bracket. Pretty cool.
TZ SP Switches.jpg

Lol, fine FINE!

F*CK ME.

While cleaning up, waiting for my eject kicker to arrive, I noticed something laying in the bottom of the cabinet..

It was half of the metal plate used in a pop bumper.

What the heck..

Look up, and sure enough..

One of the new rings had its threads completely broken off. Lord knows where the lock nut and threads are; I can't find it anywhere.

IMG_20180626_204011 (resized).jpg

At least you found $10 under there too! Haha!

I bought pin gizmos 3rd magnet kit but apparently there was an update to it fixing a bug with the wiring.
Does anyone know what the problem was? Apparently it had something to do with swapping 2 wires around....

I installed the Pinbits 3rd magnet kit in 2009. Not familiar with the Pin Gizmos kit. I don't know if this helps, but the installation instructions for the Pinbits kit reside here:http://iobium.com/third_magnet_project.htm

I willl take a look at the wiring maybe they are similar. It may help. Thanks

I purchased a replacement board for the clock. Any tips regarding installation?
Thanks for any advice/pointers

It’s easier if you start with the clock at 12 even. If it’s already out of alignment or you loose track of your position there are alignment marks you can use. They are faint but there. Details are in the manual.

I recently found the Robby robot mod that came with my TZ but I have zero clue how to hook it up and feel like it needs to be redone. If anybody can help me or is able to rewire it I would definitely pay and send it out to them.

20180708_192816 (resized).jpg

20180708_192912 (resized).jpg

Selling a Great Lakes Modular Twilight Zone Mini-Playfield Switch Kit if anyone is interested.

ebay.com link: itm

No disrespect, if it was set to a fair "buy it now" price I would grab it. But assuming this is going to bid up due to the lack of availability from GLM itself just kinda loses my interest. However, I get it, supply and demand. GLWS.

Same... I’m sure GLM will be back eventually... although I’m sure had I paid the inflated price they would immediately become available for regular price again knowing my luck lol.

I want one also, but I can do without. Its not like it changes gameplay at all.

None taken. The buy it now price is for some one who really wanted it and is willing to pay that price. The auction is the fairest way to do it considering the lack of availability right now. I started bidding at GLM price and the buy it now price is out of the picture. I'm not trying to gouge anyone here, I'd be happy with GLM's price.

Hey, I have a question: what’s the best way to remove the original decal from the clock face?

I have a replacement decal I’d bought a while ago, and just replaced the clock board with Ingo’s board and during that process, I noticed that the original decal had seen better days.

Freeze spray? Scraping it off with a plastic blade? Or just peeling it off and Goo-Gone’ing the glue that’s left over.. ? I was gonna just give it a go with the third option but thought I’d check in here first just to see.

If not, I'm sure between all of us we can come up with something similar. I have some ideas that would basically do the same thing with a little bit of a different spin on it.

But yeah, like others. I email them maybe once a year to ask about it and never get a response. haha.

Perhaps just order a replacement lens? Pinball Life has them for $3.50.

That's the front lens that seals the clock up, rather than the face where the decal is placed. The face that the decal is on has a notch on each side for the optos and four standoffs/spacers, one on each corner. I honestly haven't seen anyone really offering the face for sale for a while.

My bad. Surely someone has a replacement.

Oh I’m sure I could hunt one down somehow if need be, but mine looks fine aside from just the decal itself..

I was just curious about others’ experience with the best way to remove the existing decal/glue from the part while minimizing any potential damage to the clear plastic itself, and then just redecaling.

I use wildcat adhesive removal which I could swear is nothing more than mineral oil. Follow up with novus.