Does anyone have experience with Revolutionary Pinball from Edmond?

I find that TZ is very sensitive to proper leveling and will play pretty different with different slopes. Also rubber type/condition can make a big difference, especially around the pops.

In mine at least I can tell whenever the level is off: pops start emptying consistently into the outlane, rocket bounces out and the upper playfield diverter starts throwing the ball.

When level and fresh I find it to be challenging but fair.

What is the recommended slope for TZ? I know the standard is 6.5 degrees or the bubble touching the 2nd bottom line. I set mine up that way but had to extend the rear casters all the way out and the front all the way down. Hard to imagine it was designed to be setup like that. None of my other pins are like that and can be setup to pretty steep angles.

Double check that your legs are installed correctly. TZ has 3 sets of holes instead of the usual 2. You may need to install your rear legs lower down on the cabinet so the back is higher up without having to extend the levelers so much

What he said ^^

If you're having to extend the legs that far, you've definitely got two or more of them installed in the wrong holes. You shouldn't have to extend them that far to get to and beyond 6.5 degrees.

anybody have a line on cheaper gumballs, seems kind of high for some marbles....

http://pinballpro.net/shop/2174/

I am putting my TZ back together after decals and PF swap and got stumped by the three holes for the legs (not remembering how it was originally). If you use the top two holes you screw up the decals so you can't use the lower two holes in the future to raise it up. I went to HEP's site and looked at his pictures and it looks like he has was using the two top holes in the back (so the game sits a little lower).

If I measure against my other B/W games, the bottom hole (on TZ) is 3/4 inch below the rest of my games bottom hole. I am figuring to use the bottom holes so as not to screw the decals. If you use the top holes your game will sit about 1 1/4 inches below other games (obviously requiring you to crank the feet out).

I guess the question is - can you achieve a good PF slope using the top holes or will you run out of feet lift trying?

You can still level with those holes but the game looks odd in a line up as if it’s somehow for short people. Nice location! Lol

Mine is upper holes in front, and lower in back to get 6.5deg with the back feet raised like all my other pins. Compared to my other pins, that's normally where the legs attach to the cabinet, but TZ is the only pin with extra holes that I have.

I used these:

https://www.amazon.com/Pressman-2053-12-Chinese-Checkers/dp/B000NN8DLW

You could find them just about anywhere for well under $10. I got mine at a teacher supply store for four bucks and some change. They're plastic and slightly duller than glass marbles, but so are real life gumballs. Some of them can have seams, but you won't end up using all of them anyway. I took out the black ones since I've never seen black gumballs, and placed one of each color in at a time so they were as even as possible.

I definitely have all 4 legs in lower two holes. That's where the legs have always been mounted looking at the wear. I cannot even put them in the top holes if I wanted to unless I flip the backing plate.

I put chrome balls the size of marbles in my gum ball machine, they look cool reflecting all of the lighting

Pics please!

Well... I seem to remember black gumballs in "Ford" gumball machines a very long time back. Licorice flavor I think, but I guess I'm just ancient. Or my memory is playing me up again. Did not much care for that flavor anyway.

Holy crap, I hated the black ones.

I did this as well, but snuck in a white one on each side so it looks like the gumball machine on the backglass.

Good idea, I thought about doing that, but I didn’t want to take away from the effect of the Powerball

Hello,

The actuator rod to the divertor gate broke - appears to have sheared off at the bend. I managed to get a replacement rod installed and everything back together but I cant figure out how the rod connects to the divertor gate? Could anyone give me an idea or please post a photo of yours?
Thank you

If noone does it before I get home, I'll grab a pic for you.

Check to see if you have the proper coil kicking back that ball...

Thanks
I installed everything back and now have the actuator rod sitting next to diverter gate and just not sure how it connects. Only had mine for a week before the rod broke and didn't see how it linked up prior. I've gone through the manual and they have diagrams of the assembly for the coil/plunger/rod but cant find instruction on how rod links to the gate.

Also this is a great forum. New to this. Found some posts on how to get out roll pin, etc and this is my first pinball repair. Frustrating to be stuck on the last step...

Does the divertor ramp gate need to be removed and then the hole on side threaded over the bend on the actuator arm? If so do I just pop off the clip on one side and slide it out?

Thanks for any input

Is this the actuator you’re looking for? Yes I believe it would need to be removed to attach.

7913A27B-92DC-4010-9712-54A29DC85971 (resized).jpeg

Thanks,
I popped off one of the e clips, took off gate and then got it all together like the photo.

Everything working again. Now just need to fiddle with the Geneva switch again - keeps alerting in test but gameplay seems unaffected by that in terms of gumball machine.

Thanks again

Just got home, glad to see someone posted.

However.. Uhm.. what in the flyin' fack are you using at the diverter's pin?

LMAO... it was hacked on there before me and the stupid thing is practically welded so will have to cut it off. Also need to find someone who has the pin in stock. Functional but yeah its the ugly my game still has left from its route days.

Whew, okay. You get a pass for now. Especially if it works!

Umm, don't go awarding the pass just yet. My game had a bolt in there, too, and it was unreliable at best as it was too small for the holes, but I took it out when I was going through the game just after I bought it. I couldn't find the pin and clip anywhere at the time so I found a long, flat-headed solid rivet, scored a ring around the end and put a push on nylon nut on it. Been working perfectly for over 5 years now!

Hello.
Should the game notice the ceramic ball in the ball tru?
It register the cersmic ball from the gumball machine and i think even from the eject hole.
Is there more places it should register?

I believe there are 3 eddy sensors... one at the gumball, one at the trough/shooter lane and one at the slot scoop.

Two sensors: trough and the main subway channel. Other than that the game relies on memory... ie I know I had a powerball in play but the player locked a ball therefore the powerball is in the lock currently.

Yup. The game 'remembers' the position of the powerball in the Lock, and Gumball.
The lock, when it's number is up, it will automatically go into Powerball mode.
The gumball, if the count is up, yet the slot prox is registered (i.e. A metal ball), the next time a gumball is dispensed, you will get Powerball mode - if it's a steel ball, you'll go into 'fake' powerball mode. Real powerball, real powerball mode.

At the end of any multiball where the powerball was in play, if the powerball is NOT REGISTERED in trough #1 position (trough prox), then the game will go into a 'wait' mode - Powerfield and Gumball will be deactivated if you had either lit, and any shot around the spiral will try to 'capture' the ball. If a magnet is unable to capture the ball, the game will go into powerball mode. If the ball is captured, the game will go into 'normal' mode. The same will happen if a shot is made to the Camera, Dead End or Piano shot.

Actually that would makes sense, as the gumball one doesn’t usually announce until we’ll after it ejects the ball.

Yup... the ball exits into the subway where it doesn’t sense steel and POWERBALL!! That spot is also able to sense the piano and camera shots.

Didn’t realize the game also used a magnet trick to detect a powerball in play, thats cool!

I feel like I'm going mad... or maybe I'm in the Twilight Zone..

Played 2 games earlier, when I hit the lock without it being lit it said "9 more Robots for Ex. Ball and Camera" instead of just "9 more Robots for Camera".

I don't remember ever seeing that before. I haven't changed any of the game rules from factory.

The game adjusted the number of Robots before the Extra Ball was awarded. If you always saw '9 more Robots for Camera', then the first Extra Ball was over 10 Robots. If you don't get enough extra balls in the game to meet the adjustment A 2.2, the game will adjust the robots needed to meet the desired percentage. You weren't getting enough EB's, and the game adjusted. Now, 10 Robots will give you the Camera and Extra Ball. If your percentage still doesn't raise up high enough, it'll drop again after a certain amount of games.

Dumb question, you mean adjustments that stick and apply to subsequent, completely separate games? The machine had been switched off between games, and it's still doing it.

To clarify, I've always previously seen "9 more Robots for Camera", and only ever got Extra Ball via the lock if I'd lit that door panel. Now, it seems a lock shot gives "X more Robots for Ex. Ball and Camera".

The percentage, and adjustments in the menu system are game-wide. i.e. They do not reset when the game is turned off. So for percentages, like "Match %", and "Extra Ball %", this is the value that should be met over a long period - not within a single game. (The adjustment period is about 90 balls. Every 90 balls, values will be adjusted to try and meet the desired percentages and values desired.)

Thanks. I guess what this means is that I suck. Lol.

I've got GLM's switches installed on my mini-PF, therefore those original fully working ones are available if anyone needs them...

IMG_20180415_081819 (resized).jpg

Not possible, dude... Tho a red display mask looks incredible if you want your DMD, well... red!

Then you will have to invent something because what you're asking for does not exist,
Sorry!

Coyote still TZ's living bible! Can someone please do a search for all Coyote 's posts here and organize them in a book? It would surely be more complete than TZ's original manual!

As much as I appreciate it, some of this is actually WPC OS specific, not game-specific. (I.e. The 'Extra Ball %' and 'Match %' settings above would be the same for TAF, RS, etc. Depending on how games implement them, different things would be adjusted. For example, in RS, if the Extra Ball % is low, you would see a lot more 'Zinc Pinballs' being randomly awarded at Bob's.)

Not really, but kinda related..

My game is f%# me off big time. I am getting SO angry at it. I slam tilted it tonight.

It is LITERALLY one thing after another.

Last week, the slot switch stopped working. Open the game up, and turns out that (somehow), BOTH wires came off the slot switch. There's nothing pulling on the wires - no idea how BOTH of them would have come off. Reattach them, play a game. Works fine. Start next game, and.. stops working again. WTH. Open game up - NOW, both wires are off AGAIN. But THIS TIME, the switch terminals actually came OUT of the switch body. Seriously.

I let the game sit for a few days. Today, replace switch. Yay. Play a game, and now the trough ball eject level is sticking, causing multiball to only serve one ball. Best game of the night (only 50 million), had a great multiball lined up, but.. it's only one ball. So after the game realizes there's only one ball out, Multiball is ended.

Aargh.

While I still don't wanna SELL it, I'm starting to consider a temporary trade with another game, to give me a change of pace.

Welcome to the Twilight Zone, Coyote.

I wonder some days whether these ghosts in the machine is part of its charm.

For my part, the last few days, I've had the upper right flipper flasher stick on mid game, and warm the plastic (it's an LED flasher now, thankfully, but it still got warm). Fiddled with the ribbon cables to the aux board which fixed it but why it came on at all I'll never know.

I hear ya.. my clock lights have been out for half a year, and I have no idea why. Swapped out for a different board, tested all connections. Next is replacing the pin connection on the PDB

You know what the insane thing is? My game just turned 25 years old a couple weeks ago. (Apr 8th, 1993.) Before I got the playfield restored in '16, I had *none* of these issues. The game was rock solid. Well, except for a few very bad spots on the playfield.. Mechanically, though, NOTHING broke. Never had to replace a switch. Never had to adjust the lock kickout. Never had the outhole or ball eject assemblies sticking.

Get playfield all beautified, reassemble it, and.. nothing but issues. Non-stop. From shorting of switch column, to a set of optos randomly closing, to switches falling apart and sticking assemblies.. Argh.

I think my game turns 25 tomorrow. Yikes! I better look out... looking forward to getting my PF restored soon, but... maybe I should wait!