(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 15,089 posts
  • 942 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 minutes ago by iamabearsfan
  • Topic is favorited by 498 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

Pinside_market_174448_16 (1) (resized).jpg
PXL_20240324_225901432 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240324_225930656 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240324_225912893 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240324_225925287 (resized).jpg
switch_cover_clip (resized).jpg
switch_cover (resized).jpg
IMG_5104 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5105 (resized).jpeg
twilight-zone-escape-clause-youre-the-devil-1_resize.gif
IMG_5096 (resized).jpeg
20240227_093351 (resized).jpg
Eddy board (resized).png
Screenshot 2024-03-02 at 8.44.39 AM (resized).png
Screenshot 2024-03-01 at 5.00.06 PM (resized).png
IMG_9941 (resized).JPG

Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 15,089 posts in this topic. You are on page 111 of 302.
#5501 6 years ago

Huh. I will need to check mine, but I stole the CDMD from it for Creature right now. I feel like mine stays in color tho.

#5502 6 years ago

Are the two proximity sensors linked together? Both of mine stopped working at the same time. I checked fuses, examined the wiring, fiddled with the connectors, and now they seem to be working again. Researching proximity errors it seems like the connectors are a big problem. Would one connector affect both sensors?

#5503 6 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Are the two proximity sensors linked together? Both of mine stopped working at the same time. I checked fuses, examined the wiring, fiddled with the connectors, and now they seem to be working again. Researching proximity errors it seems like the connectors are a big problem. Would one connector affect both sensors?

It's possible that you lost the +12v. While the boards are on different row/column switches, they ARE powered by +12v and GND. A break in either *could* affect the other. (I'm not sure the route of the +12v or GND wires between the two boards.)

#5504 6 years ago

Those sensor circuit boards use low-rent trimpots which are way too sensitive. A slight movement and they're out of adjustment and the sensor won't trigger. Best thing to do (outside of replacing the circuits with the costly and hard to get auto-adjust boards) is to replace the single-turn trimpot with a ten-turn trimpot. Problem solved.

#5505 6 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Those sensor circuit boards use low-rent trimpots which are way too sensitive. A slight movement and they're out of adjustment and the sensor won't trigger. Best thing to do (outside of replacing the circuits with the costly and hard to get auto-adjust boards) is to replace the single-turn trimpot with a ten-turn trimpot. Problem solved.

Uh..
TZ's (from-factory) prox sensors don't have trim-pots.

#5506 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

It's possible that you lost the +12v. While the boards are on different row/column switches, they ARE powered by +12v and GND. A break in either *could* affect the other. (I'm not sure the route of the +12v or GND wires between the two boards.)

Good to know. Don't know too much when it comes to these things. Next time it happens I will know what to focus on. Thought maybe I did something when I repaired a broken wire to a target last night.

#5507 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Uh..
TZ's (from-factory) prox sensors don't have trim-pots.

I guess I never paid much attention to mine. Theatre of Magic is the only machine I've had problems with on those. Thanks for the info. Now I gotta go and look...

#5508 6 years ago

For the slot machine prox sensor, there isn't much that can go wrong there. If it stops working, either it lost power, lost a switch wire, or something on the board is blown.

The trough sensor's biggest issue is the wires/cable connecting the two boards. The IDC connections don't offer a strong connection, and the wires aren't twisted. Both of these can adjust the reported inductance, and cause the board to report erroneously. For this board, it is usually recommend to remove the connectors, and hard-soldered to the two boards, twisting the two wires between the boards.

#5509 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

For this board, it is usually recommend to remove the connectors, and hard-soldered to the two boards, twisting the two wires between the boards.

Yep; based on your recommendation, I've done this exact procedure, and I haven't had a problem with mine since.

#5510 6 years ago

Anyone help with PinSound? I have a nice TZ that has pinsound and original gamesound on thumb. Plays great. Wanted to try the Chris Granner sound file. After a few hiccups loading it to my thumb drive I felt like I had it....Pinsound started playing piano music saying conversion started. It counted from 10 percent up to 100%. Took about 25 min...When it said complete thought for sure I got it...But still no sound. Tried reboot and no sound. So I put old thumb drive back in...Not sure what did wrong? If anyone has it loaded on a USB I would glad pay to cover costs.

Thx

#5511 6 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Anyone help with PinSound? I have a nice TZ that has pinsound and original gamesound on thumb. Plays great. Wanted to try the Chris Granner sound file. After a few hiccups loading it to my thumb drive I felt like I had it....Pinsound started playing piano music saying conversion started. It counted from 10 percent up to 100%. Took about 25 min...When it said complete thought for sure I got it...But still no sound. Tried reboot and no sound. So I put old thumb drive back in...Not sure what did wrong? If anyone has it loaded on a USB I would glad pay to cover costs.
Thx

Make sure your volume is turned up on the game enough - the PinSound “converting...” and music are MUCH louder than the USB sounds, you may have to just turn the game volume up

#5512 6 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Make sure your volume is turned up on the game enough - the PinSound “converting...” and music are MUCH louder than the USB sounds, you may have to just turn the game volume up

Thx. I’ll have to check that

#5513 6 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Thx. I’ll have to check that

Nope. Nothing. Frustrating cause it did the 20 min conversion. At least putting other flash drive back in works.

#5514 6 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Nope. Nothing. Frustrating cause it did the 20 min conversion. At least putting other flash drive back in works.

That’s really strange. Maybe it’s hsving trouble reading your other thumb drive? I’ve heard of others who had Trouble with specific brands. Plus since it did the conversion, it means it detected the correct files

#5515 6 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

That’s really strange. Maybe it’s hsving trouble reading your other thumb drive? I’vew heard of others who had Trouble with specific brands. Plus since it did the conversion, it means it detected the correct files

That’s my only thought. It’s about 6 years old but I reformatted it. Maybe i should try a new San disk

#5516 6 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

That’s my only thought. It’s about 6 years old but I reformatted it. Maybe i should try a new San disk

Definitely. Didn’t the PinSound come with one? I’ve bought 5 of them, each had included a USV drive

#5517 6 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Definitely. Didn’t the PinSound come with one? I’ve bought 5 of them, each had included a USV drive

It has one but it has the original code on it....did not think I could have 2 on the same usB? DOnt want to erase the working one either

#5518 6 years ago
Quoted from JWJr:

Your first_ video is not the way mine works; the color on mine stays, as you'd think it should.
Your second_ video is exactly the way mine works. I never considered that a problem, because it is_ colored, in grey and white, like several other effects (the "GAME OVER", for example).

What ROM version are you running?

#5519 6 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

It has one but it has the original code on it....did not think I could have 2 on the same usB? DOnt want to erase the working one either

BTW Mike you can have several on one USB. I have 4 or 5 TZ mixes on my drive. You need to make sure there is a folder for each mix (named whatever you want; the game doesn't care), and put all of them into the "Audio" folder on the usb drive. So you can copy both of your thumb drives to a laptop, then copy both into the "Audio" folder on a single thumb drive

#5520 6 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

BTW Mike you can have several on one USB. I have 4 or 5 TZ mixes on my drive. You need to make sure there is a folder for each mix (named whatever you want; the game doesn't care), and put all of them into the "Audio" folder on the usb drive. So you can copy both of your thumb drives to a laptop, then copy both into the "Audio" folder on a single thumb drive

Thx. Got Chris granner playing. Love the stereo sound. I can see in an arcade this would not matter. At home its like your watching a movie in stereo.

#5521 6 years ago

Now that pinsound up and running. Anyone recommend which pair of speakers to put in the bavkbox hoping hoping for exact fit. Thx

12
#5522 6 years ago

I am in the club!!!!

2477F7BE-E658-48D7-96ED-C1743FC7F547 (resized).jpeg2477F7BE-E658-48D7-96ED-C1743FC7F547 (resized).jpeg

#5523 6 years ago
Quoted from JWJr:

Your first_ video is not the way mine works; the color on mine stays, as you'd think it should.
Your second_ video is exactly the way mine works. I never considered that a problem, because it is_ colored, in grey and white, like several other effects (the "GAME OVER", for example).

Update after following the suggestion of Randy from ColorDMD to set Euro Scoring format to OFF (factory settings on 9.4H is ON).

Skill Shot Award works fine now, but Jet Bumpers Added is still the same... I wonder if that animation is supposed to be like this in its original form I'd say that would be of more logic to present it with yellow all the time.

I also noticed a few other things:

1) Some animation colors have also changed... no biggie, but I wonder if that's a common thing (euro scr on/off), within other games as well

2) The Town Square animations are all grey and white... Now I don't remember seeing them with the other settings (euro scr on), and again, I don't know if they're supposed to be all colored or plain g/w

#5524 6 years ago

I'm installing the ingo clock board. I have the instructions and looks straight forward. I am also swapping out the clock housing. How much more involved is that. The gears sin the back scare me...Anyone have any install details. Hoping I just replace the old housing with the new when changing the clock board.

#5525 6 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

I'm installing the ingo clock board. I have the instructions and looks straight forward. I am also swapping out the clock housing. How much more involved is that. The gears sin the back scare me...Anyone have any install details. Hoping I just replace the old housing with the new when changing the clock board.

It’s not difficult at all, can’t remember the details when I did it, but clock has to come out to replace the board anyway. I think I got to a point where the entire process takes like 5 mins. Main thing to watch is don’t lose the e- clip that holds the hands on and make sure the hands are at 12 when you reinstall. The gears are a non-issue, clean them and add just a little lube.

#5526 6 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

It’s not difficult at all, can’t remember the details when I did it, but clock has to come out to replace the board anyway. I think I got to a point where the entire process takes like 5 mins. Main thing to watch is don’t lose the e- clip that holds the hands on and make sure the hands are at 12 when you reinstall. The gears are a non-issue, clean them and add just a little lube.

Totally agree with Lermods, I remember the install being the same way. The clip and leaving the hands at 12:00 were the only two issues, everything else was really easy with the board swap.

#5527 6 years ago

Also, keep a grip on that drive pin that links the minute hand. It's a 1 in. long, 1/16 in. diameter pin that is almost impossible to pick up once you drop it. Place a towel on your playfield, and put all the loose parts on it so they won't roll off into never-never-land.

#5528 6 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Also, keep a grip on that drive pin that links the minute hand. It's a 1 in. long, 1/16 in. diameter pin that is almost impossible to pick up once you drop it. Place a towel on your playfield, and put all the loose parts on it so they won't roll off into never-never-land.

Thx. Perfect time to install new housing and lube gears

#5529 6 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

It’s not difficult at all, can’t remember the details when I did it, but clock has to come out to replace the board anyway. I think I got to a point where the entire process takes like 5 mins. Main thing to watch is don’t lose the e- clip that holds the hands on and make sure the hands are at 12 when you reinstall. The gears are a non-issue, clean them and add just a little lube.

I agree other than adding lube. These gears were designed , like almost everything in a pinball machine, to run dry. The problem with lube is that it collects any dust/dirt floating around then edventually dries into a glue-like substance over the years.

#5530 6 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

I agree other than adding lube. These gears were designed , like almost everything in a pinball machine, to run dry. The problem with lube is that it collects any dust/dirt floating around then edventually dries into a glue-like substance over the years.

Synthetic Super Lube with PTFE does not ever dry out and does not atttract dust.

#5531 6 years ago

I add synthetic grease to the gears, mostly to reduce the gear clash noise. Nylon gears technically don't require lubricant, but the synthetic "Super Lube" doesn't harden and stays in a somewhat fluid state. Putting it on the fast-moving gears keeps the noise down, and also adding a .030 in. shim washer inside the driven shaft keeps the axial movement down to a minimum, further reducing gear train noise.

Start with a squeaky-clean gear drive and you won't see a whole lot of dirt attraction there.

#5532 6 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

I agree other than adding lube. These gears were designed , like almost everything in a pinball machine, to run dry. The problem with lube is that it collects any dust/dirt floating around then edventually dries into a glue-like substance over the years.

Dry lube, like for a bicycle chain works fine.

#5533 6 years ago

Noise is significantly reduced with a light lubing.

#5534 6 years ago
Quoted from Duvall:

Noise is significantly reduced with a light lubing.

Mine are noisy. Link to good lube?

#5535 6 years ago

Plug for Lermods. Great mods at a fair price and free shipping. His Robby with color changing is awesome. Included the cliffy. Buy with confidence

60B6E7AB-71C5-415F-90FD-0A1663542497 (resized).jpeg60B6E7AB-71C5-415F-90FD-0A1663542497 (resized).jpeg

#5537 6 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Mine are noisy. Link to good lube?

Or if you want a smaller size with a smaller applicator tip

ebay.com link: SUPER LUBE 21010 Synthetic Multi Purpose Grease

#5538 6 years ago

Any tips for exactly how to lube the clock gears? Mine is pretty noisy. When I swapped out the board a little while ago, I tried to apply a little Super Lube to the different gears but it made no difference.

#5539 6 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Any tips for exactly how to lube the clock gears? Mine is pretty noisy. When I swapped out the board a little while ago, I tried to apply a little Super Lube to the different gears but it made no difference.

I'd like to know the answer to this too, as I will be disassembling the clock soon.

I've heard people saying that you put "a bit" on the gear contact points, but how much is that? If you've done it once already and it made no difference I guess it wasn't enough?

#5540 6 years ago

If you are planning on disassembling your clock, I am looking for TWO volunteers - beta testers - who would be interested in installing and evaluating a new design clock face. Installing this would involve removing the clock hands, hardware, clock face and lens, then replacing the clock face and lens with the beta version.

This clock face assembly is an entirely new product etched onto a mirror, and does not use the conventional decals.

It would require use of your non-stock (LED) clock board with between 4 and 12 LED's lighting the clock face, so you must have already converted your clock to a new-style LED system.

First two forum members who PM me will be on board.

#5541 6 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

If you are planning on disassembling your clock, I am looking for TWO volunteers......
First two forum members who PM me will be on board.

OK, deal is gobbled up. I have the two volunteers and will be getting this thing up and running.

Thanks!

#5542 6 years ago

Regarding the clock, I'm trying to work out in advance of some parts arriving what I need to do to remove it completely from the playfield.

Is this the screw you need to undo to be able to slide the clock out of the bracket and off?

(Note: This is not my clock - it's an image found on Google)

24766-the-twilight-zone-pinball-machine-clock (resized).jpg24766-the-twilight-zone-pinball-machine-clock (resized).jpg

I have a piano mod on mine, with no instructions. Looking at how it is installed it is held down by the red/yellow lamp screws, and it obscures the hole (so I can't get to the screw marked above). I can't see a way of getting to the two lamp screws without getting the clock off, and I can't get the clock off without getting to these screws..... unless I'm missing something obvious.

How would I go above removing the whole bracket, like you see in some photos of the clock off the playfield - e.g. from Marco's website:

index (resized).jpgindex (resized).jpg

Also - does anyone have the part numbers for the red & yellow lights? The previous owner changed mine to LEDs but for some reason they are green and red (and clear bulbs).

Thanks in advance!

#5543 6 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Regarding the clock, I'm trying to work out in advance of some parts arriving what I need to do to remove it completely from the playfield.
Is this the screw you need to undo to be able to slide the clock out of the bracket and off?
(Note: This is not my clock - it's an image found on Google)

I have a piano mod on mine, with no instructions. Looking at how it is installed it is held down by the red/yellow lamp screws, and it obscures the hole (so I can't get to the screw marked above). I can't see a way of getting to the two lamp screws without getting the clock off, and I can't get the clock off without getting to these screws..... unless I'm missing something obvious.
How would I go above removing the whole bracket, like you see in some photos of the clock off the playfield - e.g. from Marco's website:

Also - does anyone have the part numbers for the red & yellow lights? The previous owner changed mine to LEDs but for some reason they are green and red (and clear bulbs).
Thanks in advance!

The bracket is held down by just one screw, and there is a small tab which goes into a second bracket underneath the clock. Your piano is most likely just held on with double-sided tape and friction from the weight of the clock housing. You will need to remove the piano to get to the clock bracket screw

#5544 6 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Also - does anyone have the part numbers for the red & yellow lights? The previous owner changed mine to LEDs but for some reason they are green and red (and clear bulbs).

The bulbs? Or the bulb sockets?

I’m almost certain the 2 sockets are: https://pinparts.co.uk/products/077-5026-01
The bulbs are simply a red and a yellow bulb - well, 2 incandescents in red and yellow bulb covers originally. I use frosted lens Comet 2SMD LEDs though (not non-ghosting, obviously! We’ve done that one to death...)

#5545 6 years ago

Clock was easy....follow directions with ingo board....I used a light spray of silicone spray at each of the gears....clock is much quieter and all back together. Biggest issue is just taking your time and not losing a couple of the small pieces. I chose the blue case an white leds.

#5546 6 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

The bracket is held down by just one screw, and there is a small tab which goes into a second bracket underneath the clock. Your piano is most likely just held on with double-sided tape and friction from the weight of the clock housing. You will need to remove the piano to get to the clock bracket screw

The piano is definitely screwed down, the two screws that secure the lamps are going through the red part of it. I'll get a photo tonight and post it on the thread.

Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

The bulbs? Or the bulb sockets?
I’m almost certain the 2 sockets are: https://pinparts.co.uk/products/077-5026-01
The bulbs are simply a red and a yellow bulb - well, 2 incandescents in red and yellow bulb covers originally. I use frosted lens Comet 2SMD LEDs though (not non-ghosting, obviously! We’ve done that one to death...)

The bulbs. I was trying to find LED bulbs with solid colour lens but was coming up short. I guess two frosted ones that are red and yellow wouldn't be too bad as a substitute. And yes, not non-ghosting of course

Quoted from billsfanmd:

Clock was easy....follow directions with ingo board....I used a light spray of silicone spray at each of the gears....clock is much quieter and all back together. Biggest issue is just taking your time and not losing a couple of the small pieces. I chose the blue case an white leds.

I've ended up buying all of the parts of the clock except the motor and shafts, to basically create a new clock. Figured I'd do this as the clock housing I bought is clear (not hazy like the original one), and my clock shows closer to 11 when it's supposed to be 12 anyway - so was planning to fiddle with the gears.

#5547 6 years ago

Here are the photos of my clock and piano mod as it is at the moment. As you can see it is screwed to the bracket underneath using the original lamp screws/screw holes. The lamps are just inserted into the holes in the piano.

CBA6F3BD-820F-4626-A1ED-A7D8A1A92EC9 (resized).jpegCBA6F3BD-820F-4626-A1ED-A7D8A1A92EC9 (resized).jpeg

226CEBDE-E3B1-4D0B-9EA5-C78AF3467BD9 (resized).jpeg226CEBDE-E3B1-4D0B-9EA5-C78AF3467BD9 (resized).jpeg

As you can see the lamp screws are inaccessible.

#5548 6 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Here are the photos of my clock and piano mod as it is at the moment. As you can see it is screwed to the bracket underneath using the original lamp screws/screw holes. The lamps are just inserted into the holes in the piano.

As you can see the lamp screws are inaccessible.

Offset screwdriver?

#5549 6 years ago

While it's not recommended - you can try removing the two bottom screws on the back of the clock - this will remove it from the bracket. (Again, it's not recommended, and difficult to get anything but a stubby screwdriver in there..)

#5550 6 years ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Offset screwdriver?

Could work, but I fear I'd never be able to get back on again. Knowing my luck I'd lose the screws down the scoop. Also, it seems like that must be harder than its supposed to be (when installing the mod).

Quoted from Coyote:

While it's not recommended - you can try removing the two bottom screws on the back of the clock - this will remove it from the bracket. (Again, it's not recommended, and difficult to get anything but a stubby screwdriver in there..)

Why not recommended out of interest?

Would these two screws ordinarily need to be undone anyway? Or is it the case that if there was no piano mod I could simply unscrew the one that the mod is obscuring, and the whole assembly would unclip?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 1.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 115.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
pinballmod
Toys/Add-ons
10,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Mount Pleasant, WI
From: $ 8.99
Cabinet - Other
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Other
$ 24.00
Various Novelties
Pinball Photos LLC
Various novelties
$ 14.95
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Pimp
Decals
$ 259.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toppers
$ 14.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
$ 399.00
Cabinet - Decals
Mircoplayfields
Decals
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Corona, CA
$ 16.00
Boards
Lermods
Boards
$ 21.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
Interactive
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
Shooter rods
$ 37.50
Cabinet - Toppers
Pinball Haus
Toppers
$ 29.95
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Pimp
Decals
$ 15.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
Other
$ 38.00
Various Novelties
Pinball Photos LLC
Various novelties
$ 329.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
Other
$ 159.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Sparky Pinball
Toys/Add-ons
10,500
Machine - For Sale
Seaside, OR
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 90.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
pinballmod
Toys/Add-ons
$ 115.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
pinballmod
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 110.00
Playfield - Other
Arcade Upkeep
Other
$ 12.50
Cabinet - Decals
Pinball Haus
Decals
$ 65.00
Boards
Pinball Haus
Boards
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
There are 15,089 posts in this topic. You are on page 111 of 302.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/111 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.