Page 2-50 and page 2-51 in the manual shows locations by number.

Study the names a little. Left outlane - where ball drains off the playfield far left.

mid. r. 5 mil. 1 - middle target of 5 millions ones.

Probably a problem on your CPU though, and what caused it. Pinwiki has help to check that.

LTG : )

If J207 is for row 6, unplug it from cpu. If ground short remains the problem is on your cpu.

You work on the game recently with it turned on ?

LTG : )

No, they're all on the playfield. If you go into switch test remove the switch connectors on the mpu board, J208/J206 (they might be plugged into something else there, there are parallel connectors, so sometimes 208 goes into 209, and 206 is in 207.

If you unplug the 2 connectors (mark first so you can put them back where they came out) and you still have the ground short, problem is on your mpu board.

Betting chip U20 on the MPU

Yep, me too. Don't want the OP to get ahead of himself though.

For the OP if you do still have the ground short.... don't make the MPU board your first foray into soldering. Likely you will destroy it.
New board is between $150-200 (do not buy the pinball basement version, that company has issues you can research here on pinside.... I've never heard of a company being banned from pinside until this one was)
There are also lots of people that can repair it.

Totally fair. U20 may be a socketed chip. If so, a flat head screw driver to gently pry it out and a new chip inserted may br all he needs. If not socketed, definitely send to Rob Anthony, Chris Hibler, or CoinOp Cauldron for proper repair.

Not from the factory on a TZ MPU.

Yes.

CPU - Yes.

Yes. But if what ever caused this, you'll damage a new board. Were you doing anything to the game when this started ?

If your CPU is in good shape, have ChrisHibler fix it. Otherwise get the board's part number from the manual, enter pinball then part number into Google, see what turns up.

LTG : )

Bingo. A good chance you shorted high power to the switch matrix.

Check with DumbAss to see if he made a CPU for TZ.

LTG : )

https://www.pinballlife.com/rottendog-williamsbally-wpc-mpu.html This will work. Though I'd get yours fixed if clean and in good shape.

LTG : )

Oh, I so much hate Rottendog driver boards, power supplies and MPU boards. Always a hard time finding some parts for some of the boards when they fail.

I second that! getting the board repaired.

That is fine as long as the power is off.

OP: I have WPC-89 CPU boards available. I build complete boards on demand (typically in batches) and I am taking time off in December and half of January. It is extremely unlikely I will have a board ready before I leave. As it stands, I am going to struggle to finish my promised boards.

If you want a board more immediately I would recommend a board from barakandl (AndrewS).

https://nvram.weebly.com/wms-wpc89-mpu.html

He's a good guy. Makes a great product at a great price. Provides great support. You can't go wrong with him. The board is surface mount though so you should be aware of this if you care about SMT vs THT.

However, repair is almost always cheaper than replace.

The absolutely safest thing to do is to check that the LEDs on the power board are all off. There OEM power board has a "bleed" resistor for the 50V capacitor (that capacitor isn't large so it discharges fairly quickly) but the 20V capacitor is large and discharges through an LED.

Normally, in the past, you had to transfer parts over from the old board. Post a picture of it please.

Was wanting to see an actual picture of the board, not a stock photo. Did you transfer the 3 parts over that are missing from the IC sockets?

Yeah if you just plugged it in, you still need to transfer TZ Roms. Without those, the CPU has no idea what game it is for

You will need to transfer U6 at LEAST, the others around it as well, depending on what the Rottendog board doesn't have.

I am assuming the stock photo in post 22 is the board you bought off ebay. Comparing the two boards. You will need to replace U6 and U4 ROM chips. Carefully, slowly, pry the chips up from the ends with a small flat screwdriver or nonsharp knife. Do a little pry on left side, then do a little pry on right side. Keep prying side to side till it lifts out. Making sure to not bend or break any of the pins.

Next make sure is to carefully, slowly place the chip into the new board in the same direction that you took it out. Gently push it into place, till it sits all the way down. Hopefully, you will not bend or break any pins off in the process. Then proceed to the second chip. Thank your lucky stars that you do not have to attempt the square ASIC chip. Put in fresh batteries and put a date on them. Change them yearly, like a fire alarm.

When all the plugs are back in place. Double check them again. Then turn game on. Good luck.

The switches are little black plastic things with a resistor soldered to them and 2 wires attached on the underside of the Playfield. On the top of the Playfield, they look like bent paperclips, that the ball rolls over. They can also be leaf switches that look like 3 metal blades attached to a small wooden block.

Something I did when I started was to go to Marcos pinball parts site ( https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/6 ) and scroll through the list of parts on all 68 pages. That will give you a better idea of names of parts and what they look like.

Did you go by the notch on the chip and the mark on the board ?

See picture example.

LTG : )

closeup-ic-polarity (resized).jpg

Top and bottom one are blown. Pull and check fuses with a meter.

LTG : )

You didn't put the ASIC chip in.

Get some help. You've done some damage to CPU and IC's.

LTG : )

2ca004f9d0679bc9615687ebd391c4ee57ff1de9 (resized).jpg

I am sorry that I assumed you bought the board with the ASIC already installed. It is like an additional 100. That is how I bought mine, because special tooling needed to pull ASIC out and install. Yes, you need a pinball mechanic. Call a pinball distributor locally. Google it. Ask them for Pinball mechanics phone number.

This is the board with ASIC already installed you should have bought.

ebay.com link: itm

s-l500 (resized).png

I'm sorry yes.

If you have the ASIC from your original board, you can use that. I'd get help to be sure things are installed right. And get a new CPU and chips.

LTG : )

What you are experiencing is very common with people who recently purchased / acquired a machine. It's called impatience. Yes. That's tough love. This is exhibited on this forum quite commonly.

Again, signs of impatience. You still have about 20 days left until Christmas. That's plenty of time to resolve your issue. I went to someone's house the other day to service his machine. He wanted it fixed before Christmas. I am trying to schedule a visit to someone's office and house to fix both of those machines. He wants them fixed before Christmas.

Potential paths forward:

1. Purchase a PLCC extractor tool and move the ASIC (yourself).
• https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-ICE
2. Purchase a new ASIC and insert it into the new board (yourself).
• https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5410-12426-01
• https://www.thepinballwizard.net/integrated-circuits-cpus-and-peripherals-logic-linear-and-voltage-regulators/asic-wpc/wpc95-asic-cpu-chip-williams/bally/
• https://actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=5410-12426-01
• https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/5410-12426-01.html
• https://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/ic-wpc-asic/
• ebay.com link: itm
3. Send both boards out to a technician who has the tool and can move the ASIC for you.
4. Purchase (another) new board with the ASIC already installed.
• There is one manufacturer and merchant that sells this but I generally don't endorse them due to their previous product creation choices.

There are probably also other or permutations of the above options. If you choose to move the ASIC yourself then take care as it is possible to damage the IC when you remove it.

I have had people send me their old boards with EPROMs and/or ASIC for transferring to a new board. I provide this service as a courtesy to people who purchase complete boards. This allows me to test the board and send it out as a truly plug-n-play board.

The option that provides the quickest solution for you is to purchase a new ASIC and install it yourself. Take care with the orientation. The PLCC has a notch that lines up to the RIGHT (as you view the board upright). One corner is different compared to the other corners and the PLCC socket should be correspondingly different.

Do NOT discard the old ASIC. There's nothing wrong with it. These ASICs are getting harder and harder to find (although I know Mr. Pinball has plenty left). The supply is NOT infinite. These used to be $25. Now they're averaging $100.

Your original board is entirely repairable.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Those fuses do not look blown to me. The only measure of if the fuse is blown is with "electron vision". That is a multimeter. Pull one end out of the fuse holder and test for continuity (resistance = 0 Ohm).

The CPU board operates on low voltage. You really can't do much damage to the board in isolation. If you apply higher voltage to the board you can damage it. Without the ASIC the processor should remain in reset.

Top one and bottom one are definitely toast. Top one burned in the middle, see the darkened windings. Bottom one contracted and burned in the middle. Pulled out of one end or the other.

LTG : )

You need a special tool for the ASIC. Pins on all sides. It is not as easy to remove as the regular ROMs

This is what I use. Pops them out nicely.

LTG : )

puller (resized).jpg

Removing an ASIC

—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

Just chiming in here to say that while your experience is quite common for pinball machine owners (they break, and especially the TZ is known to be 'temperamental' because it is a widebody) - most first time owners are eased into servicing and repair activities much more so than you are. A bulb or a switch stops working, the playfield gets a bit dirty, a rubber snaps. You unfortunately are forced to skip all these beginner challenges and go straight to having to fix board issues. While it is great that you are not too intimidated to have a go at it yourself, as you are learning (the hard way, albeit with support from all the right people here on pinside) fiddling with boards does require a structured approach based on a deeper understanding of what (not) to do. It is safe to say that if you are a human, mistakes will be made during this learning process. There will be many highs (in my case: "I just replaced a driver transistor on the power driver board and it now works again, I'm the king of the world wooooo") and sometimes immediately followed by lows (also in my case: "in the process of putting the fixed board back my idiot self may kinda sorta have accidentally shorted another board which now needs to be sent off for repairs by someone more skilled than me, d'oh"). Fortunately these machines are built like tanks, and if a part cant be repaired, it can be replaced, at the cost of a bruised ego and/or wallet. Just hang in there and take one step at a time, and do pay attention to whatever is being suggested by the folks in this thread. Some of them have really saved me in the past - the willingness and patience with which tech knowledge and advice is being shared here is the primary reason why I keep coming back