Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

4 years ago


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There are 5795 posts in topic. You are on page 103 of 117.
#5101 3 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

What's the consensus on clear (OEM) clock housing vs blue? I'm not totally sold on the blue & rainbow LEDs which most people seem to do, but at the same time the blue housing looks a lot clearer than the OEM "clear" (which is more like misted) housing. Thoughts?

I'm due to buy a Blue clock housing, to go with my Ingo clock board with cool white LEDs that's waiting to be fitted (the 2nd Ingo baord i've bought) and the GI OCD board that's sat in the box under my desk. Cool white with blue casing does look quite sharp.

EDIT: using the White clock face.

#5102 3 months ago

Yeah there isn't much consensus. White would be standard but TZ is ground zero of French whoring machines so you never know.

#5103 3 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Yeah there isn't much consensus. White would be standard but TZ is ground zero of French whoring machines so you never know.

lol that's a brilliant way of putting it.

And yes - consensus was probably the wrong word

#5104 3 months ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

I'm due to buy a Blue clock housing, to go with my Ingo clock board with cool white LEDs that's waiting to be fitted (the 2nd Ingo baord i've bought) and the GI OCD board that's sat in the box under my desk. Cool white with blue casing does look quite sharp.
EDIT: using the White clock face.

I have to get a white clock face as I have the ingo with rainbow led which creates a multicoloured version of the standard 4 coloured scheme..if that makes sense haha

I thought about the blue housing but with rainbow I think clear is prob. Best....

#5105 3 months ago

Hello. I'm BallyWilliams....(no relation and Im proud to be lost in the twilight zone !

No idea how pinside works , as joined yesterday but happy to be here. Already had someone be very patient and kind with a problem I had so that's a good start.

Hoping to help others and learn anything Twilight related while I get my machines up to scratch. Thanks for reading.

#5106 3 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

What's the consensus on clear (OEM) clock housing vs blue?

I have the blue one, it was a gift, and I like it a lot, I think it looks great. If I had to choose for myself tho I probably would have went crystal clear, not OEM clear.

#5107 3 months ago

Like everyone has said - it's all about personal preference.

I don't like the 'crystal clear' or colored, because I don't really want to clearly see all the innards to the clock. I want it to look more like a clock. So, I have an OEM cloudy case, and warm white LEDs.

#5108 3 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

What's the consensus on clear (OEM) clock housing vs blue? I'm not totally sold on the blue & rainbow LEDs which most people seem to do, but at the same time the blue housing looks a lot clearer than the OEM "clear" (which is more like misted) housing. Thoughts?

I like clear and blue. Red is so-so, green is no go for me.

blueclock1 (resized).jpg

redclock1 (resized).jpg

#5109 3 months ago

I have the ingo clock board, original housing and blue LED's, I think it fits the theme very nicely but to each their own. Everyone is going to have their own opinion/taste here.

#5110 3 months ago
Quoted from merccat:

I personally like clear with warm white LEDs. Maybe that’s boring to some but it’s the easiest to see the actual clock details when you need to and not distract the eye when you don’t.

To clarify... i forgot about the crystal clear cases... mine is is stock translucent semi-clear.... board is indigo.

LOL at TZ being ground zero!

#5111 3 months ago
Quoted from merccat:

LOL at TZ being ground zero!

It for sure was. Shit it's so old school I even have a bunch of mods on mine!

#5112 3 months ago

I got my TZ with the blue housing and color changing LEDs. It looks good but I like the factory look better.

#5113 3 months ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

I have the ingo clock board, original housing and blue LED's, I think it fits the theme very nicely but to each their own. Everyone is going to have their own opinion/taste here.

Same here, had the rainbows in it first but the color-changing is not in-sync so changed it to blue pretty dim. Looks great! (My 2 cents )

#5114 3 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

The clock is pretty easy to take apart, just don’t use a whole lot of lube, it doesn’t need much at all. And don’t expect it to be totally -silent- you will still hear a little bit of noise but it will be considerably reduced. Good luck getting the hands aligned; it’s Bally, not Swiss craftsmanship

Before you take the Clock apart make sure the hands are at 12 Oclock. This makes it much easier to deal with.

#5115 3 months ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Before you take the Clock apart make sure the hands are at 12 Oclock. This makes it much easier to deal with.

Do you mean remove it when the game "thinks" it's at 12, even when the hands are not? Won't the clock always be at 12 unless you switch the game off mid-mode?

Reason I ask is that 12 o'clock on mine is actually more like 11 o'clock. The minute hand is bang on, but the hour hand is slightly misaligned, halfway between 11 and 12. I'd like to fix that as part of an Ingo/LED overhaul.

#5116 3 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Do you mean remove it when the game "thinks" it's at 12, even when the hands are not? Won't the clock always be at 12 unless you switch the game off mid-mode?
Reason I ask is that 12 o'clock on mine is actually more like 11 o'clock. The minute hand is bang on, but the hour hand is slightly misaligned, halfway between 11 and 12. I'd like to fix that as part of an Ingo/LED overhaul.

It can also be off of 12 in attract mode when it turns into an actual clock.

As far as not being quite right your clock was probably disassembled in the past and the gears got off by a tooth or two. I made the mistake of taking it apart not at 12 the first time and it took me 3 attempts to get the hour hand dialed in after that.

The Ingo board won’t really help here since it’s basically a mechanical issue and it will get as close as it can but priority is given to the minute hand.

#5117 3 months ago
Quoted from merccat:

It can also be off of 12 in attract mode when it turns into an actual clock.
As far as not being quite right your clock was probably disassembled in the past and the gears got off by a tooth or two. I made the mistake of taking it apart not at 12 the first time and it took me 3 attempts to get the hour hand dialed in after that.
The Ingo board won’t really help here since it’s basically a mechanical issue and it will get as close as it can but priority is given to the minute hand.

Thanks.

My clock is factory at the moment, and will soon be the only thing on it that's still using incandescents. It's working at the moment but keen to give it a preemptive clean & upgrade.

#5118 3 months ago
Quoted from BallyWilliams:

Hello. I'm BallyWilliams....(no relation and Im proud to be lost in the twilight zone !
No idea how pinside works , as joined yesterday but happy to be here. Already had someone be very patient and kind with a problem I had so that's a good start.
Hoping to help others and learn anything Twilight related while I get my machines up to scratch. Thanks for reading.

Hello,

You may also find some local knowledge on Pinballinfo.com, the UK Pinball forum. Not as busy as Pinside, but equally as useful and you may discover some other Pinheads just nearby.

Cheers.

#5119 3 months ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Hello,
You may also find some local knowledge on Pinballinfo.com, the UK Pinball forum. Not as busy as Pinside, but equally as useful and you may discover some other Pinheads just nearby.
Cheers.

Thanks I will. Very kind of you to say. Be nice to have people to play with (beat! Haha

#5120 3 months ago

Where is a good place to buy a crystal clear clock housing...out of curiosity?

#5121 3 months ago
Quoted from BallyWilliams:

Where is a good place to buy a crystal clear clock housing...out of curiosity?

Would also like to know this. Not been able to find one anywhere

#5122 3 months ago
Quoted from BallyWilliams:

Thanks I will. Very kind of you to say. Be nice to have people to play with (beat! Haha

beat?
that's here: http://ukpinballleague.co.uk/schedule.php

#5123 3 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

I like clear and blue. Red is so-so, green is no go for me.

Deinitely not green

I'd say BLUE is the way to go. I really like it. My white/clear original was so dirty that I opted to buy a used "nice-condition" RED that wasn't in such nice conditions (blame it on ebay), and now I regret it a lot...

#5124 3 months ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Deinitely not green
I'd say BLUE is the way to go. I really like it. My white/clear original was so dirty that I opted to buy a used "nice-condition" RED that wasn't in such nice conditions (blame it on ebay), and now I regret it a lot...

I have purchased mine (semi-clear) from PPS long time ago. As I know that was last piece in stock.

TZ_clock (resized).JPG

#5125 3 months ago

I have a set of spare boards from PinLED in transit (except the little Eight-Driver, which is a Rottendog, since PinLED doesn't make them). Am considering running the entire TZ on the new boards (and a Pinsound) and storing the original boards (which currently work) to prevent any additional load wear. Any thoughts on this?

#5126 3 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Do you mean remove it when the game "thinks" it's at 12, even when the hands are not? Won't the clock always be at 12 unless you switch the game off mid-mode?
Reason I ask is that 12 o'clock on mine is actually more like 11 o'clock. The minute hand is bang on, but the hour hand is slightly misaligned, halfway between 11 and 12. I'd like to fix that as part of an Ingo/LED overhaul.

Yeah the hour hand is slightly to the left of 12 Oclock. That is common. Just make sure both hands are straight up with the exception of the hour hand a little off.

#5127 3 months ago
Quoted from jzdziarski:

I have a set of spare boards from PinLED in transit (except the little Eight-Driver, which is a Rottendog, since PinLED doesn't make them). Am considering running the entire TZ on the new boards (and a Pinsound) and storing the original boards (which currently work) to prevent any additional load wear. Any thoughts on this?

I run PinLed boards in mine, except for MPU and audio. (Back in '09, accidently reversed a plug on Fliptronics and Audio, sending 50v into the logic, frying *evertthing*..)

They've been running great since then, no issues playability issues.

Since they're not as common as others (Rottendog) and are logically different (they have PICs instead on discrete logic, they did have issues with other 3rd party mods -
LEDOcd is required, the PDB ghosts/flickers horribly.
Pin2DMD usage requires a special setting, to prevent the image being a line off.

Other than that, though, they've been excellent.

#5128 3 months ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Yeah the hour hand is slightly to the left of 12 Oclock. That is common. Just make sure both hands are straight up with the exception of the hour hand a little off.

Wow! Glad I'm not the only one!

#5129 3 months ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Wow! Glad I'm not the only one!

That is good to know!

#5130 3 months ago

Guys, I hate to break it to you, but if your hour hand is not straight up at 0'clock, it means it was reassembled wrong. One if the internal gears wasn't assembled correctly.

You can fix it by taking the clock apart, and following the rebuilding instructions in the manual. Pay attention to the orientation of the gears! When you don't, you get an off-center how hand.

#5131 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Guys, I hate to break it to you, but if your hour hand is not straight up at 0'clock, it means it was reassembled wrong. One if the internal gears wasn't assembled correctly.
You can fix it by taking the clock apart, and following the rebuilding instructions in the manual. Pay attention to the orientation of the gears! When you don't, you get an off-center how hand.

That's what I figured. I've seen videos of other clocks and the hour and minute hand are bang on 12. My clock at 12 looks like @davi's above.

I guess there is no way of knowing that you have assembled it back together properly without reassembling the whole thing and connecting it all back up?

Having never disassembled the clock before, can I ask a dumb question - why can't you just take the hands off and put them back on in the correct orientation? e.g. if the game thinks its 12 o'clock and it's really showing as 10:15 or something, couldn't you just switch off the game when it thinks it's 12, take both hands off and then reattach them both at 12? (I figure I'm asking a dumb question because since people talk about gear alignment obviously it's not that simple)

#5132 3 months ago

the shaft holding the clock hands is sloted. it can only be 12 or 6 "get it". one hand sit on top of the other in a groove. Not adjustable. also a small pin goes through and holds it all in place.

#5133 3 months ago

Yeah, the hour hand can be attached to the hour gear two ways, 180deg apart.
The black hour interruptor grear was put on wrong (memory serves, it was put on 180deg backwards, and the hour hand was then put on right.

You can check by going into the clock test - the HOUR should change when the minute hand is near the 30miute mark, NOT on the upper half or nesr the O'clock mark.

(I would help more, but I'm in my phone all day flying, so I don't have access to a good keyboard..)

#5134 3 months ago

Anyone selling a plastic replacement for the carboard mini playfield bottom cover? Mine is a little beat up and not looking so good.

#5135 3 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Anyone selling a plastic replacement for the carboard mini playfield bottom cover? Mine is a little beat up and not looking so good.

You can trace it and just cut with a jig saw with material from Home Depot. I started to do it, and just went back to the oem material. I didn't think the difference was worthy

#5136 3 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Anyone selling a plastic replacement for the carboard mini playfield bottom cover? Mine is a little beat up and not looking so good.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1025-professor-pinball/01176-twilight-zone-power-playfield-bottom-plastic-protector

#5137 3 months ago

I prefer something not hand cut. There are so many mods and parts available for TZ so surprised there isn't more options. I guess it's not a big deal. Just thought it would be nice to replace it when I remove the mini playfield to shop.

#5138 3 months ago

I have a laser cutter that can handle 12 x 18 inches. I'm sure I can do that part. Let me know if you need it done.

#5139 3 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I prefer something not hand cut. There are so many mods and parts available for TZ so surprised there isn't more options. I guess it's not a big deal. Just thought it would be nice to replace it when I remove the mini playfield to shop.

To be fair, it is almost completely out of sight when the mini playfield is installed in the machine. You'd only see one leading edge of it.

I believe the main reason people get the transparent cover is because it lets the light from the inserts and flasher illuminate beneath.. and the cardboard looks cheap as hell!

#5140 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yeah, the hour hand can be attached to the hour gear two ways, 180deg apart.
The black hour interruptor grear was put on wrong (memory serves, it was put on 180deg backwards, and the hour hand was then put on right.
You can check by going into the clock test - the HOUR should change when the minute hand is near the 30miute mark, NOT on the upper half or nesr the O'clock mark.
(I would help more, but I'm in my phone all day flying, so I don't have access to a good keyboard..)

Here's how mine stays...

IMG_20180113_101534 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180113_101518 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180113_101502 (resized).jpg

#5141 3 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

To be fair, it is almost completely out of sight when the mini playfield is installed in the machine. You'd only see one leading edge of it.
I believe the main reason people get the transparent cover is because it lets the light from the inserts and flasher illuminate beneath.. and the cardboard looks cheap as hell!

@lyonsden is the man!

#5142 3 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I prefer something not hand cut. There are so many mods and parts available for TZ so surprised there isn't more options. I guess it's not a big deal. Just thought it would be nice to replace it when I remove the mini playfield to shop.

My thoughts too. I was stunned when I noticed cardboard. Any ideas why that was a choice?

#5143 3 months ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Here's how mine stays...

I see you have the bespoke inner decal.

How is that ? as I was thinking mirror blades but I was really impressed by that art work...though it's very expensive ($80/£60).

#5144 3 months ago
Quoted from BallyWilliams:

My thoughts too. I was stunned when I noticed cardboard. Any ideas why that was a choice?

It’s fishpaper:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fishpaper

#5145 3 months ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

Question for anyone who has switched to LEDs: which type of white did you use in the backbox, cool or warm? I'm working on mine right now but my translite is quite brown (maybe from cigarette smoke?) and it's making it hard for me to judge.

Comet warm white frosted look great in it and all around. That’s what I used and it does extremely well lighting it up and bringing out the original artwork colors.

#5146 3 months ago
Quoted from BallyWilliams:

I see you have the bespoke inner decal.
How is that ? as I was thinking mirror blades but I was really impressed by that art work...though it's very expensive ($80/£60).

I find it gorgeous!

#5147 3 months ago
Quoted from PinRob:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1025-professor-pinball/01176-twilight-zone-power-playfield-bottom-plastic-protector

Quoted from jawjaw:

I prefer something not hand cut. There are so many mods and parts available for TZ so surprised there isn't more options. I guess it's not a big deal. Just thought it would be nice to replace it when I remove the mini playfield to shop.

Quoted from AlexSMendes:

lyonsden is the man!

Hey all. These are very easy to make yourself. I just make them because I have the plastic, a template, the right sized hole punch, and a straight edge. I looked into getting them laser cut and it just didn't make sense in terms of what I'd have to charge (and I don't own a laser cutter). Personally, I recommend making your own, but I am happy to make them for people who don't want to make the trip to the hardware store and purchase/find everything needed.

#5148 3 months ago

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to brighten the area of the ball lock behind the clock and to the right of the right ramp?
I have put LEDs in my TZ but this area seems to stay very dark.
Thanks
Litz

#5149 3 months ago
Quoted from BallyWilliams:

My thoughts too. I was stunned when I noticed cardboard. Any ideas why that was a choice?

It's purely for electrical insulation for the elements mounted on the bottom of the mini pf

#5150 3 months ago
Quoted from Duvall:

No disrespect, just found this a bit funny (First World Problem) ...
"I live so close to the beach in a wonderful tropical climate and my 10 pinballs are next to my swimming pool so it is causing a couple of my pinballs to corrode..."

So... today I intended to tackle that issue (I'm planning on putting a film protector on the ball-trough), and when I lifted my TAF PF up, I realized that I ain't got the skills (and the guts) to disassemble/reassemble all the mechs.... I'll have to call my tech support....

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